A Spring Weekend in Lucca
It seems as if we waited a long time for spring to arrive this year. Cold and rainy weather lasted well into May. But finally, on the last weekend in May, spring finally showed up. And it is glorious!
The temperatures are mild, the breezes gentle, and the skies are filled with cotton ball clouds with only the smallest hint of rain. The trees are green, the scent of Jasmine fills the air, and pretty flower boxes fill balconies. Is there a better place to spend spring than in Tuscany?
The final days of May also brought two very enjoyable festivals to Lucca.
The first is the Lucca Medievale Festival. The event took place on the mura storiche (historic walls) where a medieval encampment sprang up along one of the large green bulwarks that jut out from the walls.
Throughout the camp craftsmen and women, all in costume, demonstrated medieval crafts. There were woodturners, blacksmiths, and chainmail makers.
Weavers and clothmakers worked alongside pottery artisans and clog makers. Rough beeswax candles were on display as were some ancient (and quite scary) medical instruments. A stone carver worked with small tools to create delicate designs.
Musicians played antique instruments; there was no shortage of medieval weapons. Throughout the weekend-long festival were exhibitions of historic dances, arts, crossbow competitions, and music. Lucca is in so many ways still a medieval town and the festival really brings that era to life. It’s an annual event - now is the time to make plans to visit Lucca next spring!
The second event to enliven the city in late May was the French Market. It is always exciting when this market comes to town. It is only fitting that the market fills Piazza Napoleone, Lucca’s largest piazza. The large open piazza was created during the time when Napoleon’s sister, Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, was the Principessa of Lucca. Her impact on Lucca is felt to this day. I think she would approve of hosting a French market in front of her palace!
The market featured typical French products – soaps, perfumes, and table linens as well as French foods. French breads were baked on site. French pastries and French cheeses filled the booths. And the quiches! Quiche Lorraine, goat cheese and tomato, veggie and even salmon quiches warm from the oven were ready to take home for a tasty French themed lunch.
Whenever the French market comes to Lucca, I line up to buy some bastoncini. These breads – much thicker than a breadstick but thinner than a small baguette – are a bit of an addiction for me. Crisp on the outside and soft on the inside, they are studded with olives, walnuts, pancetta, or cheese. Paired with a market quiche and a salad they transport me right back to Provence.
The spring days in Lucca are meant to be enjoyed - a wonderful pause between the cold, rainy season and the advent of hot weather and busy summer activities. Welcome spring!