One Spring Weekend in Lucca

Jazz at Caffè di Simo

Perfect spring weather has finally arrived!  Blue skies, temperatures in the mid to high 70’s, and slight breezes made for a wonderful weekend in Lucca. The weekend was full of activity and the city was filled with blossoms. There is no better time to be in Tuscany than spring.

On Friday, the first of a series of events took place at the Antico Caffè di Simo. The caffè has been closed since 2012, other than for a brief reopening for performances 2 years ago to mark the 100 years since Puccini’s death.  The historic café, with its elegant wood and glass interior, was a favorite “hang-out” for Puccini and his pals and looks untouched from his time.  It’s easy to imagine him sitting here, smoking (of course), and having great discussions with the literati of his time.  

This year a collaboration between the city government, a local cultural group, and the owners of the property will see the caffè opened for music, dance, and literary events on weekends from mid-April until mid-June.  This past Friday, the first performance was jazz with a lovely singer and an outstanding pianist.  At one point a man in the audience, who seemed to know the singer, got up and spontaneously began singing with her.  So much fun to watch!   No tickets needed, the free performances are limited only by the small number of seats in the caffè.  What a great way to start a weekend. Of course spring weather means outdoor aperitivi and the official start of Aperol Spritz season.  No one had to twist my arm to get me to enjoy a post-concert aperitivo on a pretty piazza.

The monthly antiques market is always fun to visit.

Saturday also brought the monthly antiques market, especially enjoyable with the spring weather.  The vendors are nearly always the same, but they bring some new and interesting items each time they set up their booths.  I still daydream about buying some of the bigger pieces of furniture (not practical with my small apartment) but have a hard time resisting other items - especially the vintage linens.

The local Misericordia (the ambulance service) hosted a Saturday fair in Piazza Napoleone. On display were some very old wooden “ambulances” alongside the more modern ones. Need to learn how to use a defibrillator? This was the place to go.

Sunday brought church bells and more great weather - a perfect morning for a coffee with a friend. We weren’t the only ones with that idea, as many of the pastry shops and cafes were filled with people enjoying the chance to sit outside, enjoying the weather and a simple breakfast.

Pasticerria Pinelli has a great spot under the arches on Via Beccheria

After coffee, a wander through town led to Piazza San Michele where the local Puccini Marching Band, complete with baton twirlers, was performing. The youngest twirlers were a delight. Always fun to watch, the music was lively and the crowd that gathered appreciative. (You can find a short video on IG two_parts_italy and on Facebook).

On a different side of the musical spectrum, a one-man band street musician entertained passersby on a street corner. From the look of his harmonipan, you might have expected some Ragtime music. Instead, he was playing a lovely Ave Maria.

It is hard to navigate around big tour groups

Spring weather also means an influx of visitors to Lucca.  Walking through town this weekend I’ve heard German, French, Japanese, and a variety of English accents spoken along with lots of Italian speaking visitors too. I enjoy meeting the visitors that spend some time here, especially blog readers who write me to say they are coming to Lucca.  I’ve met several of them in just the past week – all delightful.

The big tour groups however can be trying.  I admit to already having had a few moments of frustration with groups who take up an entire street, oblivious of people trying to get around them.  I am trying to remember to be patient, but I definitely do some mumbling about this.  An occasional Italian parolaccia (swear word) might creep in, sotto voce (under my breath).   If only I had a euro for each time I had to say “permesso” and squeeze by. Those euros just might overcome the worsening dollar to euro exchange rate!

It’s hard to beat a spring weekend in Lucca. I can’t wait to see what next week brings!

A tucked away garden in Lucca - a favorite spot to sit and read.

The Doors of Umbria

Umbria is full of Medieval hill towns, each with its own character and charm. Every village is unique in character but they all have in common their beautiful architecture. I am drawn to the details of the buildings, especially the many gorgeous doors. Umbria is a good place to find those special details.

I took a lot of photos during a week spent exploring Umbria this past spring and many of them featured doors. Some were worn and neglected, some were beautifully cared for. Many were surrounded by plants and flowers. Here are some of my favorites.

(The windows were pretty spectacular too, but I’ll save those for next week)

Assisi

Bevagna

Orvieto

Panicale

Spello

Do you have some favorite Italian door photos ? I’d be happy to see them on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page!

April in Umbria

One of the Medieval gates leading into the historic center of Bevagna.

Umbria is an Italian region that is entirely inland – it does not touch the Adriatic, the Mediterranean, or the Tyrrhenian seas.  But lacking a seacoast does not mean that Umbria is without dramatic and fascinating landscapes.  The region is full of green valleys, medieval hill towns, olive groves, vineyards, and fields of flowers and legumes.

Even though I live just a short distance away in Tuscany, Umbria was not a region I had explored in any depth.  That changed recently when I spent Easter week based in the small Umbrian town of Bevagna. 

