The Garden of Palazzo Pfanner

Garden spaces in Lucca are treasures. They are especially important for those of us who live in small apartments without outdoor space of our own. Public gardens, and private ones open to visitors, provide the opportunity to sit quietly on a bench, to enjoy the peaceful beauty of trees and flowers, or to just breath in and out, finding respite from a busy day. 

Even better if the garden sits behind a historic palazzo, surrounds a fountain spraying water high into the air, and offers views over the graceful arches of the limonaia onto Lucca’s walls above. 

The limonaia in the garden of Palazzo Pfanner

The garden of Palazzo Pfanner in Lucca is just such a spot. A private garden, it is open to visitors for a small fee. It has long been one of my favorite outdoor spaces, a perfect spot to read a book, daydream, relax, and enjoy the blooms that change from spring to summer to fall. It is also a wonderful spot to listen to a small concert or enjoy a variety of events that take place at the palazzo.

Last spring and summer the garden was closed for major renovations. It has now reopened, refreshed and ready for visitors once again.

The newly planted grass is edged with irises and rose bushes. In mid-May, the scent of roses filled the garden.

The highlight of the garden for me arrives in late May and early June when the Hydrangeas bloom. Their colors, ranging from white to pink to pale purple, all set off by bright green foliage, are stunning. They are one of the garden’s best offerings and I was happy to find that after last year’s work they remained undamaged and in place, lining walkways and walls and filling the garden with color.

Many other of the garden’s best offerings remain in their original places too – the stands of bamboo which create shady alleys and hidden corners, the towering Magnolia tree, the large terra cotta pots of lemon trees, the classic statues, and the old walls that surround the garden.

One nice change is the addition of QR codes to the plant identification markers. Click on the code for a link to information about the roses, hydrangeas, camellias, and magnolias.

Only one change left me a little sad. The run down, unrestored small brick barn area that once stored beer barrels (back when the palazzo was a beer garden) has been restored. The old brick walls have been plastered over and the area now houses a new bathroom and storage. I miss the look and history of the old rustic barn (old, left, and new on the right below). But that’s a small hiccup in this otherwise spectacular garden.

What a joy it was to once again sit in this garden! (I can’t resist a few more hydrangea photos)

High Above Bologna

Bologna is a fabulous place to visit. With its miles of porticos, Medieval buildings, ancient churches, historic university, fountains, beautiful piazzas, and its very own leaning tower, it makes for a fabulous stop on any northern Italian itinerary. And then there is the food. Bologna is where filled pasta takes center stage along with salumi of all types and gorgeous aged Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. It is a food lover’s mecca.

Going through the Porta Saragozza on the train to the Santuario.

But high above the city lies something that many visitors miss – the Santuario della Beata Vergine di San Luca (Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca). And that’s a shame, because it is a place of beauty and history. 

The Santuario lies 4.9 km (about 3 miles) from Bologna’s city center, up a series of steep portico lined steps that begin just beyond the historic 13th century city gate of Porta Saragozza. To make the walk is to undertake a pilgrimage, one not for the faint of heart (or weak of knees).

But there is another option – a small train departs from Piazza Maggiore in the historic center of Bologna and whisks passengers (well, more accurately it chugs slowly up the hill) along the portico and up to the Santuario. I normally avoid little tourist trains, but I make an exception for this one which stops right at the base of the Santuario’s broad terrace. After visiting the church, riders can catch the train back to town. Tickets cost €13 and the journey up to the church takes about 25 minutes.

The arches of the portico leading up to the Santuario. There are 666 arches total leading from Bologna city up the hill to the Santuario.

The portico itself is fascinating. Built beginning in 1674, it has 666 arches under which are several tiny chapels (once upon a time there were many more). Each year, in May for the Feast of the Ascension, the Byzantine Icon of the Madonna of San Luca is carried through the portico down to the city where it remains for one week at the Cattedrale di San Pietro (Cathedral of St. Peter, Bologna’s main church).  The icon then makes a return pilgrimage, up the portico, to the Santuario. The portico protects the icon from the elements during its journey down and back up the hill. Even for the non-religious, this is a fascinating slice of Italian history and culture.

