A Day of Wine Tasting in Bolgheri

Our introduction to the wines at Tenuta Le Cologne began with a discussion about the topography and climate of the Bolgheri region.

One of Italy’s smaller, and perhaps lesser-known, wine regions is that of Bolgheri. Bolgheri is a town which has given its name both to a region, which lies along the coast of Tuscany south of Livorno, and to the wines produced there. 

Unlike some of the more well-known wines of Italy, commercial wine production is relatively recent in this area, taking off only in the 1970’s. But its roots go back further to when the first French style grapes were planted in the 1940’s. Production then was small, starting with a single vineyard, and just for family use. 

I like to imagine sitting with the Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, sipping wine from his small vineyard, and seeing that “ah ha” moment on his face as he realized what a special wine he had.  That wine was called Sassicaia and today it is the most famous (and most expensive) of the Bolgheri wines.  

Someday I hope to taste this very special Bolgheri wine.

 The unique quality of Bolgheri wines comes from several factors.  First is the French varietal grapes – Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot, sometimes blended with Syrah or Petit Verdot.  Second is the land and microclimate in which the grapes are grown.   Bolgheri vineyards closest to the coast are influenced by the sandy soil and sea breezes.  Moving inland and higher up the hills, the higher elevations have a more gravel type soil.  Each setting influences the flavors of the wines produced.  The third factor is the bowl (our guide called it an amphitheater) of hills which surround the area, giving a big hug to the vineyards.

The hills surrounding the Bolgheri vineyards help to create the climate, and the flavors, of the wines

 I am far from a wine expert; I learned all of this information on a day of wine tasting at two Bolgheri wine cellars. The trip was arranged by a group of friends, some of whom are much more knowledgeable about wines than am I. Of course, no one wants to be the designated driver on a wine tasting day, so we were lucky to have Giovanni Palmieri, from The Tuscan Wanderer, as our driver and guide for the day. Giovanni was able to share information not only about the wines but also about the countryside and the many small towns along the way. I consider myself fortunate to have been able to join this fun group for a day of tasting in Bolgheri and, as always, Giovanni was the perfect guide.

Tenuta Le Colonne

Our first stop was at Tenuta Le Colonne, a beautiful winery in the town of Donoratico in the most southern part of the Bolgheri region. The vineyards here are very close to the sea.  At Le Colonne we began to learn about Bolgheri wines and the characteristics of the region.  After a tour of the cellars we began our tasting. 

The dining room at Le Cologne

While many wine tastings come with a bit of bread and cheese, Le Colonne puts on a more elaborate spread in their elegant dining room. The addition of a special meal paired with a variety of wines made this a particularly enjoyable wine tasting.

 We were served an abundant lunch that began with a wide variety of appetizers: interesting stuffed focaccias, torta di ceci (a crispy chickpea pancake) with several different toppings, and a salumi and cheese board. 

The presentation was beautiful. We passed the plates family-style around the table, wanting to taste each appetizer. Perhaps the most surprising was a focaccia made with chocolate and filled with finocchiona (fennel) salami and goat cheese.

Next came a course of mostly crudo (raw) dishes. Tuna, Octopus, and a Beef Tartare were all available options. Again, each was artfully presented and delicious.

Finally, a tart shell filled with a most interesting (and delicious) combination.  A basil cream topped with fresh strawberries.

Each wine was described during the tasting.

Of course, each dish was paired with a wine.   The appetizer course began with a crisp Vermentino, a lovely wine.  (Although the Bolgheri region is mainly known for their reds, they also grow Vermentino grapes). The Vermentino was followed by the Le Colonne Rosato, a very light rosé blend of Merlot and Syrah.

Then it was on to the reds.  We sampled two, their Bolgheri Rosso DOC and their Bolgheri Superiore DOC. These are Le Colonne’s superstars.  Both were wonderful with the Superiore the more complex and intense of the two, made using only select grapes. Several bottles of the Superiore made it to our van for the trip back home.

The patio at Casa di Terra

 Our next stop was a short drive away to another Bolgheri winery in the more modern setting of Fattoria Casa di Terra, a family run winery. The winery building, with its steel and cement architecture, sits in the middle of the vines. 

The lowest levels house the tanks in which the wine is aged before bottling. There are large stainless ones along with some small urn shaped cement ones and beautiful large wooden ones. 

On the ground floor are the tables set for tastings and the wine shop. Up top, a wide terrace provides a view over the vines and is used for summer season aperitivo.    

It was interesting to taste similar wines – a Vermentino, a Rosato, and several reds, including their Bolgheri Superiore – and yet find different flavors and scents as compared to the earlier winery. Here I found the Rosato really appealing. In truth, my palate is not sophisticated enough to clearly sense all the underlying flavors in wine. You’ll never hear me say “oh, there are notes of tobacco, sage, and blackberry” and yet – peach – there was a definite peach flavor to this Rosato. 

