The Duomo of Siena: A Masterpiece from Floor to Ceiling

To say that the Duomo of Siena is a masterpiece is an understatement of great magnitude. The building itself is a 13th - 14th century architectural wonder. The exterior captivates with its multicolored marble facade, statues, gargoyles, detailed carvings, and stripes. High above the central door, above the round window, is a beautiful gold backed mosaic, the Coronation of the Virgin. This panel sets the tone for the cathedral which is officially the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta - dedicated to the Assumption of Mary.

The ornate interior is gasp worthy - from the soaring black and white columns to the colorful almost delicate ceiling, to the ring of popes (172 of them) high up on the walls. Where to look next? To the dome, the altar, the elaborately carved marble pulpit, the stained glass? There is a treasure of famous sculptures within the church including a sculpture of Saint Paul by Michelangelo on the altar just outside and to the left of the Piccolomini Library. A Bernini sculpture of Mary Magdalene, tucked away near the entrance to the Capella della Madonna del Voto, is graceful and sensuous - I think this is my favorite of all the stunning sculptures in the cathedral.

Bernini’s Mary Magdalene

The Piccolomini Library, along one side of the cathedral, is awash in colorful frescoes (by the artist Pinturicchio) telling the life story of Pope Pius II. That these vibrant colors have endured for some 500 years is a small miracle.

There is something enchanting about the triangular blue and gold floor tiles in the library, scattered with half moons (a symbol of the Piccolomini family). The oversized choral books that line the walls are beautifully hand-illustrated. And that ceiling !

Piccolomini Library, Duomo of Siena

But, as spectacular as all that is, what recently drew me to Siena was the chance to see the floor. The floor, with its centuries old mosaics, is usually covered to protect it from wear but also hiding much of it from view. But September and part of October are the months of the pavimento scoperto (the uncovered floor); there is no better time to visit the Duomo. Within the floor are runs of border decoration in a variety of engaging patterns. In many other churches these would be the main attraction in a mosaic floor. Not so in Siena where they are just a compliment to the more elaborate works.

The huge expanse of floor contains more than 50 individual works completed over time in the 14th and 15th centuries. Different artisans (most local to Siena) crafted the floor using marble inlay or marble graffiti (a technique that adds color by scratching the light colored marble surface and adding in black color). The scenes tell of bible stories, historical events, and allegories. There are beautiful female oracles, the Sibyls, along the sides of the nave.

In the center of the nave are larger works, for example the round inlay with the She-Wolf, symbol of Siena, at its center (left, below) and the thought provoking Ruota della Fortuna (Wheel of Fortune, detail below right).

Closer to the altar are elaborate scenes of bible stories. It is difficult to comprehend the artistic skill that created these intricate and captivating works of art. Even the “simple” border pieces are stunning in design and detail. The more elaborate scenes have an amazing sense of color, texture, depth and light.

I could spend hours, days, years inside the cathedral and still find surprises at every turn. Siena will surely call me back again and again to sit in this stunning church and marvel at its treasures.

An Afternoon in Barga

Up in the Garfagnana, about an hour from Lucca, lies the village of Barga.  Tucked away on a hilltop, far from the typical tourist route, Barga is a quiet corner of Tuscany that maintains much of its medieval character.  Barga is so picturesque that it has been included on the list of Borghi Piu Belli d’Italia (Most Beautiful Villages in Italy list).  I have to agree!

 The winding, narrow lanes are lovely and, due to its position high on a hilltop, Barga also serves up an expansive landscape. The town is surrounded by forests, the Serchio River valley, and the not-too-distant peaks of the Apuan Alps.  The views over the countryside are best enjoyed from the terrace in front of the Duomo (Church of San Cristofero).  Such a wonderful reward after walking up to the church at the top of the hill.

The view from the terrace in front of the Duomo in Barga

 Barga began as a walled castle town and some of the original gates to the city remain.  Entering through one of those gates, the Porta Reale, the journey through town meanders past small squares, steep medieval streets, fascinating architecture, small vicoli (alleys) with surprising views, and interesting landmarks.  All this and the sound of churchbells ringing!  

 In an interesting twist, Barga is also a town with strong links to Scotland.  This connection developed in the early 20th century when many families from Barga emigrated to Scotland in search of work.  In the years that followed there was a reverse flow of their descendants back to Barga either to live or to establish second homes. It is not unusual to hear Scottish accents and even bagpipes in Barga.  Each summer Barga puts on the Sagra del Pesce e Patate (loosely translated as the Festival of Fish and Chips).  Definitely a Scottish twist there! I’ll have to include that in my plans next year.

