Under Italian Skies

Another week of August vacation, another photo post. This week, Italian skies.

It is hard to describe what is so special about the sky in Italy. There is just some combination of color, light, and connection to land, sea, or city that work in harmony. No matter the season or whether the skies are bright blue, filled with soft clouds, or dark and stormy, they are always beautiful. And the sky at sunset, that’s simply magic! I feel so fortunate to be living under Italian skies and I can hardly wait to return to Lucca in late August.

A storm brewing in Volterra

A clear summer day’s sky in Lerici

An early spring sky in Sant’Andrea di Compito

Wispy clouds in Bagnone

Dramatic skies over Pisa

The sky in Lucca makes the perfect back drop for sculpture.

This sky along the River Arno in Florence almost looks like a painting.

Sunset in the Val d’Orcia turns the sky a beautiful shade of pink.

Dusk along the wall in Lucca.

Laundry Day in Italy

When I am in the United States I rarely give much thought to laundry. From hamper to washing machine and on to dryer it’s an easy, uncomplicated task. Not so when I am in Italy. First, I need to be sure that no other appliance is in use when I run the washing machine. The electric circuits simply can’t handle the washing machine running at the same time as the oven, dishwasher, or hair dryer. I learned this the hard way when I once tried to blow dry my hair while doing a load of laundry. Picture me taking out the power in mine plus several adjoining apartments. Lesson learned!

Laundry or art ?

Next, drying times can be much longer in humid Italy (especially compared to my former home in the dry climate of New Mexico). In the winter, hanging things near (or over) the radiators speeds things up. But when the weather is warm and damp, and heat not in use, a pair of jeans can take a long time to dry. It helps to have access to “solar powered” drying (ie, sunshine on a terrace or a window line).

In a country with few clothes dryers, laundry hanging from a window line is a common sight. It always makes me smile.

Next, there are space concerns. My apartment in Lucca is small with no outdoor space. And being on the ground floor means that I don’t have a window high above the street with a clothes line. Setting up a drying rack inside takes up a lot of space and is only big enough for some clothes or towels, and not many at any one time. Hanging sheets to dry is nearly impossible. I now take my bed linens to the lavanderia where they wash, dry, press, and fold them. They return to me wrapped in paper and soft as can be. A touch extravagant but worth it!

Laundry day in the Cinque Terre.

Clothes and linen drying outside is a common sight in Italy (although some historic districts ban this practice). To me, there is something delightful about seeing colorful laundry hung up to dry on a line. It is quintessentially Italian. I often make up theories about the residents of a building based on their laundry - the orange worker’s pants, the individually hung socks, the unabashedly public hanging of “tighty whiteys”, the pretty dresses, the colorful linens, the baby clothes. They all say something about the lives if the people doing the wash. Over the past year I’ve even seen rows of blue surgical masks hung out to dry. Somehow all of these scenes seem like art, or prayer flags, to me.

I’m spending a couple of months visiting my family in the United States right now. I miss those neatly pressed and folded sheets from the lavanderia and the sight of laundry hanging from balconies. I wonder what my neighbors would think if I hung my laundry from my window here in Albuquerque? No doubt the HOA would not be amused.

Color coordinated laundry

Italian Coffee Part Two : La Moka

 Many objects are representative of Italian design – the Fiat Cinquecento, the Ferrari, the fashions of Armani, the shoes of Ferragamo.  But perhaps nothing is more emblematic of Italian design than the simple Moka Express coffee pot.  

Almost every Italian home has at least one Moka.  The original design is easily recognizable by its octagonal shape and the “omino con i baffi” (little man with the mustache) that appears on every pot.  Perhaps the true measure of “Italian-ness” lies in the number of Moka pots someone owns.  I have 5, 3 in my Italian apartment and 2 in my other home in New Mexico.

A Moka Express has several parts – a lower base for water (caldaia), a funnel / filter basket for the ground coffee (filtro imbuto), a gasket / seal (guarnizione), and an upper chamber to collect the brewed coffee (bricco).  They come in a variety to sizes, mostly commonly from 3 – 12 cups but there are Moka pots as large as 50 cups.  Don’t be fooled by those cup sizes though – they represent espresso cups (about 2 ounces each) and not an American style 6-8 ounce cup.   My most used Moka, labeled 3 cups, makes one nice sized mug or two smaller cups of coffee (about 6 ounces total).  That explains why I have several – brewing coffee for company means I usually need to brew more than one pot at a time. 

