Extra Virgin Cooking Classes at Il Molino

Chef Giuseppe at work

Here is a recipe for a wonderful day of cooking in Italy:

Start with Chef Giuseppe Mazzocchi (he makes the magic happen). You’ll meet Giuseppe, along with your small group of classmates, for a bit of shopping at Montecatini’s market. Here you’ll find fresh herbs, veggies, and just the right beans for soup. It’s a great way to start the day and learn about local ingredients.

This very old “hog-back” bridge spans the stream behind Il Molino

Next, spend the day at the historic molino (mill) where Giuseppe’s grandparents lived and worked. The mill property is over 600 years old and sits alongside a stream whose waters once powered the mill equipment.

Inside the old mill you’ll find a professional kitchen with lots of workspace. Here, under the chef’s guidance, you will prepare and cook authentic Italian dishes. If the day is chilly, there will be a fire burning in the kitchen’s large fireplace. Could there be a better atmosphere for cooking? I think not!

To make the atmosphere even better, enjoy some Prosecco while prepping ingredients and take a break to sample some regional olive oils and cheeses.

Later, when all the work is done, you’ll share a fabulous lunch with your classmates in the beautiful dining room, the spot which once housed the olive press. Today it is a rustic yet elegant space with a table large enough for all to gather. Giuseppe will select wines that pair perfectly with the food you’ve prepared. A member of the Italian Sommelier Association, he knows his wines and happily shares that knowledge during the meal.

A beautiful table setting adds to the enjoyment of lunch

Some of you may have done a class with Giuseppe at Extra Virgin Cooking when it was located inside the historic center of Lucca. Those classes were wonderful and inspired me to write an earlier blog post (from April 2022). With completion of the mill renovations, all of the classes moved out to Il Molino last summer. I was excited to experience the new location when, with a couple of friends, I signed up for a class this past October.

The cooking school is in the hills outside of Montecatini. Montecatini can be reached by train along the Florence - Lucca line. Coming from either Lucca or Florence, it is about 30 minutes to the Montecatini Centro stop. Once there, Giuseppe will meet you and it is just a short walk to the market. Classes include round trip transportation between Montecatini and Il Molino.

My October class took place on a chilly, rainy day so we enjoyed the fireplace while we prepared our first course, a Zuppa Frantoiana. This is a typical fall soup of vegetables and beans drizzled with the season’s fresh pressed olive oil.

We also prepared a beef based ragu to go with Gnudi, a light as a cloud ricotta and spinach dumpling. Shaping the gnudi takes practice and we all had fun learning the technique (but even more fun eating them at lunch).

Fall is funghi (mushroom) season, so we also made a risotto with several types of mushrooms, including porcinis.

I can almost smell these thyme scented mushrooms cooking!

Last, we made a wonderful classic Italian dessert - zabaglione. Rich with egg yolk, sugar, marsala wine, and whipped cream, it was topped with fresh berries. A perfect way to end our meal.

Everything about classes with Extra Virgin Cooking at Il Molino is special. From Giuseppe’s care and teaching, to the gorgeous setting, to the small group of students, to the shared meal of authentic foods and wines. For anyone interested in food, cooking, or just good eating, a day spent at the mill cooking with Giuseppe is a fabulous experience.

Classes at Extra Virgin Cooking are scheduled Thursday - Saturday, 9 am to about 2:30 pm. All classes are in English. Cost (as of late 2024) is €130 per person.

Contact info: tuscancook@gmail.com

Planes, Trains, and Epiphanies

It took me 3 planes, 3 trains, 2 airport shuttles, and an overnight in Rome to bring me from New Mexico back to Lucca a few days ago.  This was a considerably more complicated itinerary than my usual return to Italy. The why of it will be a familiar story to anyone who has experienced a long delay in the process of renewing their permesso (the permit for a long term stay in Italy).

If only the Befana delivered long delayed permessi

 My current permesso, which I have renewed annually for the last 6 years without difficulty, has been expired now since the end of August, caught up in bureaucratic delays.  Without a valid permesso, and possessing only the receipt as proof that I am waiting for it to arrive, I am OK legally to be in Italy. But boy is travel complicated! Without it, travel is permitted only directly between Italy and one’s home country. No stopping in any other Schengen zone country allowed.  Not even an airport layover to change planes is permitted.  That meant that my usual path into Italy – the US through Germany and onto Florence was not possible and I would need to fly from Albuquerque, where I was visiting my family over the holidays, to a US city with a direct flight into Italy. 

So, my return from New Mexico involved 3 legs – Albuquerque to Denver, Denver to Washington DC, and DC overnight to Rome.  Getting from the Rome airport to Lucca required a short train ride on the Leonardo Express into the Roma Termini train station, followed by a fast train to Florence, and then a slower local train from Florence to Lucca. This seemed a bit much to do all at once, so I broke the trip up with an overnight near the Rome airport.  So, 2 days of travel. 4 airports. 3 planes. 3 trains. 2 airport hotel shuttles. 1 hotel. Whew!  Luckily all went smoothly and I am now happily back in cold, rainy beautiful Lucca.

