Serendipity at Lake Como

Argegno’s Pasticceria - a perfect place to start the morning.

Having two weeks to spend exploring the villages along the shores of Lake Como was a luxury.  With that much time there was no need to plan every day in advance.  No reason to start out early every morning.  No hectic days racing from one sight to another. 

 Instead, we (I traveled with a good friend) were able to pace ourselves.  We often decided in the morning, over a cappuccino and pastry at Argegno’s Pasticceria, what we wanted to do that day.  We did have a few specific things we planned to do, but we mostly let the weather and our feelings about the day dictate our schedule.  Spontaneity works well when time is not a big factor in a trip.

 A long visit also allowed us to be open to serendipity – those happy accidents that can be the best part of travel.  Taking advantage of serendipity requires flexibility and a belief that sometimes the travel gods lead you to exactly where you didn’t know you wanted to go.  Or to an experience you didn’t plan but that turns out to be a highlight of a trip.

 On this visit to Lake Como, serendipity led to two wonderful experiences.   The first came about when the ferry boat we planned to take to the small village of Nesso was unexplainably cancelled.  The cancelled boat required a last minute change of plans.  Serendipity, and the boat schedule, led us to Lezzeno, a different small town of the lake and one I’d never visited.

Lezzeno, a quiet village with views of Lake Como and the hills beyond

 Lezzeno lies across the western “leg” of the lake, on the same shore as Bellagio.  Unlike Bellagio, Lezzeno is uncrowded and laid back.  I had no idea what to expect, but when our boat to Nesso was cancelled we simply said “let’s go and have lunch in Lezzano instead” without any prior research or planning.   Serendipity at work.

Just off the ferry landing is a small church with a pretty bell tower, a pharmacy, and not much else.  Walking along a winding road we reached a closed restaurant and a minimart and didn’t see much more town ahead of us on the road.  We were tempted to turn around and head back to the dock for the next boat to somewhere but we had a feeling that there must be more to Lezzeno.  A stop at the mini mart assured us that if we kept on we’d find beautiful views, a hotel, and a nice restaurant. 

Lezzeno

So, on we walked and sure enough, stunning views of the lake came into view along with old stone bridges and walls, colorful houses, and pots of flowers.

A little further on we came across the Hotel Villa Aurora.  The hotel has as a vintage vibe, a front porch facing the lake, and a bar with casual dining and an outdoor patio.  The hotel provides a perfect spot to relax, sip some wine on the porch, and enjoy some quiet time on the lake. 

Across the street, the hotel has a restaurant with big windows looking out over the lake. The panoramic view takes in the western shore with the promontory where Villa Balbionello sits, the surrounding hills, and comings and goings of all types of small boats. Outside the restaurant are steps down to an appealing beach club.  It looked very family friendly, with a large floating inflatable platform for sliding or jumping into the lake. My grandkids would love it there!

Luckily, we were able to get a table at the restaurant without a reservation.  

I ordered polpette di pesce. The literal translation is “fish balls” but that sounds, well, odd.  I would call them fish cakes – but they were nothing like the Mrs. Paul’s frozen fish cakes I remember from my youth.  These were light and fresh tasting and served with a delicate lemon sauce.  Perfect with a glass of white wine (after all, for lunch when on vacation in Italy, wine is permissible if not required).  This was dining with a view and we definitely lingered over our meal before heading for the next boat back to our base in Argegno.

 Serendipity struck a second time when we arrived to Tremezzo to the beginning of a very heavy rain. Much too stormy for a visit to Villa Carlotta, we needed a plan B as the rain threatened to last for a long while.  The options: take the next boat back to Argegno and our Airbnb or make a mad dash through the rain and duck into the first nice restaurant we found.  We opted for opening our umbrellas and braving the downpour.  Just down the street we spotted the No26 restaurant, part of the Hotel Bazzoni.  It looked elegant, upscale, and dry.  We decided to splurge and have a long lunch. 

