Exploring Argegno's Back Streets

Argegno’s waterfront. The green building is where the ferries dock.

Don’t you find that “firsts” leave lasting impressions?  First day of school, first love, first taste of olive oil fresh from the press, first home, first big purchase with your own money, first Christmas with a new baby, first bottle of really good wine.  All of these firsts are important milestones in life and treasured memories. 

One of my memorable firsts is the first time I traveled to Italy.  I arrived in 1996 to one of the most beautiful places on earth – Lake Como in northern Italy.   I had no idea that when I first went to the small lake-side town of Argegno that I was embarking on a life-long love affair with a town, a lake, a country, and a way of life. 

I don’t know whether it was the stunning views, the sound of water lapping at the shoreline, the feeling of the wind as I traveled by boat across the lake, the friendly people, or dinners with fish fresh from the lake. Somehow they added up to magic.   Since that first trip I have visited Argegno a number of times and found a little something new to enjoy each time I visit. 

In Argegno, most of the action takes place right along the lakefront.  That’s where the main piazza sits, ringed with cafes, bars, and restaurants. It’s also where to find the morning hotspot - the really good Pasticceria and Caffè (officially called Pasticceria Grandi).  Its old wooden display cabinets, pretty bar, and wonderful aromas, along with a view of the lake, make it the perfect place to begin a day in Argegno. Even the neighborhood cat stops by!

Santissima Trinit Church, Argegno

The lakefront is also where the ferries stop to pick up passengers, carrying them to some of the better known towns along the lake. The wonderful hotel Villa Belvedere sits right at the edge of the lake in Argegno.  So does the local church of Santissima Trinità (The Holy Trinity).  Even the Monday market is set up next to the small harbor that fronts the lake.  All of these things are definitely worth exploring.

 But it would be a shame to stick only to the lakefront because Argegno’s back streets are fascinating. The mostly pedestrian lanes lead to mysterious dark passageways and alleys meandering up into the hills above town.

A wander towards the river Telo, which runs from up in the surrounding hills right into the lake, leads to an ancient stone bridge. Often there is just a trickle of water in this part of the Telo, but after a good rain the river swells and water flows quickly under the bridge. Standing on the bridge gives views of the houses further up along the river as well as views down to where the river meets the lake.

Argegno’s small lanes are filled with worn old doors, pretty flower boxes, and homes built where old mills once stood. 

There is so much to appreciate in the streets where few visitors wander.  Those back streets and steep alleys also provide some spectacular views high over the lake and a quiet escape from the lively Piazza Roma on the lakefront. 

Most visitors spend just a few days at Lake Como, exploring the famous towns of Bellagio, Tremezzo, and Varenna. But a longer stay provides a chance to explore the hidden spots in the smaller villages such as Argegno. Argegno was my first Italian experience, an introduction to a very different life. It still enchants and inspires me.

A Day in Bellagio

Bellagio is the most famous of the towns along the shores of Lake Como. It is considered a touristic “must see” and has more visitors than any of the other towns.  Blessed by an enviable location, Bellagio sits at the very spot where the lower lake splits into two branches, Lake Como continuing to the southwest and Lake Lecco to the southeast.  The dividing spot at the tip of the peninsula is named the Punta Spartivento, the point where the wind divides.  The views of the lake from this spot are hard to beat.

A Traghetto (car ferry) is one type of ferry that brings visitors to Bellagio.

With such a prime location, and with frequent boats ferrying visitors between Bellagio and the other mid-lake cities, Bellagio has a little something for everyone – stunning scenery, a flower filled waterfront promenade, beautiful hotels, wine tasting, fine dining, and some great shopping.

There is an upper part of town, along Via Garibaldi, and a lower part along the lake shore. The two are connected by a series of “streets” which are not streets at all but staircases.  Salita Serbelloni is the most famous of these staircases.  This wide series of steps, lined with shops, galleries and restaurants, leads from Via Garibaldi in the upper portion of Bellagio down to the waterfront.  The views are fabulous and the shops have beautiful things, but beware - the often crowded steps and lack of handrails are not ideal for anyone with balance or mobility issues.  Sure-footed people seem to bounce up and down the steps with ease, often stopping for photos of the lake view and selfies. 

