Two Parts Italy

Sometimes the calendar plays tricks. October, an autumn month, seemed more like late summer in Tuscany this year. The temperatures were mild, there was plenty of sunshine, and outdoor cafes were still in full swing. It was hard to even imagine cold weather.

Blue skies and fall color along Lucca’s walls.

Colorful umbrellas brighten dreary days.

But then the end of daylight savings time arrived, bringing shorter days and early nightfall. By mid-November temperatures were much cooler and the rains began. This should not have been a surprise, November is typically a very wet month, but it still seemed to catch us all off guard.

Out came the colorful umbrellas, making the city cheerful despite some dark, drizzly days. It finally felt like fall.

Now, just two weeks later, it is still officially autumn, at least until the winter solstice arrives on December 21. But it feels like winter. The days just keep getting shorter and it is cold! Really cold. And though this transition happens every year, somehow this year it seems more of a shock.

There is no room for complaint. The fall color is gorgeous. The fog and rain have a mysterious beauty. Italy needs the rain. The umbrellas are colorful. The cold air is invigorating and walking atop the walls of Lucca at dusk on a chilly evening is inspiring. Crisp late autumn beauty is everywhere.

Cranberries are nearly impossible to find in an Italian market. These were expensive, but worth it for a traditional apple cranberry Thanksgiving pie.

Late November brought “American-ish” Thanksgiving celebrations. They began with a minor miracle - I actually found fresh cranberries in Italy! Hard to find here, they are an essential ingredient when I make an apple-cranberry pie and it just doesn’t feel like Thanksgiving without that pie!

On Thanksgiving day, a small gathering at the home of friends was a joy. There were prosecco filled glasses, a wonderful dinner with a not-quite-traditional (but very delicious) stuffed chicken breast, all the traditional trimmings, and lots of laughter.

We were all reminded of the many blessings we have found here in Italy. And while I always miss my family back in the US at this time of year, I appreciate that they remain with me in spirit and that modern technology helps keep us connected. Not to mention that soon a big jet will whisk me off for a visit to NM where I can hug them in person!

And now Lucca is gearing up for the winter holiday season. Chestnuts are roasting and all around town Christmas decorations are going up. This year it seems the city of Lucca is going all out, with some new and exciting displays filling the piazzas with Christmas spirit.

For the next few weeks I will happily don my winter clothing to go outdoors. I will spend time walking up on the walls and through town, crunching through the last of the fall leaves, enjoying the holiday lights and sparkle, watching the ice skaters in Piazza Napoleone, visiting churches with lovely Nativity displays, and enjoying the change of seasons from autumn to winter.