Italy, the Virus, and Us — Two Parts Italy

As we write this – in the days immediately following March 10 - the whole of Italy is “locked down.” Travel within the country is halted except for purposes of work or medical emergency; public institutions, including schools, libraries, and some municipal offices, are closed; and cultural events are canceled. Bars and restaurants are closed and residents are advised to only leave their homes to buy groceries and other necessities. When we do venture out, we are told to carry a government form self-certifying the reason we are outside in case we are stopped by the police. And when we get to the store or pharmacy, we no longer just walk in with everyone else.

At the neighborhood grocery store, everyone is required to don plastic gloves and the floor leading to the checkout stand is marked in 1-meter increments - something some people ignore or don’t see, but staff members keep reminding them with a “per favore, mantenere la distanza” (please keep the distance). Luckily, the shelves are well-stocked and we have not witnessed panic buying of food or supplies. (We’ve heard there is a run on toilet paper in the U.S., why we’re not sure, but because Lucca produces most of Europe’s toilet paper supply, there is no fear of running out of carta igienica here). Hand sanitizer gel is the only shortage seen so far.

Baci e abbracci (the traditional Italian greeting with kisses and hugs) are off-limits and sorely missed. People are following the edict to remain at home - and the regulation is necessary to slow the spread of the virus.

Even Florence, usually filled with visitors, is eerily quiet these days.

As far as general mood goes, we can only speak for ourselves. We are following the rules. We will self-quarantine if we show signs of illness. We are sacrificing the hugs and kisses. But we are not succumbing to panic. We trust the Italian health care system and the Italian people. (We have friends in the U.S. who report that they feel more vulnerable than we feel here). It’s not that we are unaffected by what is happening; it is after all a strange feeling to realize that you can’t return to the U.S. for the foreseeable future even if you want to. Living under these restrictions can feel isolating but isn’t difficult – we have plenty of food and water (and wine!), we live in modern times when we can communicate with others instantaneously and constantly if we want, we have access to books, TV, the Internet. Joanne takes comfort imagining herself as Cher’s character in the movie “Tea with Mussolini” - an American woman detained in Italy during the war. How much harder that would have been! Judy likes to spend time alone anyway so a lockdown isn’t that much of a hardship.

The wisteria will bloom soon, spring will come, and then summer. Hopefully the tourists will also arrive.

Regardless of how we react to the restrictions, we mourn for the people who have died from this virus, who are fighting for their lives, for the health care workers trying to help them, and for the tough economic times that this crisis has caused, the effects of which will be felt for a long time. Italy’s economy is dependent on tourism, and with the numerous postponements, shuttering of hotels for lack of visitors, cancellation of major events (like the final weeks of Venice’s Carnevale), closing of restaurants and shops, the impact is devastating.

And yet - we are still in what for us is the most beautiful country, surrounded by the music of the Italian language (where the word virus is pronounced “veer-ruus” with a lovely rolled “r”), and we are in the midst of friends who vow to help each other through this crisis. We have good Italian food and wine, beautiful vistas, and a sense of hope.

One thing is for certain - this will pass. And when it does, Italy will need visitors to return to help rebuild the economy. We encourage planning a future Italian vacation. In the meantime, we’ll be here, virus or not. Italy is home. –post by Joanne and Judy

NOTE: For the next few weeks, due to our inability to explore Italy as we would like and to help cement in your minds why you should visit Italy in the future, our weekly posts will be of photos from throughout Italy. The writing will resume when the restrictions on our adopted country are lifted. Thank you for all the emails and comments you have sent asking about us. Stay safe!