Storm clouds over Tremezzo

Good decision.  The food at No26 was exquisite.  The restaurant was not crowded on that rainy day and the waiters were friendly, interested in why we lived in Italy, and willing to chat with us in Italian.  That made lunch even more fun. 

A further description of the food is warranted (but prepare to get hungry!).  The meal started with a little surprise from the chef - a small scoop of ricotta topped with an herb infused apricot jam. 3 luscious bites. We were off to a great start!

My first course was a soup course listed as a vellutata di ceci, capasante, cipolla rossa acidula e jus di coda di manzo, a long name that translates to a velvety soup of pureed chickpeas, scallops, pickled red onions, and beef tail juice.  That combination of flavors was nothing short of amazing.  The soup was thick and flavorful with one perfectly seared scallop in the center, topped with the onions, and ringed along the bowl with a beef reduction.  Topped with some little greens it made a gorgeous presentation. 

This lemon ricotta filled pasta was a delight.

 Since we wanted this to be a long lunch in hopes that the rain might stop giving us a chance to walk around Tremezzo, a second course was in order.   We both ordered the Lingotto ripieno di ricotta e limone alle tre salse e polvere di cipolla bruciata.  Menu Italian is so flowery and descriptive!  Translation – Lingotto (a ravioli like pasta) filled with ricotta and lemon with three sauces and toasted onion powder. Lemon is one of my favorite flavors and this ricotta was bursting with lemon peel and lemon juice. Topped with colorful ribbons of the different sauces with just a sprinkle of the onion powder, it was another stunning presentation. It tasted just as good as it looked. 

Dessert (remember, we were riding out a rainstorm for a couple of hours here!) was a tiramisu with cocoa crumbles. 

The tiramisu was rich – we were glad we were sharing it. Add in a caffè macchiato and it was the perfect ending to a special meal.

 A break in the storm gave us just enough time for a quick walk through Tremezzo’s lake front before the rain started again and sent us hurrying back to the boat dock for the trip back “home” to Argegno.

 Neither of these two experiences were planned.  Both took the place of other things we wanted to do but we gladly went along with the happy accidents the universe sent us.  And serendipity seemed intent of feeding us well!

Mid-August in Lucca

Last week, on the 15th, the Italian mid-August holiday of Ferragosto was celebrated. Just a few days before that, I arrived back in Lucca after a long visit to the USA. With all the angst that accompanies international travel these days, I must say I am feeling quite fortunate. Not only am I back in Italy, but all my flights were on time and problem free. My luggage even arrived in Florence at the same time as I did. These days that feels like a minor miracle.

The mid-week flower market in Piazza San Michele, Lucca

The all important receipt showing that my permesso renewal is in progress. I definitely don’t want to lose this !

In another stroke of luck, I was able to turn in my “permesso kit” - the big stack of documents required to renew my permit to stay legally in Italy - without any of the problems that many people have recently experienced. There has been a major backup in the Italian Immigration pipeline this summer. Some people applying for renewals were given appointments at the Questura (the next step in the permesso process) many months into the future, long after their current permesso expires. Worse, some were told no appointments were available at all and they would receive a text or a letter when one became available. Yikes - talk about stressful. While this delay doesn’t preclude staying in Italy during the waiting period, it does make it nearly impossible to travel to, or through, any other Schengen country while waiting for the new permesso di soggiorno card to arrive. Somehow, luck was on my side and I walked out of the post office last Monday with an appointment just 5 1/2 weeks later. I have to assume that my luck coincided with the fact that the immigration backlog is now beginning to clear.

I am happy to be back in Lucca. The heat is a bit overwhelming but I’ve been able to walk through town in the early mornings or early evenings, keeping to the shady side streets. And now that I’ve unpacked and turned in the all important permesso paperwork I am headed off for a real vacation at one of my favorite spots - Lago di Como (Lake Como). I’m leaving my computer at home, so there will be no blog post next Monday.

