Wandering Through Volterra

One of the joys of living in Italy is the ability to return to a favorite place on multiple occasions without the need to fit everything into one visit. It feels decadent to, for instance, go to Florence just to shop for shoes or to dinner in Pisa and not even wander past the Torre Pendente (Leaning Tower) because, well, you’ll do that next time. For me, one of those favorite places is the town of Volterra, about an hour and a half drive from my home in Lucca. Being so close to home makes this perfect for a day trip (or two or three day trips).

Volterra never disappoints. It has a unique charm that keeps drawing the visitor in. There is something about its city walls, stone buildings, narrow streets spanned by arches, charming cafes and restaurants, and many artisan workshops that makes it the perfect Italian hill town. And the views! Situated on a plateau high above the Val di Cecina (Cecina Valley), the views are nothing short of spectacular. As a bonus, since Volterra is a bit out of the way, it has fewer tourists than nearby San Gimignano. This is especially true in the off-season when a visit here provides uncrowded streets and the experience of “ordinary” daily life in a small Italian hill town.

Looking down on the valley from Volterra

This year I have been able to visit Volterra twice. The first time, last March just before the start of Italy’s COVID-19 lockdown, my main objective was to visit the Etruscan Museum. Volterra was an important city during the Etruscan times (roughly from the 9th to the 2nd century BC). Today it is one of the best places in Italy to learn about Etruscan life and art. The museum here is small and the explanations are mostly in Italian, but the collection of art and artifacts, including bronze sculptures, intricately carved alabaster and terra cotta funeral urns, and objects of daily living such as coins, jewelry, and kitchen ware, is fascinating (photos below by Judy Giannettino).

My second visit to Volterra this year was a spontaneous lunch and shopping excursion with a friend. We started with an arrival coffee at the popular bar / pasticcieria L’Incontro. This is a wonderful spot for morning coffee, lunch, or an apperitivo. The pastries and candies are tasty and eye-catching. And there is fun art inside too!

After a quick stop at the Etruscan Museum gift shop (for a purchase my friend regretted not getting on our last visit) we spent the day wandering through town and stopping at any place that grabbed our attention.

We walked down the wide “main drag” of Via Gramsci, with a brief stop in the tiny Oratorio di Sant’Antonio. Somehow these tiny Italian churches always move me, even more so than the grand cathedrals.

After some window shopping and a stop to buy some newly pressed olive oil, we passed by a small ceramic shop, the Bottega d’Arte. No classic italian pottery designs here! The charming owner and his daughter make colorful and whimsical pieces with undulating curves and colorful glazes. As is so often the case in Italy, he took time to speak with great enthusiasm about his work, his studio, and his philosophy of art and life. Experiences like these are part of the reason I love Italy. I will treasure the two small pieces that I bought here.

After spending time in the ceramic shop we passed by what is surely the most photographed view in Volterra, at the end of the Vicolo degli Abbandonati looking out over the valley. It’s impossible to pass by without taking a photograph of this scene.

Next, it was on to lunch at restaurant Fornelli. It has a scenic position, an outdoor patio, and a beautiful interior with interesting decor. Most importantly, it has wonderful food and friendly staff. I ate here in March with a group of friends (photos below); it was just as good the second time around!

I hope to return to Volterra soon. There is still a lot to see and do - the Roman amphitheater, the Alabaster museum, a walk up to the castello, and I will look forward to once again wandering those beautiful streets.

Classic Italian Motorcycles

What is it about a vintage Italian motorcycle that is so alluring, so romantic?

I can just picture myself, a scarf around my hair Audrey Hepburn style, arms wrapped around someone who looks a lot like Marcello Mastroianni, speeding through the Italian countryside.  Pure fantasy!  In reality, my motorcycle days were back in the 70’s, the countryside was rural Colorado, my then “fidanzato”, while cute, was no Marcello, and the motorcycle was Japanese made. Back then, Italy hadn’t yet entered my dreams.  

