Wandering in Florence

It is easy to be overwhelmed by the city of Florence. The art. The architecture. The history. The crowds !

Even though I live most of the year a short hour and twenty minute train ride away, I’ve only spent short periods of time in Florence since moving to Italy. Most visits have been day trips or at best one night stays for a specific purpose - a birthday lunch for a friend, the dramatic Florentine Easter celebration, the annual Christmas market. I once spent a day in the city shoe shopping, which felt (and still does) rather decadent.

It had been a long time since I visited for a longer stay or did the things Florence is famous for - museums, churches, markets, exhibits.

But that changed this past week with a 5 day stay that gave me lots of time to catch up with Florence.

November is a great time to visit Florence. There are still crowds, but they are much smaller than in high season. The cool, but not cold, weather is perfect, even with on and off rain. It was fortunate that the heavy rains that caused so many problems in Tuscany last week happened mostly later in the evenings and overnight in Florence and that there was no flooding. Watching the umbrellas go up and down filled the streets with changing colors.

I arrived with a list of things I wanted to see and do, many of them favorites from long ago trips or classic Florentine sights. And yet, with the luxury of a longer stay, what I found myself doing first was just wandering.

I wandered through main piazzas and down tiny side streets. Past small markets and interesting shops. I even came across a brass band who filled a piazza with sound. I found a small sandwich stand that I first discovered 20+ years ago on a food tour and had been unable to find since. I got turned around and a little bit lost and found surprises around every corner. Perhaps best of all is just to people watch and observe Florentine daily life with camera in hand.

I crossed the Ponte Santa Trinità for views of the Ponte Vecchio. The dark and cloudy skies changed the character of the Arno, creating shadows and reflections in the water.

I spent some time looking up. There are lots of interesting things to be seen far above eye level.

Wandering through Florence presents so many small details to discover - pretty doors, carved stone decorations, street side shrines, and the outsides of famous churches. Wandering provides the luxury to sip a coffee in a pretty cafe with a view to a piazza and just daydream.

I did make time to visit some more well known places - including 2 museums, some churches, a market, the Piazza del Duomo, and a fabulous art nouveau exhibit. All were wonderful. I’ll write more about them in the next weeks.

But simply wandering the city, without a specific goal, was one of the best parts of my visit and those are the rather random photos i’m sharing this week.

The Pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella in Florence

As I stand at the entrance to the Pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella I have a sudden thought - this must be what heaven smells like. I can hardly wait to go inside!

The official name is Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, in English that translates to the Workshop of Perfumes and Pharmaceuticals of Santa Maria Novella. That is a fairly ordinary name for an extraordinary place.

The pharmacy was established by Dominican friars from the nearby church of Santa Maria Novella during the early 13th century, making it one of the oldest European apothecaries still in operation. Centuries ago the friars cultivated herbs and used them to make herbal medicines, tinctures, and ointments for the monastery. Some of their brews, scented with rose water, herbs, and spices, were designed to fight the plagues that ravaged Florence and to treat a variety of other ailments. The friars became famous for their potions and in the 1600’s they opened their pharmacy to the public.

It has been a long time since the pharmacy was run by monks. Fortunately they left behind both their legacy and the formulas they created. For several generations the pharmacy was owned by a family who honored the traditions left by those long-ago friars. They expanded the business to many countries and gave it an on-line presence (in the US the website is: us.smnovella.com). This year ownership was acquired by an Italian beauty products company, Italmobiliare. Let’s hope they continue the wonderful legacy of those long ago monks.

The pharmacy still operates in its historic location on Via della Scala in what was once the Chapel of San Niccolò. The original chapel was built in thanks for the care given to a local merchant, Dardano Acciaioli, by the friars of the church of Santa Maria Novella. It is no surprise then that a trip to the pharmacy feels a bit like a religious pilgrimage.

Walking down Via della Scala towards number 16, you will know you have arrived when you become aware of that most enticing scent. The outside of the building is unremarkable, so allow the scent to draw you in. The experience begins just inside the doors as you cross the ornate marble floor and pass through the elaborate floral decorations. Just follow that scent!

The experience begins at the entrance to the antique pharmacy

Just off the entry hall is a room that was once the sacristy of the the Chapel of San Niccolò. Adorned with beautiful frescoes from around the year 1400 (below), today this room is part museum and part showroom.

Each subsequent room in the pharmacy evokes the ancient apothecary, provides interesting historical artifacts, and contains elegantly displayed products.

Shop here and you follow in the footsteps of Catherine di Medici, an early patron of the pharmacy. A unique perfume was developed for her, named Acqua della Regina. It was the first perfume to be made with alcohol as a base and it traveled with her to France. The scent is still produced today along with a host of other wonderful scents.

Perhaps Catherine di Medici wore an amulet like this one on display in the pharmacy, filled with a potion to ward off illness.

In addition to perfumes, the other products sold here include elixirs, liquors, soaps, potpourri, lozenges, scented candles, and skin care products. There are also some beautiful accessories for the home. All are manufactured locally using traditional methods.

