Portovenere: Beauty Along the Italian Coast

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About this time in February every year, I begin to tire of winter’s darkness and start to long for days with many more hours of sunlight – preferably Mediterranean sunlight. I think of the coastline along western Italy, of the small towns where houses perch on cliffsides along the Amalfi Coast in the south of Italy or the Italian Riviera in the north.

Portovenere in Liguria, Italy

Portovenere in Liguria, Italy

Lately, I have been picturing Portovenere, which sits just south of the more tourist-attracting Cinque Terre villages of Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. Portovenere draws visitors but not nearly as many as those five towns that dot the rugged Ligurian coast.

Spectacular views are to be had from Portovenere.

Spectacular views are to be had from Portovenere.

Like its more popular neighbors, Portovenere is home to bright buildings that mimic the colors of the area: bright yellows like the sun, dark oranges like the land. Its promontory kisses the Ligurian Sea, which flows into the Bay of Poets. Portovenere is one of three communities in the bay and which, along with the Cinque Terre villages, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Lord Byron was one of the poets who loved this area and, as the dedication indicates, swam in the sea here.

Lord Byron was one of the poets who loved this area and, as the dedication indicates, swam in the sea here.

Portovenere was originally known as Portus Veneris because of an ancient temple dedicated to Venus, the Roman goddess of love, beauty and fertility. It’s an apt name as Portovenere is charming, beautiful and romantic. The views it offers of the sea are expansive. On a visit last year, the rays of the warm Mediterranean sun sparkled like diamonds on the bright blue water. The atmosphere was one of pure relaxation.

Yet there are also historic sites to see in Portovenere, quaint shops to peruse and restaurants to visit for delicious dishes. The colorful narrow buildings that house apartments and businesses are part of the architectural wonder of the town: They essentially form a protective barrier between the harborfront and the rest of the village. The ruins of Doria Castle offer some of the most stunning vistas of the sea of any place along the Ligurian coast. The castle was built in 1161 for the prominent Doria family. It is an imposing structure even today.

The Doria Castle

The Doria Castle

Portovenere is an easy day trip from the Cinque Terre villages or from Lucca in Tuscany. On my most recent trip I rented a car and, along with my companions, drove from Lucca to Portovenere for a lovely lunch, an afternoon stroll, a visit to the castle, a gelato and a bit of shopping. Staying for a long weekend would be a perfect way to shake off winter and welcome spring.

-post by JG

The Breathtaking Beauty of the Cinque Terre

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Too often, the word I need in Italian escapes me. But today I have exactly the right word to describe my visit to the Cinque Terre - mozzafiato. That first view, of colorful houses tumbling down hillsides toward the rocky coast and the blue, blue sea beyond is nothing short of mozzafiato, breathtaking.

Manarola, along the coast. 

Manarola, along the coast. 

I had just a single day to visit this unique part of Italy. The Cinque Terre lies along the eastern edge of the Ligurian coast where the sea begins to curve along the top of the Italian penisula toward the French Riviera.  A century or so ago these were five remote fishing villages but today they are connected by boat, train, and scenic walking paths, making them a popular tourist destination. I was lucky to be there on a sunny spring day just before the season when the biggest crowds arrive. One day is not enough to thoroughly explore each of the towns that make up the Cinque Terre but it was definitely enough to give me a flavor for the area and convince me that I need to return!

Manarola

Manarola

I arrived in Manarola on a Saturday morning in early April with a full day free to explore. I chose to spend some time in Manarola, go by boat to Vernazza, and then return to Manarola for further exploration and to meet up with my group (from Lucca Italian School) for the return trip to our home base of Lucca. The other three towns, Riomaggiore, Corniglia, and Monterosso al Mare, would have to wait for another visit. 

Manarola

Manarola

Rose Window in the Church of San Lorenzo

Rose Window in the Church of San Lorenzo

Manarola is one of the smallest Cinque Terre towns. It rolls down a steep hillside from the upper town square with the gothic Church of San Lorenzo and its bell tower across the central piazza. From there, it's a downhill stroll through a street full of charming and colorful houses, flowered terraces, streets lined with small fishing boats, terraced hills covered with grapevines, and small cafes and shops.

The main street in Manarola., lined with fishing boats.

The main street in Manarola., lined with fishing boats.

The small shop Burasca is a good place to sample the arancello (similar to limoncello but made from oranges) and to shop for local wines and products. 

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There are many restaurants serving fresh local fish, even take-away places selling paper cones filled with fritto misto (mixed fried fish). Further down the hillside is the landing dock for the battello (boat) to the other Cinque Terre towns.  An all-day "hop on, hop off"  boat pass costs 25 euro, less for single tickets between just two towns.

Boat dock, Manarola

Boat dock, Manarola

The boat is a great way to see both the towns and the dramatic coastline. The approach from the sea provides those mozzafiato views - sheer cliffs, colorful houses dancing down the slopes, ancient towers, tiny harbors, a glance at Corniglia high up on the bluff, and views of the sea beyond. As the boat pulls into Vernazza there is a spectacular view of the castle ruins and an ancient tower, perched on high. It's not hard to imagine the pirate raids that occurred along this coast - the reason these defensive structures were built.

The sea approach to Vernazza and the remains of a defensive tower, now housing a restaurant. 

The sea approach to Vernazza and the remains of a defensive tower, now housing a restaurant. 

Vernazza's beach

Vernazza's beach

Just around the corner from the boat dock lies Vernazza's small harbor with its fishing boats, a small spiaggia (beach), and a square full of cafes with brightly colored umbrellas and inviting patios.

Bell tower in Vernazza.

Bell tower in Vernazza.

Vernazza's harbor.

Vernazza's harbor.

Wandering through the town there are green shuttered houses on the hill, the intriguing church of Santa Margherita with its domed bell tower, a passage through an arch of rock to a small beachfront (marked with a "danger" sign, which didn't stop many people from entering), a tiny street side chapel, cafes, gelato spots, and many other shops. Near the train station is a billboard showing the damage done by the landslides and floods of October 2011. As mud and water came roaring down the steep hillside, the lower town and harbor filled with mud and debris. The damage was extensive and it's no small miracle that the town was rebuilt in a matter of a couple of years; today there is little obvious evidence of the destruction, though some of the trails between towns remain closed. 

A table with a view at the Belforte restaurant in Vernazza, Italy

A table with a view at the Belforte restaurant in Vernazza, Italy

 Returning to Manarola I had just enough time to walk back up the slope, buy some arancello, sample a local white wine, visit the church of San Lorenzo, and climb up to the parking lot to start the trip back to Lucca. Days like this I just have to pinch myself and feel so fortunate to have the opportunity for one perfect day in the Cinque Terra. Mozzafiato indeed.  -post by JB

 

Manarola, heading toward the boat dock

Manarola, heading toward the boat dock