Two Parts Italy

If asked to pick my favorite spot on the Portofino Peninsula, for me there would be no competition - it’s Camogli. Smaller than its busier neighbor Rapallo, and much more humble than nearby Portofino, Camogli strikes the perfect balance.

At its heart, Camogli remains a small fishing village. The name most likely originated as a contraction of the word Casa (house) and Mogli (Wives), a nod to the time when the men stayed away fishing and the wives kept things running in town. An alternative theory is that it signifies a town of closely packed houses. That fits too as Camogli is filled with rows of connected houses in sun-drenched colors. To add to the charm, many of the houses are decorated with tromp l’oeil paintings and pretty flower-filled balconies. Even the laundry is decorative.

Today, the area surrounding the small harbor and seaside promenade remains the center of action in this friendly and laid back town. And there is still a lot of fishing going on, with signs of that activity visible throughout town.

There are two ways to arrive in Camogli (other than by car). The train, just two stops and about 8 minutes away from Rapallo, arrives in the upper part of town. A walk down the main street in front of the station takes you past colorful houses, small parks, bougainvillea covered fences, little shops, and a small tourist info office (stop in for a town map). It also provides teasing glimpses of the sea down below.

The second way to arrive is by ferry from San Fruttuoso, arriving in the lower town’s small harbor. The harbor is full of fishing boats and small sailing boats.

Camogli’s harbor, viewed through its romantic fence full of hearts. Valentine’s Day is an event to celebrate in Camogli.

A walk along the back of the harbor leads to a long jetty with harbor and open sea views, an interesting art installation, and a peek at Genoa in the distance.

Up above the harbor, on a rocky cliff jutting out to the sea, sits the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, with one side facing the harbor and the other a small rocky swimming spot. Also on the the cliff is a 13th century defensive structure, the Castello della Dragonara (Dragon’s Castle). Built to defend against invaders, it did not stop an attack by the Milanese in the 15th century. Over time it has been destroyed, rebuilt, used as a prison and abandoned. Today it stands as a sleepy guard over the peaceful fishing village (it is not open to visitors).

Castello della Dragonara (photo by Jake Davis)

The rocky perch on which the church and castle stand separates the harbor from the seaside promenade that stretches along Via Garibaldi. The promenade plays host to shady archways, shops, restaurants (the local specialty is focaccia, but oh the gelato and granita!), beaches lined with colorful umbrellas, and distant views of sea and sailboats. I don’t think that there is a more tranquil, friendly spot on the Portofino Peninsula.

A day in Camogli was not nearly enough time to spend in this perfect little fishing village. I think fall would be a perfect time to return or perhaps in May for the annual Sagra del Pesce (Festival of the Fish). Or in August for the Festa della Stella Maris (Festival of the Star of the Sea) when candles float on the sea in honor of the Madonna who protects sailors. Decisions, decisions!