Pontremoli: A Walk, A Castle, and Prehistoric Rock Carvings

The Lunigiana region reaches from the northern part of Tuscany into Liguria, all the way to the coast. It is a unique area, quite different from the classic images of Italy. No grand cathedrals, huge museums, or rolling vineyards here. The region is mountainous, forested, and crossed by rivers. There are no large cities to be found, instead there are small medieval hamlets, many with ancient towers and castles. Some of the castles lie in ruins, complete or partial, but a few are remarkably well preserved.

Castello del Piagnaro, Pontremoli

One such castle is the Castello del Piagnaro in the town of Pontremoli. The castle dates from the 10th century, with cycles of expansion, destruction, and rebuilding over the ensuing centuries. Some components of the Castello have been lost to time, a drawbridge for example, and some elements are as new as the 15th century tower (if something that old can really be called new).

Today the restored castle compound stands guard high above Pontremoli and welcomes visitors to both the castle interior and the Museum of the Stele Statues of the Lunigiana which is housed within its ancient walls.

Half the joy of seeing the castle is the walk to it from the historic center of Pontremoli. The walk begins from the small main street and winds up even smaller alleys to the castle. Along the way are small shops, medieval buildings, arches, gates, views, and the occasional cat.

This sign marks a steep little alley that leads to the castle.

The walk winds uphill, but it is not terribly steep. For a less inspiring, but less strenuous, way to the castle take the elevator from Porta Parma at the north end of town directly to the castle grounds. I found the hike up to be definitely worth the effort. With stops along the way to admire the ancient buildings, chat with local residents, and enjoy the views to the town below it was a walk I would not have missed!

There is a ticket office just inside the castle gates where a combined ticket for the museum and castle can be purchased for 7 euro (4 euro for those over 65). From the ticket office you can enter the museum directly or cross to the castle entrance.

The museum is fascinating. Stele (not to be confused with the similar Italian word stelle which has a different meaning all together) are prehistoric carvings, representing human figures, found throughout the Lunigiana region. They have been housed in the castle museum since 1975 and are truly a treasure.

Both male and female figures are represented. The males seem to be warriors, armed with knives. The women, bare breasted, are adorned with necklaces. The dark rooms and dramatic lighting show the pieces off perfectly.

After the stele, it is time to wander through the castle. And I do mean wander - there are many rooms, courtyards, staircases, and roof top terraces to explore. Amazingly, there were no guards or “keep out” signs to be found, just freedom to explore and to wonder what life must have been like for the people who occupied this building over the centuries.

Perched high up on this hill, the castle offers spectacular views down the hill to the city and river below. Walking back down to the village, along a different small alley than on the way up, provides for another scenic walk through the oldest portions of Pontremoli.

A visit to Pontremoli, and a hike up to the castle, provides a wonderful contrast to the more touristed places in Tuscany and Liguria. It’s a special experience!

Levanto: The Perfect Base for Exploring the Cinque Terre

I am still enjoying my August break, so I’m posting mostly photos again this week, all from the town of Levanto, my favorite base for exploring the Cinque Terre.

The harbor at Levanto. Ferries to the Cinque Terre and Portovenere call here.

Levanto is the first town just to the north of the Cinque Terre. It has many things in common with the 5 villages: beautiful views, a charming pedestrian center, good restaurants, a ferry dock with connections to the Cinque Terre villages.

Levanto (the locals pronounce it with the accent on the first syllable Lay-vanto) also has fewer crowds, lower prices, and a great stretch of sandy beach. There are gorgeous villas and gardens, an historic old town with winding lanes, a medieval loggia, ancient churches, and an easy hike to an old castle.

Although it is a definitely a beach town, somehow it feels more like a community, a place to settle in and relax. For me, this is in part because of the friendly welcome I always find at the charming B&B A Durmì where sisters Chiara and Elisa make you feel like part of their family. They have great rooms, the prettiest courtyard, and delicious breakfasts. All that and beach towels, umbrellas, and great recommendations for dining and local activities.

Or maybe it’s the small town activities, like the Infiorata Festival that took place during my June visit. A team of local women and children arranged a path of flower displays leading through town to the church in celebration of a religious holiday.

Of course there is also great food to be found in Levanto - seafood, pesto, and a local specialty of giant fried ravioli stuffed with herbs. It’s worth the effort to find wine bar La Compera. This is a small place tucked away in a hidden piazza, away from the tourist center. They serve amazing bruschetta and local delicacies along with a nice wine list and great cocktails. They even made “mocktails” for the kids!

Summer holidays + Levanto + the amazing coastline of Liguria = summer perfection!
Contacts: A Durmì Via Viviani 12 19015 Levanto SP email: info@adurmi.it

La Compera. Piazza della Compera 3. 19015 Levanto SP. email: lacompera@gmail.com

August Holidays in Italy

Italians head to the beach in August. This is a typical beach club in Bonassola.

It’s August, the Italian holiday month. Tradition says to close down the shops, take time off work, and head out of town.

Don’t be surprised to see the “chiuso per ferie” (closed for holiday) sign on a favorite restaurant or shop, especially mid-month for the Ferragosto public holiday.

The beach is a favorite destination, providing time to swim, relax, read, do crossword puzzles by the sea, or just refresh and cool off.

Think colorful beach umbrellas, boats on the horizon, and lots of bronzed bodies off all ages, sizes, and shapes - that is the unabashed Italian way. Isn’t it wonderful?

In that spirit, I am taking an August writing break. The next few posts will be mostly photos, many taken along Italy’s dramatic coastline. I hope they keep you cool and daydreaming of summer in Italy.