Salita Serbelloni

For anyone wanting to avoid the stairs, it is possible to reach the upper portion of Bellagio by walking left when exiting the boat dock, past the pretty Hotel Villa Serbelloni, and up Via Roma where a sidewalk leads more gently up the hill to Via Garibaldi. I like to follow that path, explore the upper part of Bellagio, and then take one of the less crowded staircases at the far end of Via Garibaldi down to the lake front. 

San Giacomo Church

Near the north end of Via Garibaldi is Piazza della Chiesa, home to the church of San Giacomo.  The stone church, built in the 11th century, is plain on the outside but the inside shines with gold adornments – mosaics, an ornate golden altar, and a shimmering apse.  When the bells ring the entire piazza is filled with their beautiful sound. 

Piazza della Chiesa has a central fountain, an ancient tower, and a ring of shops, art galleries, and cafes.  It’s a great spot to stop for a coffee or to begin some serious Bellagio shopping. My first shopping stop was in the L’Angelo delle Idea, filled with hand made glass pieces and glass Christmas ornaments (always a good souvenir). 

Continue down the narrow street to find a variety of shops.  If in need of provisions for the kitchen, they can be found at the fruttivendolo (green grocer), the Macellaria e Salumeria (butcher and deli shop), or the shop selling fresh pastas.  You’ll also find shops with beautiful silks, good quality handbags, shoes, and jewelry. 

My favorite shop, and one of the best for good quality souvenirs, is the Bottega di Legno della Famiglia Tacchi, situated near the top of the Salita Serbelloni.  The Tacchi family have been woodworkers since 1855.  The shop is is one of the oldest in Bellagio.  Here you’ll find beautiful wood housewares (don’t miss the rolling pins!), wooden toys, Christmas ornaments and beautifully carved nativities along with an assortment of other wooden products.  Peak into the back room with its workbench and old tools and you can imagine a long ago craftsmen at work. 

 After exploring Via Garibaldi, a walk down any one of the Salitas leads down to the waterfront.  Salita Genazzini (a few minutes walk past Salita Serbelloni) is a good choice.  Not only is it narrower and less crowded, but it leads to my favorite spot for a light lunch or a wine tasting, Enoteca Cava Turacciolo..  Inside, the low stone ceilings, wooden tables and rows upon rows of wine bottles provide a moody, cozy atmosphere.  In warm weather, small tables sit outside and run up the steps of the salita.  The generous platters of meats and cheeses, along with bread and buttery green olives, paired with a choice from over 300 wines, is a perfect Bellagio lunch and a great break before exploring the waterfront areas.

From the base of Salita Genazzi, a left turn leads to Bellagio’s pretty lakeside promenade lined with trees, flowers, and wonderful views.  Stop for a minute at the memorial commemorating a visit by President Kennedy in June of 1963. Further on are the gardens of Villa Melzi.  

A right turns leads back toward the ferry stops.  Bellagio has two – one for the traghetti (car ferries) and one for the passenger ferries.  Along the way are more shops and a covered passageway (a nice break from the summer sun) with upscale shops, mostly aimed at tourists, and restaurants.

Bellagio’s ferry docks get crowded in high season - best to arrive well before departure time.

Many tourists make a quick stop in Bellagio and then hurry on to the next village on a hop-on, hop-off boat tour of the lake.  I prefer to spend a full day in Bellagio with plenty of time to wander, enjoy the scenery, stop for a coffee or a gelato (maybe both), visit the church, have a leisurely lunch, do some shopping, and take a late ferry back to my home base in Argegno. No matter which plan suits your travel style, Bellagio is definitely a lake town worth visiting.

Serendipity at Lake Como

Argegno’s Pasticceria - a perfect place to start the morning.

Having two weeks to spend exploring the villages along the shores of Lake Como was a luxury.  With that much time there was no need to plan every day in advance.  No reason to start out early every morning.  No hectic days racing from one sight to another. 

 Instead, we (I traveled with a good friend) were able to pace ourselves.  We often decided in the morning, over a cappuccino and pastry at Argegno’s Pasticceria, what we wanted to do that day.  We did have a few specific things we planned to do, but we mostly let the weather and our feelings about the day dictate our schedule.  Spontaneity works well when time is not a big factor in a trip.

