Fa Caldo !

Even the statues need shades with all this sunshine!

Whether you are in Europe or the United States, right now chances are you are feeling the heat.  In Italian we say fa caldo - it’s hot. 

Much of the world is experiencing a dramatic ondata di caldo (heat wave) which has many of us (me included) feeling more than a little bit grumpy. I am trying to run errands early in the day, the afternoon finds me staying indoors. I’m a bit envious of my Australian friends, for whom it is not summer but winter.  If only they could bottle that cool air and send it our way!

Italians have many expressions to describe the intense summer heat.  These range from the humorous, mi sudano le mutande (my undies are sweating) to the slightly profane (to be used only when it is really, really hot) un caldo della Madonna! Whenever the name of the Madonna (the religious figure, not the pop star) is used, well then, it’s a pretty serious complaint.  Perhaps it is more politically correct to say that there is un caldo bestiale, a brutal or beastly heat.

On a hot summer day in Lucca a Caffè Shakerato is essential. Either straight espresso or with a little milk, this iced coffee drink is just the thing on a hot afternoon.

This summer you could say si può friggere un uovo sulla marciapiede (you could fry an egg on the sidewalk) or sul cofano della macchina (on the hood of the car). In Texas last week, someone was baking bread in their mailbox.  That’s hot!

These very warm days have me thinking about all the ways to keep cool in the heat of summer, from cool summer drinks to no-cook meals to dips in the pool. 

It’s much too hot to cook during the day, so creative entertaining and dining are called for. Fancy entertaining is just not happening in this heat. An aperitivo happily replaces meal preparation. Better yet when accompanied by a crisp white wine or a tart summer cocktail! It’s hard to beat a spritz or a cosmopolitan sipped with a pretty Italian view.

A cold, creamy gelato is practically medicinal in the summer heat. And if a gelato is good, an affogato (ice cream “drowned” in espresso) might just be even better! It’s a real pick-me-up.

Sailing School, Rapallo

I’ve also been thinking of the different places I’ve gone over the years to escape the heat. 

The Ligurian coast, still hot but cooled just a bit by a sea breeze, is a wonderful summer escape.

With August just around the corner it’s a sure thing that the Italians will be headed for the coast.

In the US, coastal Oregon, with its rocky beaches and old lighthouses, provides a wonderful summer escape.  Even the fog was delightful.

The mountains of New Mexico and Colorado are a favorite summer vacation spot for my family. Cool mountain air, river paths to walk, lakes, and lots of fun activities keep my grandkids happy despite the heat. Truth be told, I am happy to be in the low humidity heat of the western US in the summertime and usually head to New Mexico to avoid the hot, humid Italian summers.

England and Scotland provide a nice break from the heat of summer. Even in August a light jacket or sweater might be needed. Better still if you can get to Edinburgh to celebrate the Fringe Festival in August. Fun performances and cool weather make Edinburgh a great summer choice. And the interior of those castles stay cool too.

Wherever you are this summer, I hope your strategies for staying cool are working!   As for me, I will return to hot and humid Italy in mid-August. You will find me cooling off on the shores of an Italian lake.

An August escape to the Italian lakes holds at least a promise of cooler temperatures.

Do you have a favorite place to cool off, or a favorite summer time food / drink? If so, post some photos on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page.  We could all use the inspiration!

Buonamico, A Tuscan Winery

My favorite local wine shop - Vineria Dolce Vita - in Lucca. They have a great selection of local wines. Ricardo, the owner, is a great source of recommendations. Plus I like this philosophy !

 One of the many joys of life in Italy is the abundance of good local products.  That includes everything from fruits and vegetables, olive oil, leather goods, ceramics, fabrics, and art.   And, of course, wine.  When it comes to wines there are plenty of great local wines to choose from. 

 When I say local, I mean really local.  Not just Italian, or even from the nearby Chianti region.  Not even the famous wines of Montalcino and Montepulciano, but wines directly from the hills above Lucca.  In fact, when I first moved to Lucca I went in search of one of my favorite Italian summer wines – a crisp white Gavi.  It was nowhere to be found.  And although I find it easily in the US, none of the Lucchese wine shops carried it.  When I asked why, the proprietor of the shop simply gave me a funny look and said that Gavi came from the area around Torino.  It wasn’t local, or famous, so he didn’t carry it.  OK then.  My search to identify my favorite local wines was on.

