Flowers, Flags, And A Historic Caffè Make For A Busy Weekend in Lucca
Celebrating Lucca’s liberation from the dreaded Pisans in the year 1369 with a Medieval procession.
The first full weekend of April was a very busy time in Lucca. Multiple events filled the days, facilitated by warm spring weather.
The weekend activities began with Verdemura, the annual spring garden show which takes place atop Lucca’s historic walls.
The show always has an abundance of things to plant – roses, fruit trees, bulbs, a variety of flowers, and lots of herbs – and this year was no exception. The 2024 show included special exhibits featuring tulips of all colors, sizes, and petal types.
Along with plants, artisans demonstrated their crafts and booths were filled with wonderful things to purchase. Garden art, decorative home and garden items, soaps and lotions, and artwork were just some of things available.
There was no shortage of food products at the garden show. Vendors had everything from breads, to cheeses, salumi, wines, syrups, spices, and sweets.
Passersby stopping for a glimpse of the newly reopened Caffè di Simo
The first weekend in April also saw two historic events. The first was the reopening of Caffè di Simo. The caffè had been shuttered for 12 years, a cause for dismay in Lucca because of its historic importance. Originally named Caffè Caselli, it has a long and storied history as a gathering place for artists and intellectuals. Giacomo Puccini was a frequent patron and the reopening is for a limited time to host special events marking 100 years since his death. The opening came with an opera performance in a nearby piazza and a chance to briefly walk through the caffè. More events are scheduled through April and May, each with limited admission due to the small size of the caffè. I am looking forward to seeing a performance there later this month.
The last of the weekend events was the celebration of Liberation Day, marking the year 1369 and the end of Pisa’s rule over Lucca. The people of Lucca have long memories! They mark this day each year, on the Sunday following Easter, with great pageantry. Picture a procession with medieval costumes, ladies in flowing gowns, large banners from the various neighborhoods of Lucca’s historic center, drummers (batteriste), a zampognari (bagpipe player) and lanciatori di bandiera (flag throwers). Then add in some fierce looking Balestrieri carrying crossbows (balestre) and longbows (archi lunghi) proceeding through Lucca’s medieval streets. Watching the procession is to become a time traveler.
The procession eventually arrives to the Duomo (Church of San Martino) where a mass is held. Afterwards, it is into the piazza for some speeches and performances by the musicians and flag throwers. One flag, two flags, three flags are sent spinning around and soaring into the air to be caught and tossed again. One of the flag throwers managed 4 flags, employing both their arms and feet in the process, delighting the crowd that gathered to watch. (2 short videos are posted on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page)
A very busy weekend and a great way to welcome April!