I’ll put some photos from Lake Como on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page over the next 10 days, otherwise look for me to be back on Monday September 4th with a new post and lots of photos from my time at the lake! In the meantime, enjoy these photos from my first days back in Lucca.

August, Relaxation, and Bicycles

Summer is prime time for all ages to bike along Lucca’s walls

It’s hard for me to believe that another August has rolled around. Where did June and July go? Like many, no matter where we find ourselves this month, I am a bit tired of the heat. Isn’t there a summer equivalent of Ground Hog’s Day to tell us how many more weeks of hot weather lie ahead?

In Italy, this is the month for holidays at the seaside, doing crossword puzzles on a lounge chair, celebrating Ferragosto with friends in mid-August, and taking time to slow down and relax. This week, as I prepare to return to Italy from my summer visit in the US, I am embracing the Italian attitude toward August and taking a bit of break. And while I haven’t even caught a glimpse of the Italian seaside this summer, I am looking forward to spending some time later this month at an Italian lake. Fingers crossed there will be some cool lake breezes!

Instead of writing for this week’s blog post, I have been looking through some old photos. In doing so, I realized just how many times a stray person walks into the perfect shot I had lined up, a car messes up a photo of an ancient building, or a big ugly trash can ruins the photographic potential of a little alley.

This fading fresco (since restored) is even more interesting with the blue bicycle.

The one thing that shows up in a photo and always seems to make a scene even more interesting and classically Italian is a bicycle. Lucca is full of them and they often show up in my photos.

A bike may be parked in front of an ancient vista, chained to a window grate, peeking out from behind a gate, or cruising along the wall that circles the historic center of Lucca. Sometimes the bike is just a serendipitous part of the photo and sometimes it is the main focus.

Bikes can be handy when visiting the flower markets.

It’s not unusual to see a group of bicycle racers flying around the walls or a couple of Lucca’s local police.

Some bikes are workhorses, moving goods - or children - around town. Some even deliver gelato!

Bicycles really are an integral part of life in Lucca. I can’t seem to stop taking photos of them! And here’s one that offers a glimpse of fall.

Fa Caldo !

Even the statues need shades with all this sunshine!

Whether you are in Europe or the United States, right now chances are you are feeling the heat.  In Italian we say fa caldo - it’s hot. 

Much of the world is experiencing a dramatic ondata di caldo (heat wave) which has many of us (me included) feeling more than a little bit grumpy. I am trying to run errands early in the day, the afternoon finds me staying indoors. I’m a bit envious of my Australian friends, for whom it is not summer but winter.  If only they could bottle that cool air and send it our way!

Italians have many expressions to describe the intense summer heat.  These range from the humorous, mi sudano le mutande (my undies are sweating) to the slightly profane (to be used only when it is really, really hot) un caldo della Madonna! Whenever the name of the Madonna (the religious figure, not the pop star) is used, well then, it’s a pretty serious complaint.  Perhaps it is more politically correct to say that there is un caldo bestiale, a brutal or beastly heat.

On a hot summer day in Lucca a Caffè Shakerato is essential. Either straight espresso or with a little milk, this iced coffee drink is just the thing on a hot afternoon.

This summer you could say si può friggere un uovo sulla marciapiede (you could fry an egg on the sidewalk) or sul cofano della macchina (on the hood of the car). In Texas last week, someone was baking bread in their mailbox.  That’s hot!

These very warm days have me thinking about all the ways to keep cool in the heat of summer, from cool summer drinks to no-cook meals to dips in the pool. 

It’s much too hot to cook during the day, so creative entertaining and dining are called for. Fancy entertaining is just not happening in this heat. An aperitivo happily replaces meal preparation. Better yet when accompanied by a crisp white wine or a tart summer cocktail! It’s hard to beat a spritz or a cosmopolitan sipped with a pretty Italian view.

