A Butcher, A Baker, A Pasta maker And More
One of my favorite small shops in Lucca.
Lucca has a host of small, family run food shops – places that specialize in salumi (cured meats), formaggio (cheese), frutta e vedure (fruit and vegetables), or dolce (sweets).
The forno is the place to go to buy bread, the pasticceria for pastries and cakes, the latteria for milk products, and a macelleria for meats. There is even a polleria that has the most delicious chicken. Shopping for a meal might involve three or more shops. There is also a Wednesday afternoon organic market in Piazza San Francesco and a large outdoor market on Saturdays, a bit outside of the historic center of town. All have high quality products, many from local producers.
As much as I love shopping at these local places, there is one thing I long for that is nowhere to be found in Lucca – a good daily covered market. There once was a small permanent market in Lucca in the building that is still called Il Mercato, but that was long ago. Other than a few small shops (a butcher, a greengrocer, a chocolate shop) and a much loved local bar, most of the market has stood empty at least for the 5 years I have lived in Lucca (and probably much longer). The old Mercato building is currently undergoing restoration, which has sadly displaced most of the small vendors that had remained, including the Bar del Sole, which has caused a major controversy in town. Sadly, the restoration plan does not seem to include turning it back into a thriving food market.
The caffè inside the Sant’Ambrogio market.
The market I fantasize about having here in Lucca does actually exist – but it is in Florence.
Located in the Santa Croce district, the Mercato Sant’Ambrogio is the oldest indoor food market in Florence, in business since 1873. The colors, aromas, and sounds of the market give it a vibrant, full-of-life feel. Layer in the sound of Italian chatter and it is wonderful. The Sant’Ambrogio is my favorite place for an authentic Italian shopping experience. I can spend a whole morning just wandering through the market, with a quick stop for a coffee at the caffè. Or maybe a post-shopping lunch at the trattoria. This is one-stop-shopping at its finest!
The butcher counters are marvels. Not only are they full of standard cuts of meat (steaks, roasts, chicken, rabbit, lamb, pork) but also polpetti (meatballs), involtini, small packages of meat rolled around a variety of fillings, and larger roasts filled with a variety of stuffings. It’s a carnivores delight.
The different types of fish look as fresh as can be. A wide selection of fiish is difficult to find in Lucca and the Sant’Ambrogio has two large fish stalls. If I lived in Florence you would find me here every week buying some of the large shrimp, fish fillets, squid, or anchovies.
There are several stalls with cured meats. Large legs of prosciutto crudo (Italy’s famous cured but uncooked ham) hang overhead or sit on the counter waiting to be sliced. And not just one variety, but prosciutto from different regions, aged for different lengths of time, with different levels of sweetness vs saltiness, and different textures. Then there is prosciutto cotto (a cooked ham), and all types of salami.
And the cheese stalls! Tubs of fresh ricotta, rounds of pecorino, little goat cheeses, big rounds of gorgonzola, and balls of mozzarella just for starters. Soft cheese, hard cheese, and pretty little herb encrusted cheeses call my name as I pass by. There are more varieties of cheese than I could possibly name. I would like to try them all.
There are plenty of marinated goodies too – artichokes, olives, peppers, dried tomatoes, grilled eggplant, anchovies.
Add some of those to the cured meats and cheeses and you have an instant aperitivo spread or a tasty lunch.
Oh those fresh pastas! Plain or filled, they are a carb lovers treat. There are mounds of fresh linguini, filled ravioli, trofie, and gnocchi. Crocks of prepared sauces hold the perfect toppings for the various pastas.
What else is needed to stock the kitchen? You can find most everything here. Stalls of spices, beans, dried pasta, olive oil, and wine.
Probably the only thing that I skip is the lampredotto (tripe) booth. It smells wonderful but I just can’t convince myself to try this Tuscan delicacy. But for fans, the Sant’Ambrogio market is said to be one of the best places in Florence for a lampredotto panino. I will stick to some of the other booths serving prepared ready-to-go foods. And then a quick stop at one of the bakeries.
Just outside the covered market, outdoor vendors sell fruits, vegetables, nuts, olives, and breads. The produce looks like art to me with the variety of colors, shapes, and textures.
I spoke with one of the market vendors, telling him that I was from Lucca and, sadly, that we didn’t have a market like this. He gave me a knowing smile and said yes, it’s better in Florence. The merchants and the shoppers here seem to know what a gem they have in the Mercato Sant’Ambrogio. If only I could transport it to Lucca. But it sure is fun to visit when I am in Florence!
One of the bakeries in the Mercato Sant’Ambrogio
