Cycling - An Italian Way of Life
Fiats, Ferraris and Vespa scooters may be some of the best-known machines on Italian roadways but as anyone who has ever visited Lucca knows, the humble bicycle may be even more popular.
On virtually every street in Lucca - and many other Italian communities - you will find rows of bicycles.
With much of the historic center of Lucca off-limits to cars (except for loading and unloading), the sharp “ding” of a bicycle bell is more commonly heard than a car horn. Many residents rely on bicycles to carry them to and from jobs, shops and home. Baskets and saddle bags affixed to the bikes, in turn, help cyclists carry groceries, packages and many a small dog. Bicycles are also a big part of a worker’s life here, with cyclists hauling all sorts of items from food to lumber on their bikes.
Lucca, of course, is famous for the ancient stone wall that surrounds the center of the city. That 40-foot-high wall built long ago as a way for the city to defend itself from attacks from would-be conquerors is now the “Central Park” of Lucca. Its wide, tree-lined top serves as a running course, skating rink, pedestrian promenade – and bicycle track – for residents and visitors. In fact, one of the most-advertised activities for visitors is to rent a bike to ride le mura (the walls). Local bike shops – there are at least a dozen in Lucca – typically rent bikes, as well as sell them.
Tuscany, the province that is home to Lucca, has long been known by cyclists as a great place for their sport. Rural roads that rise and fall through Tuscany’s famous rolling hills make for a near-perfect cycling venue, and many tourists book cycling trips in this part of Italy. Professional cyclists also often turn to Tuscany when training (and famed cyclist Mario Cipollini, who was known for his sprinting ability, was born in Lucca.)
A bicycle is parked in one of the under-the-wall tunnels of Lucca.
Bicycles are such a big part of life in Lucca that many apartment buildings have bikes lining their ground-floor loggias or courtyards. This preference for cycling does not mean getting around Lucca by bike is always easy. The streets that are not clogged with cars because of the traffic limitations often are clogged with pedestrians – especially during tourist season and during the daily Italian ritual of passeggiata. From about 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. each day, you will find Italians throughout the country strolling the streets of their communities. It’s a way to walk and see each other – a seemingly unscripted yet still-synchronized moving social event.
In Lucca, the main street of town, Via Fillungo, and its arteries are often where residents stroll for passeggiata. Riding a bike at this time (or when several tour groups are on the street earlier in the day) requires patience and a lot of balance because the throngs of people strolling mean cyclists spend their time essentially sitting atop stationary bikes. Some people choose to dismount their bikes and walk the machines through the streets rather than fight the flow.
Bicyclists on the walls of Lucca
I became one of Lucca’s bike riders recently when I purchased a used bicycle from one of the many bike shops in town, La Toscana nel Cuore, owned by two former pro cyclists. I’ve been having fun since then cruising along the cobblestone streets of Lucca like a “real Lucchese.” -post by Judy