March in Lucca

The month of March starts off slow in Lucca and then builds towards the first hints of spring, an explosion of flowers, the beginning of the busy visitor season and, finally, Spring.

But so far, the first week of March isn’t feeling much different than February.  It’s still raining.  With gray skies and bare trees, most of the color comes from a rainbow of umbrellas. 

And while the temperatures are slowly creeping up, it is still chilly. Perfect weather for soup, pots of tea, afternoon naps, and catching up with friends. 

Even better if the catching up happens over a cappuccino in an elegant cafe.

I’ve been back in Lucca for two weeks now, after a long visit to the US over the holidays and all through January. A walk around town, even in the drizzly weather, is a good remedy for the prolonged case of jet lag that has hounded me since my return.  

This statue of Luigi Boccherini is always there to greet me when I return to Lucca. He sits outside the Boccherini Institute, a music school. It isn’t far from my apartment so I pass by often. Walking past and hearing the sounds of students practicing is always a sure sign that I am back in Lucca.

As I walk, I enjoy seeing familiar places as well as small forgotten details and surprise finds. 

Stumbling across a little vignette like this one is always a delightful surprise.

I am always delighted by how many new details I find even after 5 years of living here - a previously unnoticed stretch of decorative brick, a bit of street art, a beautiful art deco piece decorating a building, a fanciful torch holder, a unique door knocker, beautiful decorative ironwork, a statue.    

 On my recent walks I’ve also tried to pay attention to the signs of the season in Lucca.  The nearly empty weekday streets are a sure sign that it is still late winter. 

The many temporarily closed cafes and bars signify the owners’ chance to grab a bit of rest after the holidays and the excitement of Carnevale and before the hubbub of events that surround Easter.

The bare branches of this tree are like a sculpture against the backdrop of the old brick and stone church wall.

At this time of year there is a stark beauty in the bare trees and vines.  In a few weeks the wisteria will begin to flower and the trees will turn green with leaves.  And the visitors will arrive.  But not just yet.  And, with all those bare branches, what a wonderful surprise this week to turn a corner and find a whole street of magnolias already in bloom. 

Mimosas are the traditional gift for la Festa della Donna

I am looking forward to several events that will come later this month. March 8th marks the Festa della Donna (International Women’s Day), a day to celebrate the achievements of women in all fields. Bright yellow bunches of mimosas are a traditional part of the day.

After that comes the Festa di San Giuseppe (Feast of Saint Joseph) on the 19th.  I admit that it is the traditional feast day frittelle that I really look forward to.  I’ll take two cream filled ones please.

Later in March, Good Friday will be marked with a traditional and very solemn procession through the streets of Lucca.  

It is an historic and moving event and one that always marks the beginning of spring for me. March will conclude with Easter. It arrives early this year, on March 31st. 

The Good Friday procession in Lucca

There are also some unique events happening this month. One is an exhibit of works by Antonio Canova (it runs through September). That exhibit will be a good thing to do on one of these a rainy March afternoons.

2024 marks the 100th anniversary of the death of Giacomo Puccini. And Puccini is a big deal here in Lucca where he was born. He started his musical career playing in local churches and spent much of his adult life in the area. He spent a lot of time in Lucca’s Caffe di Simo (in Puccini’s time it was known as Café Caselli).  Sadly, that cafe has been closed for more than a decade now, sitting empty on Via Fillungo.  It is a legendary place that has not been significantly changed since Puccini last met his friends there. It will reopen (temporarily) for several special events during the Puccini celebrations this year.  It’s one of those abandoned, dusty places that I have long wanted to see. I am looking forward to being able to get inside! 

This pretty cat made me smile on one of my wanders through Lucca. Here he sits outside the church where Puccini was baptized.

After its slow and quiet start, March promises to be a busy month in Lucca with lots of activities, celebrations, and the slow unfolding of spring. 

I’m ready!

The Basilica of San Lorenzo in Florence

It’s hard to have a favorite church in Florence.  It may even be wrong to choose a favorite considering the number of historic and significant churches in the city.  The Duomo, officially the Church of Santa Maria del Fiore, with its magnificent façade and campanile, is famous for good reason.  Consider Santa Maria Novella, Santa Croce, Santissima Annunziata – and those are just the basilicas inside the historic center.  Add in smaller churches, chapels, baptisteries, oratorios, bell towers and wonderful churches outside the center and, well, it would take years to explore them all.  How could anyone choose a favorite?

Tomb of Berta Moltke Hwitfeldt, Corbelli Chapel, Basilica of San Lorenzo

 And yet, I do have a couple of favorites.   One is the Basilica of San Lorenzo, whose 4th century origins make it the oldest church in Florence.  Redesigned by Brunelleschi in the 15th century, and completed after his death, it was the parish church of the Medici family, many of whom are buried there.