Just one of the fabulous views from the Santuario atop the Monte del Guardia.

The Madonna of San Luca (from the website of the Santuario della Beata Vergine)

The Santuario sits on a hill, the Monte del Guardia. Its terrace offers panoramic views of the countryside, the hills, and the city of Bologna.  

The church was built on the site of a female hermitage for the purpose of housing the icon of the Madonna. The icon, which first arrived to Bologna in the 13th century, was originally cared for on this site by the nuns of the hermitage.

Consecrated in 1765, the original building has evolved and changed over the centuries. The current church, with its columns, marble, and gold trimmings, is quite ornate. It is filled with beautiful paintings and sculptures. Seeing art inside churches, where it was intended to be displayed, is always the best venue for appreciating the work. The art in the Santuario is no exception.

When visiting the church, definitely look up. The frescoed arches above the main and side altars are wonderful as are the large hanging lanterns. The small cupola, painted by the Florentine artist Cassioli in the early 1900’s, is lovely.

The setting of the Santuario is quiet and peaceful. The views are wonderful. The history is one of ancient legends and devotions. It is unique and fascinating, a not-to-be-missed place when visiting Bologna.

When The Giro d’Italia Comes To Town

The city of Lucca went a little bit crazy (in a good way) this week when the Giro d’Italia came to town. The color pink, representing the Maglia Rosa, the Pink Jersey worn by the leader, appeared overhead in street banners, in window displays, balloons, and even in pastry shops. The pink of the jersey reflects the color of the pages in the sports paper La Gazzetta dello Sport, the founder of the race in 1909.

The biggest crowd gathered at the beginning of the route. Thanks to J. Nichols for this photo.

The Giro d’Italia is Italy’s Grand Tour bike racing event, with teams from many nations participating.  The Giro has multiple stages, taking the riders from sea level to mountain top over a challenging 3-week course. The rider wearing the Maglia Rosa can change with each stage, always worn by the leader at that point in the competition. 

The route varies from year to year. This year’s race began in Durrës, Albania and ends in Rome on June 1st, a total distance of 3,443 km (2139 miles). The rider who crosses into Rome wearing the pink jersey is the winner. This year’s stage 10, one of two time trial stages, began in Lucca, a very big event for the city.

The route took riders along Lucca’s wall as part of the time trial event.

An exhibit on the history of the Giro d’Italia, with photos of past winners and Italian racing superstars, was set up under the loggia in Piazza San Michele. It included an interesting display of old bicycles. My favorite was the bike with a coffee bar attached!

On the day of the race, souvenir stands sold race-themed merchandize, car and pedestrian traffic was rerouted, and Piazza Napoleon became the center of activity and the starting point for the event. 

The route took riders from the piazza up onto Lucca’s wall, about ¾ of the way around, and then onto Pisa, a distance of 28.6 km (17.8 miles). 

Because this was a time trial, the riders took off one at a time rather than in a large group.  Each was preceded by a motorcycle escort and followed by a car bearing the rider’s name and colors.  Fans lined the route, tracking the riders, cheering and waving the flags of various countries as each rider flew passed.

At the end of Stage 10, Dutch rider Daan Hoole had the fastest time to Pisa while Mexican rider Isaac del Toro had the overall lead and the Maglia Rosa. This was the final time trial of the Giro, now the riders move on across Italy and eventually to Rome. Who will be wearing the pink jersey at the end?

The Torre Guinigi all decked out in an Italian flag to celebrate the Giro d’Italia coming to Lucca.

The Colors of May

The month of May is the perfect time to be in Tuscany. April’s rains are mostly gone. The skies vary from clear, deep blue to blue studded with white clouds. Temperatures are mild and a bit breezy. Mornings and evenings are cool but the afternoons are warm but not yet hot. We are still having some rain, but the showers are brief and not nearly as chilling as the April storms.