 A long visit also allowed us to be open to serendipity – those happy accidents that can be the best part of travel.  Taking advantage of serendipity requires flexibility and a belief that sometimes the travel gods lead you to exactly where you didn’t know you wanted to go.  Or to an experience you didn’t plan but that turns out to be a highlight of a trip.

 On this visit to Lake Como, serendipity led to two wonderful experiences.   The first came about when the ferry boat we planned to take to the small village of Nesso was unexplainably cancelled.  The cancelled boat required a last minute change of plans.  Serendipity, and the boat schedule, led us to Lezzeno, a different small town of the lake and one I’d never visited.

Lezzeno, a quiet village with views of Lake Como and the hills beyond

 Lezzeno lies across the western “leg” of the lake, on the same shore as Bellagio.  Unlike Bellagio, Lezzeno is uncrowded and laid back.  I had no idea what to expect, but when our boat to Nesso was cancelled we simply said “let’s go and have lunch in Lezzano instead” without any prior research or planning.   Serendipity at work.

Just off the ferry landing is a small church with a pretty bell tower, a pharmacy, and not much else.  Walking along a winding road we reached a closed restaurant and a minimart and didn’t see much more town ahead of us on the road.  We were tempted to turn around and head back to the dock for the next boat to somewhere but we had a feeling that there must be more to Lezzeno.  A stop at the mini mart assured us that if we kept on we’d find beautiful views, a hotel, and a nice restaurant. 

Lezzeno

So, on we walked and sure enough, stunning views of the lake came into view along with old stone bridges and walls, colorful houses, and pots of flowers.

A little further on we came across the Hotel Villa Aurora.  The hotel has as a vintage vibe, a front porch facing the lake, and a bar with casual dining and an outdoor patio.  The hotel provides a perfect spot to relax, sip some wine on the porch, and enjoy some quiet time on the lake. 

Across the street, the hotel has a restaurant with big windows looking out over the lake. The panoramic view takes in the western shore with the promontory where Villa Balbionello sits, the surrounding hills, and comings and goings of all types of small boats. Outside the restaurant are steps down to an appealing beach club.  It looked very family friendly, with a large floating inflatable platform for sliding or jumping into the lake. My grandkids would love it there!

Luckily, we were able to get a table at the restaurant without a reservation.  

I ordered polpette di pesce. The literal translation is “fish balls” but that sounds, well, odd.  I would call them fish cakes – but they were nothing like the Mrs. Paul’s frozen fish cakes I remember from my youth.  These were light and fresh tasting and served with a delicate lemon sauce.  Perfect with a glass of white wine (after all, for lunch when on vacation in Italy, wine is permissible if not required).  This was dining with a view and we definitely lingered over our meal before heading for the next boat back to our base in Argegno.

 Serendipity struck a second time when we arrived to Tremezzo to the beginning of a very heavy rain. Much too stormy for a visit to Villa Carlotta, we needed a plan B as the rain threatened to last for a long while.  The options: take the next boat back to Argegno and our Airbnb or make a mad dash through the rain and duck into the first nice restaurant we found.  We opted for opening our umbrellas and braving the downpour.  Just down the street we spotted the No26 restaurant, part of the Hotel Bazzoni.  It looked elegant, upscale, and dry.  We decided to splurge and have a long lunch. 

Storm clouds over Tremezzo

Good decision.  The food at No26 was exquisite.  The restaurant was not crowded on that rainy day and the waiters were friendly, interested in why we lived in Italy, and willing to chat with us in Italian.  That made lunch even more fun. 

A further description of the food is warranted (but prepare to get hungry!).  The meal started with a little surprise from the chef - a small scoop of ricotta topped with an herb infused apricot jam. 3 luscious bites. We were off to a great start!

My first course was a soup course listed as a vellutata di ceci, capasante, cipolla rossa acidula e jus di coda di manzo, a long name that translates to a velvety soup of pureed chickpeas, scallops, pickled red onions, and beef tail juice.  That combination of flavors was nothing short of amazing.  The soup was thick and flavorful with one perfectly seared scallop in the center, topped with the onions, and ringed along the bowl with a beef reduction.  Topped with some little greens it made a gorgeous presentation. 

This lemon ricotta filled pasta was a delight.