The stage is set for La Befana’s arrival in Lucca later today.

I have arrived just in time for the final event of the Christmas season here in Italy – the celebration of Epiphany.  Epiphany, or Three Kings Day, is the 12th day of Christmas.  It marks the day when the Magi, following the Christmas star, arrived in Bethlehem with their gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh.   But, they arrived without one important person – the Befana. 

The Befana is an old woman, portrayed as a crone or a witch.  The story goes that the three wise men stopped her to ask for directions on their way to Bethlehem.  She directed them along, but declined to accompany them for she had much housework to do.  Later, she tried to follow them but got lost.  Ever after she has wandered around, on her broomstick, leaving goodies in the stockings of good children on the eve of Epiphany. 

This Befana roamed the streets, along with a chorus and musicians, in Lucca on the evening before Epiphany.

In Italy, Epiphany is marked by re-creations of the Magi arriving in Bethlehem and by festivities related to the Befana. There are Befanas wandering the villages, Befana themed cakes, songs, dolls, and images.  

In Lucca, on the eve of Epiphany, a troupe of musicians and singers gathered to sing about the Befana (video on Instagram and Facebook). The Befana herself accompanied them, delighting children with her basket of sweets. The legend of La Befana is an old tradition that remains an important part of the Christmas season here.

 In Lucca, an annual event marks the arrival of the Befana in the Piazza San Francesco.  She arrives from a rooftop in the piazza (with help from the local fire department).

Each year her arrival is just a little bit different (photos below are from 2 previous years). Later today she will arrive and rumor has it she will come in Babbo Natale’s sleigh (I will be on hand to watch, look for some photos on Instagram and Facebook late today).  

The little ones will gather around as she tosses candies to the crowd on her way down from the roof top.  And they’ll wait to receive stockings filled with candies or other goodies. 

 La Befana - what a fun way to bring the holiday season to a close.

 As for the other meaning of epiphany – a sudden “ah ha” moment – I had one when I realized that the last two quarter century years have marked major turning points in my life.  1975 (the first quarter century year of my life) was the beginning of my “adult ” phase marked by graduation from college, my first professional job, a marriage. 25 years later, 2000 brought a big career change, the launching of my youngest child, and being suddenly single.  Now, 2025 is here, possibly my last quarter century year unless I live to be 97 in 2050. I plan to make the most of it!  I am hoping for joy in small things, some great travel, gentle opportunities for growth, pleasant surprises, and – finally – the arrival of my long term Italian permesso! 

From My Italian Kitchen: Lentil Soup for the New Year

Tiny green lentils, grown near Lucca in the Garfagnana are my choice as a base for lentil soup

Lentils (Lenticchie in Italian) are a traditional food in Italy at the New Year.  The round shape resembles a coin and those tasty little coins portend fortune in the new year.  And who couldn’t use that?

Since I love soups, my Italian new year tradition is a rich lentil soup filled with veggies and sausage.

 For this soup, the perfect lentils (both for texture and flavor) are the tiny green ones. Here in Italy I use ones from the Garfagnana, the area of Tuscany northwest of Lucca.

In the US, finding imported Italian lentils may be a challenge, but some type of tiny green ones can often be found in the supermarket.  They work almost as well as Italian ones in this soup.  Do they bring Italian fortune?  Hmm.  That I can’t guarantee.

Simple crostini are perfect alongside this soup. Good bread toasted, good EVOO, a rub of garlic and a sprinkle of salt are all you need.

Simple crostini - thin slices of toast rubbed with garlic, drizzled with really good extra virgin olive oil, and sprinkled with a touch of salt - makes the perfect accompaniment for this soup.

Here’s my recipe:

Zuppa di Lenticchie (Lentil Soup)

 190 grams small green lentils (1 rounded cup)

1 medium red or yellow onion, chopped

2 ribs celery, cut as small dice (about ¾ cup)

2 – 3 carrots, cut as medium dice (about 1 ½ cups)

2 tablespoons double concentrated tomato paste

¼ teaspoon course ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

200 grams pork sausage, crumbled

1 ounce container of Knorr vegetable stock *

 Cover lentils with boiling water, soak x 15 minutes and then drain

Cover drained lentils with 1 inch of water, bring to a boil and simmer x 15 minutes

Meanwhile, sauté onion in 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil until onion softens and is transparent. Add celery and carrots and sauté another 5 minutes.

Add sautéed veggies, spices, tomato paste, and chopped parsley to the lentils.

In a frying pan, crumble the sausage and brown until cooked through, add to lentils along with the Knorr vegetable stock or bouillon cubes.

Add ½ cup water and simmer everything x 30 minutes, adding more water as needed to thin the soup.

 *In Italy, Knorr vegetable stock is called Cuore di Brodo Vegetale and comes in a package of little 1 ounce plastic cups of jellied stock.  These are sometimes available in the US, but can be hard to find at least in New Mexico where I am from so I usually bring some from Italy.  If not available, just substitute a low salt vegetable bouillon cube or two or homemade vegetable broth in place of the water. 

