Appreciating April in Lucca

 Apprezzare is an Italian verb meaning “to appreciate”. That word that has defined much of my time in Italy.  I appreciate the Italian culture, the beauty of this land, the musical language (even if my mastery of it is still a long way off), the people.  Not a day goes by that I am not aware of how fortunate I am to have the opportunity to live in Lucca and travel in Italy.

 But a more specific form of appreciation is on my mind this week.  After dodging the Covid virus for the last 3 years, it finally caught me this month.  Following nearly two weeks in isolation, with some unpleasant but not scary symptoms, and multiple tampone (swabs), I finally received the all-clear to resume my normal activities.  Those two weeks were tough but brought many reminders of reasons to be thankful.  I appreciate that I didn’t get sick back when Covid was ravaging this country.  Back when there were no tests, no vaccines, no treatments, only fear.  I have a renewed appreciation for the science that gave us vaccines and the boosters which I firmly believe kept me from serious, much worse symptoms. 

I appreciate the friendly local pharmacist who administered my swabs and helped me interpret the most current rules for Covid isolation.  That the pharmacy is full of old-world Italian charm makes sitting for those nasal swabs much easier.   I am beyond grateful for a good support system here and the many friends who kept in touch and surprised me with everything from soup to cheese to decadent pastries and Easter chocolates.  I have never enjoyed finding goodies on my doorstep so much!

And how I appreciate being able to enjoy these last days of April in Italy.  Lucca has awakened after its winter rest and is buzzing with activity.  The wisteria are in bloom, the ancient walls are dotted with wild flowers, and trees are sprouting green leaves.  The photinia bushes outside my window are resplendent in rusty red spring leaves.  Days are getting longer and warmer.  Cafes and restaurants are setting out tables, umbrellas, and buckets of flowers.  The simple joy of an aperitivo out of doors is even better after a couple weeks of confinement. The walls surrounding the historic center of Lucca are filled with people on foot and on bicycle. Ordinary days feel extraordinary in springtime.

 And the spring celebrations have begun.  I may have spent Easter indoors but was free the following Sunday to see the Liberation Day pageantry.  That event, which celebrates the long ago (14th century) liberation of Lucca from control by Pisa, filled Lucca with the sound of drums.  Trumpets, played by persons in Medieval costumes, heralded the arrival of flag throwers and men carrying crossbows.  There were bow shooting competitions, flag throwing demonstrations, and a wonderful, costumed procession.  I certainly appreciate that I was recovered and able to enjoy the fun.

 Coming up next is an event I look forward to every year – the flower festival in honor of one of Lucca’s favorite saints – Santa Zita.  I will appreciate every minute !

Pontremoli: A Walk, A Castle, and Prehistoric Rock Carvings

The Lunigiana region reaches from the northern part of Tuscany into Liguria, all the way to the coast. It is a unique area, quite different from the classic images of Italy. No grand cathedrals, huge museums, or rolling vineyards here. The region is mountainous, forested, and crossed by rivers. There are no large cities to be found, instead there are small medieval hamlets, many with ancient towers and castles. Some of the castles lie in ruins, complete or partial, but a few are remarkably well preserved.

Castello del Piagnaro, Pontremoli

One such castle is the Castello del Piagnaro in the town of Pontremoli. The castle dates from the 10th century, with cycles of expansion, destruction, and rebuilding over the ensuing centuries. Some components of the Castello have been lost to time, a drawbridge for example, and some elements are as new as the 15th century tower (if something that old can really be called new).

Today the restored castle compound stands guard high above Pontremoli and welcomes visitors to both the castle interior and the Museum of the Stele Statues of the Lunigiana which is housed within its ancient walls.

Half the joy of seeing the castle is the walk to it from the historic center of Pontremoli. The walk begins from the small main street and winds up even smaller alleys to the castle. Along the way are small shops, medieval buildings, arches, gates, views, and the occasional cat.

This sign marks a steep little alley that leads to the castle.

The walk winds uphill, but it is not terribly steep. For a less inspiring, but less strenuous, way to the castle take the elevator from Porta Parma at the north end of town directly to the castle grounds. I found the hike up to be definitely worth the effort. With stops along the way to admire the ancient buildings, chat with local residents, and enjoy the views to the town below it was a walk I would not have missed!

There is a ticket office just inside the castle gates where a combined ticket for the museum and castle can be purchased for 7 euro (4 euro for those over 65). From the ticket office you can enter the museum directly or cross to the castle entrance.

