Hello April

I know that spring officially starts in late March, but for me it is the first of April that marks the true start of spring.  When the calendar flips to April 1st, I begin to look forward to a month full of blossoms, green leaves sprouting on the trees, and the annual springtime events that take place here in Lucca.

Wisteria in bloom - a sure sign of spring

Usually, the month starts with warming temperatures that hint of beautiful days to come, even if April showers sometimes require umbrellas. But this year gentle April weather has been a little late in arriving. The first week started out downright chilly and windy.  I even needed to turn up my heat on few cold mornings, something I rarely need to do in April.

One Italian social media poster claimed to be uncertain whether Easter lunch should include a Colomba (the traditional Tuscan Easter sweetbread) or a Panettone (which is served at Christmas).  With Easter coming quite early this year, and the chilly temperatures, that is a reasonable question.

Some signs of spring are starting to appear, despite the chill.  For one, wisteria are blooming across town.  That is always one of the best parts of spring.

In the markets, both asparagus and shiny green pea pods have made an appearance.  The shops have been busy as people gathered supplies for Easter lunch.  In Italy that is typically a family affair. For me it meant brunch with good friends.  Some of that gorgeous asparagus was definitely on the menu, along with some pretty yellow freesias from the twice weekly flower market.

Best of all, Easter weekend brought sunshine and the first spring like temperatures. Finally !

The week leading up to Pasqua (Easter) is always busy.  Good Friday was marked by a procession that harkened back to medieval times as it wandered through Lucca, complete with the barefoot men of the Misericordia carrying a large crucifix with stops made at small chapels and roadside shrines.  Ancient and meaningful, with chanting and prayers, it is an integral part of Easter time here. 

In the Duomo (Lucca’s main cathedral), an Easter week visit gave me a chance to see the restoration work that has been completed on the Tempietto del Volto Santo, the small, 15th century temple where Lucca’s 1500+ year old wooden crucifix is usually kept.

The crucifix itself was restored last year and is on display within the cathedral in the workshop were the restoration work took place.

The Tempietto work uncovered layers of history and hidden decorations. Behind where the crucifix usually stands, remnants were uncovered of frescoes that reflect patterns that might have been seen in Lucca’s Medieval era silk works. The inlaid floor, marble altar, and blue starry ceiling are wonderful. All are viewed through the intricate “cage” of the structure.

The Tempietto was just recently opened for public viewing (through April 19th). In early May the process of returning the Volta Santo crucifix to the Tempietto will begin.

On the lighter side of the holiday, Easter displays decorate shop windows and the pastry shops are full of holiday treats - Colombas, fancy decorated cakes, and sweets. And the chocolate shops have no shortage of Easter hens, bunnies, and giant cellophane wrapped eggs.

Preparing the wheel of cheese for the Ruzzolone in Panicale, Pasquetta 2025

An Italian Easter is a two-day affair, continuing today as Pasquetta (Easter Monday).  Pasquetta is a day for fun, friends, and picnics.  Or, as I learned last year when visiting Panicale on that day, a chance to participate in the Ruzzolone, where big wheels of cheese are sent rolling downhill – winner keeps the cheese. 

No such event takes place here in Lucca, so I’ll have a quiet Pasquetta that will certainly require a coffee with friends.

I hope you all had a Buona Pasqua. May you sneak in an extra day to celebrate Pasquetta Italian style.  

Città Vecchia, Trieste

When I mentioned to friends that I was headed to Trieste, I inevitably got two reactions.   First was that it is a wonderful city with really good coffee.  Second was to watch out for La Bora, Trieste’s famously frigid wind which creates havoc as it roars down from the northeast.   During my stay I experienced both. 

The coffee was great, especially when sipped inside one of the city’s historic cafes.  Their elegant settings reminded me of Vienna, which is no surprise since Trieste was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire for centuries.  That influence can be seen throughout Trieste in the grand architecture, large squares, statues, cafes, and even in its culinary traditions.  Triest is a blend of Italy and those Habsburg roots which makes it a unique place to visit. (below, Caffè degli Specchi)

As for the Bora, it struck one day after a week of pleasant weather.  And when I say it struck, that is not an exaggeration.  The cold (with a wind chill down to about 30 degrees) and wind together just about knock you over.  I was very glad to have brought a winter sweater, heavy scarf, gloves, and a warm hat that covered my ears.  Fortunately, the Bora lasted only one day and then we were back to mild weather.

Piazza Venezia

But Trieste is much more than coffee and wind.  The Citta Vecchia runs along the part of Trieste that follows the coastline and is flat before the city heads uphill to Castello San Giusto.  Better still is its long stretch of pedestrian only streets that run from Piazza Venezia through the pretty garden of Piazza Hortis with the statue of Italo Svevo, and to the Piazza Unita d’ Italia which is Trieste’s grand public square (top photo).  Along the way are shops, bars, restaurants, pastry shops, and some interesting meandering side streets.

