Ravenna (Part One)

In 25 years of travels in Italy, how did I miss Ravenna?  My first visit came just last month when I spent a few days there with two friends at the end of our trip on the Treno di Dante (Dante’s Train). While a short visit wasn’t enough time to explore everything Ravenna has to offer, I was able to stand in wonder before the mosaics for which the city is famous, visit Dante’s tomb, and soak in the special atmosphere of this city on Italy’s Adriatic coast.

The tomb of Dante Alighieri in Ravenna

 Living in the Medieval city of Lucca, I thought I had a real appreciation for all things “old”.  But while Lucca brings to mind the 1400’s, Ravenna evokes an era nearly 1000 years before that.  Many of the buildings, with their Byzantine mosaic decorations, date from the 5th century, after the fall of Rome and at the very beginning of the middle ages.  By the time Dante arrived in the city, in 1321, the mosaics were already ancient and provided inspiration for his poetry. 

 It would be easy to be overwhelmed by the number of historic and art filled spaces in Ravenna, so it is important to not try to see them all in one day, or even one visit.  Our first afternoon was spent mostly wandering through town and getting a feel for the city. We also made a stop at Dante’s tomb.

The Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, Ravenna

The next two days were devoted to viewing mosaic filled buildings: churches, a baptistery, a museum, and two mausoleum / small chapels. A couple of gardens provided a refreshing break between historic sights and a chance to see another side of Ravenna.

 Our first stop was the Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, built near the beginning of the 6th century as a chapel for King Theodoric.  It has had some restoration and remodels over the years along with several name changes. The current name comes from the fact that the church contains relics from Saint Apollinare and it is the newer of two Sant’Apollinare Basilicas in town (the other is Sant’Apollinare in Classe, a bit outside of the city center). The exterior is plain brick but oh, the interior!  The whole room seems infused with color, especially gold. The basilica provided the first of many WOW moments in Ravenna.

The church has a long, tall central nave, with columns supporting arches along both sides (top photo).  Above the arches are three levels of mosaics, small ones at the top and larger ones in the middle and bottom rows.  Depicted are events from the New Testament along with a parade of saints, martyrs, wise men, and virgins.  There are also scenes of miracles and of the Ravenna of more than 1000 years ago.  I doubt that photos can do justice to the mosaics, but here are a few of the scenes that entranced me.

 From the large basilica we headed to the small Battistero Neoniano (Neonian Baptistery, entry ticket and reservation required). This is one of the oldest sites in Ravenna, built early in the 5th century when Ravenna was the seat of the Western Roman Empire.  Like many baptisteries, it is octagonal in shape and contains a large marble baptismal font. 

Central mosaic, Battistero Neoniano, Ravenna

The central dome has a mosaic image of the baptism of Christ – one of the earliest known images of this type.  Moving out from that central image is a mosaic parade of the 12 apostles.  Around the dome’s edges are a series of alternating thrones and altars. The dominant color here is a vibrant blue, although there is still plenty of gold. The walls below the dome also have beautiful decorations with marble carvings and intricate mosaic work. The detail and color fill the small space and feel like a genuine miracle.

Bishop’s chair, Museo e Cappella Arcivescovile, Ravenna

In the Museo e Cappella Arcivescovile (Bishop’s Museum and Chapel) there are many interesting things to see, including fragments of mosaics from an ancient destroyed church and an intricately carved bishop’s chair (almost a throne really).

The most compelling feature is the tiny chapel, built for the private worship of a long ago Bishop, which is set inside the museum.

The entry mosaics are colorful and depict Ravenna’s aquatic birds The apse is topped by a starry heaven. The small space is intimate and welcoming.

Cappella Arcivescovile, Ravenna

Just as trying to see all of Ravenna’s important sights in one day can be overwhelming, so can reading about them. Look for more about Ravenna including the Basilica di San Vitale and the Galla Placidia Mausoleum in the coming weeks.

A Walk Through Brisighella

The region of Emilia-Romagna stretches from Tuscany to the Adriatic coast. Many of its cities are well known for their cuisine. It is some of the best in Italy - think Bologna, Parma, and Modena. Of course this region also makes some outstanding cars and motorcycles with famous names like Ferrari, Ducati, Lamborghini, Maserati. Beyond that, there is one of the oldest universities in the world, the University of Bologna. It is a region full of diverse riches including a host of UNESCO World Heritage sites.