 I quickly learned that I could always count on a wine from Montecarlo, a hill town about 30 minutes outside of Lucca.  Both the Montecarlo reds and whites were good and worked well with a variety of dishes.  All the local wine stores and restaurants were well supplied with reasonably priced Montecarlo wines. But really getting to know the local wines takes more than just an occasional glass with dinner out or a random bottle from a local shop. The best way to get to know the local wines is to go straight to the winery for a tasting.

No surprise that the shops in Montecarlo sell Buonamico wines.

Since I don’t have a car in Lucca, it can be difficult for me to get to even the close-by vineyards as many are not reachable by train or bus.  That’s why I jumped at the chance to join an excursion to one of Montecarlo’s top wine producers, Tenuta del Buonamico.  The trip was organized by The Tuscan Wanderer – a local tour company run by Giovanni, with a big assist from his American wife Loreal.  They organize several tours to the vineyards near Lucca (and beyond) as well as non-wine themed excursions. Giovanni provided transportation for our small group to Montecarlo and arranged for us to tour the Buonamico cellars followed by a wine tasting.  They also reserved a table for us at the winery’s elegant Restaurant Syrah, where we enjoyed a special meal with – yes - more wine.  These small group excursions are a great way to get to some of the more out-of-the-way wine producers in the area and Giovanni always makes it fun.

Vines and Olive tress surround the tasting room at Tenuta del Buonamico Winery

We started our day with a quick stop in the hill town of Montecarlo.  Montecarlo is a stop on the Strada del Vino delle Colline Lucchesi e di Montecarlo (the Wine Road of the Lucchese Hills and Montecarlo).  It sits high above the vineyards of Buonamico.  After a stroll through the village, which is home to gorgeous views, an old fortress, and a small central street lined with shops, cafes, and restaurants. we made a quick stop for a coffee before we headed down the hill to the winery. 

 Tenuta del Buonamico was founded in the 1960’s by two close friends and restaurateurs.  The word buonamico means good friend, so the name of the winery is a nod to the original founders.  Today it is the largest of the wine producers in the area, producing some 400,000 bottles per year. They vineyards include the oldest Syrah vines in Tuscany.  Much of Buonamico’s production will make its way to restaurants and shops in the area, but some will be sold for export.  The setting of the winery is pure Tuscany – rolling hectares of vineyards, olive groves, and woodlands with classic views of medieval Montecarlo in the distance.   But the winery itself is quite modern. 

Montecarlo, as seen from Tenuta del Buonamico

 Our Buonamico tour guide provided a great overview of the wine making process. Once harvested from the Buonamico vineyards, the grapes begin fermentation in gleaming steel tanks, designed especially to fit the space of the winery. The process is quite high-tech and the temperature is computer controlled.  Glass tubes along the outside of the tanks provide a glimpse of what is inside – white, red, or rosato (rosato is the Italian word for what we would call rosé).  

 From the steel tanks most of the wines are then placed into oak barrels, never used more than 3 times. The oak barrels then go into the cellar to continue to age.

Not all of the wine goes into the oak barrels. Instead some, about 140,000 bottles worth, is used to make spumante (sparkling) wines.  There is a separate area where the “bubbles” are fermented, using the Charmat method.  As our tour guide explained, this method involves secondary fermentation in a steel tank, whereas in the traditional champagne method the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.  The Charmat method is also used in making Prosecco.  But don’t call these sparkling whites Prosecco! That name is reserved for wines produced in a different and specially designated area.   At Tenuta del Buonamico they make two varieties of Spumante - both a sparkling white and a sparkling rosé. 

 One of the most enchanting parts of the winery tour took us into the cellar named “L’Inferno”.  This room is the oldest cellar on the property and houses both new bottles of wine and the very oldest wines produced here, going back a half-century or so.  There is just something magical about old, dusty wine bottles with their faded labels and old script.  They may no longer be good to drink, but they sure convey a taste of history.

 After our tour of the cellars it was upstairs to the wine shop to taste several wines.  The wines were accompanied by platters of local meats and cheeses, each chosen to pair with a particular wine.  There were also baskets of bread to dip into the estate’s olive oil – fresh and green tasting, it was as luscious as the wines! 

 Among the wines we tasted were an excellent blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sangiovese called Cercatoja. We also tasted Il Fortino, a 100% Syrah wine and their most prestigious offering. Along the way we sampled a crisp Viogne called Mio and – my personal favorite – the Buonamico sparkling Rosato,  IMHO it is the perfect summer wine. Throughout the tasting the winery staff encouraged us to pair the wines with specific meats, cheeses, bread, and even chocolate.  For a non-expert wine taster like myself this was helpful in identifying how wine changes with certain foods tastes – spicy, salty, fatty, sweet. 