Detail, Basilica of San Lorenzo, Florence

 San Lorenzo is more than just a church – the complex also has a museum, the Laurentian Library, and the Medici Chapels.  Underneath the Medici chapels is a recently discovered hidden room with rough sketches by Michelangelo covering the walls. Right now it’s the hottest attraction in town but it was not yet opened during my November stay in Florence. The library is not always open, and a special ticket is needed for the Medici Chapel.  The entire complex is a bit too much for one visit.

On my recent off-season stay in Florence, I stopped by on the spur of the moment and purchased a ticket which included only the cloister and church, both of which were uncrowded and just right for a short visit.

What is it that makes the San Lorenzo Basilica one of my favorites?   It starts with the rough stone exterior.  Unlike the polished marble façade of the Duomo, the San Lorenzo stands unadorned and underdressed.  It was meant to have a white marble façade, designed by Michelangelo at the request of the Medici Pope Leo X.   But the pope died, the money dried up, and the façade was never installed. 

Inside, the basilica feels quiet and peaceful with its simple geometric floor anchoring graceful arches and columns in gray Pietra Serena (Serene Stone).  The high, round, windows let in light through their clear glass.  Even the ceiling, with its gold edged squares and central medallions (look for the Medici coat of arms) feels calming. Unlike more ornate churches (such as my other favorite, the very Baroque Santissima Annunziata), San Lorenzo has low contrast colors and finishes. This allows it to feel open and airy. The Basilica is a soothing space that supports quiet contemplation and an uncluttered mind. 

Another reason to love this church is the way in which it showcases the work of Donatello.  His two ornately carved pulpits, raised high atop marble columns in the center of the church, are considered his final masterpieces.

Donatello’s pulpits , Basilica of San Lorenzo

The church holds many remarkable pieces of art, but not so many as to be overwhelming.  There are sculptures, including graceful tomb markers, and some significant paintings, many of which sit in small side chapels.

Bronzino’s The Martyrdom of St. Lawrence

Perhaps the two most well-known paintings are an Annunciation by Filippo Lippi (below, right) and the Betrothal of the Virgin by Rosso Fiorentino (below, left).  Two very different styles, both captivating.   

Old Sacristy, Basilica of San Lorenzo

The biggest reason for my love of this church is the small Sagrestia Vecchia (Old Sacristy).  Designed by Brunelleschi, it was the only portion of the church completed before his death.  His perfectly proportioned design incorporates a square room with a ribbed dome on top, several graceful arches, and the same gray and white colors of the main church. 

 Opposite the entry into the sacristy is a small marble altar, its design in white marble is in keeping with the simplicity of the rest of Brunelleschi’s design.  Above the altar, in a smaller dome, is a remarkable blue and gold night sky.  There has been some debate about the date represented by the constellations pictured.  Initially it was thought to represent the day the altar was consecrated in July of 1422.  Newer theories give the date as July 6, 1439, the date of the accord uniting the Eastern and Western branches of Christianity.  Whichever date is correct, the constellations unite the sacristy with the heavens.

The constellations above the altar in the Old Sacristy, Basilica of San Lorenzo

 In the center of the sacristy is the tomb of a Giovanni di Bicci de’Medici and his wife Piccarda Bueri.  It was Giovanni who founded the Medici bank and set the stage for the Medici era in Florence.  This seems like a fitting place for him to rest.

Not part of Brunelleschi’s original design, several elements were later added by Donatello at the request of the Medicis.  These include a series of tondi (round decorations) which lie below the dome.  The 4 in the corners represent the life of Saint John the Evangelist.  

Detail, Donatello’s bronze doors, Old Sacristy

Donatello also designed the two bronze doors that flank the altar.

Apostles to the left, martyrs on the right.

The large reliefs above the doors, with St. Cosmos and St. Damian on the right and St. Stephen and St. Lawrence on the left, are also the work of Donatello.

(Note: There is also a New Sacristy but it is not accessible from inside the church, only from the Medici Chapels)

One of the relief decorations by Donatello above the bronze doors in the Old Sacristy.

The Basilica of San Lorenzo is not the largest or most ornate church in Florence.  It wears no colorful marble facade. But it is stunning in its simplicity and is of great historical and architectual importance. When visiting, don’t miss the literature with a QR code which links to an audio guide. The audio descriptions greatly enhanced any visit.