A cold, creamy gelato is practically medicinal in the summer heat. And if a gelato is good, an affogato (ice cream “drowned” in espresso) might just be even better! It’s a real pick-me-up.

Sailing School, Rapallo

I’ve also been thinking of the different places I’ve gone over the years to escape the heat. 

The Ligurian coast, still hot but cooled just a bit by a sea breeze, is a wonderful summer escape.

With August just around the corner it’s a sure thing that the Italians will be headed for the coast.

In the US, coastal Oregon, with its rocky beaches and old lighthouses, provides a wonderful summer escape.  Even the fog was delightful.

The mountains of New Mexico and Colorado are a favorite summer vacation spot for my family. Cool mountain air, river paths to walk, lakes, and lots of fun activities keep my grandkids happy despite the heat. Truth be told, I am happy to be in the low humidity heat of the western US in the summertime and usually head to New Mexico to avoid the hot, humid Italian summers.

England and Scotland provide a nice break from the heat of summer. Even in August a light jacket or sweater might be needed. Better still if you can get to Edinburgh to celebrate the Fringe Festival in August. Fun performances and cool weather make Edinburgh a great summer choice. And the interior of those castles stay cool too.

Wherever you are this summer, I hope your strategies for staying cool are working!   As for me, I will return to hot and humid Italy in mid-August. You will find me cooling off on the shores of an Italian lake.

An August escape to the Italian lakes holds at least a promise of cooler temperatures.

Do you have a favorite place to cool off, or a favorite summer time food / drink? If so, post some photos on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page.  We could all use the inspiration!

Buonamico, A Tuscan Winery

My favorite local wine shop - Vineria Dolce Vita - in Lucca. They have a great selection of local wines. Ricardo, the owner, is a great source of recommendations. Plus I like this philosophy !

 One of the many joys of life in Italy is the abundance of good local products.  That includes everything from fruits and vegetables, olive oil, leather goods, ceramics, fabrics, and art.   And, of course, wine.  When it comes to wines there are plenty of great local wines to choose from. 

 When I say local, I mean really local.  Not just Italian, or even from the nearby Chianti region.  Not even the famous wines of Montalcino and Montepulciano, but wines directly from the hills above Lucca.  In fact, when I first moved to Lucca I went in search of one of my favorite Italian summer wines – a crisp white Gavi.  It was nowhere to be found.  And although I find it easily in the US, none of the Lucchese wine shops carried it.  When I asked why, the proprietor of the shop simply gave me a funny look and said that Gavi came from the area around Torino.  It wasn’t local, or famous, so he didn’t carry it.  OK then.  My search to identify my favorite local wines was on.

 I quickly learned that I could always count on a wine from Montecarlo, a hill town about 30 minutes outside of Lucca.  Both the Montecarlo reds and whites were good and worked well with a variety of dishes.  All the local wine stores and restaurants were well supplied with reasonably priced Montecarlo wines. But really getting to know the local wines takes more than just an occasional glass with dinner out or a random bottle from a local shop. The best way to get to know the local wines is to go straight to the winery for a tasting.

No surprise that the shops in Montecarlo sell Buonamico wines.

Since I don’t have a car in Lucca, it can be difficult for me to get to even the close-by vineyards as many are not reachable by train or bus.  That’s why I jumped at the chance to join an excursion to one of Montecarlo’s top wine producers, Tenuta del Buonamico.  The trip was organized by The Tuscan Wanderer – a local tour company run by Giovanni, with a big assist from his American wife Loreal.  They organize several tours to the vineyards near Lucca (and beyond) as well as non-wine themed excursions. Giovanni provided transportation for our small group to Montecarlo and arranged for us to tour the Buonamico cellars followed by a wine tasting.  They also reserved a table for us at the winery’s elegant Restaurant Syrah, where we enjoyed a special meal with – yes - more wine.  These small group excursions are a great way to get to some of the more out-of-the-way wine producers in the area and Giovanni always makes it fun.