The museum is fascinating. Stele (not to be confused with the similar Italian word stelle which has a different meaning all together) are prehistoric carvings, representing human figures, found throughout the Lunigiana region. They have been housed in the castle museum since 1975 and are truly a treasure.

Both male and female figures are represented. The males seem to be warriors, armed with knives. The women, bare breasted, are adorned with necklaces. The dark rooms and dramatic lighting show the pieces off perfectly.

After the stele, it is time to wander through the castle. And I do mean wander - there are many rooms, courtyards, staircases, and roof top terraces to explore. Amazingly, there were no guards or “keep out” signs to be found, just freedom to explore and to wonder what life must have been like for the people who occupied this building over the centuries.

Perched high up on this hill, the castle offers spectacular views down the hill to the city and river below. Walking back down to the village, along a different small alley than on the way up, provides for another scenic walk through the oldest portions of Pontremoli.

A visit to Pontremoli, and a hike up to the castle, provides a wonderful contrast to the more touristed places in Tuscany and Liguria. It’s a special experience!

An Autumn Weekend in Pontremoli

For 5 days at the end of October and beginning of November my Italian hometown of Lucca hosts the huge Lucca Comics and Games event.   Picture 75,000+ people a day descending on the small, walled city and a series of white tents lining the historic walls and filling the piazzas.   It is an important economic event for the city and a big deal for afficionados of costumes, gaming, anime, superheroes and the like.  Lots of people love it, but for some of us it is simply crowds and chaos.  This year, after two pandemic years in which the festival was cancelled (2020) or scaled back (2021), the crowds were predicted to be bigger than ever.  That made it the perfect time to for me to plan an out-of-town escape. 

One of Pontremoli’s small alleyways - an invitation to explore!

 This year my “escape from comics” destination was suggested by Nancy, one of Two Parts Italy’s readers. Just as I was trying to decide where to go over comics, I received a lovely email from her asking if I’d ever been to Pontremoli.  She went on to say that she had just spent several days there and thought it was just the kind of place I would love.  She included photos and recommendations for things to do.  What serendipity!  I had never been to Pontremoli and receiving that email was all the inspiration I needed.  I quickly found that I could get to Pontremoli by train from Lucca in under 2 hours.  I found a lovely Airbnb apartment to rent and a friend who was ready to share the adventure.  The more I read about the town, the more excited I was to visit. I am so glad that Nancy took the time to write to me!

Pontremoli is a village in the Massa-Carrara Province of Tuscany, population around 7000.  The town lies in the historical region of the Lunigiana, which straddles the regions of Tuscany and Liguria.  It is a region of mountains, forests, rivers, old towers, castles, and small medieval hamlets.  The Via Francigena, the pilgrim’s route between Canterbury and Rome, crosses the area including right through Pontremoli. 

Pontremoli’s historic center as seen from one of the foot bridges over the Torrente Verde

 Like many of the medieval towns in the region, Pontremoli has a well-preserved centro storico (historic center) which feels a world apart from the more modern town beyond.  The centro storico is wedged between two rivers, the Torrente Verde and the Fiume Magra.  The rivers are crossed by a series of old stone bridges.  Ponte is the Italian word for bridge and Pontremoli means trembling bridge.  Perhaps the original, ancient wooden bridges trembled, but today the bridges are rock solid. 

Several of the bridges are for foot traffic only. Strolling across them gives views of the green riverbanks, parks, medieval buildings, and the Castello del Piagnaro which sits high above the village. 

My companion and I quickly settled into the habit of a daily walk across the Ponte della Cresa to the north, down the green space along the Torrente Verde, across the Ponte Stemma on the south, and to the tip of Pontremoli where the Torrente Verde joins the Fiume Magra, forming one larger river. A green and peaceful park sits at this spot, quiet other than the sound of the tumbling waters of the two rivers. 

During this October visit the trees where changing colors and the fallen leaves made for a special landscape during our walks.

The Torre del Cacciaguerra, Pontremoli

 The historic center stretches between two tower gates along what is basically one long street, although the street name changes several times from Via Cavour to Via Armani to Via Garibaldi. 

Along the way are two side-by-side piazzas, the Piazza della Repubblica and the Piazza del Duomo.  Long ago the two piazzas divided the town between two opposing groups, the Guelphs and Ghibellines, preventing all-out conflict. 