Entry and Exit to the church is through the cloisters.  This green space, surrounded by a two-story loggia, is a destination all of its own. The lower floor of the loggia surrounds a neatly kept space with low hedges and a big central tree.  Under the arches is a walkway with walls filled with memorials to long ago Florentines.  It’s a moving space embracing both the quiet of the church and views out into the “real world” of Florence.  You can almost hear the rustling robes of those long ago monks as they walk through the cloister.

Cloister, Basilica of San Lorenzo

 Hungry afterwards?  Just outside the front entry is a wonderful lunch spot – the Trattoria San Lorenzo.  A perfect way to end a visit to the church, enjoy a meal, and have time to organize memories of the basilica.

Palazzo Davanzati. A Glimpse into a 14th Century Florentine HOme

A madonna and child tucked away in a painted niche at Palazzo Davanzati.

There are so many museums and historic buildings in Florence that it is all too easy to overlook some of the city’s lesser-known places. One of those is Palazzo Davanzati, the Museo della Casa Fiorentina Antica (Museum of the Antique Florentine House). The Davanzati is one of Florence’s “minor” museums, which has fewer visits by tourists but is much loved by locals. Step inside and be immediately transported back in time as you visit a 14th century home in Florence. 

The palazzo was constructed in the mid-14th century and purchased by the Davanzatis, a family of well-to-do merchants, in 1578.  It is their coat of arms that rests above the entry doors. The family occupied the residence until 1838 when it is said that Bernardo Davanzati ended his life by jumping from the loggia. A tragic ending to the families ownershop. Might his spirit still roam the palazzo?

After the Davanzati’s time, the building was broken up into separate spaces, used for various purposes, and eventually abandoned.  1904 it was acquired by Elia Volpe who restored the property and opened it as a private museum.  Unfortunately, Volpi auctioned off most of the property’s contents, including furnishings and art.  But, importantly, he did not allow the frescoed walls, which had been covered in plaster prior to his restoration efforts, to be removed.  We should all be eternally grateful to Volpi for that decision, because the paintings on the walls are spectacular and one of the best examples of such work from that time period to be preserved. 

Parrot Room, Palazzo Davanzati

The palazzo changed hands after Volpi’s time, eventually purchased by the Italian State in 1951.  Since that time it has undergone a series of preservation efforts. Today, the entry courtyard andnupper floors are open to visitors. The furnishings are not original to the palazzo, but are characteristic of the periods in which it served as a home. The painted rooms have been carefully restored. 

The architecture of the palazzo is remarkable. The facade with its coat of arms and open loggia up top, the large arched entry doors, and the columned courtyard add up to a truly grand entrance. Inside, the courtyard is open to the floors above and a massive stone staircase leads the way to the family quarters. The floor plan is symmetrical with one large reception room on each floor surrounded by dining rooms, bedrooms, and many with unique painted wall decorations.

Detail, Chatelaine de Vergy fresco (photo from Museum of Florence website)

The painted rooms boast colorful and intricate patterns.   I wish I had read the legend of the Chatelaine de Vergy, beautifully depicted in one of the former bedrooms, before my visit.  A tragic tale of love gone wrong, it is beautifully depicted in painted panels around the room.  

And the Sala dei Pappagalli (Parrots Room) is not to be missed!   

Detail, Sala dei Pappagalli

I am always most interested in the way that an old dwelling reflects how life worked during a specific time period. At Palazzo Davanzati, two things that reflected everyday life were the most intriguing to me. One, a well which runs from the top floor kitchen all the way down through the house with an opening on each floor.  What a luxury during medieval times to have such a supply of water. 

The other was the kitchen, located on the top floor.  With a large fireplace, cooking utensils, and sewing tools, the room held the spirit of those long ago Davanzatis (or at least of their household staff).

Near the kitchen was another painted room, the Camera della Impannate (camera means bedroom, impannate were fabric panels uses as window coverings in place of glass). With a small frescoed fireplace and wall paintings featuring animal designs and the Florentine fleur-de-lys, I think this was the coziest of all the bedrooms.

A more recent addition to the museum is a collection of vintage lace.   With more than 2000 lace pieces, along with christening gowns, crocheted baby bonnets, and some lady’s “foundation wear”, it will fascinate anyone interested in fabrics and lace.  Many of the lace pieces are placed in pull out drawers – be sure to open them! 

I thoroughly enjoyed spending an afternoon at the Davanzati. It was uncrowded and a wonderful departure from the bigger museums. It was fascinating to glimpse into life in Florence from the 14th to the 18th century. A visit here is definitely worth adding to your next visit to Florence.

