Two Parts Italy

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Air Travel in the Age of COVID-19

Toto, we’re not in Italy anymore. The anything-but-green landscape approaching New Mexico

I’m writing this post from New Mexico, where I am spending two weeks of self-isolation after arriving from Italy in early July. My travel from Italy to the U.S. took me from Firenze (Florence) to Frankfurt on Air Dolomiti, a regional airline owned by Lufthansa. From Frankfurt it was on to Washington, D.C., on United Airlines. After an overnight stay in Washington, I flew first to Houston and then, finally, to Albuquerque, where my family lives.

Four flights, four airports, two days. Nothing compared to the transatlantic crossing my great-grandfather took from Naples to New York in the late 1800s, but still a stressful journey in the age of COVID-19. So, what is it like traveling by plane these days? Definitely different than previous travel; more stressful, more uncertain. The key words are patience, flexibility, and caution.

Social distancing markers in the Florence, Italy, airport July 2020

First, patience. Everyone’s travel plans have been upended by the COVID-19 emergency. A number of people living, or visiting for an extended period, in Lucca (where I live) decided to head home for the duration of the problem (little did we know at that time how long a period that would be). Canadians, Americans, Australians, Brits. They left early on, in March. Understandable. I considered a return then but decided to stay in Italy for a number of reasons. One being that I actually felt safest staying put. The government and public response were impressive, the health care in Italy is good, I have lots of support there, and it seemed the safest course to simply shelter in place. Also, hearing about the challenges of travel, with large numbers of people trying to return to their home countries creating long lines and chaos at airports, I definitely did not want to fly when planes were packed and the lines in airports created perfect breeding grounds for the virus. I also feared bringing the virus with me, as there was little in the United States at that point. Little did I know how that would change! Patience became necessary because after that first wave of people left Italy for their home countries, the flights stopped and the opportunity to fly to the U.S. evaporated. Not knowing when (or if) I would be able to return to the U.S. meant developing a lot of patience - not my strength at all!

A nearly deserted Frankfurt airport felt very eerie.

Patience was even more important when my first three flight reservations were canceled. The cancellations were due to the lack of flights within Europe. Because there were no direct flights from Italy to the U.S. at that time, I had to first get to Frankfurt and until early July those flights weren’t happening. In fact the airports in Pisa and Firenze were mostly closed until mid-June. My final reservation, on July 2, coincided with the resumption of many flights within Europe and provided the first opportunity to fly. Patience is also needed to adapt to the changes in boarding procedures and limitations on carry-on items. As of July1, Italy had banned all use of the overhead compartments so as to reduce people standing in the aisles and make boarding safer and faster. This meant being limited to only one item that has to fit under the seat. And nothing with wheels! Even my small “underseater” suitcase was not allowed. There was a lot of anxiety in checking items that I’d normally carry aboard and having just the absolute essentials in my shoulder bag (computer, medications, etc) - and it sure made for a heavy shoulder bag! (this ban is set to end by late July according to the most recent decisions). And while Germany has not banned the use of overheads, they also would allow only one carry-on item per passenger. Luckily, my checked luggage arrived without any delays.

Next, flexibility. The normal routes for travel don’t exist at this time. This is especially true to the U.S. where only about 10 airports nationwide are accepting flights arriving from overseas and where many domestic flights have also been suspended. Forget about preferred cities for layovers, efficient flights that get you home in the shortest time possible, lots of choices about routes, and sometimes even your preferred airline. Each of my three canceled itineraries had different routes, included different partner airlines, and had long travel times. In all, it took double my usual travel time to get to New Mexico. Prepare to be patient when landing too - there are extra health forms to be filled out (handed out in fight), temperatures to be taken, and questions answered on arrival. I was impressed with the patience of the passengers and airport staff.

Restaurants with sit-down dining remain mostly closed, this one in Houston.

Flexibility and patience together help to deal with the realities of current travel in terms of airport and onboard services. Leaving Florence on an early flight, there were few services open in the airport. If you see an open coffee shop, don’t pass it up - there likely isn’t another one! And you may not find an open one at all. I was glad I had a protein bar with me. In Frankfurt, the airport felt nearly deserted until I got to the gate. There were a few more places open, all for take away, no tables available. Once on board, service was also limited. Early in the flight everyone was given a bottle of water. There was no coffee or tea served, no alcohol (that may have changed by the time you read this as the flight attendants said they expected both to return “any time now'“). Meal service was fairly normal.

Caution.There are clearly risks associated with flying but with care they can be minimized. Departing Florence, temperatures were measured and we passed through what looked like a scanner but hit us with a mist. I’m assuming this was a disinfectant of some sort. Masks must be worn and changed every four hours. Never have I seen so many people wiping down their seats, tray tables, arm rests, TV monitors, seat belts - a good strategy. Disinfectant wipes were handed out as we boarded each flight. Social distancing is a goal, but not an in-flight reality, unfortunately. My flight from Florence to Frankfurt was only half full and nearly everyone had an empty seat next to them, which felt reassuring. Not so on the transatlantic leg, which was quite full. But everyone wore their masks except when eating. The biggest caution is about personal responsibility - no one with even the slightest hint of illness, or with a known exposure, should board an airplane.

One week into my self-quarantine I am feeling well, keeping busy, and getting anxious to be able to hug my grandkids (with masks on!). Now, I hope I am able to return to Italy as planned in September! -post by Joanne

Come September, I hope to be back home in Lucca! Meanwhile, I will stay vigilant while enjoying my family and friends in New Mexico.