I visited just before Christmas when the seasonal decorations were fabulous and the gift buying opportunities were endless. Every product was beautifully presented, even a simple package of mints came in an artfully designed tin. The delicate filigree items (candle and potpourri holders) are handmade by a local craftsman. They make lovely Christmas ornaments, with or without potpourri. Each gift comes in a box tied with an elegant ribbon.

The Christmas tree at Santa Maria Novella pharmacy, 2021

Florence is full of churches and museums - a host of “must see” places. The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella provides a different Florentine experience. It is a feast for the senses and a taste of luxury both ancient and contemporary. It is a unique way to step back into the history of this remarkable Italian city.

Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (The Museum of the Works of the Cathedral, Florence)

Many years ago, on my first visit to Florence, I visited the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (the museum associated with the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, usually referred to as “the Duomo”). At that time (1996), the museum was a jumble of a space, small and crowded with poorly displayed art and artifacts from the famous cathedral. I was not inspired to return.

Detail from a sculpture by Ticciati, once part of the main altar in the Duomo, now in the redesigned museum entry

 In recent years, the museum has been enlarged and has undergone a top-to-bottom renovation (completed in 2015). On a recent trip to Florence I decided to revisit the museum to see the changes – and my only word is WOW - what a change! 

16th century bust of Mary Magdalene, Giovanni Bandini

The museum is now an amazing space, full of light, open galleries, and fascinating art and artifacts from throughout the cathedral’s history.

The displays are well organized, beautifully presented, and provide good historical context.

Many of the pieces are original, moved from the cathedral itself. These include Ghiberti’s bronze baptistery doors, an evocative Pietà by Michelangelo, a carved wooden Mary Magdalene by Donatello, and portions of a larger-than-life sculpture from what was once a main altar in an earlier version of the cathedral (top photo).

A reproduction of the church facade, lined with statuary, fills the long, high gallery on the ground floor. How wonderful to get a closer look at these examples of statues that are so high up on the actual cathedral’s exterior. The facade can also be enjoyed from a viewing gallery on the floor above, which provides an even closer look at the statues high up on the recreated facade.

Statue gallery

 Across from this wall of statues are the two massive bronze baptistery doors by Ghiberti. I could spend hours looking at the details of the panels that make up these doors. Each panel tells a story in intricate detail.

Detail of panels from the north baptistry doors

Wooden model of the lantern that rises above the cupola

Central to the history of the cathedral is the building of the cupola (dome). Designed by Brunelleschi, it is a marvel of engineering and architecture.

The museum has an area dedicated to its construction that includes models of the dome and the lantern that caps it, a video presentation, and a display of tools used in the dome’s construction.

 Considering that the cupola was built in the 15th century, is this impressive engineering or miracle?

 One of my favorite displays was the reproductions of the stained glass windows.  More than a static display, the dynamic technology brings the windows up close, allowing the brilliant colors and designs to unfold before one’s eyes to be viewed in detail.

Of course a cathedral must have music and  the museum includes beautifully illustrated books of sacred music and two marble choir lofts (actually designed for organs not choirs). One loft was designed by della Robbia and the other by Donatello.  Both are beautiful but quite different in character.

Joyful children play across della Robbia’s sculpted choir loft

Detail from large book of sacred music

To end a visit here, be sure to view the actual dome from the viewing platform on the museum’s top floor.

The redesigned Museo dell’Opera del Duomo is nothing short of marvelous. Kudos to the redesign team - what a gift they have given us.   - Post by JMB

Location:   Piazza del Duomo 9, 50122 Florence, Italy

Hours:  Sunday through Saturday 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sunday 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.  Closed Mondays and first Tuesday of the month.  Hours subject to change; best to check ahead of time

Cost: an 18 euro ticket allows access to the museum and baptistery .  Several combined museum tickets also area available 

A Recommended Hotel in Florence: The Morandi alla Crocetta

What do you look for when you choose a hotel in Italy?

A courtyard at Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta

I look for places that are small, unique to the city I’m visiting, simple yet charming, and reasonably priced. I avoid the big chains and international brands in favor of places that are family-owned and offer local character and personal touches. I find the smaller hotels to be welcoming and friendly with great connections to local culture and wonderful service to guests.

The first time I traveled to Florence, 20-some years ago, I came across a gem of a small hotel called the Morandi alla Crocetta. I’ve stayed there many times since and it never disappoints – in fact, it’s the only place I stay when I’m in Florence. It has the perfect combination of history, charm, location, service, and price.

Wearing the laurel wreath of a graduate of the law school, right next to the hotel

The hotel is at 50 Via Laura in the section of Florence near the Ospedale degli Innocenti, Church of SS. Annunziata, the Academia (home of the David), and the Archeological Museum. It’s an easy walk to all the major points of interest in Florence, about eight minutes to the Duomo. This is a lively (but not noisy) neighborhood, which is also home to the University of Florence School of Law. During my recent visit, I was able to watch the graduation celebrations as law students and their families marked the completion of degrees (laurea in Italian). What fun it was to witness this event!