Note: There is a YouTube video of a lecture given by Paola D’Agostino, the director of the Bargello Museum, on the history of Palazzo Davanzati and its collections. A bit academic, but worth a listen to learn more about this important piece of Florentine History and the evolution of the museum’s collections. It can be found on YouTube titled Palazzo Davanzati: A Medieval Time Machine. The information on the lace exhibit is particularly interesting.

A Walk Through Peccioli

Tuscany is dotted with hill towns, including several that are close enough to visit as a day trip from my home base in Lucca.  Barga and Montecatini Alto are easily reachable by train or bus.  Others, including Montecarlo, Collodi, Volterra, and San Gimignano, are an easy car ride away.  I’ve been lucky to spend time in each over the years I’ve been in Lucca but there are still so many hill towns left for me to explore!

 On a recent outing, arranged by The Tuscan Wanderer, we drove through the Valdera, the Valley of the Era River, as we returned to Lucca after a visit to a winery in the town of Terricciola.  This is not a region that I’ve visited before, and it requires a car, so I was pleased to join this group adventure.

Peccioli, viewed from the modern terrace suspended over the edge of town.

The Era River runs between Volterra and Pontedera in the Province of Pisa.  At Pontedera the Era joins the river Arno as it flows towards the sea.  High above the river valley lies the small hilltop village of Peccioli, easily spotted from a distance by the tall bell tower of its church.  How fortunate that this little hill town was one of our destinations! 

Peccioli’s most recognizable landmark, the campanile of the church of San Verano, can be seen from a distance down in the valley.

 Peccioli, like so many of Tuscany’s hill towns, has a Medieval layout and a long history of territorial wars as Pisa and Florence battled for control of the town.  Built in the 11th century around a now ruined castle, Peccioli has an historic center with a central piazza, an ancient church, and a series of narrow streets and small alleys. 

 Like most hill towns, there are great views. In Peccioli the vistas are down to the valley from one side of town and out onto Tuscan hillsides and farmland from the other side.  But much as Peccioli has in common with other Tuscan hill towns, it also has its own unique character.

What gives Peccioli its special flavor is the series of contemporary art installations found throughout town. 

Artists from around the world have created works of art and architecture specifically designed for display in Peccioli.  The contrast between the ancient and the modern is intriguing and lots of fun.

Throughout town are old doors, ancient brick structures, and houses fronted by pretty flowerpots mixed in with the more contemporary art pieces.

 Along an old brick wall are hundreds of photos of eyes, an installation called the Squardo di Peccioli.  The artist, Vittorio Corsini, photographed the eyes of Peccioli’s residents for his work.

A sky bridge connects the historic center with an elevator down to the newer parts of town below in the valley.  Titled Endless Sunset, the work by Patrick Tuttofuoco spirals around the walkway with a ribbon of color.  It turns what might be an ordinary bridge into a work of art.

 A large terrace designed by architect Mario Cuninella juts out from the edge of town, giving long views to the farmland and hills surrounding the town – a classic Tuscan view.

Our time in Piccioli was brief, a short detour on the drive between Terricciola and Lucca.  There are many more art installations to explore, museums to visit, and an historic center with shops and cafes in which to linger.  I am looking forward to a return visit.

Buonamico, A Tuscan Winery

My favorite local wine shop - Vineria Dolce Vita - in Lucca. They have a great selection of local wines. Ricardo, the owner, is a great source of recommendations. Plus I like this philosophy !

 One of the many joys of life in Italy is the abundance of good local products.  That includes everything from fruits and vegetables, olive oil, leather goods, ceramics, fabrics, and art.   And, of course, wine.  When it comes to wines there are plenty of great local wines to choose from. 

 When I say local, I mean really local.  Not just Italian, or even from the nearby Chianti region.  Not even the famous wines of Montalcino and Montepulciano, but wines directly from the hills above Lucca.  In fact, when I first moved to Lucca I went in search of one of my favorite Italian summer wines – a crisp white Gavi.  It was nowhere to be found.  And although I find it easily in the US, none of the Lucchese wine shops carried it.  When I asked why, the proprietor of the shop simply gave me a funny look and said that Gavi came from the area around Torino.  It wasn’t local, or famous, so he didn’t carry it.  OK then.  My search to identify my favorite local wines was on.

 I quickly learned that I could always count on a wine from Montecarlo, a hill town about 30 minutes outside of Lucca.  Both the Montecarlo reds and whites were good and worked well with a variety of dishes.  All the local wine stores and restaurants were well supplied with reasonably priced Montecarlo wines. But really getting to know the local wines takes more than just an occasional glass with dinner out or a random bottle from a local shop. The best way to get to know the local wines is to go straight to the winery for a tasting.

No surprise that the shops in Montecarlo sell Buonamico wines.