The coffee “bar” in my New Mexico condo.

 Alfonso Bialetti, an Italian machinist and tool maker, designed the Moka in 1933 and founded Bialetti Industries to produce it.  It was first sold in the weekly markets of the Piedmont region in northern Italy. Alfonso’s son Renato took over following World War II.  It was Renato who added the mustachioed man, expanded marketing, and made the Moka the symbol of Italian coffee culture that is today.  It is no exaggeration to say the Renato lived and died thinking of the Moka.  When he died, at age 93, his ashes were placed in an oversized Moka pot.  Really! Photographic proof below.

Renato Bialetti’s funeral. He must have had quite the sense of humor to have his ashes placed in a Moka Express shaped urn!

 In recent years newer home machines, using pre-filled coffee capsules, have become more popular, decreasing sales of the traditional Moka.  There were fears that the Moka would become obsolete. However, if you ask me, those “modern” machines cannot brew coffee that compares with the flavor of Moka brewed coffee (not to mention that a Moka produces no waste other than coffee grounds which can be composted). The trend may be reversing though, sales of the traditional Moka are on the rise again.  Sometimes the traditional methods really are best.

To brew the best coffee in a Moka, there are some things to keep in mind: The water chamber is filled just up to the pressure valve, ideally with room temperature filtered water.  Better water = better coffee. Using room temperature rather than cold water decreases the brewing time and the exposure of the grounds to heat, making for a better brew.  Some sources recommend using pre-heated water in the water chamber, but I find that doing so makes the chamber too hot to handle when starting my coffee.

It’s important to loosely fill the filter basket and not tamp down the grounds

The ground coffee is spooned loosely into the filter basket and, unlike what the barista does in the bar, never packed down.  The Moka is not a professional style espresso maker (it really isn’t espresso at all, just a close relative). The steam pressure in a Moka is much less than in a true espresso machine.  Less steam pressure requires a less dense fill of coffee, otherwise the steam never makes it through the grounds.  When filling the filter basket it is also important to make sure that there are no grounds on the top edge which would prevent a good seal.

Just like better water makes better coffee, the same is true for better beans.  Though everyone’s taste in coffee intensity and flavor varies, the grind should always be designed for a Moka.  I find that Lavazza makes two good choices – Lavazza Gold and Lavazza Caffe` Espresso (both also available in the US and on-line). In Italy, I often buy fresh ground coffee from a local shop. There are many choices, experimenting to find the perfect bean is part of the fun.  I also find that the coffee tastes better when the ground coffee is stored in an air tight container at room temperature, rather than in the refrigerator, and used up fairly quickly.

To brew the coffee, the Moka is placed over a low flame on a gas stove.  The flame should never extend beyond the edges of the pot.  Low and slow makes the perfect cup of coffee.  Yes, it takes longer than a Nespresso machine but the wait is worth it. As the coffee brews, the sound changes from barely audible to a louder bubble.  As soon the louder bubble starts, turn off the flame and allow the brewing to finish off the heat.  Too much “cooking” isn’t good for flavor. Be careful when handling the pot after brewing - the handle is heat proof but accidentally touching the metal is a painful experience!

Hot milk and a battery operated whisk - on my way to a cappuccino.

 Something I didn’t know, but learned when doing some research for this post, is that before serving the coffee that has collected in the upper chamber should be stirred.  This blends the first bit of coffee with what comes later, evening out the taste.  Good tip.

While the Moka does not make a true espresso, it makes a nice “almost cappuccino” with the addition of some hot, frothed milk. The milk can be heated on the stovetop in a specially designed stainless cup or in a microwave. A battery operated whisk does a good job of frothing the milk. Low fat works best!

 It’s also important to know how to care for the Moka. New pots need to be “seasoned” by brewing, and discarding, 2 pots of coffee.  This eliminates any metallic taste or residue left over from manufacture.   

The inside of the aluminum pots should never be washed with soap.  Some hot water and a wipe will suffice.  A bit of coffee oil will collect and that’s ok – better than coffee that tastes of soap!   And never, ever put a Moka in the dishwasher. After cleaning, all parts of the Moka should be dried well. Ideally, the pot is stored in pieces rather than completely sealed to prevent growth of “fuzzy stuff” in the lower chamber.

 The rubber seals will fail over time and need to be replaced.  Seals are sold separately and have to match the size of the Moka.  Forgetting the pot on the heat will melt the seal and, if left on the heat while empty for too long, can ruin the pot itself.  Can you guess how I learned this? 