 Since we wanted this to be a long lunch in hopes that the rain might stop giving us a chance to walk around Tremezzo, a second course was in order.   We both ordered the Lingotto ripieno di ricotta e limone alle tre salse e polvere di cipolla bruciata.  Menu Italian is so flowery and descriptive!  Translation – Lingotto (a ravioli like pasta) filled with ricotta and lemon with three sauces and toasted onion powder. Lemon is one of my favorite flavors and this ricotta was bursting with lemon peel and lemon juice. Topped with colorful ribbons of the different sauces with just a sprinkle of the onion powder, it was another stunning presentation. It tasted just as good as it looked. 

Dessert (remember, we were riding out a rainstorm for a couple of hours here!) was a tiramisu with cocoa crumbles. 

The tiramisu was rich – we were glad we were sharing it. Add in a caffè macchiato and it was the perfect ending to a special meal.

 A break in the storm gave us just enough time for a quick walk through Tremezzo’s lake front before the rain started again and sent us hurrying back to the boat dock for the trip back “home” to Argegno.

 Neither of these two experiences were planned.  Both took the place of other things we wanted to do but we gladly went along with the happy accidents the universe sent us.  And serendipity seemed intent of feeding us well!

Lenno and Varenna: Two Towns and Two Shores on Lake Como

One of the things I’ve most missed during the nearly six months that we’ve lived with COVID-19 is the ability to travel freely and explore Italy and beyond. After all, the ability to see more of Italy (and of Europe) was part of the reason I moved to Lucca nearly two years ago. Because travel has been limited, I find myself thinking back to trips I took in the months before our lives changed so dramatically. Remembering these adventures helps keep me focused on the positive rather than the negatives associated with the virus. One of the trips I like to remember was one I made last fall, when my sister came to visit.

With only a short (three-day) stay at Lake Como, we had to make some tough choices about how to spend our time. Because my sister, Patty, was a first-time visitor to this region, I wanted to show her some highlights, a few “must-sees,” and one of my favorite spots, Villa del Balbianello. And because on-and-off rain was predicted throughout our stay, it was important to take advantage of every bit of clear weather.

The boat landing in Bellagio, under blue skies just before the rain set in

We spent the better part of our first day in Bellagio (a “can’t miss”), which was beautiful despite the misty, rainy weather that descended soon after we arrived. Bellagio, with its narrow staircase “streets,” is the place for shopping on the lake and the many shops provided a great way to escape the drizzle.

The day in Bellagio was wonderful, but hands down my favorite day was the one we spent exploring two towns on opposite shores of the lake - Lenno and Varenna.

Wandering through the back streets of Lenno on a foggy morning

We started off the day in Lenno, on the western shore, just a short bus ride from our hotel down the road in Argegno. Lenno is a small village (fewer than 2,000 residents), which sits at the base of a short peninsula that juts into Lake Como. A walk through town and along the seaside promenade affords wonderful views of narrow lanes, the wooded peninsula, the town’s small harbor, and long views across mid-lake to Bellagio. There is a pretty village church (Santo Stefano), shore-front restaurants, and many peaceful spots to pause and enjoy the view.

Lake Como as seen from a terrace at Villa del Balbionello in Lenno

Most visitors to Lenno are on the way to visit Villa del Balbionello and that’s where we headed too. The villa, which sits at the end of the peninsula, can be reached by a hike through the wooded landscape or by my preferred method - motorboat. The villa and its surrounding gardens are breathtaking (mozzafiato in Italian) and definitely on the list of must-sees for any visit to Lake Como. (For more on the villa, see Two Parts Italy Villa del Balbianello, March 23, 2017). After visiting the villa, we had a wonderful lunch in Lenno at Trattoria Santo Stefano (fresh fish expertly prepared, photos below).

After lunch it was a short walk along the harbor to the ferry dock where we caught the boat over to Varenna on the lake’s eastern shore.

One of the endless views of the lake to be found in Varenna

Varenna has its own special character. It is small and laid-back, with fewer tourists, though it’s still plenty lively with lots to enjoy. There are gardens (including a botanical garden), villas, a small harbor, a ferry stop, and a charming old town.