Other than a few lamentations about allergy season, everyone is out and about in Lucca enjoying the beautiful, mild days. It’s a joy to sit outside in a cafe or restaurant or to sit and watch happy children ride the carousel. 

Best of all, the last few weeks have seen an explosion of color in Lucca. The roses are especially gorgeous, with large rows of them blooming in parks and public spaces. 

Flowers fill containers in piazzas, spill from window boxes, bloom in private gardens, and decorate balconies. Stands of star jasmine arch along doorways and walls or climb above terraces, filling the streets with the wonderful scent of jasmine.

 The wildflowers are my favorite. I love the ones that have found homes in the crevices of old stones. The delicate flowers blooming all along the walls of the fosso (the canal that runs along one of Lucca’s streets) are delightful. 

Wildflowers along the fosso

May days are perfect for long walks and discovering Lucca’s hidden corners, especially the ones filled with flowers.

Prato’s Museo del Tessuto (Textile Museum)

Tuscany is not all rolling hills, art, vineyards, olive groves, and Medieval streetscapes.  A different Tuscany presents itself in the city of Prato. While Prato does have a historic center worth exploring, it is better known as the center of a thiving textile and fashion industry. 

Displays in the Textile Museum recount the history of cloth making and the fashion industry in Prato, including the role of Chinese immigrants.

The creation of textiles in Prato goes back to the 12th century, but it was the industrial revolution of the late 1800’s which fostered the growth of the industry.  Another boom period came with the end of World War II when Prato became one of Europe’s largest districts for textile and clothing manufacturing. Prato’s role in textiles and fashion continues today, in large part supported by the Chinese immigrants who began arriving in the early 1990’s. 

The history of textiles in Prato is celebrated in a small but fascinating and well-curated museum, The Museo del Tessuto. Established 50 years ago, the museum is now housed in a historic building – the former Compolmi textile factory. The factory was opened in 1863 by Vicenzo and Leopoldo Compolmi in a building that formerly housed a mill (and before that a convent). One of the fascinating aspects of the museum is seeing the former factory’s collection of machinery used in the manufacturing process along with implements used during different periods of manufacturing. 

Displays throughout the museum explain the evolution of fashion and style as well as materials used during different time periods. There are displays on types of fabrics, materials used to spin thread, and agents for coloring fabric. Many of the educational displays are hands on, giving visitors the ability to feel how different raw materials are to the touch. I owe these displays a big thank you for most of the info contained in this post.

Recently, I had a chance to visit the museum and see two special exhibits.  One, Silk Treasures, showcases fabric, small remnants, larger pieces, and intact garments, from the 15th – 18th centuries. Many were originally designed for Europe’s wealthy class and later recycled into garments worn by the clergy. The fabrics are woven with gold and silver threads as well as intense blues and reds, forming intricate and beautiful patterns. That they have survived for centuries seems like a miracle. The Silk Treasures exhibit will be on display until December 21, 2025.

The second special exhibit is quite different.  It is a contemporary and futuristic display of clothing crafted from velvet fabrics.  Entitled Velvet Mi Amor, it was created by father and daughter designers Stefano and Corinna Chiassai.

The Velvet Mi Amor exhibit has an eye-catching group of patterns, colors, and textures.

The exhibit, which runs through June 8th, includes 24 otherworldly figures clothed in a diverse range of velvets – prints, patterns, inlays, and laser cuts all have a place.  The oversize pants, jackets, shoes and hats, all in velvet, pull you in to take a closer look. You may even find some hidden messages in the patterns.   

Prato is easily reached by train in about 30 minutes from Florence or 60 minutes from Lucca.  The museum, including its well-stocked gift shop, is definitely worth a visit. And Prato, which hosts Italy’s second largest Chinese population, is just the place for a post-museum Chinese food lunch.

The gift shop at Museo del Tessuto