 After the tasting we had a chance to purchase both wine and olive oil.  We all went home carrying something!

 Lunch at Restaurant Syrah was the perfect ending to a morning of tasting.  The food here is special and of course the wine is wonderful. Here are just a few lunch photos to tempt you!

We wandered around the grounds after lunch discovering that there are guest rooms which overlook the beautiful landscapes.  There is also a pool and spa on site.  The thoughts of spending a few days here are most enticing!

Koblenz: Where the Rhine and Moselle Rivers Come Together

This map from the Viking River Cruise site shows our route. You’ll find Koblenz where the Rhine meets the Moselle

Perhaps the most charming city that I visited on my recent Viking Rhine River Cruise was the small town of Koblenz. Koblenz sits at a strategic location – the meeting point of the Rhine and Moselle rivers.  In fact, the name Koblenz is derived from the Latin word for confluence.  The confluence of these two rivers was historically important both for military and commerce purposes.  Ruled at different times by France and Germany, the city has a meld of influences from both cultures. 

Koblenz also sits at the north end of the Middle Rhine, a stretch which includes stunning scenery. The landscape along the river showcases terraced lands planted with vines and lots of castles – making it both a UNESCO Heritage Site and an important stop on the many river cruises that sail up and down the Rhine. 

 Our Viking Ship, the Baldur, docked in Braubach (pictured above), a short bus ride away from Koblenz.  Some passengers headed to nearby Marksburg Castle, sitting high on a bluff above the river.  Others of us, my travel companion and me included, headed to Koblenz for a morning of exploring the city. Once again Viking provided a delightful local guide who knew the city well and was eager to share its history, culture, folklore, and special places. 

 Our walking tour began along the Moselle bank towards the Deutsches Eck, The German Corner.   This is the very spot where the two rivers meet. It is marked by a large open promenade, flags of all the German states, and a monument with a statue of Emperor Wilhelm I.  The statue was destroyed during the war and for many years only the base of the statue remained.  In the 1990’s it was rebuilt and today the park-like space also includes a memorial containing three remnants of the Berlin Wall. 

 From the German Corner, the city walk continued along the Rhine bank. Across the river the Ehrenbreitstein Fortess stands high on a ridge, accessible by a cable car that runs across the river.   The walk continued towards the Basilica of St. Castor (Basilika St. Kastor in German), the oldest church in Koblenz. 

Basilica of St. Castor (Basilika St. Kastor)

 The Basilica is a beautiful church, surrounded by trees and built above Roman ruins.  The facade is fairly simple, with tall towers at the corners.  The interior has an uncluttered elegance with ribbed and delicately painted ceilings, a beautiful altar, small stained glass windows, and some lovely artwork.  It conveys a sense of quiet peacefulness.

 Walking through town we encountered pretty houses, tree lined streets, churches, shops, and several delightful squares (platz in German). The squares had interesting fountains, historical markers, shops, and cafes.  

Small brass markers were set into the streets, marking former homes and businesses of Jewish residents arrested and later murdered by the Nazis. These were a sobering and moving reminder of the past. 

 A more lighthearted symbol of the past was the fountain in Willi-Hörtz-Platz. This is the fountain dedicated to Schlängel, the naughty little boy who sometimes spits at people passing by.  His image can also be found on manhole covers in town.  Who doesn’t love a charming but naughty little boy?

After the walking tour we had enough free time to wander the historic center of town, do some window shopping, and enjoy the interesting architecture along the streets of Koblenz. 

 It was cold and windy on the day we visited, so my traveling companion and I ended our day in Koblenz with a return to Jesuit Square. There, the Caffé Galestro provided lovely views of the square, a warm place to sit, and a great cappuccino. 

Koblenz was one of the most enchanting of our stops along the Rhine, a wonderful combination of fascinating geography, history, culture, and architecture.   Definitely a place worth visiting. 

From My Italian Kitchen: Pasta Primavera

“Piselli pigri” fresh from the market, with Tropea onions, mushrooms and asparagus

When the warmer weather of spring and early summer arrives, it is time to put away winter recipes and start cooking with the best produce the season has to offer. Later in summer, ripe tomatoes will take center stage as the basis for Caprese and Panzanella salads, but right now fresh peas and bright green asparagus are at the top of my list.

For the past couple of months both have been available at the markets in Italy.  Even better for me, I can buy piselli pigri (lazy peas) at the Ortofrutta (vegetable and fruit market) in Lucca. I call them lazy peas, but it is really the cook (me) who is pigra (lazy).  Piselli pigri are fresh peas already shelled at the Ortofrutta and placed in bags, eliminating all the work but none of the flavor. A lazy cook’s dream!

