Rothko in Florence

As if the beauty, pageantry, history, art, and architecture that is Florence every single day were not enough, the city also frequently hosts special art exhibits. There are many exhibit venues in Florence; one of the best is the Palazzo Strozzi.  Built around 1500, the palazzo is a stunning example of Renaissance architecture.  The building is a wonder, especially its central courtyard with its columns and arches, open to the windows and loggia of the upper floors.  After centuries of ownership by the Strozzi family, today the palazzo is the property of the city of Florence.  The courtyard often hosts small art installations, with the major exhibits displayed on the floor above, the piano nobile.

This month, and through August 23, the Strozzi is host to a presentation of works by Mark Rothko, one of modern art’s most well known painters.   The exhibit, curated by Christopher Rothko and Elena Geuna, spans Rothko’s career and includes works gathered from both private collections and museums from around the globe.

Rothko, born Marcus Rothkowitz in what is now Latvia, emigrated as a child, arriving in the US with his family in 1913.  His art career began in New York in the 1920s and over the course of his lifetime was shaped by many influences – surrealism, impressionism, war, religion, Greek mythology, spirituality, Italian classical art (especially that of Fra Angelico and Michelangelo), and his own, sometimes turbulent, life. 

 I was not familiar with Rothko’s early works which include portraits, city scenes, watercolors, and drawings.  I was drawn to them in a different way than to his later works. Above: Untitled (Woman in Subway, 1938; Untitled (Cityscape) 1936, and Room in Karnak, 1946)

I have a friend who, when visiting a gallery or museum, often asks “If you could take home one piece, which one would it be?”. For me, it would be the one below, an untitled watercolor, ink, and graphite piece from 1945.

This piece seems to dance across the paper; it is the one I would take home and be enchanted by every day.

As with many artists, Rothko’s style evolved over time. His later works are quite different from his early pieces.  The one constant seems to be his use of color as a form of expression.

It is his abstract art, known as Multiforms, which began in the late 1940’s, that was a later step in his evolution and which produced the works for which he is best known.  These are large pieces which feature dramatic blocks of color. Gone are the people, buildings, or indeed any figures at all. Below from left to right are works from 1951 (#12), 1953 (untitled), and another from 1953 (#2). Interestingly, Rothko did not name his paintings, leaving each person viewing the work to have his own reaction, without the influence of a name.

In the 1950’s and 60’s Rothko worked on several commissions, including a series of murals for a chapel in Texas (named the Rothko Chapel after the artist’s death). He also painted the Seagram Murals, a series originally intended for a restaurant in New York’s Seagram building.   Realizing that a restaurant was not the appropriate setting for his work, he instead donated several of the pieces to London’s Tate museum.  Sadly, they arrived on the same day that Rothko took his own life. None are included in the Strozzi exhibit as they are a permanent exhibit in the Tate Museum and only displayed as a group. Some sketches for them can be seen in the Laurentian Library as part of the exhibit in Florence. There are also some additional small works in Museum of San Marco, a link to Rothko’s appreciation of Fra Angelico.

Below are pieces from 1955, 1958, 1964, about the same time as the Seagram works.

The chronological presentation of Rothko’s paintings at the Strozzi allow the observer to follow Rothko’s evolution as an artist, being drawn in to what seems to be an increasingly dark mood as his colors change from bright yellows, vibrant greens and blues, to more somber dark reds and browns and finally to gray and black.  The two below are from 1969.

Rothko a Firenze is a well curated exhibit, with detailed information in both Italian and English, and a must see for those with an interest in modern art.  The gift shop has posters and cards with many of the paintings as well as books about the artist.

Wine Tasting in a Friulian Castle

Italy has 20 regions, 5 of which are semi-autonomous based on their history, unique culture, and diversity of language.  This designation provides them with a greater ability to manage their own governance, finances, and education.  One of these 5 regions is Venezia-Friuli Giulia, in the northeastern most part of Italy, bordering on Slovenia and Austria.  Local identity runs deep in this area (as in all of Italy), and the Friuli sub-region is no exception.  With a history that moves from the Romans to the Longobards to the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and finally to its inclusion in the Italian Empire, and with its own Friulian language, Friuli is a unique medley of influences. 

The wine cellar still has traces of previous owners

Mostly an agricultural area, Friuli is best known for its white wines.  A variety of grapes are grown in the region, with several DOCG and DOC designations.  The whites include Fruilano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc.  Some reds also are produced, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Pignolo, and Ribolla Nera, though they make up a much smaller percentage of the local wines. 

