Two Parts Italy

A cold and rainy March gave way to an April with very erratic weather in northern Italy. Some days felt very much like spring, a couple of days brought summer temperatures, and other days were unseasonably cold. But that didn’t stop spring produce from appearing in the markets, providing lots of inspiration for early spring cooking. I spent some time earlier this month in Padova, a city with an exceptionally good food market. Fortunately, I had a sunny day perfect for exploring the market. A morning spent shopping here is, to me at least, every bit as wonderful as visiting the major attractions of the city.

The Palazzo della Ragione provides a beautiful and historic backdrop for Padova’s market

Part of the market takes place outdoors in front of the beautiful Palazzo della Ragione where a piazza full of stalls sell the freshest, most beautiful produce. It would be hard to ask for a better setting than this historic spot.

In April the spring vegetables take center stage. The colorful choices start with a whole palette of shades of green. Fat green asparagus sit alongside the white variety, playing off the thin deep green shoots of the nearby agretti and bags of shelled peas.

The leeks are pale with green tops while the fresh pea pods are a vibrant shade of green. There are green with a yellow tinge fava beans, perfect to snack on paired with a bit of salty cheese. And broad, flat green beans which remind me of the ones my Italian grandfather grew in his New York backyard.

For contrast, yellow and red peppers provide some brilliant color alongside pale white new onions and golden brown new potatoes.

Purple tinged artichokes are piled up to be sold whole or already trimmed and either cut in half or pared down to just the heart (why can’t I find these in Lucca?).

The strawberries are mouthwatering – they were bright red, sweet, and delicious.

The second half of the market takes place indoors underneath the Palazzo della Ragione.

Here you’ll find carnivore heaven with the most wonderful selection of meats. The Macellai (butchers) display everything from simple cuts to prepared rolled and stuffed roasts of beef, chicken, guinea fowl, and turkey. Prepared polpette (meatballs) too. The salumeria (delis) have salami, prosciutto, bresaola, and other meats for slicing.

The Pescivendoli (fishmongers) sell whole fish, fillets, big piovra (octopus), sardines and anchovies, shrimp, and lots of shellfish varieties. Whipped baccala (a specialy of the Venetian area) is available by the scoopful.

And the formaggi (cheeses)! The scent is swoon-worthy and the choices seemingly endless.

Other stalls display olives, cicchetti (those small Venetian style bites of goodness), fresh pasta, grains, spices, honey, and a wide selection of prepared foods. The flower stall was colorful and featured spring tulips.

Everytime I visit this market I begin to think that I should move to Padova - it really is a cook’s dream. My next visit will have to be longer and in an apartment with a kitchen! If the springtime market is this wonderful, just imagine what summer will bring!