 Of course Barga also has a foot in the modern world, so there is art to be appreciated, summertime music festivals (Jazz and Opera) and plenty of shops and cafes.  These more modern amenities served my friends (visitors from New Mexico Anita and Leonard) and I well when looking for a lunch spot.  We found good food with a spectacular view on the terrace of Caffè Capretz in Piazza Salvo Salvi.

The view from the terrace at Caffè Capretz

After lunch we were ready for the uphill climb up to the Duomo.  

Along the way is the small church of Santissimo Crocifisso. A stop here provides a welcome break in the climb to the Duomo. It is serene and beautiful with its golden altar, graceful arches, and beautiful statuary. 

Continuing uphill (via a steep stairway or a more gently winding ramp) is the main attraction in Barga – the Romanesque Church of San Cristofero (Saint Christopher).  This is the Duomo, the largest and most important church in town.  

Built beginning around the 11th century, it suffered significant earthquake damage in the 1920’s. At first glance the interior seems stark and empty.  But with a further look (and a euro coin in the box to turn on the lights) a few remaining fragments of fresco and some beautiful marble panels can be appreciated. There are graceful arches, an intricately carved marble pulpit raised above the floor by stone lions, and wonderful stained glass window panels.  The main and two side altars have interesting statues, sculptures, and paintings.   

In front of the church is a large paved terrace with amazing views over the rooftops of Barga and the distant hills.  There was something special in the way the sky, clouds, hills and buildings came together on the day I visited– it’s definitely a place to linger.

One afternoon was hardly enough to get to know this enticing village, but it gave me a chance to explore a little, visit a few key places, and decide that I definitely want to return. 

Barga can be reached by car or bus from Lucca in about an hour.  The convenient Vai bus stops just outside Porta Reale.  It is also possible to arrive by train from Lucca or Pisa to the Barga-Gallicano station and then catch a bus from the train station to the historic center (much too far to walk).  

Cartasia Part Two : The Indoor Exhibits

Outbreack by Ingrid Stockman

 In contrast to the large outdoor pieces displayed throughout the historic center of Lucca, the smaller works of Cartasia were displayed inside the Ex Museo del Fumetto (the former Comics Museum).  The building is tucked away in Piazza San Romano, directly across from the Church of San Romano.  

The inner courtyard of the Ex Museo del Fumetto.

The displays began in the courtyard where the history of Cartasia, now in its 10th edition, was celebrated in a series of panels.  Each panel provided information about one of the prior shows.  Two large pieces, both favorites from the last exhibit in 2018, were placed at the building entrance and at the end of the journey through Cartasia’s history (Silent Shell, Chaotic Shell, left and Paperman, on the right below).

100 + individual works were displayed in the rooms surrounding the courtyard.  The pieces varied in size, color, mood, and format but all had one common feature – the medium of paper or cardboard.  

Delicate yet powerful, one of a three piece series called Homo Exodus by Brigitte Amarger.

 The featured country for the 2021 exhibit was Japan. One large room, complete with a small traditional Japanese tea room, was dedicated to Japanese paper art.  

Crisantemo (Chrysanthemum, The transition from matter to spirit). by Yumiko Kido. Painted using a technique called “fire ink”.

Two pieces were, at first glance, colorful paintings of women with intricate backgrounds. Each was lit from behind and seemed to glow. But then the light dimmed, the colorful painting slowly disappeared, and a completely different hidden image emerged.  Fascinating!  Both, by Japanese artist Meiko Yokoyama, are shown below with the full picture on the left, and the hidden image on the right.

 Especially intriguing was a series of faces printed on paper banners which filled one room.

Traversèe by Elsa Ohana

 The last part of the indoor exhibit seemed to embrace desire more than fear. It was a whimsical display of fashion and an embrace of wild femininity. A far cry from the paper doll clothes of long ago, this part of the exhibit included dramatic hats and extravagant articles of clothing. Each had amazing texture, movement, and flair.

The exhibit ended on Sept 26th – but it’s never too early to plan to attend the next edition which will be held July 31st to Sept 25th 2022 (putting the biennial back on the every 2 year schedule interrupted by the pandemic).  Next year’s theme is “The White Page”. I’m already looking forward to it!

Kawagata Girl by Michela Alesi

In the meantime, I hope that some of the larger outdoor pieces will continue to be displayed under Lucca’s walls, where they will be protected from the elements.  It’s always a delightful surprise to go through one of the many passageways under the walls, round a corner, and come across one of these pieces.
What a joy it has been to see Cartasia return to Lucca!