Today - Portofino, enclave of the rich and famous. The water is blue, the harbor charming, the surrounding cliffs dramatic, and the yachts the stuff of fantasy. It’s a picture postcard of a town.

Yachts from all over the world anchor in Portofino’s harbor. Here, if you have to ask what it costs, you definitely can’t afford it ! And that includes the gelato.

A walk through town weaves past colorful houses, pretty gardens, high-end shops, small churches, and even a view of the castle up on the cliff. Stop for a harbor side gelato before boarding the ferry back to Rapallo or Santa Margarita. It’s hard to beat summer along the Ligurian coast !

Off The Beaten Path in Vernazza

Vernazza is crowded in June (even before peak season).

Vernazza is one of the five little villages that make up the Cinque Terre, stretching along the Ligurian coast of Italy. 4 of the 5 towns are perched right along the sea (from north to south: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Manarola, and Riomaggiore). The fifth village is Corniglia which sits nearly 400 steps up a hillside. Once a string of isolated fishing villages, the railroad made the region more accessible and the tourists soon followed. Today the Cinque Terre is a UNESCO World Heritage site, part of a national park, and a popular tourist destination.

Many would argue that the whole region has become much too popular with tourists and that is probably most true of picturesque Vernazza. It can be a very crowded place, especially in the summer.

And yet, it is a magical place to visit. Vernazza has a natural harbor surrounded by dramatic cliffs with the ruins of a castle and tower, an ancient defense against pirates, facing out to sea. The small harbor plays host to the ferry dock, fishing boats, lots of sunbathers along the rocks, and a small beach.

Colorful boats in Vernazza’s harbor

Standing tall above the harbor is the church of Santa Margherita D’Antiochia with it’s unusual octagonal campanile (bell tower). It is this church and the harbor that is the classic view of Vernazza and the photo taken my countless visitors (top photo). Nearby is pretty Piazza Marconi ringed with cafes and restaurants. From there a single main street links the harbor with the train station on the opposite side of town. Along the street is an arch leading to another small beach, shops, gelaterie, a small street-side chapel, and lots and lots of tourists.

When I visited in mid-June, with my daughter and two oldest grandkids, the crowds had already arrived though had not yet peaked. After a harbor side lunch we headed out along Via Roma. After a while we decided to escape the crowds by taking a left hand turn and heading up some steps to get above the fray. What a good decision!

Just one street off the busy “main drag”, Via Agostino del Santo is another world entirely. Few people, no tourists spots. But so much to enjoy - small houses with painted doors, steep streets, little hidden alleys, a couple of galleries, enchanting corners, and a walk that ended high above the harbor with great views.

This off the beaten path walk was a wonderful break from the crowds and a glimpse of Vernazza that most visitors never see. As is so often the case when visiting Italy, it is the slices of everyday life and the hidden spots that are the most enchanting.

Camogli, A Perfect Spot on the Portofino Penisola

If asked to pick my favorite spot on the Portofino Peninsula, for me there would be no competition - it’s Camogli. Smaller than its busier neighbor Rapallo, and much more humble than nearby Portofino, Camogli strikes the perfect balance.

At its heart, Camogli remains a small fishing village. The name most likely originated as a contraction of the word Casa (house) and Mogli (Wives), a nod to the time when the men stayed away fishing and the wives kept things running in town. An alternative theory is that it signifies a town of closely packed houses. That fits too as Camogli is filled with rows of connected houses in sun-drenched colors. To add to the charm, many of the houses are decorated with tromp l’oeil paintings and pretty flower-filled balconies. Even the laundry is decorative.

Today, the area surrounding the small harbor and seaside promenade remains the center of action in this friendly and laid back town. And there is still a lot of fishing going on, with signs of that activity visible throughout town.

There are two ways to arrive in Camogli (other than by car). The train, just two stops and about 8 minutes away from Rapallo, arrives in the upper part of town. A walk down the main street in front of the station takes you past colorful houses, small parks, bougainvillea covered fences, little shops, and a small tourist info office (stop in for a town map). It also provides teasing glimpses of the sea down below.

The second way to arrive is by ferry from San Fruttuoso, arriving in the lower town’s small harbor. The harbor is full of fishing boats and small sailing boats.

Camogli’s harbor, viewed through its romantic fence full of hearts. Valentine’s Day is an event to celebrate in Camogli.

A walk along the back of the harbor leads to a long jetty with harbor and open sea views, an interesting art installation, and a peek at Genoa in the distance.

Up above the harbor, on a rocky cliff jutting out to the sea, sits the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, with one side facing the harbor and the other a small rocky swimming spot. Also on the the cliff is a 13th century defensive structure, the Castello della Dragonara (Dragon’s Castle). Built to defend against invaders, it did not stop an attack by the Milanese in the 15th century. Over time it has been destroyed, rebuilt, used as a prison and abandoned. Today it stands as a sleepy guard over the peaceful fishing village (it is not open to visitors).

Castello della Dragonara (photo by Jake Davis)

The rocky perch on which the church and castle stand separates the harbor from the seaside promenade that stretches along Via Garibaldi. The promenade plays host to shady archways, shops, restaurants (the local specialty is focaccia, but oh the gelato and granita!), beaches lined with colorful umbrellas, and distant views of sea and sailboats. I don’t think that there is a more tranquil, friendly spot on the Portofino Peninsula.

A day in Camogli was not nearly enough time to spend in this perfect little fishing village. I think fall would be a perfect time to return or perhaps in May for the annual Sagra del Pesce (Festival of the Fish). Or in August for the Festa della Stella Maris (Festival of the Star of the Sea) when candles float on the sea in honor of the Madonna who protects sailors. Decisions, decisions!