An Evening in Venice

There are actually people who don’t like Venice.  Go figure! They find lots of things to complain about – the steps, the crowds, “smelly” canals, tour groups, cruise ships, pickpockets, the prices.  I feel bad for those people; they are really missing out.  With a little careful planning, an off-season arrival, and basic street smarts (canal smarts?) Venice is a wonder.      

Venice in mid-October. Lively but not terribly crowded.

 I recently spent one day in Venice, visiting from my base in nearby Padova.  Most of the day was spent at the Biennale Art event.  After seeing some of the exhibits, my friends and I took an almost-dusk evening stroll through Venice followed by dinner.

 We did not encounter big crowds other than in two spots.  First, on arrival, at the ticket booths for the vaporetti outside of the train station.  Definitely a spot to watch out for pickpockets.

The Bridge of Sighs

Next, in the early evening, in the area around the Bridge of Sighs and into Piazza San Marco.  The viewpoint near the Bridge of Sighs is where everyone stops for a photo. Other than those two spots, Venice was busy but not jam packed. Even Piazza San Marco, always a busy spot, wasn’t bad.

Piazza San Marco. As Venetian crowds go, this was great!

With my passport and credit cards tucked safely into my money belt, and a minimum of cash and a few other things in a small backpack, one whose zipper sits up against my back making it a not so easy target for thieves, I had no worries about pickpockets. This gave me the freedom to enjoy the views and take photos.

There were no cruise ships to be seen, thanks to the new rules which prohibit the biggest ones from docking in Venice. A great old sailing ship and some Naval vessels near the Arsenale were interesting and didn’t tower over the landscape.

Best of all was an amazing sunset view over the Grand Canal followed by a wander through the maze of back streets just beyond Piazza San Marco. 

 After a full day of art appreciation at the Biennale, and a stroll through Venice, we were hungry.  Luckily, we found Ristorante Central Venice, part wine bar and part restaurant. Located on a little side street, the atmosphere was warm, the staff friendly, the menu enticing (fresh seafood!), and the wine list included a good and moderately priced prosecco.  Perfect. 

 After dinner, it was time for a vaporetto ride back to the now uncrowded train station and a quick 30 minute ride back to Padova.  Our day in Venice was wonderful.  No complaints from me!

An Elegant Caffè in Lucca, Italy

Caffè Santa Zita with a view towards the Basilica of San Frediano

Most of the time grabbing a coffee here in Lucca means a stop at a local bar.  The coffee may be downed quickly standing at the bar or a bit more leisurely at a table. Going out to prendere un caffè (have a coffee) is a common way to socialize informally with friends and an almost daily ritual here for many. 

 But sometimes it is nice to get fancy.  When that impulse strikes, it is time to head to Caffè Santa Zita.  Located in Piazza San Frediano, and named for the Saint for rests forever in the nearby church, the caffè is a spot of elegance and old world refinement in the center of Lucca.

There is a small outdoor seating area in front of the caffè.  It offers great views of the Basilica San Frediano with its unique mosaic topped exterior along with great people watching in the piazza.  But for me the real fun happens inside where the entry leads you past a pastry case full of temptations and into a series of intimate, cozy, fashionable rooms. 

The pastry case is full of delicious treats.

Inside, the paneled and painted walls, classic tile floors, and beautiful furnishings lend warmth to the experience while the display of tea and coffee accoutrements set the stage for an upscale coffee break or teatime. 

Tea comes with a little dish of "miracles"

It is a bit unusual to find an afternoon tea service in Lucca, but the Santa Zita offers an English Teatime with an impressive variety of teas, tisanes, and infusions. 

Don’t miss the chance to taste their little “miracles” – small cookies representing classic Lucchese flavors.  They are named miracles in honor of the many miracles associated with Santa Zita herself. 

Beyond tea, the Santa Zita also offers morning coffee (with pastry of course), brunch, lunch, and an evening aperitivo.

Not an everyday quick stop, it is just the place for a bit of upscale lingering.

This flaky pastry is unique to the Santa Zita.  Called a La Giunchiglia (the daffodil) it comes with a variety of toppings.  My favorite is the pastry cream shown above but it also comes with chocolate, pistachio cream, or whipped cream on top.. 

The back garden is a pretty and welcoming spot for brunch, coffee, tea time or an aperitivo in good weather. 

Caffè Santa Zita is open Monday – Saturday  8 am – 9 pm and  Sunday 9 am – 9 pm 

Closed Wednesdays 

An evening of cocktail and music is a special treat at the Santa Zita Caffè.

The Flavors of an Italian Autumn

Fall color along Lucca’s historic wall.