The Treno di Dante makes a 90 minute stop in Brisighella on some of its itineraries.

There are still some hidden gems in Emilia - Romagna, places off the usual tourist routes. One of these places is the borgo (small village) of Brisighella. I knew nothing about this hamlet before I booked my passage on the vintage Treno di Dante (Dante’s Train) which made a stop there on the way to Ravenna. I included a few photos of Brisighella in last week’s post about the Treno di Dante, but I had so many more photos of this intriguing little village that I had to give it its very own post.

A 90 minute whistle stop doesn’t give nearly enough time to get to know this medieval village. But it’s enough time to spark curiosity and a desire to return. I am already thinking about another visit, perhaps next spring when there is a celebration of the local specialty, the Moretto artichoke. In the meantime, I will share some glimpses of this intriguing borgo.

Looking over Brisighella’s rooftops from up above the Via degli Asini

“Main Street” in Brisighella

From the train station, it is a short walk through a pretty park to get to the center of town.

There is one primary street, lined with cafes, shops, and small restaurants. The buildings are colorful, artisan goods spill out of the shops to invite browsing, and there are lots of flowers. Even the street signs are interesting.

Small alleys and steep stairs branch out from the main road.

The views of the surrounding hills add to the joy of wandering through town.

Above the town are two landmarks. The first is the castle fortress, the Rocca Manfrediana, built in the 14th centrury. The second is the not-quite-so-old (19th century) Torre dell’Orologia (clock tower) that seems to rise magically from the rock formation at its base. In some ways the entire city seems to have risen from the rocks.

Rising above the main street is the Via del Borgo, also known as the Via degli Asini. Long ago this was an important defensive structure. Later asini (donkeys) climbed this street with their loads of gypsum. Today it is lined with small homes with characteristic wooden doors, pretty windows, and a series of arches framing views of the street below and the distant hills.

Up above the Via degli Asini is a pathway that leads to views of rooftops, distant hills, and the fortress. As for the donkeys, the only ones we saw were in a ceramic shop - a colorful souvenir of a stop in Brisighella.

Like other places in Emiglia - Romagna, Brisighella is supposed to have excellent food. On my short visit there was no time for lunch, just a quick coffee. This gives me one more reason to plan a return visit. Next time I will take the regular train, about a 3 1/2 hour journey from my home in Lucca. With winter coming up, I’ll enjoy doing some planning for spring adventures on cold winter morning.

Melograni (pomegranates) growing in Brisighella

Dante’s Train

A 4 person compartment in the vintage train’s 3rd class car. Today it is a wonderful spot for a ride on the Dante Train.

Dante, the most famous of all Italian poet philosophers, was born in Florence in the year 1265.  He lived in Florence, married, fathered 4 children, and became a person of importance in the city of his birth.  But by 1302 political rivalries and power struggles saw him banished from Florence.  He faced a terrible fate should he return - death by being burned alive. 

Leaving his family behind, he traveled throughout Italy and eventually settled in the city of Ravenna, where he wrote Paradiso.  He died there of malaria in 1321 and was buried in the city. Some years after his death the cities of Florence and Ravenna began fighting over his remains. 

Interior of Dante’s tomb in Varenna

Florence claimed that as Dante’s place of birth he should certainly rest there.  Ravenna argued that since Dante lived the last part of his life, died, and was buried in Ravenna, he should always remain in that city.  When the Florentines tried to reclaim the body some 200 years after his death (those Florentines just never give up!), they found his sarcophagus empty.  His body was most likely removed and then hidden by Franciscan monks to keep it away from those pesky Florentines. 

The monks never did reveal the hiding place and for more than 300 years Dante’s remains were lost.  They were rediscovered in 1885 and briefly exhibited to the public before being placed inside his tomb.  The remains have been moved several times to protect them during times of war, but thankfully never again misplaced. Today, Dante’s body lies once again in his peaceful small tomb near the Basilica of San Francesco in the center of Ravenna.  Each year the Florentine’s send the oil that lights the lamp above the monument.