I spend most of my time in Tuscany, and the Lucchese wine shops tend to stock mostly Tuscan wines, so the Friulian varieties are not very familiar to me.  At least they weren’t until a recent wine tasting at the Castello di Spessa in the village of Capriva del Friuli, 25 miles and a world away from busy Trieste. 

The Castello has a fascinating history beginning with its construction in the 13th century.  Passed down as part of a 15th century dowry, it remained in one family for the next 300 years.  During that time it played host to several famous visitors including Lorenzo da Ponte, who wrote the libretti for some of Mozart’s most famous operas (including my personal favorite, Cosi Fan Tutte).  The  scandalous Casanova came to visit too but was banished after a romantic liaison during his stay (with a maid or the owner’s daughter – we can’t be sure). 

Ownership changed several times in the late 1800’s and into the 1900’s. Wine production began sometime in the years between 1925 and 1940. During WWII an underground bunker was built on the property, used first by Germans and later by Americans.  Long forgotten, it was rediscovered by the current owners who found it to be the perfect temperature for storing grappa. 

Down, down, down to the once abandoned WWII bunker. Today it is where the grappa is stored.

In 1987 the Castello was purchased by the Pali family.  They renovated the property, expanded the vineyard, and developed the surrounding land into a spa and golf resort.  Today they host events, weddings, vacationers, and wine tastings at the Castelllo.  Several of their wines bear the names of those earlier owners and visitors to the castello - there is a Casanova Pinot Noir, a Rassaurer Fruliano, and even an Amadeus Brut.

Delicate and sparkling, this was my favorite of the wines we tasted

Our group (all students at the Piccola Università language school in Trieste) enjoyed a wine tasting in the Castello’s tasting room. We sampled primarily whites (still and sparkling) and one red (a Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot blend).  Along with each glass our hostess provided information about the vines, grapes, and production methods. 

All the wines we tasted were very good but I had a definite favorite – the Pertè Ribolla Gialla Spumante, a sparkling wine made by the classic method (unlike Prosecco which is made by the Charmat method) with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. It was dry with perfect soft bubbles.  A delightful wine which had me wondering how I could possibly get several bottles home to Lucca on the train.  Unfortunately, that was impossible. 

A tour of the wine cellar followed our tasting. The cellars have a variety of rooms which contain not only wine but bits of the history of the Castello and some old winemaking equipment. What is it that makes dusty old wine bottles so fascinating?

As we left the Castello, our parting gift was a gorgeous tramonto (sunset). A perfect ending to a wonderful afternoon of wine tasting.

contact info: Castello di Spessa Golf Wine Resort and Spa. Via Spessa 1. Capriva del Friuli GO 34070 email: info@castellodispessa.it

One Spring Weekend in Lucca

Jazz at Caffè di Simo

Perfect spring weather has finally arrived!  Blue skies, temperatures in the mid to high 70’s, and slight breezes made for a wonderful weekend in Lucca. The weekend was full of activity and the city was filled with blossoms. There is no better time to be in Tuscany than spring.

On Friday, the first of a series of events took place at the Antico Caffè di Simo. The caffè has been closed since 2012, other than for a brief reopening for performances 2 years ago to mark the 100 years since Puccini’s death.  The historic café, with its elegant wood and glass interior, was a favorite “hang-out” for Puccini and his pals and looks untouched from his time.  It’s easy to imagine him sitting here, smoking (of course), and having great discussions with the literati of his time.  

This year a collaboration between the city government, a local cultural group, and the owners of the property will see the caffè opened for music, dance, and literary events on weekends from mid-April until mid-June.  This past Friday, the first performance was jazz with a lovely singer and an outstanding pianist.  At one point a man in the audience, who seemed to know the singer, got up and spontaneously began singing with her.  So much fun to watch!   No tickets needed, the free performances are limited only by the small number of seats in the caffè.  What a great way to start a weekend. Of course spring weather means outdoor aperitivi and the official start of Aperol Spritz season.  No one had to twist my arm to get me to enjoy a post-concert aperitivo on a pretty piazza.

The monthly antiques market is always fun to visit.

Saturday also brought the monthly antiques market, especially enjoyable with the spring weather.  The vendors are nearly always the same, but they bring some new and interesting items each time they set up their booths.  I still daydream about buying some of the bigger pieces of furniture (not practical with my small apartment) but have a hard time resisting other items - especially the vintage linens.