Newer versions of the Moka exist – a stainless steel one, an electric model, and ones for induction stove tops.   I’m partial to the original aluminum 3 and 6 cup models with the omino con I baffi used on a gas burner. A bit old fashioned, but really satisfying to use. In fact, I think I will go brew some right now.   

Italian Coffee (Part One)

If you ask an American to name the Italian national drink, they will likely answer “wine”, but they’d be wrong. In Italy, the national drink is coffee - un caffe` - generally meaning an espresso. Coffee wasn’t invented here, but it just may have been the Italians who perfected it. Coffee is an important part of daily life, almost a ritual. Most Italians drink at least 1 cup a day (for breakfast). But it is not uncommon to add a mid-morning, after lunch, mid-afternoon, and even an after dinner or late night cup. There certainly are Italians who don’t drink coffee, but they are a definite minority.

I wasn’t much of a coffee drinker before I started visiting Italy. I grew up with an Irish mother and we drank a lot of tea. The occasional cup of coffee she made generally meant instant Sanka. I was not impressed. Later, as a nurse working night shifts, coffee became a necessity. I brought a thermos of it to work every night. I experimented with drip coffee, percolated coffee, and cold brew concentrate mixed with boiling water. To each I added lots of milk and sugar. I drank it, it helped get me though those night shifts, but I still wasn't a big fan. I didn’t love it.

Italian coffees - a cappuccino (left) and a macchiato (right)

And then I came to Italy. My first Italian coffee was served on the shores of Lake Como during breakfast at a small family run inn. “Cosa prende signora”, asked the server, “un caffe` latte”? I was presented with a pot of freshly brewed espresso and a second pot of steamed milk. Whether it was the fabulous coffee, the beautiful service, the musical sound of the Italian language, or the views of the lake doesn’t really matter. I was hooked. Many things kept me excited about coming back to Italy after that trip and coffee was definitely one of them.

A caffe` latte, hot milk and a shot of espresso - in this version you mix it yourself

Now that I live in Italy, I can indulge my love of Italian coffee on a daily basis. Standing at the bar for a quick morning coffee is the Italian way. It’s practically medicinal and it costs less (around 1.20 Euro) if you stand rather than sit at a table. But for me, sitting at a table in a cafe, snug inside in winter or outdoors with a glorious view of a piazza in warmer weather, is one of the joys of life in Italy. I’ll pay a little more for that joy. It’s one of the things I’ve missed most during the past year when bars and cafes were closed for long stretches of time due to COVID restrictions. Anytime there was a pause in the lockdown you could find me at an outside table in a bar or cafe ordering a coffee. What a joy that the cafes have now reopened!

And what exactly does one order ? Well, certainly not a half-caff, skinny latte! In fact, don’t ask for a “latte” at all as that will get you just a cup of milk.

Italian coffee drinks can be divided into 3 categories: straight coffee, coffees with varying amounts of milk, or coffees with an added punch from alcohol.

In Italy, ask for un caffe` and you will get a shot of espresso in a tiny cup. A caffe` ristretto is even smaller, an espresso brewed with half as much water. A caffe` lungo is brewed with extra water and a caffe` doppia is simply a double shot of espresso (that will get you going!). None of these drinks come with milk. A caffe` Americano is a bit different - rather than varying the amount of water used to brew the espresso, an Americano is a normally brewed shot of espresso with hot water added after brewing.

A cappuccino is a perfect breakfast coffee

Espresso drinks often have milk added, either steamed or as a topping of frothy goodness (the froth is la schiuma) or some of each. For the most milk, order a caffe` latte which has one shot of espresso and lots of milk (more milk than espresso). This is Italian coffee for beginners. My grandchildren, then ages 10 and 13, started each day with one when they visited me. “Nana”, the 10 year old would say, “I’m not awake yet. I need my coffee”.

Caffe` shakerato con latte - my favorite summertime coffee drink. In Lucca the best ones are found at Manon Lescaut in Piazza Cittadella.

A cappuccino is espresso with some streamed milk topped with a layer of schiuma - about equal parts of each - served in a medium size cup. Italians typically only drink cappuccino in the mornings, as milk is considered not compatible with digestion after meals later in the day. Ordering a cappuccino in the afternoon is possible but definitely brands you as a straniero (foreigner).

In summer a cold coffee with milk (a caffe` shakerato con latte) is a treat !

