Two Parts Italy

One of the best things to do in Paris is to simply wander the neighborhoods, each of which has its own unique atmosphere and history. And while there are museums, churches, galleries, and famous sights to see in each neighborhood, there is also joy to be found in skipping all of those in favor of a slow amble, basically aimless, just to get a feel for an area. And that is pretty much what I did on a day of wandering in Paris.

One of the many bridges across the Seine. This one connects the Île de la Cité with the Latin Quarter on the Left Bank.

On a visit of just a few days there are hard choices to be made. It simply isn’t possible to see all of Paris’s fascinating neighborhoods in a day or two. On this trip the focus was the Left Bank – the Latin Quarter, St. Germain des Pres, and the area around Rue Cler.

My day of wandering the Left Bank started near Notre Dame, crossing the Pont au Double to arrive on the Left Bank.

At the end of the bridge lie the Bouquinistes, the iconic green stalls that line this part of the Seine. They are full of antique books, posters, and souvenirs. Browsing these stalls feels like time travel, with magazine covers from many years ago and lots of old posters. A stop at the Bouquinistes is an essential part of any Parisian experience.

From the Bouquinistes it is a short walk to Shakespeare and Company, the English language bookstore that has been in this location since 1951. The shop began at an earlier location in 1919 with a pause only during WWII. It is a Paris institution, attracting locals and visitors alike. I love the green of the building and matching green of the interesting fountain just in front. Imagine all the famous writers, and all the English language readers, who have passed through those doors!

From there, a walk through the Latin Quarter evokes the spirit of an older Paris, before the renovations that brought wide boulevards and blocks of stately homes to other parts of the city. There are small cobblestoned alleys filled with cafes and bars, many host students from the nearby Sorbonne. There are markets, shops, and restaurants to be found along the winding streets.

Passing by the churches and museums, we just strolled, soaking up the atmosphere of a unique neighborhood, visiting a Christmas market, peeking in windows, and stopping for lunch at a small cafe.

After lunch, more walking.

At the edge of the Latin Quarter, before entering the St. Germain des Prés district, the wide boulevards reappear near the Place Saint-Michel with its imposing monument.

Build in 1860, the monument features a sculpture of Saint Michael the Archangel standing triumphantly over the devil. Below, a fountain with water cascading down several steps to the level of the plaza. On the day I visited, in mid-December, there was a wonderful Christmas market filling the square.

St. Germain des Prés, view to the magnificent altar

Next up, the St. Germain des Prés neighborhood. This is a wonderful area to explore with its high-end shops, markets, galleries, and antique stores. This is where the Luxembourg gardens and Le Bon Marche department store are located. St. Germain des Prés is also home to famous cafes such as Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore, once the haunts of writers and artists. Sip a coffee or a glass of wine outside under the awning and imagine Hemingway or Picasso sitting beside you. But not on this trip - it was much too cold to sit outside!

The neighborhood gets its name from the Abbey of St. Germain des Prés. The Abbey is more than 1000 years old. The exterior is wonderful – with flying buttresses and a medieval bell tower. And though my goal was to just wander, I couldn’t resist a chance to stop in to the abbey. The interior seems to be several different churches in one due to many modifications over the years. The long nave is flanked with arched columns and topped with a blue, star-filled ceiling. There are sculptures and frescoes, colorful stained-glass windows, a beautiful choir space, side chapels, and candles flickering. And, on this very cold day, there were grates in the floor blowing warm air into the church. No surprise, visitors seemed to linger atop those grates!

We left the cathedral as the afternoon light was waning and the temperatures falling, the perfect time to hop on the batobus and return to the our hotel, just off Rue Cler. Rue Cler is in the 7th Arrondissement, where the Eiffel Tower is located.

I love to stay in this part of Paris when I visit for many reasons – seeing the Eiffel tower all lit up at night as I walk through the neighborhood, the fabulous restaurants, cafes, and shops that line Rue Cler and the surrounding streets, the small and charming Hotel Champs du Mars, the graceful architecture of the buildings, and the walkability of the neighborhood.

Rue Cler itself is a pedestrian-mostly market street. There are stalls and shops selling fresh produce and take-away meals, gorgeous French cheeses in all shapes and sizes, flowers, meats, fish, chocolates, pastries, crepes, ethnic foods. There are also small cafes and restaurants perfect for a morning croissant or a meal.

Nearby are streets full of elegant apartments with pretty balconies, small churches, shops, and fabulous restaurants. And, just a short walk away, is the Eiffel Tower, the wonderful park that surrounds it, and a stop for the Batobus on the river.

It’s hard to talk about Paris without mentioning the food. We ate most breakfasts and dinners in the Rue Cler neighborhood. As we were celebrating my friend’s birthday, we decided to splurge on dinner at the classic restaurant La Fontaine de Mars on nearby Rue Saint-Dominique, between Rue Cler and the Eiffel Tower. Definitely worth the splurge, everything was wonderful from the red and white checkered table cloths, to the friendly waiters, to a great wine selection, and fabulous food. My dish of scallops on a bed of leeks with a butter vanilla sauce was spectacular. This was a birthday celebration to remember! We also found a great wine bistro nearby, La Campanella Brasserie. Best French Onion Soup ever!

I am not sure when I will get back to Paris again but I definitely want to plan a return trip. I need a chance to explore the Right Bank neighborhoods. And I definitely need another bowl of onion soup!