The local Misericordia (the ambulance service) hosted a Saturday fair in Piazza Napoleone. On display were some very old wooden “ambulances” alongside the more modern ones. Need to learn how to use a defibrillator? This was the place to go.

Sunday brought church bells and more great weather - a perfect morning for a coffee with a friend. We weren’t the only ones with that idea, as many of the pastry shops and cafes were filled with people enjoying the chance to sit outside, enjoying the weather and a simple breakfast.

Pasticerria Pinelli has a great spot under the arches on Via Beccheria

After coffee, a wander through town led to Piazza San Michele where the local Puccini Marching Band, complete with baton twirlers, was performing. The youngest twirlers were a delight. Always fun to watch, the music was lively and the crowd that gathered appreciative. (You can find a short video on IG two_parts_italy and on Facebook).

On a different side of the musical spectrum, a one-man band street musician entertained passersby on a street corner. From the look of his harmonipan, you might have expected some Ragtime music. Instead, he was playing a lovely Ave Maria.

It is hard to navigate around big tour groups

Spring weather also means an influx of visitors to Lucca.  Walking through town this weekend I’ve heard German, French, Japanese, and a variety of English accents spoken along with lots of Italian speaking visitors too. I enjoy meeting the visitors that spend some time here, especially blog readers who write me to say they are coming to Lucca.  I’ve met several of them in just the past week – all delightful.

The big tour groups however can be trying.  I admit to already having had a few moments of frustration with groups who take up an entire street, oblivious of people trying to get around them.  I am trying to remember to be patient, but I definitely do some mumbling about this.  An occasional Italian parolaccia (swear word) might creep in, sotto voce (under my breath).   If only I had a euro for each time I had to say “permesso” and squeeze by. Those euros just might overcome the worsening dollar to euro exchange rate!

It’s hard to beat a spring weekend in Lucca. I can’t wait to see what next week brings!

A tucked away garden in Lucca - a favorite spot to sit and read.

Cividale del Friuli

To enter the hamlet of Cividale del Friuli is to walk into a long ago era. Even more so when the day is misty, overcast, and feels a bit eerie. About an hour by car from busy Trieste, it feels a world (and centuries) away.

I went to Cividale, along with a small group of students from The Piccola Università Italiana in Trieste, on an afternoon excursion arranged by the school. We arrived to a spot overlooking the Natisone river which seemed to glow with an unusual iridescent green color. Not to worry though - the color is not due to pollution but is naturally occurring because of the minerals deposited by the water flowing down from the nearby mountains.

Il Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s Bridge)

The bridge across the river is known locally as the Il Ponte del Diavolo (the Devil’s Bridge) and of course there is a legend that goes with the name. Does any village in Italy not have its own legends and myths? Oddly, the story in Cividale is identical to the one told at the bridge built by the same devil just outside of Lucca. Must have been one busy devil!

Most of Italy was once inhabited by the Longobards

Much of the Cividale feels medieval but there are traces of earlier civilations too. The most intriguing part of Cividale’s history involves the Longobards. A bit of a history lesson is required here. After the Roman empire fell in the 5th Century AD, this part of Italy was ruled by the Byzantines until it was conquered by the Longobards. The Longobards had slowly moved from the north into Germany, Austria, Hungary, and Slovenia. In the last half of the 6th century they arrived in what is now northern Italy. Cividale del Friuli was the first Longobard Duchy. Eventually most of Italy, 35 Duchys in all, were part of Longobardo Italy.

Their empire fell with the arrival of Charlemagne, but traces remain in both the landscape and the language of Italy. Today, the group of Longobard sites scattered across Italy are a UNESCO site, with Cividale being the perfect place to begin exploring this lesser known chapter in Italy’s history.

My visit to Cividale was just one afternoon in a light rain that quickly became a torrential downpour, so I was only able to get a taste of all that the village had to offer. The rain drove us mostly indoors to two museum complexes. The first was the Oratorio di Santa Maria in Valle. Once an 8th century convent, where the daughters of noble Longobards might have lived, it remained a place for nuns through the 1800’s and continued as a convent and girl’s boarding school right up to the year 1999. Today it is a museum with a small chapel and beautifully displayed frescos remnants.

It also has something unique inside - the Tempietto Longobardo (Lombard Temple) . This very small temple, which dates to the 8th century, is a wonder. Small but soaring, the space seems perfectly designed for quiet contemplation and divine inspiration.

