The Irises of Florence

If it is spring in Tuscany, there will be irises. This is especially true in Florence where native varieties have existed dating all the way back to the Etruscan era and where they grow wild along the river Arno.

An iris and a lily look very much alike, with subtle differences in the leaves and the number of stamens. It is the fleur-di-lis, in the form of a red lily (or is it really meant to be an iris?) on a white background, that is emblematic of the city of Florence. However it is actually the look-alike iris that is much loved by Florentines.

Each spring, for 3 short weeks, the Giardino dell’Iris (Iris Garden) in Florence, in existence since 1957, opens for an amazing floral display. A seemingly endless variety of irises, from all over the world, are planted within the walls of the garden which lies just off Piazzale Michelangelo, up above the city.

The color palette delights the eye with pure white, deep purple, yellow, orange, blue, rust colored, and multicolored varieties in waves of color across the garden. All are gorgeous, but the multicolored ones are especially wonderful. One color that is missing - a true red as in Florence’s red fleur-di-lis. I’ve heard that a special prize awaits the person who can cultivate such an iris.

A small marsh-like pond, added in 1967, lies in a shady part of the garden. Water varieties of iris, growing quite tall, thrive there.

The setting, with its many olive trees and stone walls, is enchanting. Add in a few rose bushes, some grasses, rustic wooden fences, and views of Florence in the distance. The setting for the garden could not be more perfect. This was especially so on a mild spring morning under clear blue Florentine skies. Sharing the beauty with good friends made it even more special.

Adding to the enjoyment on the day I visited was a group of young school children in the garden. They came with sketch pads and colored pencils and were busy drawing the beautiful irises. What an experience in history, art, science, and beauty for these budding artists! There were also grown-up artists throughout the garden, with easels set up and paintbrushes in hand.

After visiting the garden there was ample opportunity to admire the views of Florence, and the remains of the ancient city wall, from Piazzale Michelangelo. A downhill walk through the rose garden on the other side of Piazzale Michelangelo brought us back into the city just in time for lunch.

After nearly 4 years in Italy, I still pinch myself over these small outings. What a gift to be able to hop on a train for Florence and spend a spring morning admiring her irises.

The garden is open, free of charge, from 10 am to 6 pm April 25 - May 20th in 2022. Next year’s dates will depend on the weather and the iris blooms!