Later in the day, if you aren’t up for a straight espresso, try a caffe` macchiato. This drink is a shot of espresso with just a splash of milk. I’ve found a lot of variation in the preparation of macchiato. Some have just the tiniest spot of milk, others have milk equivalent to about half the volume of the espresso, still others serve the milk on the side. After living here for a couple of years I have acquired a taste for a macchiato - but I had to work at it.

The Ponce Livornese, made with espresso and rum, is a type of caffe` corretto unique to the town of Livorno

Then there is the caffe` corretto, or “corrected” coffee. Mostly served as an after dinner or evening drink, this is espresso laced with a small amount of grappa, sambuca, or rum. It’s a good nighttime choice, as the caffeine and alcohol balance each other and soften that caffeine buzz.

What happens when it is not possible to go out for an espresso drink at a bar or cafe? Good coffee can be brewed at home, but usually does not result in a true espresso as few homes have the needed equipment. One alternative is a machine that uses coffee in a pod (a Nespresso type machine) but it just isn’t the same. A better alternative for home brewed coffee exists - the Moka Express pot - more about that in Italian Coffee Part 2.

Prosciutto and Asparagus Bundles Marcella Style

Marcella Hazan introduced me, and many Americans, to authentic Italian recipes. Her food, and the details she described about Italian cuisine, were part of what first brought me to Italy in search of the flavors and ingredients in her dishes. (For more on her story, here is a link to a post from the summer of 2018: https://www.twopartsitaly.com/blog/2018/8/8/cooking-with-marcella).

On that first trip I marveled at the fresh produce in the markets, the meats, the cheeses, the variety of fresh pasta, and the delicious meals I had in Florence, Venice, and along the shores of Lake Como. And I took notes!

Returning home, I began a journey to recreate all those flavors with the best ingredients I could find, often guided by one of Marcella’s cookbooks. Now that I live most of the year in Italy (something I never even dreamed of back then) I have access to those wonderful ingredients and I enjoy making these recipes even more.

When spring arrives in Italy so does asparagus season. Heading into summer, the markets in Tuscany have gorgeous bright green bundles of asparagus - I try to pick the nice fat ones which I prefer to the more slender stalks.

When the asparagus appears, I know that it is time to make one of my favorite Marcella recipes - Involtini di Asparagi e Prosciutto (originally published in her book More Classic Italian Cooking). The flavors of fresh asparagus, slightly salty prosciutto, fontina cheese and a generous amount of butter combine to make a flavorful dish perfect for a spring or early summer brunch or luncheon.

3 basic ingredients - prosciutto, fontina cheese, fresh asparagus. Just add some butter !

The prosciutto is topped with the asparagus, cheese, and butter before rolling into a tight bundle.

The preparation is easy and involves only 4 ingredients. The asparagus is cooked ever so briefly in boiling water (my non-Marcella shortcut is to wrap the spears in a wet paper towel and microwave for 90 seconds or so) and then flash cooled in cold water. 3 spears are placed across a slice of prosciutto, topped with slices of fontina, dabbed with butter, and rolled up tight.

Another couple of cheese slices are placed on top, with a bit more butter (ok, maybe more than a bit), and baked until the cheese is melted and golden, a quick 15 - 20 minutes. They look beautiful on a platter drizzled with the flavorful pan drippings. For exact measurements, just google “Marcella’s Asparagus Prosciutto Bundles” and the recipe will pop up - or better yet get a copy of the cookbook which is chock full of wonderful recipes.

Ready to bake !

A couple of keys: Medium to large asparagus are best, and that first cooking in boiling water is just until they begin to soften. If overcooked they will get mushy in the oven. It’s also important to use a good quality, soft prosciutto. If the prosciutto is leathery to begin with it will become more so when baked and that’s not good (the same is true if baked too long). In Italy I buy “prosciutto di Parma morbida” (morbida means soft). My Italian butcher tells me that one end of the prosciutto is actually softer than the other, and so that is what he slices for me. Who knew? In the US, I find that Costco actually has a nice, fairly soft, thinly sliced imported prosciutto that works quite well (brand name Citterio). If the slices are small I overlap two for each bundle so that the prosciutto base is wide enough to just let the tips and ends of the asparagus spears stick out.

These involtini make a wonderful brunch / lunch when paired with a poached egg or a salad. For dinner, a side of rice goes nicely.

Grazie Marcella !

Involtini di asparagi e prosciutto - flavorful rolls of prosciutto filled with asparagus and fontina cheese.