Tempietto Longobardo

Lined with carved wooden benches on both sides, it rises quite high with intricately carved lunettes, frescoes, and relief sculptures of saints. Large columns support 3 barrel vaulted arches with only fragments of the original frescoes remaining. But look up - the ceiling still has some beautiful intact artwork.

The Tempietto is unlike any other temple or chapel I’ve seen. The interior can be viewed through small windows from above on the upper floor of the museum. Small groups are admitted into the Tempietto itself, via a small and easy to miss door near the complexes exit / viewpoint over the river. If you can only do one thing on a rainy day in Cividale - make it this.

Our group also made a stop at the Archeological Museum. This is the place to get a sense of Cividale’s Roman history along with information about the various archeological digs in and around Cividale.

Roman era mosaics are always fascinating and the artifacts found in the various digs and gravesites were interesting too.

Cividale provides a great introduction to Longobard history and provides gorgeous views along the river. It’s a must-see place when visiting the Friuli area. Next time I will order a day without rain to be better able to explore the city center.

This path leads from the Oratorio di Santa Maria in Valle to a viewpoint above the river. How many young nuns may have walked this path?

Hello April

I know that spring officially starts in late March, but for me it is the first of April that marks the true start of spring.  When the calendar flips to April 1st, I begin to look forward to a month full of blossoms, green leaves sprouting on the trees, and the annual springtime events that take place here in Lucca.

Wisteria in bloom - a sure sign of spring

Usually, the month starts with warming temperatures that hint of beautiful days to come, even if April showers sometimes require umbrellas. But this year gentle April weather has been a little late in arriving. The first week started out downright chilly and windy.  I even needed to turn up my heat on few cold mornings, something I rarely need to do in April.

One Italian social media poster claimed to be uncertain whether Easter lunch should include a Colomba (the traditional Tuscan Easter sweetbread) or a Panettone (which is served at Christmas).  With Easter coming quite early this year, and the chilly temperatures, that is a reasonable question.

Some signs of spring are starting to appear, despite the chill.  For one, wisteria are blooming across town.  That is always one of the best parts of spring.

In the markets, both asparagus and shiny green pea pods have made an appearance.  The shops have been busy as people gathered supplies for Easter lunch.  In Italy that is typically a family affair. For me it meant brunch with good friends.  Some of that gorgeous asparagus was definitely on the menu, along with some pretty yellow freesias from the twice weekly flower market.

Best of all, Easter weekend brought sunshine and the first spring like temperatures. Finally !

The week leading up to Pasqua (Easter) is always busy.  Good Friday was marked by a procession that harkened back to medieval times as it wandered through Lucca, complete with the barefoot men of the Misericordia carrying a large crucifix with stops made at small chapels and roadside shrines.  Ancient and meaningful, with chanting and prayers, it is an integral part of Easter time here. 

In the Duomo (Lucca’s main cathedral), an Easter week visit gave me a chance to see the restoration work that has been completed on the Tempietto del Volto Santo, the small, 15th century temple where Lucca’s 1500+ year old wooden crucifix is usually kept.

The crucifix itself was restored last year and is on display within the cathedral in the workshop were the restoration work took place.

The Tempietto work uncovered layers of history and hidden decorations. Behind where the crucifix usually stands, remnants were uncovered of frescoes that reflect patterns that might have been seen in Lucca’s Medieval era silk works. The inlaid floor, marble altar, and blue starry ceiling are wonderful. All are viewed through the intricate “cage” of the structure.

The Tempietto was just recently opened for public viewing (through April 19th). In early May the process of returning the Volta Santo crucifix to the Tempietto will begin.

On the lighter side of the holiday, Easter displays decorate shop windows and the pastry shops are full of holiday treats - Colombas, fancy decorated cakes, and sweets. And the chocolate shops have no shortage of Easter hens, bunnies, and giant cellophane wrapped eggs.

Preparing the wheel of cheese for the Ruzzolone in Panicale, Pasquetta 2025

An Italian Easter is a two-day affair, continuing today as Pasquetta (Easter Monday).  Pasquetta is a day for fun, friends, and picnics.  Or, as I learned last year when visiting Panicale on that day, a chance to participate in the Ruzzolone, where big wheels of cheese are sent rolling downhill – winner keeps the cheese. 

No such event takes place here in Lucca, so I’ll have a quiet Pasquetta that will certainly require a coffee with friends.

I hope you all had a Buona Pasqua. May you sneak in an extra day to celebrate Pasquetta Italian style.