Wine tasting at Fattoria Casa di Terra

It is hard to beat the combination of a beautiful spring day, blue skies, a drive through Tuscany towards the sea, good company, laughter, excellent wines and food, and the opportunity to learn about a new wine region. Now I know exactly why I have long found the wines of the Bolgheri region to be a favorite!

Contacts: Tenuta Le Colonne Via Vecchia Aurelia 418, 57022 Donoratico LI +39 0565775246 email: enoteca@tenutalecolonne.it

Fattoria Casa di Terra Località Le Ferrugini, 162/A 57022 Bolgheri LI. +39 0565749810. email: info@fattoriacasaditerra.com

The Tuscan Wanderer. +39 3664162266. email: thetuscanwander@gmail.com.

Le Colonne

Bright Shiny Objects in a Medieval Town

Lucca never fails to surprise and delight, especially when it comes to outdoor art.

One day in May, I spotted a bright, shiny object in Piazza San Michele. Large, geometric, and standing on point, it shimmered under blue skies on a sunny day. Even better, I watched as a child first touched it and then gave it a push, which set it spinning. I am not sure who was more delighted – the child, his mother, or me. This is outdoor art of the best kind – accessible, touchable, relatable, and engaging for people of all ages.

Expansión Geométrica II 2021 Gustavo Vélez.

Over the next few days, a collection of these modern art pieces appeared throughout the historic center of Lucca. The works, entitled Geometria Senza Confine (Geometry Without Borders), are the creation of sculptor Gustavo Vélez. The exhibit is presented by Oblong Contemporary Galleries and curated by Eike Schmidt. In all, 14 pieces are on display around Lucca.

Fiore VI, a sculpture in white Carrara marble by Gustavo Vélez. Piazza Anfiteatro, Lucca

Born in Colombia, Vélez has a studio in Pietrasanta, a city known for its sculptors and proximity to the Carrara marble quarries. Many of the pieces in the exhibit are marble, with works in bronze and stainless steel also included. Below: The same piece, Fiore VI, seems alive with movement when viewed from two different angles.

 According to the description by Oblong Contemporary Galleries, Vélez’s art “merges form, space, and movement” working “in dialog with historic spaces”. That makes Lucca the perfect background for this exhibit.

Hipercúbicos V in stainless steel, Gustavo Vélez 2024

The works are impressive in their scale, texture, and forms full of angles, curves, and waves. Seeing them surrounded by Medieval buildings adds a striking dimension. I am not sure if it was intentional or a happy accident brought about by Lucca’s historic setting, but several of the pieces have open spaces which offer glimpses of ancient buildings, stone arches, balconies. Others, the stainless steel pieces, have polished  surfaces which reflect the surrounding buildings, passersby, and even a certain blog writer with camera in hand. Each one invites inspection from all angles and in different lights throughout the day. I find myself taking detours as I walk through town just to walk by my favorites or to watch the one that spins delight people as they realize that they can interact with the sculpture.

 A few of the larger pieces are mounted on bases big enough to serve as benches. The pieces take on quite a different aspect when surrounded by people sitting below them – another way in which the art is immersed in the life of the city and accessible to all. 

The sculptures can be seen throughout Lucca from now through September 21.  They are a definite can’t miss for visitors to Lucca this summer.

Cono Geométrico 2023. Gustavo Vélez

Rasiglia, An Enchanted Village in Umbria

A bit off the tourist trail in Umbria, in the hills surrounding the commune of Foligno, sits a magical place – the small hamlet of Rasiglia. This Medieval village is unique in that spring-fed streams run through town creating rushing waterways, pools, and waterfalls. The streams cascade downhill through the village, eventually joining the river Menotre at the base of the hill.

The streams in Rasiglia flow downhill from springs above the village. The largest spring is the Capovena at the top of the hill..

Because of those streams, which seem to outnumber the 50 or so permanent residents, Rasiglia is also known as Il Borgo dei Ruscelli (the Village of Streams). A visit to this village was top of my to-see list during a recent stay in Umbria. Only about a 30 min drive from my base in Bevagna, it made for a perfect day trip.

The streams flow through town, sometimes tumbling down the rocks and other times pausing to fill small basins.

Remants of the fortress that once stood at the top of Rasiglia

With origins in the 12th century, Rasiglia was once a fortified town. Now, little remains of the original fortress although remnants of a tower can be seen at the top of the village.

Most important to the town’s history, the streams that flow from the springs above the village provided the power used to run its mills and also provided the water needed for the weaving and dyeing of wool, an important industry in the region.

Today, visitors can wander through the historic town enjoying the beauty and sound of its many streams along with the pretty houses and flower filled spaces tucked in amid the flowing waters. There are also cafes and lunch spots, offering a charming spot for a mid-day pause.

Not to be missed are the historic grain mill and the weaving museum. Both give fascinating glimpses into Rasiglia’s history.