Just outside of Bevagna’s walled city is Le Case, one of two little houses set amid the vines of La Fonte Azienda Agricola.  The setting is quiet, peaceful, and lovely, providing the perfect base for exploring Umbria.  The agriturismo is run by the Trabalza Marinucci family, parents Patrizia and Guido and adult children Giulia and Francesco.  The family also includes 4 outdoor cats, a dog, and two goats.  They (the people, not the goats) are fabulous hosts who also offer wine tastings and aperitivo in the cantina located on the property.  And though I have always considered myself more of a city person, there was something about starting my days in the Umbrian countryside, overlooking the vineyards and surrounding hills, that was just perfect.  I will miss the views from “my” little house in Umbria and the feeling of inner peace that I felt among the vines!

Of course, it is not possible to explore all of Umbria in one visit, and there were many places we did not get to on this week-long trip.  But my friend and I made a good start at getting to know the region and found some unique experiences along the way.  Just one example is the historic Pasquetta (Easter Monday) Ruzzolone, a cheese rolling competition in the town of Panicale (more about that in an upcoming post).

April in Umbria is a time of misty mornings, afternoon showers, and stunning sunsets. 

A foggy morning outside of Bevagna, from La Fonte

April is also when poppies bloom.  They pop up along roadsides, in stone walls, at the edges of vineyards, and sometimes they fill big open fields.  To me, poppies are one of the best parts of spring. Seeing them is always a joyful reminder of the changing season.

Also in bloom in April are fields of yellow blooming rapeseed (used to make canola oil) along with a host of other flowers.  Queen Anne’s lace, lilac, Jupiter’s beard, wild mustard, little violets, wisteria, and tiny white daisies were everywhere.  Pink and white blossoms filled trees and wild figs had just the smallest figs beginning to grow. The hardest part of driving through Umbia was not stopping every mile to take a photo.

In April, the vines are just beginning to sprout leaves. Over just a week’s time we could see them getting bigger.  At the agriturismo they were already at work tending the vines.  La Fonte has several vineyards, some older and some newer vines, and different varieties of grape.  The leaves in the various fields were growing leaves at different rates.  The same was true of all the vineyards as we drove from valley to hillside – growth was very much determined by setting.

I will be writing more about specific towns over time, but today I hope you enjoy a bit of spring time in Umbria.

This little guy was happily picking wild flowers in a little garden in Spello.

Verde Mura Is Where Spring Gardens Begin

Some recurring events serve to mark time, shepherding in a new year or a new season.  One such event in Lucca is the annual spring garden show, Verde Mura. 

Each April, Verde Mura takes place atop the walls that surround Lucca.  Just about anything one wants for a garden – whether garden means a small herb patch, several long rows of vegetables, a bed full of flowers, or a small stand of fruit trees – is available.  

With garden art and assorted crafts on display, there is little need to look elsewhere for spring garden inspiration.

This year - surprise - there were chickens and one very loud rooster !

Readers of this blog may recognize scenes from Verde Mura because I’ve written about it in past years.   But the event always seems to bring something new, not to mention it really does mark the beginning of spring for me, and so each year I go, camera in hand, learning about everything from heirloom beans to new varieties of tulips and daffodils.  

Sadly, I don’t have space for a garden in my tiny Lucca apartment. I can sometimes manage a few potted herbs, but that’s about all.  Despite that, I always come home with at least a gorgeous bunch of flowers, some treats from the food vendors (this year delicious black pepper and almond taralli), and the joy of having spent a few hours on a spring morning up on Lucca’s walls immersed in the colors and scents of the Verde Mura. 

Springtime In the Botanic Garden of Padova

The Orto Botanico (Botanic Garden) of Padova (Padua in English) dates back to the year 1545.  It was created on land owned by Benedictine monks, with the blessing of the Venetian Republic. The purpose for its creation was the study of medicinal herbs  - a pretty important study in times of plague and pestilence, long before the advent of antibiotics and vaccines.  The early botanists sought to identify those plants which promoted health and cured disease (as well as the dangerous ones that could harm). 

 The Orto Botanico continues to be a place of study, international collaboration, and research.  In 1997 it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its contribution to, in the words of UNESCO  “the sciences of botany, medicine, chemistry and pharmacy”.

In addition to being an important scientific site, it is also a place of great beauty.  The enclosed garden, overlooked by the domes of churches on both sides, sits just beyond the Basilica of St. Anthony.  Glimpses of church domes through the garden’s trees add to the enchantment of the setting.

The surrounding brick walls, topped with stone balustrades, enclose meandering paths edged with wild flowers, gated formal gardens, a small stream, a variety of trees, and several pretty fountains. 

Small buildings showcase carnivorous plants and one very ancient tree.  A much larger greenhouse is the center for the study of biodiversity (currently closed to visitors). 

 On the day I visited (in early April) the garden was blooming with spring flowers.  Wisteria, both purple and white varieties, clung to the brick walls.  The Irises were just beginning to bloom and the scent of lilacs was in the air. 

 The Orto Botanico is an oasis of color and fragrance in the middle of Padova. What a great way to spend a spring afternoon!