 The combination of fresh peas and asparagus, along with some onion (I like to use Tropea but yellow onion works just fine too), a lot of mushrooms, and a bit of diced prosciutto cotto (cooked ham) comes together to make a tasty Pasta Primavera (a spring style pasta). This is the perfect warm weather pasta dish, chock full of veggies and with very light on the sauce. 

 The little bit of sauce it does have, just enough to slightly moisten the pasta, comes from cooking the onion, peas, and asparagus in butter, allowing the veggie juices to mingle with the butter flavor. More flavor comes from quick cooking the mushrooms in hot butter in a separate pan. These ingredients are then combined with cooked linguine tossed in, yes, more butter. The last step is to sprinkle the pasta with parmesan cheese. The simple fresh flavors taste just like spring.

Notice the rough surface of this pasta - perfect for making the very light sauce cling to the pasta.

The recipe is quite flexible.  When fresh asparagus isn’t available I simply leave that out and increase the amounts of the other veggies.  No fresh peas?  Frozen ones will work too.  In the United States I use a thick slice of Virginia ham in place of the prosciutto cotto.  And sometimes, just for fun, I use cubes of crisp pancetta in place of the ham. This is a dish that lends itself to experimentation.  To get the best results, use the best pasta available. The one pictured here, La Molisana brand, uses a bronze extruder to form the pasta, leaving it just a bit rough and able to cling to the light sauce of this pasta dish. It also helps to use a good quality parmesan. Freshly grated is always best, though I am not above buying some already grated (another shortcut for the pigra cook). 

 The basic recipe serves 3 as a main dish, 4 as a side.

¾# linquine

8 tablespoons butter

¾ cup fresh peas, blanched for about 5 min (or use frozen peas straight from the freezer without blanching)

¾ cup fresh asparagus, cut into 1” pieces and blanched for 3-4 minutes. Medium size asparagus, a little larger than the width of a pencil work best.  If using really thin ones you may skip the blanching, if using really fat ones it is best to trim the thickest part of the stalk with a vegetable peeler before using.

The bright green peas and asparagus look just like spring.

¼ of a yellow onion, sliced thin

½ cup cubed ham

8 oz mushrooms (white or small portobellas) ,sliced thin. Love mushrooms? Use more!

¼ cup parmesan cheese, grated

Sea salt and coarse ground pepper to taste

Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a heavy pan. Add the peas, onion, and asparagus.  Sauté for about 10 minutes until the veggies are almost tender.  Add the cubed ham and cook to heat through.

 In a separate frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of butter.  Add the mushrooms to the hot butter and cook over a medium high heat.  The mushrooms should cook quick enough that they hold their juices in and brown rather than simmer. 

While the vegetables are cooking, cook the pasta.   Toss the al dente pasta with 2 tablespoons of butter and toss with the grated parmesan cheese.  Add the cooked veggies and ham with all of the accumulated juices. Add salt and pepper to taste.  Top with the mushrooms and a sprinkle of cheese.. Serve with some extra grated parmesan.

A crisp white wine goes really well with this pasta. Perhaps a Gavi, a Grillo, or a Catarratto. Enjoy!

Pasta Primavera

An Italian June in Photos

Finally, the first week of summer has arrived.

In Italy that means the start of warm humid weather, blue skies, sunshine, picnics, and beach days. And lots of tourists.

(photos above taken along the Ligurian coast, near Levanto, Camoglie, and Rapallo, June 2019 & 2022)

Early summer mornings and evenings are perfect for leisurely stops in umbrella filled piazzas for morning coffee or an evening cocktail. A caffé shakerato, cold and foamy espresso, is the perfect mid-day jolt of caffeine. In the late afternoon and evening, the tables in the piazzas are sure to glow with glasses of the bright orange summer drink that seems to be everywhere - the Aperol Spritz. Slightly bitter and sparkling with Prosecco, the spritz is quintessential summer in Italy.

June also means wonderful fresh fruits and vegetables displayed like art in the markets.

Summer also means flowers on doorsteps and balconies and on the terraced hillsides. In June there is color everywhere you look.

And let us not forget gelato! Whether in the city or in a little beach town, it isn’t summer without gelato. Equally refreshing is a granita made with fresh fruit. The best granita I’ve ever eaten was made with ripe mango and was enjoyed along the harbor in Camoglie last summer. I can almost taste it still.

Do you have some June in Italy photos? If so, please share them on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page. Give us all more inspiration to plan a June vacation in Italy!