The Renaissance era walls that surround the historic center of Lucca are beautiful in every season. It is pure joy to watch the evolution of the trees that line the walls as spring’s tender green leaves turn to summer’s shady trees and fall’s glorious colors. In winter, the trees are bare and yet they have their own stark beauty. And because winters are often stormy, the skies create an ever changing scene during a walk along the walls.

Winter weather does not keep the Lucchese from a daily passegiata (walk) along the walls. And while you’d never see a true Italian out in even mildly chilly weather without a scarf (fear of “mal di gola”, a sore throat caused by the cold is a deeply held belief here), adults and children alike don scarves and warm coats and head to the wall for some wintertime recreation.

A walk along the walls presents a different vista around each curve - bell towers, statues, mountains capped in snow, city views visible though bare tree limbs, long rows of trees, and the beautiful shape of the wall itself.

This winter delivered mild temperatures and lots of rain. That means that, although it’s winter, there is a lot of color to be found despite the bare trees. Tree trunks are covered in soft green moss, the grassy areas just outside the walls have stayed green all winter, and the tall stone pines (also called umbrella pines for their unique shape) are evergreen. Color also appeared in the last part of February in the form of small crocuses growing along the top of the walls.

More winter color comes at sunset. When the temperatures are mild an evening walk on the walls reveals an eye-pleasing evolution of shadow and color. I’m not sure there is a more delightful time for a passeggiata than a winter evening.

Soon, spring will overtake winter as trees wake up and flowers start to bloom. I’m looking forward to magnolias and wisteria and poppies but today I’m going to enjoy the last bit of winter.