During his exile, Dante crossed the territory between Florence and Ravenna.  The area, partly in Tuscany and partly in Emilia-Romagna, includes the Apennine hills, deep valleys, rivers, and forests full of chestnut trees.  One thing is certain though – Dante definitely did not travel by train!  The first trains didn’t arrive in Italy until 1839, about 500 years after his death.

 So, how is it that just last week I rode Dante’s very own train (Il Treno di Dante) from Florence, through the landscape of Dante’s wanderings, to Ravenna?   The train trip named for Dante was introduced in 2021, to celebrate the 700th anniversary of his death.  The route was offered again this summer and fall.

The centoporte train during a stop-over in Brisighella. Likely Dante didn’t wear a mask during his travels, but in late September Italy still required them on trains. Thanks to Diana Nason for this photo.

 The Treno di Dante is a restored “centoporte” (100 doors) train from the 1920’s.  The small cars have compartments of 4 seats, each with its own door and windows.  The interiors bring back an earlier, more gracious age of travel.  The seats are wooden benches as upholstery was only found in first class, the trim is polished wood.  The windows are curtained.  The wooden luggage racks above each seat are spacious (and far more useful than the narrow racks found on modern trains).  Many of the fittings are brass - door handles, curtain rods, window latches, vents above the windows, even the pull for the emergency brake.  All of these things combine to make the train elegant.  This is slow travel at its best. And if you are a train buff - well, this is a rare opportunity to ride a vintage Italian train.

The trip begins in Florence at Santa Maria Novella station.  On route to Ravenna it travels through several small villages including Borgo San Lorenzo, Marradi, Brisighella as well as the larger town of Faenza.   The trip includes one stop, sometimes in Faenza and other times in Brisighella. We had plenty of time to explore the medieval village of Brisighella on our trip during a 90 minute stop (photos below).  After leaving Florence at 8:50 am we arrived in Ravenna a little after 1:00pm.

 On board, a guide shares some Dante history along with information about the countryside through which the train travels and the small villages along the way.  The narration is mostly in Italian, but the guide did provide an abbreviated version in English.  The train moves just slow enough to appreciate the beautiful scenery along the route.

Dante himself made a surprise appearance, traveling through the cars in his red robes and talking with passengers.  Still in exile, he didn’t join the train until after we left Florence.

There is no need to be a Dante scholar to enjoy this activity.  It was a fun journey - a relaxing ride with lovely scenery, a beautiful historic train, a chance to explore Brisighella, and a dash of history too. 

A couple of days in Ravenna at the end of the trip provided a chance to explore the city and learn more about its Dante connections. It is an fascinating city and oh wow - those mosaics!  Look for more on Ravenna in upcoming blog posts.

The Dante Train runs this year through November 1st.  I found no current information about whether there will be a 2023 season of the Treno di Dante. 

 Website:  www.iltrenodidante.it

 Tickets can also be booked through Get Your Guide. Website:   getyourguide.com

A Fountain of Beauty in Lucca

I probably have more photos of her than of any other subject in Lucca - photos taken from every angle, in every light, in every season.  She is a fascinating subject and one of Lucca’s most graceful landmarks.  She is The Naiade or Water Nymph.

 The Naiade rests atop one of Lucca’s many fountains, built in the 1800’s to bring fresh water to the city via Nottolini’s aqueduct. 

Some of the fountains are simple utilitarian structures but are few are quite decorative, none more so than the Naiade fountain. 

She was sculpted by Luigi Camolli from a design by Nottolini, one of Lucca’s most famous architects and sculptors.  She turns an ordinary fountain into a work of art.

The fountain itself is a marvel.  At the base is a large bathtub-like marble basin resting on claw feet and decorated with lion’s heads.  Above the large basin is a rectangular marble column with water spigots on 3 sides, each one placed above a small basin.  This is where so many Lucchese come to fill containers with fresh water direct from the hills beyond Lucca.  Locals swear this water is much better, and much more tasty, than either tap or bottled water.  Some even have a preferred spigot, always filling their bottles from one side of the fountain.   More than just a place to get water, this is also a gathering spot and a place for social connections.

 Above the fountain sits the Naiade who is commonly known by a much less proper nickname.  To locals she is “La Pupporona” which loosely translates to “The Busty One”, so called because of her one exposed breast (in Tuscan dialect the word puppora means breast).  That breast so scandalized a long-ago bishop that he tried to have the statue removed.  Fortunately he did not succeed! 