Locals call the 2 Moors who ring the bell atop the clock tower Michez and Jachez

The centerpiece of the Piazza Unita d’Italia is the 1870’s City Hall with its tall clock tower. Up at the top, two bronze Moors strike the bell to mark time. 

In front of the city hall is the Fontana dei Quatro Continenti (4 Continents Fountain).  Designed in the 1700’s when only 4 continents were known (Europe, Asia, Africa, the Americas), each is represented by sculptures at the corners of the fountain.  On top is a winged female figure, facing the sea, who represents Trieste.   

Removed from the piazza in the 1930’s (our guide said that Mussolini ordered it removed because he didn’t like the non-Italian cultures depicted), it was restored and put back in place only about 25 years ago.  Today it is a fountain without water, in part because when the Bora blows the spray of water would turn the piazza into an icy hazard.

Fontana dei Quatro Continenti, the African corner

From Piazza Unita d’Italia the pedestrian path continues through Piazza della Borsa (site of the old Stock Exchange, below).

Then it is on to the Grand Canal and Piazza del Ponterosso (look for the famous statue of James Joyce).  This is the perfect place to end a walk through town with a spritz.

 Further inland from the Gulf, Trieste becomes hilly with a steep climb up to its high point and the Castello San Giusto.   More on that coming up in future posts along with some of Trieste’s Roman History. 

Trieste at First Glance

Looking down on the Gulf of Trieste from our apartment building - a steep 15 minute walk to the Piccolo Università Italiana where we studied for 2 weeks

When a friend writes and suggests meeting in Trieste for some fun and a couple of weeks of language study, there really is only one correct answer - Si !!

That is especially true if Trieste is a city I you’ve never visited, in a part of Italy that you don’t know well. Both were true for me. Not to mention that my Italian grammar is always in need of a tune up, so two weeks of organized and directed study is always a good idea.

Add to the above the fact that Trieste sits right on a big body of water - the Gulf of Trieste. And, where there is a sea there is sure to be seafood. Having lived many years in land-locked New Mexico, anywhere with water and seafood is a big draw. No surprise then that on the first day there we headed to the waterfront for a first glance of the city. Or that my first meal was a wonderful Spaghetti alle Vongole.

Trieste is an important port, not only for Italy but for the central and eastern European countries, several of which have no sea access of their own. The center and surrounding areas are a center for shipping, ship building, and commerce. Trieste also has a harbor for smaller recreational boats. There is just something joyful about seeing all those small boats with their tall masts, even if the still cold weather meant it wasn’t quite sailing seasdurinon yet.

The strip of city along the water is also a place where people go to stroll, for recreation, and for dining. Turn one direction and see tall masts, large ships, and even an impounded Russian yacht which has become a sort of landmark. A series of bronze statues at one of the piers speaks to Trieste’s history.

Look further down the waterfront and find the old Aquarium (now an exhibit space). During my visit the Aquarium was hosting an interesting exhibit of objects made from recycled materials and some gigantic robots who were named for their roles in maintaining the environment.

Turn around and the city begins to unfold before you with ornate buildings, fancy hotels, and a historic square, the Piazza Unita d’Italia. Beautiful by day and even better when lit up at night.

Piazza Unità d’Italia in Trieste

There is even a rather short Grand Canal which leads from the bay a runs a little way into the city. It’s a hint of Venice in Trieste and a great spot for an aperitivo.

Trieste’s Grand Canal once moved goods into the city from the port. Today it is a great place to sit for an aperitivo or begin a walk through the pedestrian areas of Trieste

There is so much more to say about Trieste, but for now I am happy to just appreciate its waterfront.

February into March

Clear blue skies and orange trees, beautiful a this time of year

The week when February turns into early March is a fickle one here in Lucca.   Some days are downright gloomy with gray skies, rain, and wind.  If you’re fortunate enough to have a fireplace (I am not, I admit to a bit of envy when I see smoke billowing out of a chimney), then a warm fire, a cup of coffee, and a book are just the thing.  Then, suddenly, a day of blue skies and sunshine comes along, teasing the notion of spring, only to be followed by a chilly day with clouds but no rain. 

Even within the same day, chilly mornings still require the radiator to be turned on, while warmer afternoons encourage the opening of windows.  One hardly knows how to dress – winter coat or light jacket?  Warmest scarf or lighter weight one?  In Italy it is most definitely still scarf season – after all, no Italian wants to get that hit of cold air on the throat which surely would lead to illness. 

Should I throw my gloves in my purse when going out in the evening ?  Chissa! (who knows).  All I know is that I am not yet packing away my winter clothing just yet.