 Is there a better time to be in Italy than Autumn?  The crowds have dispersed, the temperatures are perfect, the leaves are changing, and – even better – it is harvest season.   When I think of this time of year in Italy, my thoughts often involve the unique colors, scents, and flavors of the local foods. For anyone interested in food (and who isn’t?), the flavors of an Italian fall are a revelation.

 I think first of the scent of chestnuts roasting outdoors over an open flame.  Smells just like fall to me.  Chestnuts at this time of year are also ground and used in cooking.  There is castagnaccio, a dense cake made with farina di castagna (chestnut flour), olive oil, raisins and pinenuts.  Necci (my personal favorite fall chestnut food), are thick chestnut flour crepes, cooked on a hot iron paddle, and wrapped around a fresh ricotta filling. Add a drizzle of honey to the ricotta and you have a barely sweet, nutty flavored snack. Yum.

 Next I think of white truffles with their earthy aroma.  They may be shaved over pasta, eggs, or risotto.  Last fall I had some truffle shaved over a delicate pecorino flan.  The presentation was part of the experience. First the found-just-that-day white truffle was brought to the table under a glass dome. Then it was slowly shaved over the flan. The scent and the delicate taste of white truffle atop that silky flan was wonderful.

 The deep green color of freshly pressed olive oil, and that delicious aroma, is another fall treat.  To stand in a local frantoio (the mill where olives are pressed) as the new oil flows out of the press is the very definition of fall in Italy. And nothing beats the flavor of fresh-pressed local extra virgin olive oil.

For me, fall truly starts with my first taste of zucca.  Zucca is an Italian word that can refer to any one of the Cucurbita genus of plants – ones that grow on vines. 

This includes gourds, cucumbers, and squash.  Most often the word zucca is used to mean pumpkin.  And it is the foods made with pumpkin that mark the beginning of fall for me.

 Several pumpkin based dishes can be found in Tuscany.   First, there are tortelli di zucca, a pumpkin filled pasta. They are often served in a simple brown butter and sage sauce, sometimes with a few nuts on top. 

It may be a simple preparation, but there is nothing simple about the flavor.  Just a touch of sweetness in the pumpkin, wrapped inside a homemade pasta envelope, with the nutty flavor of the browned butter and a hint of sage.   It is a dish worth the wait for fall to come around again.

Then there is risotto zucca e salsiccia, risotto with pumpkin and sausage.  This is hands-down my favorite fall pumpkin dish. 

I especially love the one served at Trattoria Gigi, my go-to local trattoria here in Lucca.  The pumpkin flavor is subtle, never overwhelming, with bits of flavorful sausage in a creamy, perfectly cooked risotto. 

The ultimate fall comfort food!

A couple of weeks ago I was introduced to another pumpkin dish, vellutata di zucca, at Trattoria Cibrèo in Florence.  The velvety soup was topped with an artistic drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of crushed amaretti. 

Not only was the soup visually pleasing, but the taste was wonderful and the slightly sweet and crunchy bits of amaretti were an unexpected, but perfect, flavor enhancement.

 Just writing this post makes me hungry.  I might have to try my hand at making that zuppa!

A Venetian Style Restaurant in Padova

The bar area of Bacaro Frascoli, Padova

Part of the fun when visiting a new part of the world is experiencing the culture through its food. In Italy, each region has some common elements - freshness, local origin, and bright flavors - but each region also has its own special version of Italian cuisine. Think of Bologna with its filled pastas, Ligurian pesto, Tordelli Lucchese, Pici in Siena, Amatriciana from, well, Amatrice, Peposo from Impruneta. Learning about these dishes gives insight into local history and culture.

With so much of Italy surrounded by the sea, it is no surprise that coastal areas serve amazing seafood. In Venice, that seafood often shows up in cicchetti, an Italian “nibble” similar to tapas. These small plates are served in bars, bacari in Venetian dialect, especially as part of an aperitivo where they pair perfectly with a glass of wine, a Prosecco, or a Spritz.

The tradition of bacari and cicchetti fortunately extends inland to the town of Padova where I was delighted to discover the Bacaro Frascoli, a combination bar and restaurant serving Venetian style cicchetti and wonderful seafood dinners. The atmosphere is lively, with just the right murmur of voices. The staff is friendly and welcoming - come back a second time and they will greet you like regulars!

Today’s specials at Bacaro Frascoli

My first visit to Bacaro Frascoli was for dinner. The menu was enticing, as were the specials written on a large chalkboard. A separate chalkboard near the bar listed wines. The atmosphere was casual, but the food was elegant.