While Umbria has many beautiful, and much more famous, towns it was Rasiglia that most delighted me, transporting me for one day to a fairytale world where streams run through an ancient hamlet.

Wandering Through Parma

When I think of Parma, located in the Emilia-Romagna region and one of my favorite places to visit, many things come to mind. There is of course the food – delicate buttery slices of Prosciutto di Parma, chunks of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, and beautiful filled pastas. If you can’t eat well in Parma then, well, I hardly know what to say. 

For anyone who enjoys food tours, Parma is a great place to book an outing to see how Prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiano Reggiano, and Aceto Balsamico are made. And, if you look down when walking through town, you will spot some tiles related to Parma’s food scene set into the pavement.

 Parma has wonderful museums, theaters, an annual Verdi opera festival, a beautiful cathedral and a stunning baptistery. The architecture is lovely and colorful and the city has an energetic vibe. And, if that were not enough, it also has fabulous public spaces and parks.

I took advantage of many of those things on my recent visit, but also spent some time just wandering through the city and enjoying a variety of neighborhoods, street scenes, and green spaces.

I especially enjoyed wandering through the Borgo del Gallo, a small neighborhood within the historic center of Parma. Just off one on Parma’s main streets, stepping into the alleys of Borgo del Gallo feels like stepping into a small village. The narrow street is lined with shops, markets, and cafes. It is a lively hub of activity with a unique character.

In the center of Parma, just in front of the Pilotta Museum complex is a public space centered around a huge shallow reflecting pool. Several monuments anchor the edges of the space. It is a place where locals sit and socialize, where children play, and a good place to cool off on a warm day or rest after a visit to the fabulous museums of the Pilotta.

Palazzo Ducale, Parma

My last wander took me to Parma’s Oltretorrente neighborhood. A literal translation of the word Oltretorrente would be “beyond the torrent”. It is the old part of the city, on the west side of the river that flows through town. My destination was the Parco Ducale, the park that surrounds a Palazzo that was once the home of Parma’s Dukes.

The park is Parma’s biggest green space. Lined with trees, it is a shady place filled with families, students, walkers, bicyclists, and dogs.  At one end is the Ducal Palace (now home to Parma’s police) and at the other a small man-made island with a central fountain. 

In between are grassy areas, walking paths, a playground, and an outdoor cafe. It is a fabulous spot for being outside in nature, relaxing, and people watching. 

Each of these spots are important to Parma’s history and day-to-day life. For a visitor, they make for a nice glimpse into the life of the city and a respite from a busy day of more “touristy” activities.

Astronomical clock, Piazza Garibaldi, Parma

The Garden of Palazzo Pfanner

Garden spaces in Lucca are treasures. They are especially important for those of us who live in small apartments without outdoor space of our own. Public gardens, and private ones open to visitors, provide the opportunity to sit quietly on a bench, to enjoy the peaceful beauty of trees and flowers, or to just breath in and out, finding respite from a busy day. 

Even better if the garden sits behind a historic palazzo, surrounds a fountain spraying water high into the air, and offers views over the graceful arches of the limonaia onto Lucca’s walls above. 

The limonaia in the garden of Palazzo Pfanner

The garden of Palazzo Pfanner in Lucca is just such a spot. A private garden, it is open to visitors for a small fee. It has long been one of my favorite outdoor spaces, a perfect spot to read a book, daydream, relax, and enjoy the blooms that change from spring to summer to fall. It is also a wonderful spot to listen to a small concert or enjoy a variety of events that take place at the palazzo.

Last spring and summer the garden was closed for major renovations. It has now reopened, refreshed and ready for visitors once again.

The newly planted grass is edged with irises and rose bushes. In mid-May, the scent of roses filled the garden.

The highlight of the garden for me arrives in late May and early June when the Hydrangeas bloom. Their colors, ranging from white to pink to pale purple, all set off by bright green foliage, are stunning. They are one of the garden’s best offerings and I was happy to find that after last year’s work they remained undamaged and in place, lining walkways and walls and filling the garden with color.

Many other of the garden’s best offerings remain in their original places too – the stands of bamboo which create shady alleys and hidden corners, the towering Magnolia tree, the large terra cotta pots of lemon trees, the classic statues, and the old walls that surround the garden.

One nice change is the addition of QR codes to the plant identification markers. Click on the code for a link to information about the roses, hydrangeas, camellias, and magnolias.

Only one change left me a little sad. The run down, unrestored small brick barn area that once stored beer barrels (back when the palazzo was a beer garden) has been restored. The old brick walls have been plastered over and the area now houses a new bathroom and storage. I miss the look and history of the old rustic barn (old, left, and new on the right below). But that’s a small hiccup in this otherwise spectacular garden.

What a joy it was to once again sit in this garden! (I can’t resist a few more hydrangea photos)