The most unique feature in Varenna is the passerella, a bridge-like walkway that skirts along the shore above the water. It is also called the “passeggiata degli inamorata” (loosely translated as lover’s lane). You’ll know it by its red railing - all that separates you from the lake - and views that are incomparable. You may even hear accordion music as you walk along, the perfect Lake Como soundtrack. This walk is a must when visiting Varenna. It takes you from the ferry stop, along the lake front, and through the old town. Even better is stopping for lunch or a gelato along the way. Keep going past the famous Hotel du Lac with its view terrace (perhaps it is time for an aperitivo with a view?) and then up away from the lake into the center of the old town, ending at the church of San Georgio.

A morning in Lenno and an afternoon in Varenna made for a busy but fabulous day, especially shared with my sister. But next time we have to stay longer! - post by Joanne

Villa del Balbianello

My first glimpses of Italy were in the movies. Mostly I watched American or British films - "A Room with a View," "Stealing Beauty," "Roman Holiday," "Enchanted April." It was the quirky British film "A Month by the Lake" that really captured me. I don’t know if it was the unconventional romance, the pre-war time period, or the charms and accents of the Italian actors that first drew me in but it was definitely the unforgettable setting of Villa del Balbianello on Lake Como that most grabbed my imagination. Could such a place be real or was this just movie magic?

Vanessa Redgrave skipped down this staircase in the movie "A Month by the Lake" (1995). The villa has also been used in filming other movies, including "Casino Royale" and "Star Wars Episode II Attack of the Clones."

I saw the villa in person for the first time in 1996 from the deck of one of the boats that crisscross Lake Como. I wasn’t able to visit the villa on that trip, but I vowed to return someday. Someday came last fall when I had the chance to tour the villa and its spectacular gardens. No movie magic needed – the reality was even better than what was captured  on film.

Villa Balbianello as seen when approached by motorboat.  Note the boat landing, lower left.

The villa sits high on a spit of land jutting into Lake Como, just outside the town of Lenno. It is surrounded on three sides by water and on the fourth by dense woods. Could there be a more beautiful landscape? The villa dates to the 18th century, even earlier if you count the monastery that predates it, part of which was incorporated into the villa’s structure.

The villa incorporates a tower from an earlier Franciscan monastery, seen here through the trees above a beautiful carved balustrade that winds its way through the terraced gardens.

It is thanks to the most recent owner, Count Guido Monzino, that this stunning property is open to the public. It remains much as it was at his death in 1988, giving visitors a peek into the home of the larger-than-life Monzino, an adventurer and explorer. He loved the villa so much that he chose never to leave – he is entombed on the grounds. I like to believe that he continues to enjoy the pleasure his home gives to all who visit.

A view toward the lake from the path that winds up to the gardens and loggia.

There are two ways to arrive at the villa. The first is by land, over a somewhat steep path. The second is by motorboat from the village of Lenno and this is what I recommend.  The drama of disembarking at the private boat landing and climbing the steps to the garden transports the visitor to an earlier age and a different, glamorous lifestyle.

The private boat landing at the villa.

The house is a marvel, complete with secret passageways, dramatic views, art, artifacts, and beautiful furnishings. I was most envious of the apartment within the villa, commanding one of the best views of the lake, which the Count designed as the private quarters of his mother (if my children are reading this, settling one’s mother in an apartment within a villa on Lake Como is a splendid idea).

Map room, loggia

Sitting room inside the villa

Rooms in the villa have quite a view

Without doubt the most stunning aspects of the property are the loggia, perched on a rise above the house with glorious views up and down the lake, and the terraced gardens with winding walkways lined with flower-filled urns, greenery, manicured trees, and beautiful statues, all with dramatic lake views.

Villa del Balbianello as seen from the lake. The three arches of the loggia, which are flanked by the map room and the library, lie at the top right of the photo. Both loggia rooms, as well as the interior of the villa, can be seen on a guided tour of the property.

One of many beautiful flower-filled urns which line the garden paths.

 The drama, beauty, and history of Villa del Balbianello make it a must-see on any visit to Lake Como. The villa, a Fondo Ambiente Italiano (FAI) property, is open from mid-March through mid-November (closed Mondays, Wednesdays, and some holidays). Please visit the official website for current hours and guided tour prices. And don't miss the gift shop!                                                                                -post by JB

Statues line the path up to the loggia.

Contact information:  http://eng.fondoambiente.it/beni/villa-del-balbianello-fai-properties.asp