Two Parts Italy

It’s been hard to miss the news out of England lately, even for those who aren’t typically “royal watchers”. From family drama to sadness about the death of Prince Phillip to a royal birthday, all eyes have been on The Queen. And no matter what we think about the life of royals (or if we think about them at all), we must admit that they have some pretty amazing real estate. All those palaces fit for a queen!

So much talk of England reminds me of the one royal palace I have visited - The Palace of Holyroodhouse in Edinburgh, Scotland. No dusty historical monument, Holyroodhouse is still The Queen’s official residence in Scotland. And though she only spends about one summer week per year there, it remains the site of royal functions and is an important part of the culture of Scotland. The palace anchors one end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, with the Edinburgh Castle at the other end and a world of interesting things along the way between the two.

The entry courtyard to the palace with its two towers at either end.

The good news is that, except for that one week per year when Queen Elizabeth visits, the palace is open to visitors. Well, at least in a non-COVID year it is. While the palace has been closed during the pandemic, it is has recently reopened with limited visitation (tickets must be purchased ahead of time). With that in mind, it seems timely to write about this interesting, beautiful, and historic place.

I visited the Palace at Holyroodhouse as part of a visit to Edinburgh for the Fringe Festival in 2019. I was traveling with two very British friends who said that they’d seen enough royal palaces to last them a lifetime, but I couldn’t pass up the chance to explore the palace, its gardens, and the museum. So while my friends went off to a Fringe Festival show, I headed to the palace.

This carving over the entrance to the quadrangle includes elements of Scotland’s Royal Coat of Arms

The guided tour inside the palace was fascinating and full of historic detail, murderous intrigue, and a healthy dose of royal comings and goings. It was fun to hear details such as “when The Queen visits, this is where she hosts visitors for lunch” or “in this room, the Italian Rizzio, private secretary to Mary, Queen of Scots, was murdered in the year 1566”. Was he Queen Mary’s lover? It is said her jealous husband ordered the murder. A 16th century drama with Scottish and Italian players - who doesn’t love a drama with a 16th century Italian twist?

Also interesting were the furnishings and many artifacts. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed in the interior of the palace, so other than this one view of the entry hall, all my photos are of the exterior. A good collection of interior photos can be found on the website of the Royal Collection Trust.

Such detail in this entryway. But the serious guard says no more photos allowed!

The gardens surrounding the palace are also lovely with long stretches of green lawn, trees, and flowers. Just imagine attending one of The Queen’s garden parties there. I’d have to step up my wardrobe, and add a hat and gloves, to be sure!

A glimpse of the gardens through this old iron gate

One of the most striking features is found outside of the palace - the ruins of Holyrood Abbey. The abbey dates back to the 12th century when it was founded by King David I. The legend is that he founded the abbey in thanks after he survived an accident in the nearby woods.

The abbey has been in ruins since 1768 when the roof collapsed. The parts still standing are beautiful, with stone walls, arches, and carvings. It is a place of quiet and stark grace with a fairytale-like soft light filtering through the missing windows.

After touring the palace and wandering through the ruined abbey and the well-tended gardens there was just enough time left for the small museum displaying art from the royal collection, a look in the gift shop, and lunch in the restaurant on the palace grounds (with some very tasty Scottish meat pie). This was a wonderful way to spend a late summer afternoon and a fascinating glimpse into royal life. With the palace beginning to reopen and long delayed travel planning now beginning, this is definitely a place to include if Scotland is on your travel list.