Two Parts Italy

Too often, the word I need in Italian escapes me. But today I have exactly the right word to describe my visit to the Cinque Terre - mozzafiato. That first view, of colorful houses tumbling down hillsides toward the rocky coast and the blue, blue sea beyond is nothing short of mozzafiato, breathtaking.

I had just a single day to visit this unique part of Italy. The Cinque Terre lies along the eastern edge of the Ligurian coast where the sea begins to curve along the top of the Italian penisula toward the French Riviera. A century or so ago these were five remote fishing villages but today they are connected by boat, train, and scenic walking paths, making them a popular tourist destination. I was lucky to be there on a sunny spring day just before the season when the biggest crowds arrive. One day is not enough to thoroughly explore each of the towns that make up the Cinque Terre but it was definitely enough to give me a flavor for the area and convince me that I need to return!

I arrived in Manarola on a Saturday morning in early April with a full day free to explore. I chose to spend some time in Manarola, go by boat to Vernazza, and then return to Manarola for further exploration and to meet up with my group (from Lucca Italian School) for the return trip to our home base of Lucca. The other three towns, Riomaggiore, Corniglia, and Monterosso al Mare, would have to wait for another visit.

Rose Window in the Church of San Lorenzo

Manarola is one of the smallest Cinque Terre towns. It rolls down a steep hillside from the upper town square with the gothic Church of San Lorenzo and its bell tower across the central piazza. From there, it's a downhill stroll through a street full of charming and colorful houses, flowered terraces, streets lined with small fishing boats, terraced hills covered with grapevines, and small cafes and shops.

The main street in Manarola., lined with fishing boats.

The small shop Burasca is a good place to sample the arancello (similar to limoncello but made from oranges) and to shop for local wines and products.

There are many restaurants serving fresh local fish, even take-away places selling paper cones filled with fritto misto (mixed fried fish). Further down the hillside is the landing dock for the battello (boat) to the other Cinque Terre towns. An all-day "hop on, hop off" boat pass costs 25 euro, less for single tickets between just two towns.

The boat is a great way to see both the towns and the dramatic coastline. The approach from the sea provides those mozzafiato views - sheer cliffs, colorful houses dancing down the slopes, ancient towers, tiny harbors, a glance at Corniglia high up on the bluff, and views of the sea beyond. As the boat pulls into Vernazza there is a spectacular view of the castle ruins and an ancient tower, perched on high. It's not hard to imagine the pirate raids that occurred along this coast - the reason these defensive structures were built.

The sea approach to Vernazza and the remains of a defensive tower, now housing a restaurant.

Just around the corner from the boat dock lies Vernazza's small harbor with its fishing boats, a small spiaggia (beach), and a square full of cafes with brightly colored umbrellas and inviting patios.

Wandering through the town there are green shuttered houses on the hill, the intriguing church of Santa Margherita with its domed bell tower, a passage through an arch of rock to a small beachfront (marked with a "danger" sign, which didn't stop many people from entering), a tiny street side chapel, cafes, gelato spots, and many other shops. Near the train station is a billboard showing the damage done by the landslides and floods of October 2011. As mud and water came roaring down the steep hillside, the lower town and harbor filled with mud and debris. The damage was extensive and it's no small miracle that the town was rebuilt in a matter of a couple of years; today there is little obvious evidence of the destruction, though some of the trails between towns remain closed.

A table with a view at the Belforte restaurant in Vernazza, Italy

Returning to Manarola I had just enough time to walk back up the slope, buy some arancello, sample a local white wine, visit the church of San Lorenzo, and climb up to the parking lot to start the trip back to Lucca. Days like this I just have to pinch myself and feel so fortunate to have the opportunity for one perfect day in the Cinque Terra. Mozzafiato indeed. -post by JB

Not too long ago I had one of those good news, bad news travel days. The good news was that I was on a plane headed to Italy. The bad news was that I was not-so-luxuriously settled in an economy section seat. On balance, the joy of going to Italy definitely outweighs the discomforts of a long-haul economy cabin flight. Plus, I had taken advantage of an unusually low airfare to book a last-minute trip - an unexpected bonus. An upgrade would have cost more than the price of the ticket. So, I'm not complaining and I doubt I'd get much sympathy if I were! Instead, I thought this would be a good time to talk about surviving an overnight, transatlantic flight in the crowded back of the plane.

Whenever possible I use the points accumulated on my credit card to purchase a ticket; this gives the advantage of decreased cost while still earning airline miles for the flight. Then, I use accumulated frequent flyer miles, along with the money saved by purchasing the ticket with credit card points, to upgrade to business class on the outbound overseas flight. Lie-flat seats, real pillows and comforters, better meals, and a bit of spoiling mean I arrive rested and ready for adventure after an overnight flight. But, there are times when I can't upgrade, either because an upgrade using miles + money isn't available or I simply don't have the extra money needed (if it comes down to a choice to upgrade now or buy a ticket for another trip, the future trip always wins). When that happens, it's important to plan ahead and find ways to make the economy class experience less stressful. Here are some strategies:

If your airline offers it, pay for the extra leg room option. Even better if you can get it for free based on frequent flyer status. Those four extra inches of legroom really do make a difference on a long flight.

