What a busy, Christmas-y week it has been! December 8th, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception and an Italian national holiday, marked the official start of the Christmas season here in Italy. It is the traditional day for cities to hold tree lighting ceremonies and for families to put up decorations, including a presepe (nativity scene) and a Christmas tree. Some towns and shops start a bit earlier, so that by the first week in December there are a lot of holiday events to be found.

This year it seems that everyone is ready to celebrate. Unlike last year, when much of Italy was under pandemic restrictions that kept holiday markets closed and celebrations curtailed, this year the holiday season has arrived in festive fashion. For me, that means gathering with friends (in small, fully vaccinated groups), entering all the beautifully decorated shops in Lucca (with mask in place), and sipping a hot drink at a chilly outdoor cafe in a light filled piazza. It also means being able to visit nearby towns to browse through Christmas markets, marvel at lights and decorations, and appreciate the joy of the season. With that spirit in mind, the past week has been filled with events - a holiday market and lunch in Pietrasanta, an overnight in Firenze (Florence) which is pure magic at this time of year, and several meet-ups with friends. I am filling up on Italian Christmas before I head to New Mexico for some family time and a southwestern holiday. Whew! I may be a bit tired, but I am smiling.

The first stop on my list of Christmas events was Pietrasanta, a delightful small village in the province of Lucca. About an hour by train from my home (30 minutes by car), it is one of my favorite day trips. I have visited Pietrasanta many times, enjoying its artsy atmosphere and beautiful city center (for more on Pietrasanta: https://twopartsitaly.com/blog/2021/5/26/heaven-and-hell-in-pietrasanta) but I had never made a visit during the winter. After reading about the local Christmas market, I decided it was time to go. And so last week I hopped on a train with some friends to spend a Sunday exploring holiday time in Pietrasanta.

There was plenty of holiday spirit to be found! Just outside the arched entryway to the city center, in Piazza Carducci, was a larger-than-life Santa Claus and the first of a series of really interesting pieces of art. The large, colorful pieces struck me as a cross between the metal parts of old erector sets (anyone else old enough to remember those?) and legos. That may sound strange, but it made for some really fun sculptures, several of which fit the Christmas theme including the brightly colored tree pictured here. They were created by the Italian artist name Tano Pisano; the series is called Meccano. It continues with several large pieces in Piazza del Duomo and at the facade of the Church of Sant’Agostino (there are more of his pieces within the church and cloister - all will be on display through February 2022).

The center of Piazza del Duomo, the main square, is where the Christmas tree sits, surrounded by over-sized holiday ornaments and more sculptures by Pisano.

At the far end of the piazza, the market was filled with handcrafted and specialty Christmas items. Each booth had something different to offer - from hats to housewares, lamps to ceramic pieces, ornaments to beautifully turned wooden toys.

And the setting! Browsing through the stalls while enjoying views of nearby bell towers, statues, the old town fortress walls, blue Tuscan skies dotted with soft white clouds was just perfect . A Christmas card worthy scene.

Wandering the streets from Piazza del Duomo through town to Piazza Matteotti took us past art galleries, shops, fanciful windows, wonderful decorations, and an outdoor antiques market.

After a stop for lunch at the small and cozy restaurant Quarantuno (my go to lunch spot in Pietrasanta) it was time for a train back to Lucca. A wonderful day and a great start to the holiday season.

My busy week continued a few days later when I headed to Florence. More on that next week!