 The Pupporona is elegant, with softly draped folds in her garments, curvy hips, and perfectly coiffed hair.  She is made even more striking by the backdrop offered by the surrounding buildings, including the oche colored Church of San Salvatore (also known as the Church of the Misericordia).  The piazza where she resides is also named Salvatore, but don’t be surprised to hear it called Piazza della Pupporona, such is her fame.    

 Much loved by locals, she is occasionally adorned with a red scarf, a symbol of support for female victims of domestic violence.  Once, back in 2017, she was vandalized when someone drew a mustache on her face during the night.  Che peccato! The damage was quickly repaired.  I don’t believe the culprits were ever caught, but the vandalism caused quite an uproar. 

 On one of my first visits to Lucca I snapped a photo of the Naiade long before I knew the story behind her creation.  I just knew that she was lovely and she quickly became the representative image of Lucca in my memory.  Today, that photo is one I use as the symbol for Two Parts Italy and which accompanies each Monday morning email to subscribers.  It is still one of my all time favorite photos.  Be sure to stop by this small piazza when you visit Lucca. And don’t forget to fill your water bottle!

The statue of the Pupporona at Christmas time

Cartasia: A Celebration of Paper Art and Design, 2022 Edition

Shedding Fear, by Sofia Chamera

In normal times the art of Cartasia graces the city of Lucca every other year with wonderful creations made of paper. But, still playing catch-up from a missed year due to the pandemic, this year Cartasia returned for a second year in a row. The event is officially called the Lucca Biennale Cartasia, or LUBICA for short. But most simply call it Cartasia, as carta is the Italian word for paper. For some general information about Cartasia, and a peek at last year’s show, here is a link to a post from last year about the history of Cartasia and the 2021 show: www.twopartsitaly.com/blog/2021/9/16/lucca-biennale-cartasia

This year’s theme was La Pagina Bianca (The White Page). Festival organizers explain the theme as representing both endless possibilities and the anxiety of the unknown. Each artist interprets the theme in a personal way, but the common element is always the use of paper in their work. In addition to a theme, each year highlights the art of a different country. This year Germany was chosen as the central country, their entries (had interesting form, texture, and movement. Pictured below are works by German artists Donata Opperman and Barbara Friebe.

Some of the exhibits are large outdoor pieces displayed in Lucca’s historic squares. A wander through town gives everyone a chance to stop by and appreciate each piece, and makes it easy to return to a favorite one. But no touching - these pieces made of paper and cardboard are sturdy but still a bit delicate.

The Villa Bottini provided the perfect backdrop for some colorful fashion designs.

Another component of the exhibit takes places indoors with displays which include art, architecture, and design (including fashion). This year two historic venues played host to the indoor pieces. The Palazzo Ducale was filled with art and architecture pieces. The Villa Bottini hosted the fashion and design, as well as works from Germany and video art.

Entering the exhibit in the Palazzo Ducale, after climbing the grand staircase, is a large piece that at first glance is just a wall of blank sheets of paper. On closer inspection the pages are embossed with subtle designs created by Marta Wrublh and students from the Academia Linguistica delle Belle Arti in Genova. It’s a perfect representation of the exhibit’s theme.

Also in Palazzo Ducale was a room full of stunning female forms, all by the artist Chadwick Meyer. The detail and movement were extraordinary. And the names of the pieces - You are Secure, You are Powerful, You are Loved, You are at Peace - carry a powerful message (pictured left to right below).

Beyond that was a room of architectural structures in cardboard. Walking through them was like standing within the frame of the Eiffel Tower, or the inside of some complex biologic organism. Fascinating. Other rooms had beautifully sculpted animal figures, colorful paper mosaics made from tiny paper cones (the eye pictured below), ink and photo designs on paper. The creative variety was endless.

Across town in Villa Bottini were several rooms displaying art, masks, and fashion. The creations were imaginative, colorful, detailed, and just plain fun. The dresses below, by Caterina Crepax, were especially enchanting.

Many of the dresses were made of layered or folded sheets of paper, but one display, by the artist Anna Elisa Chapman, used paper that was actually spun into a type of yarn, just as wool would be spun into thread.

Cartasia runs through September 25, 2022. The next edition will be in 2024. It will be worth the wait!