This long, strange spring is drawing to a close and we are now on the brink of summer. Here in Italy we are seeing a fairly rapid (some believe too rapid) loosening of lockdown restrictions and we continue to celebrate steep declines in new COVID-19 infections and death rates.

Here in northern Tuscany, May 24 marked the first day since the beginning of the COVID crisis with no deaths. This was announced by the local government with great enthusiasm. But also with a reminder that we are not finished with this virus (or, perhaps more accurately, it is not yet finished with us) but things are definitely headed in the right direction. There is a bit of a collective holding of the breath now to see if, with fewer restrictions and more social mobility, the rates of disease will begin to rise again. This is a well-founded concern - cases are already increasing in the hard-hit region of Lombardy in northern Italy. A second wave is a frightening prospect, and finding the right balance between restrictions and daily life is not clear cut.

So, what has changed in the past two weeks as we’ve entered phase two? Here are the big things: It began with an increased ability for individuals to be out and about and for families to be able to meet.  Then, it was announced that it was no longer mandatory to carry paperwork declaring a valid reason for being out of one’s home. This has allowed us to move about freely in our local areas. 

A huge change came the week of May 18 when it was announced that meeting with friends, in homes and outside, was now permitted.  That was followed shortly by the reopening of bars and restaurants, with strict limits on distancing (which, sadly, are already being ignored in many bars).  Restrictions remain, including the need to wear masks in shops and also outside when around other people. I estimate that here in Lucca about 80 percent of people are following the guidelines. Police cars circulate, reminding people about masks and distancing, but I have not observed them actually enforcing these rules. 

In this first week of June, travel throughout Italy, as well as in and out of other EU nations, will be possible.  Travel from many other parts of the world, including the U.S., Canada, and Australia, is still forbidden with no set date for it to resume. Best guess is that no tourism from those countries will be permitted this summer.

For me, it’s the small changes that bring the most joy. One of the first things I noticed was the change in sounds as I walked through town. Passing a just reopened bar/cafe one morning, I smiled at the sounds of coffee making - the hiss of the espresso machine, the clink of coffee cup meeting saucer, the banter of the barrister with a client at the bar. I had not realized how much I missed those sounds. Hearing them again was music to my ears.  Actually sitting outside in a beautiful piazza, sharing a coffee with a friend, was a welcome slice of nearly normal.

There is also an increase in the sounds of children out and about at play, riding bikes, laughing with their parents, fishing in the canal that runs through Lucca, chattering in that lovely lilting child’s Italian. What a reassuring and joyful noise they make.

There are also the smells - the scent of bread coming from one of the local bakeries, the smell of Sunday lunch being cooked in an apartment down the street as I pass by an open window. Perhaps my favorite early summer scent is the sweet note of star jasmine in bloom, looking gorgeous spilling over a wall not too far from my home. The freedom to walk through town enjoying these seemingly ordinary sensory experiences feels extraordinary after several months of COVID-related restrictions.

And the markets! Instead of hurried trips to the nearest store for essentials, a quick in and out or perhaps waiting outside while the merchant gathered goods, we now have the luxury of going across town to a market and even of taking a bit more time to shop. While the number of people allowed in at one time is still limited, and for the most part the merchant chooses and bags fruit and veggies rather than the customer doing it themselves, it all feels just a bit more relaxed now. It’s wonderful to be able to go in and take just a few seconds for a chat with the merchant. There is an increased sense of lightness about interactions these days, and the typical Italian charm and friendliness are on full display. The other day, after discussing with the fruttivendolo my apple preference (tart or sweet, green or red), my desired cauliflower size (piccolo per favore), and pointing to the basket of fragole (strawberries) that I wanted, the merchant bagged my groceries and, just as a kindness, added in a handful of cherries. I ate them as soon as I got home - the sweetness of Italy, and it tasted just perfect. -post by Joanne