Below: a series of colorful panels which formed the backdrop for the tea room in the Japanese exhibit room.

Lucca Biennale Cartasia: Artistic Expression in Paper

Lucca has a long history of paper production, producing household paper goods and cardboard for much of Europe. That history makes Lucca the natural host city for Cartasia, a biennial celebration of art and design in paper. The event premiered in 2004 and has been held every two years since, with a one-year delay in 2020 due to the pandemic.  

 The art of Cartasia ranges from ethereal to whimsical, from statements of social commentary to massive creations with subtle meaning. The exhibit includes visual art, fashion, architecture – all created entirely from various forms of paper.  The last two programs have included a focus on an individual country, this year Japan was selected and an entire room of the indoor exhibit is devoted to Japanese paper art.

“First of All Movement”. Factoria Papel , Claudio Acuña. Displayed in Piazza San Francesco

 After a 2020 marked by so many cancelled events, it’s a joy to have Cartasia return for its 10th edition.  This year’s theme, Paura e Desiderio (Fear and Desire), explores the competing human experiences of fear and desire as interpreted by the various artists.  Also included this year is a retrospective of the first 10 editions of the festival.

“In Between” Paper Atelier (Turker Akman and Deniz Yilmaz Akman). Displayed in Piazza Cittadella

 Although the delicate nature of art made with paper requires a definite “hands-off” viewing experience, the art is not hidden away and hard to access.  In fact, the largest and sturdiest cardboard pieces are displayed outdoors throughout Lucca.  They are built during a month-long stay in Lucca by the artists and then moved to the beautiful piazzas and courtyards of the city to be enjoyed by all. 

“Crossing Borders” Sebastian Blomqvist. Displayed in Piazza Santa Maria

 It’s hard to choose a favorite among the large outdoor pieces, but there is something especially enticing about the work called Hybris, placed high above the street under the Porta dei Borghi at the north end of Via Fillungo.  I can’t pass by without stopping to marvel at its graceful sense of movement.

And who could pass by the expressive face of the dog in “Risky Rewards” by Emma Hardy (below) found under the loggia in Piazza San Michele. Delightful!

Next week I’ll write more about Cartasia, with a look at the indoor exhibits. These include the special section of Japanese paper art and some amazing and creative paper fashions.  

An Italian Seaside Dinner

I’ve been back in Italy for a few weeks now and, while I love being in Lucca, sometimes I long for open spaces and the sound of the sea. So, when friends recently suggested an evening trip to the coast for dinner I replied with an excited YES! I didn’t even ask where exactly we were going - sometimes it’s fun just to be surprised.

The evening delivered a host of very pleasant surprises. First, a pretty back roads drive to Viareggio, about 30 minutes from Lucca. Then, Viareggio itself. Well known for its raucous Carnevale celebrations, graceful Liberty-style buildings and grand hotels, Viareggio is also a beach town. It has a long promenade along the water lined with private beach clubs, shops, cafes and restaurants. It’s a fun seaside town and in early September it still has its summer vibe.

After a short walk along the promenade, we headed to restaurant La Pia, inside one of the private beach clubs. Another surprise - this is no casual beachside restaurant. La Pia is elegant with all white decor broken up only by some greenery, the colorful beach umbrellas in the distance, and the evolving magic of a tramonto al mare (sunset at the sea).

Sunset in Viareggio viewed from our table at La Pia

Considering its seaside location, it’s no surprise that La Pia has a menu full of wonderful seafood dishes. How to choose between the seafood pastas, the fresh grilled fish, the fritto misto (mix of fried seafood)? In the end we shared a light and crispy fritto misto as a starter. With such a hearty appetizer, we skipped a pasta course and each opted for the grilled branzino (sea bass) as a main dish. It was perfectly cooked and beautifully presented on a pool of pureed vegetables. Some grilled eggplant and zucchini made a perfect side dish. The fish paired nicely with a glass of Prosecco.

I was determined to skip desert, really I was. But my companions opted to indulge, one in an gelato covered chocolate truffle and the other in Crepes Suzette. Dessert came with a dose of drama as the copper brazier was wheeled table-side to flame the sauce for the crepes. Delicate, not too sweet, and topped with tiny shreds of orange and lemon peel and a little scoop of gelato it was a good ending to the meal (I admit, I did end up sharing the crepes, so much for good intentions).

The food was great and the company wonderful. The sound of the ocean was soothing. But the sunset - it was pure magic to watch the sky turn red and the sun slowly sink into the sea.