A very tall campanile (bell tower), built in 1322 as part of a city fortress, stands between the two piazzas and is known by two names – The Campanone (meaning really big bell tower) and the Torre del Cacciaguerra (Tower of the War Fighters). 

Today there are no warring factions and the two pretty squares are ringed with cafes and shops. The piazzas are also where the Saturday market is held. Visiting a local Saturday market is a great cultural experience in any small village and the one in Pontremoli was no exception. Local produce, especially from the fall harvest, made for a colorful market.

The route to the castle

 Off the main street are several alleys which climb up towards the castle.  The walk is uphill but not terribly steep and the experience of wandering through the medieval castle village is well worth the climb.  The castle also houses a museum with pre-historic rock carvings called Stele.  More on the castle and the Stele in a future post !

 Pontremoli was a perfect fall getaway and wonderful spot for a long weekend.  Views over the river, the sound of rushing water, green spaces, changing leaves, and stone bridges made for a perfect weekend escape.

Adding to the fun, we found some wonderful restaurants serving local dishes such as Testaroli (a type of large round crepe) with Pesto and Frittelle di Farina di Castagna (little fried chestnut flour cakes) con Ricotta. 

For morning coffee and a pastry, the Antica Pasticceria e Caffè degli Svizzeri with its scrumptious pastries and beautiful liberty-style café, can’t be beat. 

Where the Torrente Verde joins the Fiume Magra

A Walk Through Brisighella

The region of Emilia-Romagna stretches from Tuscany to the Adriatic coast. Many of its cities are well known for their cuisine. It is some of the best in Italy - think Bologna, Parma, and Modena. Of course this region also makes some outstanding cars and motorcycles with famous names like Ferrari, Ducati, Lamborghini, Maserati. Beyond that, there is one of the oldest universities in the world, the University of Bologna. It is a region full of diverse riches including a host of UNESCO World Heritage sites.

The Treno di Dante makes a 90 minute stop in Brisighella on some of its itineraries.

There are still some hidden gems in Emilia - Romagna, places off the usual tourist routes. One of these places is the borgo (small village) of Brisighella. I knew nothing about this hamlet before I booked my passage on the vintage Treno di Dante (Dante’s Train) which made a stop there on the way to Ravenna. I included a few photos of Brisighella in last week’s post about the Treno di Dante, but I had so many more photos of this intriguing little village that I had to give it its very own post.

A 90 minute whistle stop doesn’t give nearly enough time to get to know this medieval village. But it’s enough time to spark curiosity and a desire to return. I am already thinking about another visit, perhaps next spring when there is a celebration of the local specialty, the Moretto artichoke. In the meantime, I will share some glimpses of this intriguing borgo.

Looking over Brisighella’s rooftops from up above the Via degli Asini

“Main Street” in Brisighella

From the train station, it is a short walk through a pretty park to get to the center of town.

There is one primary street, lined with cafes, shops, and small restaurants. The buildings are colorful, artisan goods spill out of the shops to invite browsing, and there are lots of flowers. Even the street signs are interesting.

Small alleys and steep stairs branch out from the main road.

The views of the surrounding hills add to the joy of wandering through town.

Above the town are two landmarks. The first is the castle fortress, the Rocca Manfrediana, built in the 14th centrury. The second is the not-quite-so-old (19th century) Torre dell’Orologia (clock tower) that seems to rise magically from the rock formation at its base. In some ways the entire city seems to have risen from the rocks.

Rising above the main street is the Via del Borgo, also known as the Via degli Asini. Long ago this was an important defensive structure. Later asini (donkeys) climbed this street with their loads of gypsum. Today it is lined with small homes with characteristic wooden doors, pretty windows, and a series of arches framing views of the street below and the distant hills.

Up above the Via degli Asini is a pathway that leads to views of rooftops, distant hills, and the fortress. As for the donkeys, the only ones we saw were in a ceramic shop - a colorful souvenir of a stop in Brisighella.

Like other places in Emiglia - Romagna, Brisighella is supposed to have excellent food. On my short visit there was no time for lunch, just a quick coffee. This gives me one more reason to plan a return visit. Next time I will take the regular train, about a 3 1/2 hour journey from my home in Lucca. With winter coming up, I’ll enjoy doing some planning for spring adventures on cold winter morning.

Melograni (pomegranates) growing in Brisighella

Dante’s Train

A 4 person compartment in the vintage train’s 3rd class car. Today it is a wonderful spot for a ride on the Dante Train.

