Two Parts Italy

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Hillside Hamlets in Tuscany

The church in Gombitelli

Part of the fun in exploring Tuscany, I am discovering, is finding hamlets high in the hills that many people have never heard about. These places might not have the museums or art that lure tourists from near and far but they certainly have history and charm and beauty. They are in their own way living museums.

Starting a hike in the village of Nocchi.

I often am shown these places when hiking with one of the many trekking groups in the region. But driving is always another option (and sometimes I am so enchanted with a village during a hike that I drive back another day for more of a look).

One recent hike led me and my fellow trekkers to three small villages in the municipality of Camaiore – Nocchi, Torcigliano and Gombitelli. Nocchi, our meeting point to begin the 15-kilometer trek, is among the oldest of the villages of Camaiore. It was established on a section of road that dates to Roman times. Situated in a beautiful valley, the village is an old mill town and remnants of those giant structures can still be seen today. The many mills were built along the Lucese (not Lucchese, as in Lucca) River and water was diverted through a “gora,” or millpond, to a mill’s huge stone wheels.

Nocchi had its share of villas as well – some of which remain today. Stone paths, buildings and walls – lined with gardens, gnomes and geraniums – make for a pretty spectacular sight. All three of these villages are lovingly tended to by today’s residents. We reached Torcigliano by hiking through what is now dense forest but once was land cultivated by the farmers of the area who grew, among other things, olives and chestnuts. Old faucets still dispense cold water (such a refreshing relief on a muggy summer day). One we stopped at had a small statue of the Virgin Mary watching over it. Mountain streams run through the land, a stone bridge that looks like it should be on the page of a fairy tale book crosses one of them and a long-abandoned mill is covered with vines and other greenery deep in the forest.

Torcigliano – in addition to being a thing of beauty in and of itself – has modern-day murals on one long wall, as well as a running faucet at the side of one of the village walkways. It is a beautiful spot up close as well as from a distance. Seen from the surrounding hills as we walked to Gombitelli, its sun-baked rooftops surrounded by forest greens, it was easy to understand why people have lived here for so long.

Gombitelli

Gombitelli was once home to a castle, the ruins of which remain on a steep hillside (too steep and out of the way for our hike). It and Torcigliano were also known for their blacksmiths and ironwork. And Gombitelli is where a well-liked Italian sausage is made. It is a simple yet stunningly beautiful village set into the hillside with amazing views of Lucca in the distance.

A huge thanks to Tuscan Trail Tours for leading this adventure. I adore the big cities of Italy – Rome, Florence, Naples, etc. – and I am so charmed by the Tuscan towns that I have chosen to live in one (Lucca), but these and other hamlets have my heart as well.   -post by Judy