Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (The Museum of the Works of the Cathedral, Florence)

Many years ago, on my first visit to Florence, I visited the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (the museum associated with the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, usually referred to as “the Duomo”). At that time (1996), the museum was a jumble of a space, small and crowded with poorly displayed art and artifacts from the famous cathedral. I was not inspired to return.

Detail from a sculpture by Ticciati, once part of the main altar in the Duomo, now in the redesigned museum entry

 In recent years, the museum has been enlarged and has undergone a top-to-bottom renovation (completed in 2015). On a recent trip to Florence I decided to revisit the museum to see the changes – and my only word is WOW - what a change! 

16th century bust of Mary Magdalene, Giovanni Bandini

The museum is now an amazing space, full of light, open galleries, and fascinating art and artifacts from throughout the cathedral’s history.

The displays are well organized, beautifully presented, and provide good historical context.

Many of the pieces are original, moved from the cathedral itself. These include Ghiberti’s bronze baptistery doors, an evocative Pietà by Michelangelo, a carved wooden Mary Magdalene by Donatello, and portions of a larger-than-life sculpture from what was once a main altar in an earlier version of the cathedral (top photo).

A reproduction of the church facade, lined with statuary, fills the long, high gallery on the ground floor. How wonderful to get a closer look at these examples of statues that are so high up on the actual cathedral’s exterior. The facade can also be enjoyed from a viewing gallery on the floor above, which provides an even closer look at the statues high up on the recreated facade.

Statue gallery

 Across from this wall of statues are the two massive bronze baptistery doors by Ghiberti. I could spend hours looking at the details of the panels that make up these doors. Each panel tells a story in intricate detail.

Detail of panels from the north baptistry doors

Wooden model of the lantern that rises above the cupola

Central to the history of the cathedral is the building of the cupola (dome). Designed by Brunelleschi, it is a marvel of engineering and architecture.

The museum has an area dedicated to its construction that includes models of the dome and the lantern that caps it, a video presentation, and a display of tools used in the dome’s construction.

 Considering that the cupola was built in the 15th century, is this impressive engineering or miracle?

 One of my favorite displays was the reproductions of the stained glass windows.  More than a static display, the dynamic technology brings the windows up close, allowing the brilliant colors and designs to unfold before one’s eyes to be viewed in detail.

Of course a cathedral must have music and  the museum includes beautifully illustrated books of sacred music and two marble choir lofts (actually designed for organs not choirs). One loft was designed by della Robbia and the other by Donatello.  Both are beautiful but quite different in character.

Joyful children play across della Robbia’s sculpted choir loft

Detail from large book of sacred music

To end a visit here, be sure to view the actual dome from the viewing platform on the museum’s top floor.

The redesigned Museo dell’Opera del Duomo is nothing short of marvelous. Kudos to the redesign team - what a gift they have given us.   - Post by JMB

Location:   Piazza del Duomo 9, 50122 Florence, Italy

Hours:  Sunday through Saturday 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sunday 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.  Closed Mondays and first Tuesday of the month.  Hours subject to change; best to check ahead of time

Cost: an 18 euro ticket allows access to the museum and baptistery .  Several combined museum tickets also area available 

Lucca In the Year 1369

Italians have long memories, especially when it comes to historic events and rivalries. The Lucchese are no exception. Each spring they celebrate several long-ago events - World War II Liberation Day and the feast of Santa Zita, for starters. One unique local celebration recalls the year 1369, when the city of Lucca gained its liberty from its most hated rival - Pisa (not by war, but by declaration of the Emperor Charles IV, in exchange for a large sum of money). Today’s rivalry with Pisa mostly involves soccer and the claim to who has the best city to visit or live in, but in 1369, achieving freedom from domination by a rival city state was huge. After that, Lucca fought hard to maintain its independence from all rivals, especially Pisa and Florence, 

Fierce ladies - each with an arco lungo (long bow)

So, just how is this major historical event celebrated? Picture Medieval costumes, archers with long bows and cross bows, drummers and flag throwers. Add in city and church officials reading proclamations and lots of spectators,locals, tourists, and wide-eyed children, all watching history recreated in the square in front of the cathedral of San Martino, and you have an exciting and photo-worthy event. 