Since I don’t have a car in Lucca, it can be difficult for me to get to even the close-by vineyards as many are not reachable by train or bus.  That’s why I jumped at the chance to join an excursion to one of Montecarlo’s top wine producers, Tenuta del Buonamico.  The trip was organized by The Tuscan Wanderer – a local tour company run by Giovanni, with a big assist from his American wife Loreal.  They organize several tours to the vineyards near Lucca (and beyond) as well as non-wine themed excursions. Giovanni provided transportation for our small group to Montecarlo and arranged for us to tour the Buonamico cellars followed by a wine tasting.  They also reserved a table for us at the winery’s elegant Restaurant Syrah, where we enjoyed a special meal with – yes - more wine.  These small group excursions are a great way to get to some of the more out-of-the-way wine producers in the area and Giovanni always makes it fun.

Vines and Olive tress surround the tasting room at Tenuta del Buonamico Winery

We started our day with a quick stop in the hill town of Montecarlo.  Montecarlo is a stop on the Strada del Vino delle Colline Lucchesi e di Montecarlo (the Wine Road of the Lucchese Hills and Montecarlo).  It sits high above the vineyards of Buonamico.  After a stroll through the village, which is home to gorgeous views, an old fortress, and a small central street lined with shops, cafes, and restaurants. we made a quick stop for a coffee before we headed down the hill to the winery. 

 Tenuta del Buonamico was founded in the 1960’s by two close friends and restaurateurs.  The word buonamico means good friend, so the name of the winery is a nod to the original founders.  Today it is the largest of the wine producers in the area, producing some 400,000 bottles per year. They vineyards include the oldest Syrah vines in Tuscany.  Much of Buonamico’s production will make its way to restaurants and shops in the area, but some will be sold for export.  The setting of the winery is pure Tuscany – rolling hectares of vineyards, olive groves, and woodlands with classic views of medieval Montecarlo in the distance.   But the winery itself is quite modern. 

Montecarlo, as seen from Tenuta del Buonamico

 Our Buonamico tour guide provided a great overview of the wine making process. Once harvested from the Buonamico vineyards, the grapes begin fermentation in gleaming steel tanks, designed especially to fit the space of the winery. The process is quite high-tech and the temperature is computer controlled.  Glass tubes along the outside of the tanks provide a glimpse of what is inside – white, red, or rosato (rosato is the Italian word for what we would call rosé).  

 From the steel tanks most of the wines are then placed into oak barrels, never used more than 3 times. The oak barrels then go into the cellar to continue to age.

Not all of the wine goes into the oak barrels. Instead some, about 140,000 bottles worth, is used to make spumante (sparkling) wines.  There is a separate area where the “bubbles” are fermented, using the Charmat method.  As our tour guide explained, this method involves secondary fermentation in a steel tank, whereas in the traditional champagne method the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.  The Charmat method is also used in making Prosecco.  But don’t call these sparkling whites Prosecco! That name is reserved for wines produced in a different and specially designated area.   At Tenuta del Buonamico they make two varieties of Spumante - both a sparkling white and a sparkling rosé. 

 One of the most enchanting parts of the winery tour took us into the cellar named “L’Inferno”.  This room is the oldest cellar on the property and houses both new bottles of wine and the very oldest wines produced here, going back a half-century or so.  There is just something magical about old, dusty wine bottles with their faded labels and old script.  They may no longer be good to drink, but they sure convey a taste of history.

 After our tour of the cellars it was upstairs to the wine shop to taste several wines.  The wines were accompanied by platters of local meats and cheeses, each chosen to pair with a particular wine.  There were also baskets of bread to dip into the estate’s olive oil – fresh and green tasting, it was as luscious as the wines! 

 Among the wines we tasted were an excellent blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sangiovese called Cercatoja. We also tasted Il Fortino, a 100% Syrah wine and their most prestigious offering. Along the way we sampled a crisp Viogne called Mio and – my personal favorite – the Buonamico sparkling Rosato,  IMHO it is the perfect summer wine. Throughout the tasting the winery staff encouraged us to pair the wines with specific meats, cheeses, bread, and even chocolate.  For a non-expert wine taster like myself this was helpful in identifying how wine changes with certain foods tastes – spicy, salty, fatty, sweet. 

 After the tasting we had a chance to purchase both wine and olive oil.  We all went home carrying something!

 Lunch at Restaurant Syrah was the perfect ending to a morning of tasting.  The food here is special and of course the wine is wonderful. Here are just a few lunch photos to tempt you!

We wandered around the grounds after lunch discovering that there are guest rooms which overlook the beautiful landscapes.  There is also a pool and spa on site.  The thoughts of spending a few days here are most enticing!