Buon appetito, Buon Anno Nuovo

Happy Holidays From Two Parts Italy

It’s Christmas week – always a magical but busy time.  And this year, Hanukkah arrives on December 25th too, making it an even bigger day of celebration.  So, saying Buone Feste (Happy Holidays), as they do in Italy, is especially appropriate this year. 

Whether your tree is big or small

Whether your home has over the top elaborate decorations

Who could compete with the Christmas decorations at the Biltmore?

or very simple ones

Whether your holiday table is fancy or casual

No matter if you are eating latkes or lasagna, turkey or roast beef or just feasting on Christmas cookies!

No matter how you celebrate, I wish you the happiest of peaceful holidays filled with friends and family. I hope you enjoy the magic of candles and twinkling lights and perhaps a fancy glass of cheer.

 Buon Natale.   Buon Hanukkah.  Buone Feste.

European Christmas

Père Noël, the French version of Santa Claus, at the Notre Dame Christmas Market in Place René-Vivani in 2022.

Many of the Christmas traditions that we think of as American were actually brought to us by immigrants from Europe.  Even Santa Claus is an amalgam of several European figures. Saint Nicholas, England’s Father Christmas, and Holland’s Sinterklaas all have contributed to our idea of Santa. In a type of reverse migration, our New World Santa Claus now makes appearances in Europe. I’ve come across him many times in Tuscany and even in Paris where Babbo Natale and Père Noel have been joined by their American cousin Santa Claus.

We have Germany to thank for decorated Christmas trees, Advent Calendars, Gingerbread houses, and even candy canes. German-style Christmas markets take place across Europe, and similar holiday markets now pop up in many US cities.

Christmas Market in Rüdesheim Germany. 2024. Thanks to J. Gorwoda for this photo.

Nativity scenes arrived from Italy, where they are called presepe. There was always one in my home growing up, though it was much more simple than the ones I’ve seen in Italy. In Italy they take their presepe very seriously! The artistry in the nativity scenes is extraordinary.

Terra Cotta Presepe, Florence

Whether small table top versions, larger ones in churches, or the almost life size ones that appear in some of the piazzas, Italian presepe often include elaborate landscapes and figurines of all the villagers. The ones at the Vatican in Rome are some of the most elaborate that I have seen (below).

Heidelberg, 2024. Photo by J. Gorwoda

 With many of our holiday celebrations having their roots in Europe, it’s fun to plan a visit to the birthplaces of these traditions during the holiday season. But with so many magical European Christmas experiences to choose from, it is hard to pick just one!

One way to get a taste of Europe at Christmas is on a Christmas Market themed river cruise.  I loved the one I experienced along the Rhine with Viking several years ago. I have good friends doing the same one this month and I’ve enjoyed their updates (even if I am bit jealous). They’ve been drinking mulled wine, enjoying the scenery, shopping the markets, and tasting regional treats along the Rhine in 4 countries from Amsterdam to Basel, Switzerland. Thanks to them for contributing some photos for this post.

Coming from dry New Mexico, seeing snowy Christmas in the Black Forest was a treat for me on my Viking Christmas Market Cruise in 2012.

The city of Cologne hosts several markets, including one right in front of the Cathedral. The handcrafted items are wonderful! It was a great stop on my 2012 Christmas market cruise.

Arezzo, 2023

 I love visiting Christmas markets in Tuscany, especially the one I visited last year in Arezzo.

Arezzo’s market is the largest German style one in the region. At night, the city amazes with light shows projected on the ancient buildings.

Florence sparkles at Christmas. The market there is small but enchanting. The real stars of the show in Florence are the lights throughout town and the projections on monuments throughout the city.

Florence is magical at Christmas. This glittery street scene is from 2021.

Two of my favorite holiday markets are in France.  Paris lights up for Christmas. The streets, squares, and window displays are brilliant.  And the Galleries Lafayette - just wow!

Christmas along the Champs-Elysées, 2022

There are markets throughout the city.  The largest, in the Tuileries Gardens, is part carnival and part Christmas market.  Smaller, but perhaps my favorite, was just across the Seine from Notre Dame.  It was filled with handcrafted goods, local cheeses, art, and of course vin chaud (mulled wine).  Truly a feast for the senses! 

Strasbourg is another favorite.  Situated along the Rhine River, just across from Germany, it has a vibe all its own. This is the place to buy Christmas decorations, including the pretty hand crocheted ones that hang on my tree. It is a favorite stop on the Rhine Christmas market cruises.

Florence at Christmas, 2021

The list of European places I have yet to visit at Christmas is long.  Nuremberg.  Vienna.  Salzburg. Budapest. Naples.  

Christmas in London, though not technically Europe, sounds fantastic too.  After all, from England comes Christmas cards, carols, and the origins of eggnog (and I sure do thank them for eggnog).

It is too late to plan a trip to Europe for Christmas this year, but it isn’t too soon to daydream about 2025.  Even better, lets get busy planning!