Dante, the most famous of all Italian poet philosophers, was born in Florence in the year 1265.  He lived in Florence, married, fathered 4 children, and became a person of importance in the city of his birth.  But by 1302 political rivalries and power struggles saw him banished from Florence.  He faced a terrible fate should he return - death by being burned alive. 

Leaving his family behind, he traveled throughout Italy and eventually settled in the city of Ravenna, where he wrote Paradiso.  He died there of malaria in 1321 and was buried in the city. Some years after his death the cities of Florence and Ravenna began fighting over his remains. 

Interior of Dante’s tomb in Varenna

Florence claimed that as Dante’s place of birth he should certainly rest there.  Ravenna argued that since Dante lived the last part of his life, died, and was buried in Ravenna, he should always remain in that city.  When the Florentines tried to reclaim the body some 200 years after his death (those Florentines just never give up!), they found his sarcophagus empty.  His body was most likely removed and then hidden by Franciscan monks to keep it away from those pesky Florentines. 

The monks never did reveal the hiding place and for more than 300 years Dante’s remains were lost.  They were rediscovered in 1885 and briefly exhibited to the public before being placed inside his tomb.  The remains have been moved several times to protect them during times of war, but thankfully never again misplaced. Today, Dante’s body lies once again in his peaceful small tomb near the Basilica of San Francesco in the center of Ravenna.  Each year the Florentine’s send the oil that lights the lamp above the monument.

During his exile, Dante crossed the territory between Florence and Ravenna.  The area, partly in Tuscany and partly in Emilia-Romagna, includes the Apennine hills, deep valleys, rivers, and forests full of chestnut trees.  One thing is certain though – Dante definitely did not travel by train!  The first trains didn’t arrive in Italy until 1839, about 500 years after his death.

 So, how is it that just last week I rode Dante’s very own train (Il Treno di Dante) from Florence, through the landscape of Dante’s wanderings, to Ravenna?   The train trip named for Dante was introduced in 2021, to celebrate the 700th anniversary of his death.  The route was offered again this summer and fall.

The centoporte train during a stop-over in Brisighella. Likely Dante didn’t wear a mask during his travels, but in late September Italy still required them on trains. Thanks to Diana Nason for this photo.

 The Treno di Dante is a restored “centoporte” (100 doors) train from the 1920’s.  The small cars have compartments of 4 seats, each with its own door and windows.  The interiors bring back an earlier, more gracious age of travel.  The seats are wooden benches as upholstery was only found in first class, the trim is polished wood.  The windows are curtained.  The wooden luggage racks above each seat are spacious (and far more useful than the narrow racks found on modern trains).  Many of the fittings are brass - door handles, curtain rods, window latches, vents above the windows, even the pull for the emergency brake.  All of these things combine to make the train elegant.  This is slow travel at its best. And if you are a train buff - well, this is a rare opportunity to ride a vintage Italian train.

The trip begins in Florence at Santa Maria Novella station.  On route to Ravenna it travels through several small villages including Borgo San Lorenzo, Marradi, Brisighella as well as the larger town of Faenza.   The trip includes one stop, sometimes in Faenza and other times in Brisighella. We had plenty of time to explore the medieval village of Brisighella on our trip during a 90 minute stop (photos below).  After leaving Florence at 8:50 am we arrived in Ravenna a little after 1:00pm.

 On board, a guide shares some Dante history along with information about the countryside through which the train travels and the small villages along the way.  The narration is mostly in Italian, but the guide did provide an abbreviated version in English.  The train moves just slow enough to appreciate the beautiful scenery along the route.

Dante himself made a surprise appearance, traveling through the cars in his red robes and talking with passengers.  Still in exile, he didn’t join the train until after we left Florence.

There is no need to be a Dante scholar to enjoy this activity.  It was a fun journey - a relaxing ride with lovely scenery, a beautiful historic train, a chance to explore Brisighella, and a dash of history too. 

A couple of days in Ravenna at the end of the trip provided a chance to explore the city and learn more about its Dante connections. It is an fascinating city and oh wow - those mosaics!  Look for more on Ravenna in upcoming blog posts.

The Dante Train runs this year through November 1st.  I found no current information about whether there will be a 2023 season of the Treno di Dante. 

 Website:  www.iltrenodidante.it

 Tickets can also be booked through Get Your Guide. Website:   getyourguide.com