A Day in Bellagio — Two Parts Italy

Bellagio is the most famous of the towns along the shores of Lake Como. It is considered a touristic “must see” and has more visitors than any of the other towns. Blessed by an enviable location, Bellagio sits at the very spot where the lower lake splits into two branches, Lake Como continuing to the southwest and Lake Lecco to the southeast. The dividing spot at the tip of the peninsula is named the Punta Spartivento, the point where the wind divides. The views of the lake from this spot are hard to beat.

A *Traghetto* (car ferry) is one type of ferry that brings visitors to Bellagio.

With such a prime location, and with frequent boats ferrying visitors between Bellagio and the other mid-lake cities, Bellagio has a little something for everyone – stunning scenery, a flower filled waterfront promenade, beautiful hotels, wine tasting, fine dining, and some great shopping.

There is an upper part of town, along Via Garibaldi, and a lower part along the lake shore. The two are connected by a series of “streets” which are not streets at all but staircases. Salita Serbelloni is the most famous of these staircases. This wide series of steps, lined with shops, galleries and restaurants, leads from Via Garibaldi in the upper portion of Bellagio down to the waterfront. The views are fabulous and the shops have beautiful things, but beware - the often crowded steps and lack of handrails are not ideal for anyone with balance or mobility issues. Sure-footed people seem to bounce up and down the steps with ease, often stopping for photos of the lake view and selfies.

For anyone wanting to avoid the stairs, it is possible to reach the upper portion of Bellagio by walking left when exiting the boat dock, past the pretty Hotel Villa Serbelloni, and up Via Roma where a sidewalk leads more gently up the hill to Via Garibaldi. I like to follow that path, explore the upper part of Bellagio, and then take one of the less crowded staircases at the far end of Via Garibaldi down to the lake front.

Near the north end of Via Garibaldi is Piazza della Chiesa, home to the church of San Giacomo. The stone church, built in the 11th century, is plain on the outside but the inside shines with gold adornments – mosaics, an ornate golden altar, and a shimmering apse. When the bells ring the entire piazza is filled with their beautiful sound.

Piazza della Chiesa has a central fountain, an ancient tower, and a ring of shops, art galleries, and cafes. It’s a great spot to stop for a coffee or to begin some serious Bellagio shopping. My first shopping stop was in the L’Angelo delle Idea, filled with hand made glass pieces and glass Christmas ornaments (always a good souvenir).

Continue down the narrow street to find a variety of shops. If in need of provisions for the kitchen, they can be found at the fruttivendolo (green grocer), the Macellaria e Salumeria (butcher and deli shop), or the shop selling fresh pastas. You’ll also find shops with beautiful silks, good quality handbags, shoes, and jewelry.

My favorite shop, and one of the best for good quality souvenirs, is the Bottega di Legno della Famiglia Tacchi, situated near the top of the Salita Serbelloni. The Tacchi family have been woodworkers since 1855. The shop is is one of the oldest in Bellagio. Here you’ll find beautiful wood housewares (don’t miss the rolling pins!), wooden toys, Christmas ornaments and beautifully carved nativities along with an assortment of other wooden products. Peak into the back room with its workbench and old tools and you can imagine a long ago craftsmen at work.

After exploring Via Garibaldi, a walk down any one of the Salitas leads down to the waterfront. Salita Genazzini (a few minutes walk past Salita Serbelloni) is a good choice. Not only is it narrower and less crowded, but it leads to my favorite spot for a light lunch or a wine tasting, Enoteca Cava Turacciolo.. Inside, the low stone ceilings, wooden tables and rows upon rows of wine bottles provide a moody, cozy atmosphere. In warm weather, small tables sit outside and run up the steps of the salita. The generous platters of meats and cheeses, along with bread and buttery green olives, paired with a choice from over 300 wines, is a perfect Bellagio lunch and a great break before exploring the waterfront areas.

From the base of Salita Genazzi, a left turn leads to Bellagio’s pretty lakeside promenade lined with trees, flowers, and wonderful views. Stop for a minute at the memorial commemorating a visit by President Kennedy in June of 1963. Further on are the gardens of Villa Melzi.

A right turns leads back toward the ferry stops. Bellagio has two – one for the traghetti (car ferries) and one for the passenger ferries. Along the way are more shops and a covered passageway (a nice break from the summer sun) with upscale shops, mostly aimed at tourists, and restaurants.

Bellagio’s ferry docks get crowded in high season - best to arrive well before departure time.

Many tourists make a quick stop in Bellagio and then hurry on to the next village on a hop-on, hop-off boat tour of the lake. I prefer to spend a full day in Bellagio with plenty of time to wander, enjoy the scenery, stop for a coffee or a gelato (maybe both), visit the church, have a leisurely lunch, do some shopping, and take a late ferry back to my home base in Argegno. No matter which plan suits your travel style, Bellagio is definitely a lake town worth visiting.