Vines and Olive tress surround the tasting room at Tenuta del Buonamico Winery

We started our day with a quick stop in the hill town of Montecarlo.  Montecarlo is a stop on the Strada del Vino delle Colline Lucchesi e di Montecarlo (the Wine Road of the Lucchese Hills and Montecarlo).  It sits high above the vineyards of Buonamico.  After a stroll through the village, which is home to gorgeous views, an old fortress, and a small central street lined with shops, cafes, and restaurants. we made a quick stop for a coffee before we headed down the hill to the winery. 

 Tenuta del Buonamico was founded in the 1960’s by two close friends and restaurateurs.  The word buonamico means good friend, so the name of the winery is a nod to the original founders.  Today it is the largest of the wine producers in the area, producing some 400,000 bottles per year. They vineyards include the oldest Syrah vines in Tuscany.  Much of Buonamico’s production will make its way to restaurants and shops in the area, but some will be sold for export.  The setting of the winery is pure Tuscany – rolling hectares of vineyards, olive groves, and woodlands with classic views of medieval Montecarlo in the distance.   But the winery itself is quite modern. 

Montecarlo, as seen from Tenuta del Buonamico

 Our Buonamico tour guide provided a great overview of the wine making process. Once harvested from the Buonamico vineyards, the grapes begin fermentation in gleaming steel tanks, designed especially to fit the space of the winery. The process is quite high-tech and the temperature is computer controlled.  Glass tubes along the outside of the tanks provide a glimpse of what is inside – white, red, or rosato (rosato is the Italian word for what we would call rosé).  

 From the steel tanks most of the wines are then placed into oak barrels, never used more than 3 times. The oak barrels then go into the cellar to continue to age.

Not all of the wine goes into the oak barrels. Instead some, about 140,000 bottles worth, is used to make spumante (sparkling) wines.  There is a separate area where the “bubbles” are fermented, using the Charmat method.  As our tour guide explained, this method involves secondary fermentation in a steel tank, whereas in the traditional champagne method the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.  The Charmat method is also used in making Prosecco.  But don’t call these sparkling whites Prosecco! That name is reserved for wines produced in a different and specially designated area.   At Tenuta del Buonamico they make two varieties of Spumante - both a sparkling white and a sparkling rosé. 

 One of the most enchanting parts of the winery tour took us into the cellar named “L’Inferno”.  This room is the oldest cellar on the property and houses both new bottles of wine and the very oldest wines produced here, going back a half-century or so.  There is just something magical about old, dusty wine bottles with their faded labels and old script.  They may no longer be good to drink, but they sure convey a taste of history.

 After our tour of the cellars it was upstairs to the wine shop to taste several wines.  The wines were accompanied by platters of local meats and cheeses, each chosen to pair with a particular wine.  There were also baskets of bread to dip into the estate’s olive oil – fresh and green tasting, it was as luscious as the wines! 

 Among the wines we tasted were an excellent blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sangiovese called Cercatoja. We also tasted Il Fortino, a 100% Syrah wine and their most prestigious offering. Along the way we sampled a crisp Viogne called Mio and – my personal favorite – the Buonamico sparkling Rosato,  IMHO it is the perfect summer wine. Throughout the tasting the winery staff encouraged us to pair the wines with specific meats, cheeses, bread, and even chocolate.  For a non-expert wine taster like myself this was helpful in identifying how wine changes with certain foods tastes – spicy, salty, fatty, sweet. 

 After the tasting we had a chance to purchase both wine and olive oil.  We all went home carrying something!

 Lunch at Restaurant Syrah was the perfect ending to a morning of tasting.  The food here is special and of course the wine is wonderful. Here are just a few lunch photos to tempt you!

We wandered around the grounds after lunch discovering that there are guest rooms which overlook the beautiful landscapes.  There is also a pool and spa on site.  The thoughts of spending a few days here are most enticing!