A week or so ago, while watching Italian TV (a strategy for increasing my Italian vocabulary), an interview with the mayor of Lucca caught my attention. He was talking about an exhibit of classic Italian motorcyles. Even better, he said that the exhibit was being held in the beautiful setting of Palazzo Pfanner, one of the loveliest spots inside the historic city center. This was something I had to see.

The motorcycles filled both the entry courtyard of the grand palazzo and the limonaia (the outbuilding where the lemon trees are stored in cold weather). What a stunning backdrop for the beautiful classic motorcycles!

Scooters filled the entry courtyard to the palazzo. These are by Vespa and Lambretta, both companies began manufacturing in the 1940’s.

 If you’ve ever enjoyed a motorcycle ride, say a word of thanks to two inventors from the province of Lucca - Eugenio Barsanti and Felice Matteucci. They did not invent the motorcycle but they did develop and patent the first internal combustion engine (way back in 1853).  This type of engine, based on harnessing the power of exploding gases (sounds a bit frightening), provided an alternative to the steam engine and was a precursor to the modern piston engine. The original models of Barsanti and Matteuci were far too large to use on a motorcycle; it would take German engineers to make the first “modern” motorcycle (the Daimler Reitwagen) in 1885. How things have evolved from those early models!  And, since no one does style better than the Italians, the classic made-in-Italy models from the 1920’s through the 1960’s are not just means of transportation, they are stylish works of art.

 Some of the names are recognizable - Ducati, Lambretta, and Moto Guzzi. Other older brands have been out of production for years and are less well known (at least to non-Italians).  The exhibit included both the famous brands and the less famous.  There were even some American classics like Henderson and Harley-Davidson and the first American motorcycle brand, the Indian.

 Some of the motorcycles in the exhibit were very early models, some were war-time vehicles, some were designed for work, and some were clearly designed for fun and for speed. There was even a group with fancy side cars. All were fascinating, from the leather seats, to the spoke wheels, to the saddle bags and the somewhat primitive looking engine parts. 

The oldest model in the exhibit was a Galloni, a brand produced only between 1920 and 1931. The one in the exhibit was from 1924.  Moto Guzzi was represented with the largest number of bikes, but there were also models by Sertum, della Ferrara, Bianchi, and Benelli.

The exhibit was fascinating. It was visually interesting, it presented a different aspect of Italian culture and history, the setting was gorgeous, and I learned about Barsanti and Matteucci (and more than I ever thought I’d know about combustion engines).  Now, if only I could take one for a spin around the Tuscan countryside!

From My Italian Kitchen: Eggplant Stacks

Eggplant, melanzane in Italian, is a bit of a tricky vegetable. It looks gorgeous. If I were painting a still life there would definitely be a perfect, round bottomed purple eggplant in it. But for years I avoided eating it, having had a few too many encounters with mushy and overcooked or greasy, oversauced eggplant dishes.

And then one day, on a visit to Bologna, I had a bite of a friends melanzane alla parmigiana at a little out of the way restaurant called Osteria Santa Caterina. And - wow - love at first bite. The eggplant was perfectly cooked, not at all mushy. There wasn’t a bit of grease, and both the cheese and sauce were used sparingly. I’ve ordered that dish each time I’ve visited Bologna and it never disappoints. Still, I didn’t think I could ever cook eggplant myself.