Lanciatori di bandiera (flag throwers) - a crowd favorite as they toss their flags high into the air

The celebration of Lucca’s liberation from Pisa, on the Sunday following Easter, is one of my favorite annual events and one that, for me, says welcome to spring in Lucca, a city where history comes alive.  

-post by JMB

Balestrieri with their cross bows (balestre)

The sounds of drums is a big part of the festival. These batteriste (drummers) come in all ages. 

Even a Wanderer Sometimes Needs a Map

One of the joys of having plenty of time in an Italian city is the opportunity to simply wander. Strolling through vibrant neighborhoods and discovering for oneself a fountain, piazza, church, cafe, monument, garden, or historic building is a wonderful experience. Stumbling into an unexpected and intriguing street scene, full of Italian chatter and maybe even some music, is the stuff of Italian daydreams. Getting lost, and finding your way back to a familiar landmark, is part of the fun. But still, even an inveterate wanderer sometimes needs a map.

Maps provide more than just direction; they can give context to a place, delineate neighborhoods, link important landmarks (rivers, bridges, buildings) to discoveries made while wandering, and provide a quick and efficient orientation to a new place. A good map is a treasure.

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A View from Lucca's Wall

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Portico, Lucca

 When visiting larger cities, it's fairly easy to find a detailed map, or a good guidebook. There are so many choices for Rome or Florence that it's easy to find just the right one to suit any need. But in the smaller cities, places less visited by tourists, finding a good map can be a challenge. I certainly found this to be true when I first visited Lucca.  The American guidebooks devoted just a quick page or two to Lucca, seemingly an afterthought in a guide otherwise devoted to Florence. If a map was included at all it showed just a few main streets and sites. I found better guidebooks in the local bookstores once I arrived, but the maps available were still small and lacking in detail. I often found myself wandering down a small vicolo (lane) that I simply could not locate on any of the available maps, or looking at a marvelous building, garden, or church with no idea of what I was seeing.

And then, several years ago during an online search before a return visit to Lucca, I stumbled across The Wanderer's Map of Lucca and it's accompanying guidebook, "The Wanderer's Guide to Lucca." Both map and guidebook were written by Brian Lindquist, an American who came here for a visit and, in his own words, "got waylaid." How fortunate for us that he did, because he has written what I consider to be the essential tool for getting to know Lucca. The book is divided into sections that cover the history of Lucca, the churches, the palazzi, the families who played an important role in the history of Lucca, the city streets, and the three generations of city walls.  

The book is a fascinating and informative read for those who want to dive deep into the history of Lucca, those who love its Medieval streetscapes and architecture (count me among them), and anyone who has looked at a structure such as the Torre Guinigi (Guinigi Tower) and wondered who the heck those Guinigis were and why they have a tower named after them. Readers interested in art history will also find the information about art, especially the art original to the many churches, invaluable.

But the map - or should I say THE map - is an essential tool for getting to know Lucca. My copy is so creased and worn after accompanying me on many trips that I recently ordered a new one. I now have one to bring with me and one posted on a wall in my house to feed my recollections, mental meanderings, and daydreams!  

Why is the Wanderer's Map so important?  To begin with, it's big (19 x 26 inches) and easy to read. It shows the important features of Lucca, including the footprint of all 3 walls (Roman, Medieval, and Renaissance) and all the streets, from main drag Via Filungo to the smallest vicolo. The existing churches are shown as are the locations of churches that used to stand but are no more (Lucca used to be called the City of 100 Churches; today there are about 40 within the 2.5-mile circumference of the city walls). Each palazzo is named and its location shown. The map key is clear and easy to use - in the section pictured below, churches are in red, palazzi in purple. The orange lines signify Medieval streetscapes.  Flip the map over to find that it is annotated (linked to the numbers shown on the map below), giving information about each church, the walls, and the families whose names still are important in Lucca, as seen in the many local streets and palazzi that bear their names.

