A Few Days in Argegno, On The Shores of Lake Como
Lake Como, Lago di Como in Italian, has long been special to me. It is the first place I visited in Italy some 20+ years ago. That trip is burned into my memory with exceptional clarity. I can play the memory back almost as if it were a film. The family-run Villa Belvedere in the town of Argegno, the view from my small room, the dining terrace right on the lake, my first taste of real Italian coffee served alongside a silver pitcher of steamed milk, the tall and elegant man named Eligio who made removing the bones from lake fish a tableside art form, and above all, those towering peaks surrounding the lake. Such a magical landscape. I returned four years later, to the same inn, at a time when I needed a reminder of what true joy felt like. Fifteen years after that I celebrated my retirement with another trip to Lake Como. My memories there are strong and nothing short of life-affirming.
Argegno, along the western shore of Lake Como
Now that I live in Tuscany, the lake is just a train ride away, albeit a train ride that takes five hours with three changes of train, but still much easier than a transatlantic flight. So when my sister came to visit me in October, we spent a few days in Lucca and then headed to Argegno on the lake’s western shore for a dose of lake magic.
Argegno is a small village (population less than 1,000), one of those wonderful spots close to a major tourist center and yet somehow blessedly removed. It escapes the large crowds of visitors that head for the more famous mid-lake towns of Bellagio, Tremezzo, and Menaggio or to Varenna, across the lake and served by direct train access.
Roman bridge over the river Telo in Argegno
Like most towns on the lake, Argegno has a long seawall running alongside the water, a narrow but fast moving street that runs north from the town of Como, and colorful houses that climb up, up, up the steep slope that rises from the lake. There is also a small harbor, an arched Roman bridge crossing the River Telo, which flows down the hillside and into the lake, and several cafes and restaurants.
Argegno’s tiny harbor
Argegno is also home to the Hotel Villa Belvedere, situated right on the lake (you can hear the waves lapping and the occasional fish jumping from your room) and where I have stayed on each of my trips.
The hotel has changed over the years, and I admit I still miss the wonderful Cappelletti family who ran the inn for several generations and welcomed me on my first two visits. I was pleased on this trip to find one member of the staff who remembered well the Cappellettis and the hotel’s history. The new Relais group owners have made changes - adding an elevator, a few “upscale” touches to the decor, remodeled bathrooms (my shower was party size - a rarity in Italy), the simple outdoor gravel patio is now a glass-enclosed room that serves as the dining room for the highly rated restaurant. They serve wonderful, seasonal meals - delicious from the appetizers straight through to dessert. Local fish plays a starring role (though there are many other options). I can highly recommend the lake perch risotto. Great food served with a stunning lake view.
The small bar with its perfect outdoor patio feels much the same as it did on my first visit, as does an indoor lounge - a good place to enjoy a late afternoon or evening drink on a foggy fall afternoon. The breakfasts are wonderful and include eggs, meats, cheeses, yogurt, fruit, cereal, and wonderful breads and pastries. There was even a delicious apple strudel one morning - a testament to the lake’s proximity to Switzerland. All good - and yet I must admit that I missed the quiet lady who served me that first caffe latte on my long ago visit; in her stead is a Nespresso machine, which is simply not the same as a lovely Italian lady asking, “Cosa prende signora, un caffe latte?”
Despite the changes, the hotel is still a favorite. It has a remarkable location, amazing views from the lakeside rooms (rooms along the street are noisier and less scenic), and a helpful and friendly staff. It retains its quaint character and offers a good value in simple but comfortable rooms.
And did I mention the views?
Staying in room No. 7 we had a small terrace (top photo) from which to view the lake, the small villages on the opposite shore, the comings and goings of the ferries, and the ever-changing light - sunrise, moon glow, dense fog, low clouds filling the valleys, sunshine. There were even fireworks on the distant shore one night.
Sunrise, captured from my room on Lake Como
One of the many boats which ferry passengers, and cars, across the lake
Just a few steps from the hotel is the dock for the ferry boats, which crisscross the lake.
In the second week of October they were already on the “off-season” schedule, which meant less frequent stops. But with just a little advance planning, and a copy of the boat schedule provided by the hotel, we were able to coordinate boat excursions to Lenno, Bellagio, and Varenna.
One benefit of a visit in mid-October was the absence of big crowds. Though the bigger villages still had plenty of visitors, the atmosphere was relaxed and easy-going.
Each village on the lake has a unique character and different visitors will have their own favorite spots. For me, I love staying in quiet Argegno with easy access to the other villages. I’ll write more about the villages of Lenno, Bellagio, and Varenna in upcoming posts. Stay tuned! -post by Joanne
Contact information:
Villa Belvedere. Via Milano 1 22010. Argegno, CO, Italy
Website: villabelvedererelais.com
Email: info@villabelvedererelais.it