Fast forward to this September. Returning to Italy after a visit to the US necessitated a strict 2 week quarantine. That meant two things - I had plenty of time to experiment in the kitchen and I was dependent on friends to help supply me with fresh foods. Lucky for me I have terrific friends who stocked my fridge before my arrival and deposited all kinds of goodies at my doorstep! One of the “care packages” I received was overflowing with gorgeous fruits and veggies - just picked grapes, tomatoes, peppers, some fresh basil, and two beautiful melanzane. Determined to make something delicious with this bounty, I decided to experiment. I did a little research beforehand on how to avoid the mush. The secret is the same one I use when prepping spaghetti squash - a heavy sprinkle of salt on the raw sliced eggplant to draw out the moisture prior to cooking. With that in mind I proceeded without a recipe, using ingredients I had on hand that were similar to the ingredients in a parmigiana. The result was wonderful - lovely stacks of eggplant slices slightly breaded and crisped in just a touch of oil, topped with a slice of ripe tomato, a fresh basil leaf, a sprinkle of parmesan, and a slice of fresh mozzarella. No sauce at all. Although I had intended this as a side dish, it ended up as my main dish - a hearty yet vegetarian meal with that farm to table essence that makes Italian food so wonderful. I will be making this dish again - and I hope you will give it a try too!

Eggplant rounds, lightly breaded and fried, ready for toppings!

Eggplant Stacks

I medium size eggplant (the larger ones tend to be tough)

1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water

Plain fine breadcrumbs

Vegetable oil

I large ripe tomato

Fresh basil leaves

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1 large round of fresh mozzarella

Salt to taste

Slice eggplant into rounds about 1 inch thick, lay on a baking sheet and sprinkle generously with salt. Let sit for 15 minutes and then wipe pooled water and salt away.

Dip each round into egg mixture and then into bread crumbs to lightly coat both sides.

Perfectly ripe tomatoes are a key part of this dish

In a large frying pan, heat enough vegetable oil to cover the bottom of the pan. When hot, place the rounds of eggplant in and fry for a few minutes each side until the bread crumbs are crisp and golden and eggplant has softened.

Remove from pan and place slices of eggplant on a baking sheet. Top each round with 1 slice tomato, a pinch of salt, a basil leaf, a sprinkle of Parmesan, and a slice of mozzarella.

Ready for the oven

Bake at 350 degrees x 15 minutes. Serve right away.

Buon appetito!

A Fall Day in Lucca

Fall is my favorite time of year whether I’m in the United States or in Italy. I love the changing leaves, the autumn scents (roasting green chile in New Mexico, chestnuts in Italy), the colorful gourds and pumpkins, and the feel of crisp air on my face. But to spend fall in Lucca - now that is seasonal bliss.

I spent a good part of this summer outside of Italy, returning in mid-September. With a two week quarantine on arrival, I watched from my window as the last days of summer slipped away and fall crept in. What a relief to finish those two confined weeks and step out into an Italian autumn.

Looking down from the walls into the city of Lucca

Fall began with a spell of stormy weather marked by cloudy skies, rolling thunder, falling tree branches, and periods of heavy rain. Everyone tried to take advantage of breaks in the storms to get outside, run errands, stop for an outdoor coffee, and go for walks. That’s exactly what my Saturday consisted of this past weekend. The best part of the day was a mid-afternoon walk along le mura (the walls that enclose the historic city center). It took place under dramatic skies and a mist in the air that almost, but not quite, required an ombrello (umbrella).

Storm clouds over Piazza Santa Maria, Lucca

The city walls are lined with trees which, at this time of year, make a colorful statement. Looking up into the branches is an artist’s palette of color. Looking down, the falling leaves cover the ground in shades of gold and yellow. Chestnuts fall and crunch under foot, their spiny outer shells and dark brown nuts symbolizing the season.

A tree trunk covered in moss and “Venus’s belly button”

Many of the trees along the walls are covered in moss (something I certainly don’t see in arid New Mexico).

This year, for the first time, I’ve noticed another plant growing through the moss on one of the trees - delicate stalks with small, round, green tops. I’m told they are called Venus’s Belly Button (officially Cotyledon Umbilicus). An internet search tells me they are used in homeopathic medicine. Fascinating!

As my walk around the walls continued, each bend in the path brought a different view of the increasingly dark and cloudy sky. It was an if an artist were painting individual scenes with expert use of light and dark against trees and sky. If only I could paint! Instead, I pulled out my camera in an attempt to capture the beauty of the day.