The view of Palazzo Pfanner from Lucca’s wall, is always a welcome sight on my return to Lucca.

The nice thing about this time of year is that, unless it is rainy, it’s perfect weather for a walk on the walls surrounding the city center.  The trees are still mostly bare, with just the tiniest leaf buds, but the wildflowers are beginning to bloom. The mountains are visible in the distance through the bare trees.  Mothers walk (or jog) the wall with babies in strollers, dogs explore the new foliage, little kids ride bikes and so do adults. 

Since I’ve just returned to Lucca after 6 weeks away, I enjoy walking through town and along the walls to discover what is new or for the reassurance that some things are unchanged.

In town, the Magnolia trees burst into bloom last week, a recurring yearly event that is the first hint of spring. They only last a couple of weeks (less is the weather is awful) and seeing them against a blue sky is nature’s artistry at its best. We were lucky to have such a day last week!

Magnolias in bloom along Corso Garibaldi in Lucca, last week of February, 2026

Flowering bulbs and spring herbs have appeared in the flower shops, and bright purple artichokes fill baskets at the ortofrutta (green grocers).

On the walls is a new art piece - La Luna Innamorata (The Moon in Love). Colorful and larger than life, the scupture is part of a wellness and health initiative of the group Amici del Cuore. Finding new art installations in “real” spaces around town, where they are accessible to all, is one of my favorite things in Lucca.

The Boldini exhibit will be in town through early June

Early March is also the time to anticipate what is to come.  Art exhibitions are ongoing, perfect indoor activities to be enjoyed on a not-so-perfect day. Soon, it will be time for the Camellia Festival.  Later in the spring we’ll have the annual spring garden show followed by a classical music festival in May.

For me, March means that I will head to Trieste next week. Trieste lies in the region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, one of Italy’s 5 “home rule” regions.  It is a unique area, part of Italy and yet more autonomous, with a location closer to Slovenia than to Rome. I am looking forward to spending two weeks there attending an intensive language program and exploring the region. I have been told to be prepared for sea views, windy weather, and great cafes with outstanding coffee.  Sounds perfect.  I’ll let you know!

February in Italy, 2026

Watching the Olympic Games in Italy these past few weeks, one would think all of Italy was a snowy alpine landscape. 

Lots of snow in and around Cortina d”Ampezzo for the Olympic Events.

But that is just a small slice of northern Italy and certainly not the case in Lucca, where I returned last week to wet and windy weather.  Not a snowflake or an Olympic athlete in sight, just plenty of rain and gray skies. No matter – I love Lucca in February when the city is quiet and mostly tourist free.  And this week has been very quiet, with the excitement of Carnevale now over and the season of Lent just begun.

Only traces of Carnevale remained when I arrived  – a few of the installations around town, along with some left-over confetti sprinkled in the piazzas.  All are getting a bit soggy from the recent days of rain. The paper mâché figures in the train (pictured below) are looking a bit scary as they slowly decompose.

Here in Lucca, even school kids know to carry umbrellas. This group certainly needed them when their school let out for lunch break on a rainy winter afternoon.

In this sleepy period between Carnevale and Easter most of the color comes not from floats and dancers, nor from spring flowers. Right now the color comes mostly from umbrellas.  Though I am happy to report that after two solid days of rain, today we have clear blue skies and temps in the 50’s. Tuscan blue is the perfect sky color.

February weather is just right for a caffè in an uncrowded bar, dinner with friends, or to watch Italy’s next big event on TV.

The San Remo Music Festival begins on February 24th, with 5 nights of televised musical performances.  Singers will perform original songs and eventually a winner will be chosen, in part from viewers’ votes.  The winner will represent Italy in the big Eurovision competition in May.  Past winners include some of Italy’s biggest musical stars and most popular songs.

This year a series of promotional TV ads, named Tutti Cantano San Remo (Everyone Sings San Remo), was filmed in the piazzas of 7 cities across Italy.  Each used local musicians and singers, in flash mob type sequences, singing well known Italian songs. 

Lucca was one of the chosen cities (along with Trento, Parma, Torino, Pesaro, Roma, and Cosenza) and many of us turned out to watch the filming. The ads are running now on Rai TV in the lead up to the festival.  It’s always fun to see the finished product, much more polished than the multiple takes we watched during filming. For a look at the ads, the San Remo Festival has a Facebook page, or just google Tutti Cantano San Remo - the ads are really fun.

As February winds down, I will begin to dream of Magnolia blossoms, warming skies, signs of spring, and an upcoming trip to Trieste in March.  But for now, I will just enjoy catching up with friends, sipping a cappuccino, and being out and about during Lucca’s quiet season, rain or shine.

Is there any color more beautiful than the blue of a Tuscan sky? Even the bare trees look gorgeous on a February day against a cloudless blue sky in Lucca.