Many artifacts related to Sister Domenica are displayed in the hotel

The Morandi alla Crocetta is a unique property, originally a convent founded by Sister Domenica del Paradiso (what a name!) in the early 16th century, during the era of the Medici. According to the history provided in the hotel literature, Sister Domenica sided with the Medici family in their conflict with the powerful cleric Savonarola, and so the Medici rulers gave her this land on which to build her convent. The convent was called the Convent of the Cross (cross is crocetta in Italian) as all the nuns had a small red cross on their habits. The convent was later enlarged by a Medici princess and connected by an overpass to her palazzo so she could worship at the convent’s small chapel. With time, and a period of religious suppression, the nuns moved away and the convent ceased to exist.

Today’s hotel Morandi includes the cloister and gardens from the historic convent. It is a small hotel with two floors (ground and first, with an elevator). The convent’s chapel is no longer accessible, but the former entry to the chapel is perhaps the most interesting room in the hotel - complete with 17th century frescoes and illustrations of the life of Sister Domenica. This room is a bit of a splurge, but definitely worth it.

Ceiling Fresco, Chapel Room

Chapel Room

Fresco, Chapel Room

Other rooms range from small (comfortable and economical) singles to large suites, some with private outdoor patios. There are several gracious lounge areas with a variety of books, magazines, and newspapers for browsing.

Desk area in single room

Single Room

Double Room

Since I was staying in one of the small single rooms during my most recent visit, I made good use of the comfortable public areas as a place to read and do some writing.

The hotel provides a full breakfast in an elegant room overlooking a small courtyard garden. Breakfast includes a basket of cornetti (Italian style croissants) and bread with jam, yogurt, fruit, cereal, juice, coffee, and tea. Also available are eggs, bacon, ham, salami, and cheeses. It’s a great place to meet other travelers and compare experiences over morning coffee. In the evening, the breakfast room transforms into a bar.

My most recent stay at the hotel Morandi alla Crocetta (October 2018) was a delight. This is a place that I happily recommend.  I’m already planning a return next summer with my family.       - post by JMB

Contact info: 

Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta

Via Laura 50, Firenze 50121   

phone: +39 055 234 4748

email: welcome@hotelmorandi.it

A Rainy Sunday Morning in Florence

I arrived in Florence for two full days, my last days in Italy before flying back to the United States. I was hoping for a low-key visit, which can be a challenge in crowded and hectic Florence. I planned to wander the streets, explore the markets, hang out in the Oltrarno side of town, sip cappuccino outdoors, and soak up the atmosphere of Florence. I didn’t plan to do any of the large museums but thought I might stop by the Bargello, my favorite of all the museums in Florence.

As it turned out, the Bargello was closed both days and the weather turned wet and windy (the beginning of the terrible storms that ravaged Italy in late October/early November). Flexibility is a must when traveling - no whining about rain or unexpected closings allowed! With a little adjustment in plans, my rainy visit in Florence turned out to be most enjoyable, beginning with a memorable Sunday morning.

After waking up to the sound of rain and church bells, I had a relaxed breakfast at my hotel (already a great day). Then, umbrella in hand, it was off to the Duomo (officially the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore). The most famous landmark in Florence, approaching it from any direction is unforgettable. How can such majesty sit just up a city street? It looms large over shops and cafes, daring anyone to forget, even for a moment, that they are in Florence.

Up close, the Duomo is even more impressive. The cathedral itself is huge - long and tall and capped with its famous dome. The elaborate facade is marble - in green, white, and soft pink - and full of carvings, statues, decoration, ornate windows and carved doors under elaborate arches.

The tall campanile (bell tower) and adjacent octagonal baptistery are also dressed in marble. What a feast for the eyes (though like all feasts, it can leave you reeling trying to digest it all).

The baptistry under gray skies and rain

The cathedral is a huge tourist draw and there are usually long lines to enter. But on Sunday mornings, it is open only to those attending Mass - an ideal way to experience this church.  

Main altar, Santa Maria del Fiore (Duomo), Florence

As I entered, a small service (the Lodo mattitini - morning lauds) was being chanted in a side chapel. Is anything more peaceful then the sound of Gregorian chant? As that service ended, the 10:30 a.m. Mass began. Rather than sitting out in the large church, attendees were invited to come up to the area surrounding the main altar, just beneath the dome.

Brunelleschi’s Dome.

The service began with organ music filling the cathedral, the sound and vibration making the music one with body and soul. The Mass itself (a cultural experience even for the non-religious, as well as a good way to practice Italian comprehension) was beautiful with prayer, incense, music and chorus. And all the while I sat under Brunelleschi’s dome - soaring high above the altar, with its majestic painted cupola. 

Detail, Brunelleschi’s Dome

It sure seemed like a glimpse of heaven to me.     -post by JMB