I could not have asked for a more perfect autumn afternoon or a more beautiful setting in which to enjoy it. I arrived home just as the mist turned into rain. Perfect timing, perfect fall day.

A storm brewing on an October afternoon in Lucca

A Scavenger Hunt in Lucca

Lucca has many well-known sites - churches, gardens, medieval streets, the remains of a Roman Amphitheater. It also has many hidden gems and an abundance of art and architectural detail tucked away in less known places.

As a “let’s all keep busy and plan our next outing in Lucca” activity during this period of on-going travel restrictions, I thought an art and architecture scavenger hunt would be fun. I hope you will want to play along!

How many of these scenes are familiar to you? Can you identify where to find them? If you recognize them, I hope they evoke happy memories. And if you are not familiar with them, I hope you will put them on the “must see” list for your next stroll through Lucca.

Can you identify where in Lucca each of these photos were taken? Start with the top photo above and then check your answers against the descriptions at the end of this post. No cheating !

#2

#3 (below) is a before (on the left) and after restoration (on the right). Which do you prefer?

#4

#5

#6

#7

#8

#9

#10

#1. This fresco is found above the front door of the church of Sant’Anastasio, the only Eastern Orthodox Church in Lucca. Try to peak inside - the interior is stunning and unlike any other church in Lucca.

#2 This beautiful carving tells the story of Santa Zita. it is found above the well (now covered) outside the home where she used to work for the Fatinelli family on Via Fontana, just a few steps off busy Via Fillungo.

#3 This recently restored fresco is found on Via Arcivescovado. For years I hoped it would be restored as I watched it crumble and fade but now I find I miss the faded original.

#4 Sometimes it is the smallest detail that catches the eye. What this is exactly I cannot say - it’s hinged so must be a door or access panel of some sort. But to me it looks like a piece of sculptural art. It is found on the back side of the Church of San Frediano, facing the piazza in front of the Real Collegio. Extra points to anyone who can explain its purpose.

#5 This gate combines art and function. It is found inside the gardens of Palazzo Pfanner, just to the side of the big circular fountain. The structure in the back, which looks like stables for really small horses, is actually where the beer kegs were stored when this palazzo served as Lucca’s beer garden.

#6 Lucca has many, many church bells but these are unique as they are small and not inside a campanile (bell tower). You’ll have to look up to see them, above the tiny church of Santa Maria della Rosa. My favorite church in Lucca, it is built up against a section of the original Roman wall, has lovely frescos, and the beautiful painting of Santa Maria della Rosa above the altar.

#7 This is a hard one and is from another of Lucca’s tiny churches, the Church of Santa Caterina. Santa Caterina has a unique painted ceiling that is actually a double dome. The lower dome has an oculus through which you view the upper dome, giving the illusion of incredible depth.

If you climb the stairs all the way to the top, photo #7 is what the dome looks like viewed from above. To the right is what it looks like from the church floor below. Gorgeous.

Santa Caterina was restored by FAI several years ago and is rarely open except for special events. It definitely goes on my “do not miss” list. And hearing music in the small chapel is magic!

#8 There is a large ruin that is easily seen along the northeast part of Lucca’s wall, adorned with graffiti. However this glimpse into the ruin is visible only from the street level at the very north end of Via del Fosso, where the water first enters the canal. It’s an intriguing sight - who lived here? why did they leave? what lies inside? and what is that hanging over the doorway?

#9 This dragon-like creature is found in Piazza San Michele, high above a bank, a counterpoint to the Archangel Michael atop the cathedral across the way.

#10. Not all of the statues in Lucca are of famous composers, water nymphs, or goddesses. Some are just plain fun, like this lusty lady in front of Trattoria da Ubaldo.  Blow her a kiss, surely it brings good luck. There are more interesting “treasures” to be found inside the trattoria. A fun place for lunch or dinner.

I hope you’ve had fun with this scavenger hunt around Lucca. Do you have photos of hidden gems here in Lucca? If so, please post them on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page.