The map and guidebook are my companions in Lucca. They provide a wealth of information and inspiration. I love having at my fingertips a resource that tells me that the church of Santa Caterina, one of the recently restored small churches in Lucca, was built in 1575 or that San Giovanni e Reparata church (shown in the photo below) once housed the relics of St. Pantaleone. My visiting friends tell me that I make a good tour guide - if so, it is thanks in large part to all that I have learned from the Wanderer's Map and Wanderer's Guide to Lucca. 

Piazza Antelminelli, Lucca with a view of the back of the church of San Giovanni e Reparata

Both map and guidebook are available from Lindquist Historical Guides, Inc. 119 Midland Street Bridgeport, Conn. 06605 or oline from www.lindquistguides.com.  The book with a copy of the map is available for $27.95 (includes shipping); map alone for $9.95. Note that they only ship to addresses within the United States.  Book without map is also available on Amazon.

Grazie mille to Brian Lindquist for kindly giving permission to include photos of the Wanderer's Map in this post.           Post by JMB

La Fortezza (The Fortress)

In Medieval times, long before it became a nation, Italy was made up of independent city-states and kingdoms that were often at war with each other. In Tuscany, the cities of Florence, Pisa, and Lucca engaged in ongoing battles for control of the region. Traces of this historic rivalry still exist - for example, in Lucca's annual celebration of its liberation from Pisa (shown in photos below), an event that occurred in the mid-1300s. And don't even mention the intercity soccer rivalries!

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During the 14th century the armies of Lucca, needing a strategic vantage point on higher ground, constructed a fortezza (fortress) on the Cerruglio hill in the countryside between Lucca and Valdinievole. This fortress, with its strategic position and high tower, allowed the Lucchese to have advance warning of an enemy approaching from the direction of Florence and also to send signals back to Lucca. In the 15th century, the Florentines (then in control of the region) expanded the fortress to its current size and configuration.

The fortezza with original construction on the left and more recent addition to the right of the two central towers (note the change in materials from stone to brick). 

Original 14th century "door within a door" 

Today, the fortezza remains an imposing structure, sitting above the small town of Montecarlo, about a 30-minute drive from Lucca. The original portion of the fortress, built in the 14th century, includes a rounded tower (the mastio, far left in the aerial photo above), two square towers, and a central courtyard all connected by exterior walls in a roughly triangular shape.

The entrance, in one of the square towers, is through an ancient wooden door with a "door within a door" design that prevented armed intruders from entering (the smaller door could be opened but was too small to permit the weapons carried by a soldier to pass through). Amazingly, this massive door is original to the fortress.

The current family home, once the quarters of the military person in charge of the fortress, also lies in this section, as does a large outdoor kitchen and an old cistern. In the central courtyard wall another door leads out of the fortress and onto beautiful views of the valley below. 

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The more recent construction (15th century) is in brick rather than stone and includes a long room with beamed ceilings and a fireplace at what is now the front of the property, and two smaller towers. Its walls enclose a formal Italian garden, which lies between the newer and older portions of the fortezza. 

The Italian garden lies between the oldest and newer portions of the fortezza .

Eventually, the wars between the city-states ended and the fortezza was sold to a private owner. Today it remains a private property, in the family of the current owner since 1905. Imagine having a Medieval fortress as your family home! What must it be like to live day-to-day amid such history? Luckily it is possible to experience the fortezza as the current owners, who are dedicated to restoration and upkeep of this unique piece of history, occasionally open it to the public for tours and private events. Even better, I recently had the chance to tour the property with a small group of students and teachers from Lucca Italian School. One of the current owners, Signor Valter Menchini, was a delightful tour guide and shared his vast knowledge of the fortezza’s construction and history. He so clearly loves his home, and this region’s history, that he made it all come alive with his descriptions of events in the fortress and his interesting anecdotes, such as the story of the two elderly sisters who once lived here and for whom the Torre delle Gobbine (Tower of the Hunchbacks) is named. 