United Economy Plus seating on my way to Italy, December 2016

If possible, choose an exit row. The seat in front will have limited recline, which means you won't have someone's seatback invading your space. Plus, it often has a bit more leg room.
Use an app (for example Seat Guru) to research the best, and worst, seating options on any particular plane. Look for things like misaligned windows, fixed vs. moveable arm rests, proximity to bathrooms. Then, keep your own notes about plane configurations and seat preferences for future trips. Yes, I know this makes me a bona fide travel geek, but knowledge helps when choosing flights and seats.
For me, an aisle seat is the best choice; it feels less confined and allows the freedom to get up and move around without stepping over, or waking up, a neighbor. If you are one of those lucky souls who sleep soundly on planes (like my father who once slept from just after boarding in Denver to touchdown in London) then the window seat may be a better choice, but I'll take the aisle every time.
Stay comfy by wearing soft, non-binding clothes - not sloppy, just casual comfy. I'm a big fan of Chico's brand travelers, which look sharp, feel like PJs, and don't wrinkle. Leggings and a long tunic also look nice and wear well. Dressing in layers helps to overcome a too hot or too cold plane.
A good size pashmina or other wrap serves as a shawl for warmth and a blanket for sleep. I keep one rolled up in my travel bag and never fly without it, even in summer. I use the provided airline blanket for my lap or legs but near my face I want my own wrap, one I know is clean. Added bonus: after the flight a pashmina is a great fashion accessory.
Bring a neck pillow - those thin little airline pillows in economy provide little to no support and can lead to waking up with a stiff neck. A good pillow is especially important when trying to sleep in an aisle seat as you won't have the outer wall of the plane to rest your head against. I know people who like the grain-filled neck pillows, but for me they are too bulky and heavy to carry; I prefer the inflatable type with a plush outer cover such as the Bucky brand pictured below.

An inflatable neck pillow that collapses into a small, flat pouch, is lightweight and stores easily.

Once on board, change into a pair of slippers with good soles. I like the little folding ballet flat type. Bare feet are not appropriate (very inconsiderate of neighbors) and socks alone are not a good idea, especially when making a trip to the overused lavatory, which often has a damp if not puddled floor. Yuck! Compression hose under the slippers are good and may help in preventing in-flight blood clots (along with staying hydrated, moving around, and leg exercises in-flight) as well as reduce swelling in the feet and lower legs.

Isotoner brand ballet flat slippers slide into a carry on, have a good sole, and are machine washable.

Bring a good set of noise-cancelling headphones or earbuds. It's possible to test the Bose brand at many airport kiosks. They are worth the investment, especially for frequent travelers, and can be used with both the in-flight entertainment system or your own device. Hint: Don't forget to charge them before your trip.

BOSE noise-canceling headphones (left) and earbuds (right).  The headphones are the "gold standard" for noise reduction in flight and are Bluetooth enabled; the earbuds are smaller, lighter weight and also provide good noise reduction. — BOSE noise-canceling headphones (left) and earbuds (right). The headphones are the "gold standard" for noise reduction in flight and are Bluetooth enabled; the earbuds are smaller, lighter weight and also provide good noise reduction.

Music is my key to relaxation and sleep on board. Since my phone's music is in the cloud and not accessible in flight, I carry an iPod nano with my favorite music downloaded. The nano weighs practically nothing and fits in my earphone case or even in the smaller earbud case. I have my favorite songs for distraction (podcasts or audio books work well too) and a good selection of classical music for relaxation and sleep.

The iPod nano with BOSE noise-canceling earbuds - small, lightweight, and it provides hours of music.

Pack a nice snack (but no stinky foods). My go-to plane snacks are protein bars, pre-sliced apples, grapes, a wedge of Brie, some crackers, and a sweet treat, like a piece of shortbread. Airline food, especially in economy, is often unappealing, if not downright inedible. Having a stash of food that keeps well without refrigeration can be a life saver.
To encourage sleep, avoid both caffeine and alcohol. While that glass of wine may make you sleepy at first, it's likely to interrupt your sleep down the road. Water is your best bet as an in-flight beverage.
When ready to sleep, turn the TV monitor off and wear eye shades to block out light. Light is the enemy of sleep!
Bring a book, magazine, or other diversion (print or electronic). Never count on the in-flight entertainment system (IFE) to keep you occupied; it's surprising how often they fail!
Whether or not to take a sleep medication in flight is a personal choice; some people find them helpful (include me in this group) and others find that they don't make a big difference or leave them with a groggy hangover. One caution - never take one for the first time in-flight. Always do a trial run at home a few days before travel to see how you respond.

With these strategies my recent flight in economy went smoothly despite a malfunctioning IFE, inedible airline pasta, a completely full flight, and a plane that started out much too hot but became much too cold during the night. I even got a few hours of sleep. And then I was in Italy. Perfetto! -post by JB

All products shown are my personal property. Recommendations are based on my experiences and not on paid endorsements.

The Breathtaking Beauty of the Cinque Terre

Leaving on a Jet Plane