Two Parts Italy

Summer arrived right on schedule in northern Italy, ushered in by the summer solstice in late June. One day we had warm but not hot, slightly cloudy weather with gentle breezes and the next day arrived 90 degree temperatures, full sun, and that famous Italian summer humidity. Is there a better way to mark the arrival of summer than a day trip to the Italian coast ? Not in my book.

The artist Kat Ring at work in Lerici. See her work at katring.com

My “welcome summer” day trip destination was Lerici, in the Italian region of Liguria, about an hour by car from where I live in Lucca.

Lerici is blessed with an embarrassment of riches. First, location. Lerici sits at the southeastern edge of the Gulf of Poets (Golfo dei Poeti in Italian), so named for the famous poets who spent time there (think Byron, Mary and Percy Shelly, DH Lawrence). It could just as easily have been called the Bay of Artists. A favorite spot for painters, it is common to see easels set up along the bay with artists painting away. On the day I visited, my favorite local artist from Lucca, Kat (Katarina) Ring, just happened to be painting on the promenade along the harbor. I can’t wait to see what she created!

Across the bay from Lerici lies Portovenere with its stunning sea views and charming little village. To the northwest, at the top of the bay, lies La Spezia, a port city, transportation hub, and the jumping off place for visits to the Cinque Terre. All of these places can be reached by commercial tour boat from the harbor in Lerici.

The harbor here is small and protected, home to many small to medium-size boats. Sitting harbor side, relaxing in a shady spot, and watching the boats bob in the harbor, is a summer joy.

Lerici is also home to long stretches of sandy beach. As is common in Italian beach towns, there are public swim areas and private swim clubs where the price of admission includes a big umbrella, a clubhouse, and often a bar/restaurant. In both the public and private spaces, colorful umbrellas dot the sand, people (mostly Italians) sunbathe, swim, and play on the beach. This year, poles are set up on the public beaches to mark “social distancing” intervals and the umbrellas at the clubs are similarly spaced. Closer to the town center the beach becomes rocky, with some parts reserved for local residents.

Lerici also has a charming town center set around a fountain and ringed with restaurants and cafes. The church bells ring, the cafes buzz with activity, and the palm trees sway gently in the breeze off the bay. Just off the main piazza, and across the street from the harbor side promenade, is a pretty green space complete with benches and even a carousel for the little ones.

No summer visit to an Italian beach town is complete without two things : a meal of fresh seafood and a really good gelato. There are plenty of seafood spots in Piazza Garibaldi; we wandered into one at random (and I forgot to write down the name! ). My frito misto included the local specialty of fried anchovies, along with the traditional calamari, shrimp, and tiny little bites of octopus. Delicious! And the gelato snob in me was delighted to find really good gelato, too - a combination of mango, strawberry, and a surprisingly delicious lemon-basil.

And as if all this wasn’t enough, a Medieval castle stands guard on a rocky cliff high above the harbor. Climb the steps through pretty narrow lanes up to the castle for stunning views out over the harbor (there is also access via elevator from the town up to the castle). Sometimes you’ll even find a special event, such as an art exhibit, inside.

There is so much more to explore in Lerici, that a day trip simply can’t include it all. There are hiking trails to discover, a walk between Lerici and San Terenzio (the next equally charming town to the south), restaurants to try, and drives along narrow coastal roads. A return visit is a must! -post by Joanne