Looking out from the entry to the Torre delle Gobbine toward one of the towers in the oldest part of the fortezza.

Hearing that story, as we stood at the top of the tower, overlooking the valley below, was awe inspiring. We also climbed up into the mastio and the second tower at the front of the fortezza, which was accessed by a narrow, winding stone staircase and opened onto views of the town, the valley beyond, and several distant towns. Signor Menchini suggested that this might be the perfect spot for an aperitivo.  What a good idea - if I lived here I would spend every summer evening doing just that.

The village of Montecarlo viewed from a window in the fortezza.

The town of Montecarlo, which sits just below the fortezza, is small and very charming. Sections of the old city walls remain and there are shops, restaurants, and wine bars to enjoy in addition to wonderful views. Montecarlo is a stop on the Strada del Vino delle Colline Lucchesi e di Montecarlo (the Wine Road of the Lucchese Hills and Montecarlo). Surrounded by vineyards, Montecarlo is known for its very nice white and red wines, which are often served in the restaurants of the surrounding towns, including Lucca. When in doubt as to what wine to order, I always ask for "un bicchiere di vino bianco di Montecarlo" (a glass of Montecarlo white) and I'm never disappointed.

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When I'm in Italy, I often declare "what a perfect day". My visit to the fortezza certainly qualified for that description. Grazie to Lucca Italian School for arranging this visit and to the Pardocchi - Menchini family for opening their family property to us !         - post by JMB

Our host and tour guide, Signor Menchini (front left) and my group from Lucca Italian School.

The House of Dante

With all the amazing sites to see in Florence, it’s hard to find time to visit some of the lesser-known museums. During my spring trip to Italy, I took an hour or so to visit the Museo Casa di Dante (Museum House of Dante) because how could I pass up the chance to learn more about the man considered the father of the language I love so much?

A bust of Dante hangs on the outside wall of the Museo Casa di Dante.

Dante Alighieri was born in Florence in 1265 and the Museo Casa di Dante is said to be where he and his family lived. The museum is housed on three floors of a historic building in the heart of Florence. It was established in 1965 and offers a peek into the various aspects of Dante’s life. Dante, after all, wasn’t just the man credited with establishing the national language of Italy. He also was a politician and epic poet, whose “Divine Comedy” is one of world literature’s masterpieces.

Museo Casa di Dante in Florence

In addition to providing information about Dante, the museum looks at what was happening in Italy at different periods of Dante’s life. There’s a reproduction, for example, of what Italian soldiers wore way back when, as well as weapons from the Battle of Campaldino, in which Dante fought.

Reproductions such as this one of a soldier offer a glimpse into what life was like in Florence in the 14th century.

One of the most moving parts of the museum is the second floor, which includes information about Dante’s exile from Florence. One display case includes a reproduction of the “Libro del Chiodo,” or “Book of the Nail.” The book is a record of sentences handed down in Florence during the 14th century. It is called the “Book of the Nail” because it was bound in wooden covers and hung from a nail in the courtroom. Among the sentences in the book is Dante’s – if he ever returned to Florence, he was to be burned at the stake.

The "Libro del Chiodo," or "Book of the Nail"

The top floor of the museum is devoted to the “Divine Comedy” - a topic I could write about for days (but I won’t). It doesn’t take long to visit the Museo Casa di Dante, although most first-time visitors to Florence with limited time will no doubt choose to gaze at the David and try to conquer the Uffizi instead. But language and literature lovers should definitely stop by this small museum, which is located not far from the Duomo.                                                                             -post by JG

Museocasadidante.it