Dinner began with a glass of Prosecco, followed by an appetizer (shared with my travel companion) of gorgeous scallops in a fragrant herb scented broth, served glamorously on the shell and with slices of bread to soak up the tasty broth. You can bet that not a drop of that heavenly broth went to waste.

Next came a bowl of Spaghetti alle Vongole (Spaghetti with Clams). This is a simple dish, an Italian classic, and one of my favorites. I am just a bit fussy about how it is prepared and served. A good Spaghetti alle Vongole makes the most of simple ingredients - small clams, a touch of garlic, good extra virgin olive oil, a sprinkle of parsley, black pepper, and a bit of salt. The starchy broth from the cooked pasta adds a silkiness to the sauce.

No fancy additions please, and leave those clams in the shell! The dish served at Bacaro Frascoli checked all the boxes; it was outstanding. Fragrant, delicate, yet tasting of the sea.

Although the grilled fish specials sounded wonderful, I passed on another course. Ah, but how bad could dessert be if my friend and I shared it? The simple plate of biscotti (cookies) was served with a dish of cocoa dusted sweet custard for dipping. A perfect ending to a wonderful meal.

The dinner was so good that we decided to return the following night, this time to try the cicchetti.

The bar section of Bacaro Frascoli is up front and has a long communal table along with several individual tables. The counter displays a variety of cicchetti, small dishes to mix and match as either an aperitivo or, in this case, a simple, light dinner. Just mix and match what looks good, going back for more if you like.

There were several different types of bruschetta including a wonderful whipped baccala and one with gorgonzola topped with melanzane (eggplant). In addition to bruschetta there were a number of other dishes including octopus, polpette (meat balls), and variety of fried offerings. We choose some fried anchovies, tuna polpette, and an anchovy and cheese wedge. All were delicious and in combination with a glass of Prosecco made for the perfect light dinner. The spirited, casual atmosphere contributed to the fun.

It is rare for me to go to the same restaurant twice on a short trip. Usually I choose to sample a variety of places. But in the case of the Bacaro Frascoli in Padova I was happy to make a return visit. The two experiences were quite different - one a full meal and one a selection of cicchetti - but both were wonderful. I will definitely include this spot on my next visit to Padova. I hope you will too!

Bacaro Frascoli Via del Santo 93 Padova

email: info@frascoli. it

phone: +39 049 660 505

closed Mondays; lunch only on Sundays

An Italian Seaside Dinner

I’ve been back in Italy for a few weeks now and, while I love being in Lucca, sometimes I long for open spaces and the sound of the sea. So, when friends recently suggested an evening trip to the coast for dinner I replied with an excited YES! I didn’t even ask where exactly we were going - sometimes it’s fun just to be surprised.

The evening delivered a host of very pleasant surprises. First, a pretty back roads drive to Viareggio, about 30 minutes from Lucca. Then, Viareggio itself. Well known for its raucous Carnevale celebrations, graceful Liberty-style buildings and grand hotels, Viareggio is also a beach town. It has a long promenade along the water lined with private beach clubs, shops, cafes and restaurants. It’s a fun seaside town and in early September it still has its summer vibe.

After a short walk along the promenade, we headed to restaurant La Pia, inside one of the private beach clubs. Another surprise - this is no casual beachside restaurant. La Pia is elegant with all white decor broken up only by some greenery, the colorful beach umbrellas in the distance, and the evolving magic of a tramonto al mare (sunset at the sea).

Sunset in Viareggio viewed from our table at La Pia

Considering its seaside location, it’s no surprise that La Pia has a menu full of wonderful seafood dishes. How to choose between the seafood pastas, the fresh grilled fish, the fritto misto (mix of fried seafood)? In the end we shared a light and crispy fritto misto as a starter. With such a hearty appetizer, we skipped a pasta course and each opted for the grilled branzino (sea bass) as a main dish. It was perfectly cooked and beautifully presented on a pool of pureed vegetables. Some grilled eggplant and zucchini made a perfect side dish. The fish paired nicely with a glass of Prosecco.

I was determined to skip desert, really I was. But my companions opted to indulge, one in an gelato covered chocolate truffle and the other in Crepes Suzette. Dessert came with a dose of drama as the copper brazier was wheeled table-side to flame the sauce for the crepes. Delicate, not too sweet, and topped with tiny shreds of orange and lemon peel and a little scoop of gelato it was a good ending to the meal (I admit, I did end up sharing the crepes, so much for good intentions).

The food was great and the company wonderful. The sound of the ocean was soothing. But the sunset - it was pure magic to watch the sky turn red and the sun slowly sink into the sea.