It is not uncommon for visitors to northern Italy to make stops in Milan and Lake Como, heading next to Venice.  It’s a wonderful itinerary but leaves out some of the less-visited cities in the Veneto region. One of these cities is Padova (Padua), which lies just a short train ride from Venice. It’s easy to spend a full day in Padova as part of a visit to Venice but it is even better to take a few days and really get to know this interesting city.   As a bonus, Padova is less expensive than major tourist destinations (including Venice), has fewer tourists (there were almost none during my off-season early March visit), is a friendly university town, and has some great food!  The URBS Picta card (sometimes referred to as The Padova Card) includes admission to a number of major sites and is a helpful adjunct in organizing a visit.

 Visitors to Padova are most often drawn to the city by its two major sights, the Scrovegni Chapel and the Basilica of Saint Anthony.  It was the Scrovegni Chapel, filled with frescoes by the artist Giotto, that drew me to Padova earlier this month. The small chapel is a masterpiece of medieval art. Giotto, already a well-know artist, worked on the Scrovegni Chapel from 1303 – 1305, creating frescoes that demonstrate the revolution in artistic expression for which he is celebrated.  As in most churches of the time, the frescoes tell stories from the bible and the life of Christ.  They are arranged in a series of panels which wrap around the walls of the small chapel. The Scrovegni Chapel is an important site for those interested in the art of this period and the works of Giotto. Admittance is limited and must be reserved in advance. The Scovegni is such a wonder that it deserves a post all its own, with lots of photos. Coming soon!

The chapel grounds also contain the Eremitani Civic Museum. It is quite large with a wide variety of exhibits. Etruscan and Egyptian artifacts fill the main floor. Interesting, but less so than what comes next.

The upper floor is the real star - the Pinacoteca (Gallery of Paintings). It is filled with an outstanding collection of art by Italian masters. Not to be missed is Giotto’s painted wooden crucifix, moved to the museum from the Scrovegni Chapel.

Among my personal favorites were the fierce angels painted by Guariento in the 14th century (below, top row) and the portraits by Ginevra Cantofoli done in the 17th century. Female artists were relatively few in that time period, so it is always good to see the work of one prominently displayed. Contofoli’s portraits are especially lovely (below, bottom row).

The second major site in Padova is the Basilica of Saint Anthony (Sant’Antonio di Padova). The basilica is an important site for those who come to seek the saint’s help.  St. Anthony is known to aid in finding lost things, protecting travelers, and for blessing women who wish to become pregnant.  It’s even said that he can help find a lost love.  Many believers come in pilgrimage to give thanks for prayers answered or to visit the chapel of the relics.

 I have always been amazed – and perhaps a bit disconcerted – by the concept of a relic.  In the case of Saint Anthony, the relics found in the ornate Chapel of the Reliquaries (within the basilica) include the jaw bone (complete with teeth), the tongue, and the vocal cords of the saint.  Worshippers, along with the merely curious, visit the chapel to see vestments worn by the saint along with his wooden coffin.  Then they climb the steps to the ornate wall displaying his head rest (no soft pillow here, this head rest is made of stone), the three relics, and other artifacts.

 The tomb of Saint Anthony lies in a separate chapel within the basilica. This large side chapel is near to the tiny section of the basilica which was the original chapel (before the basilica was built) and where the saint was first buried.  His tomb was later opened and his body moved into the larger basilica. The tomb is surrounded by beautifully carved renaissance era marble panels representing scenes from the saint’s life, topped by an intricate gold ceiling, and elevated on a marble altar.  Worshippers pass behind the ornate altar to touch the tomb, in prayer or in thanks for blessings received.

The basilica complex also includes cloisters and the small but interesting Oratorio di San Giorgio (Oratory of Saint George). The oratory has frescoes detailing the lives, and martyrdom, of Saints George, Catherine, and Lucy. There is no better way to refresh childhood memories of the lives of saints than to view them through these illustrations.

While the Scrovegni Chapel and the Basilica of Saint Anthony are the most famous sights in Padova, the city has much more to offer. Next week, in Part Two, the introduction to Padova continues.