Hollywood comes to Lucca

For a couple of months this spring Lucca became a film set. All through town movie crews, and stars from both Hollywood and Italy, filmed a new Peter Greenaway film. The names of the American film stars may be familiar - Dustin Hoffman and Helen Hunt. Both spent time in Lucca before and during filming and star sightings became quite the topic of conversation around town. And while I did not have any close encounters with the actors, the word was that they were both gracious and friendly, patiently posing for photos with locals and tourists alike.

(Photo below of Dustin Hoffmann, and his serious looking bodyguard, courtesy of a friend)

The title of the film is not yet final, originally the script was titled Lucca Mortis, but the working title during filming was Tower Stories. Two towers play a central role in the story - the Twin Towers in NY (the film is set just after their collapse) and Lucca’s famous Torre Guinigi.

According to an interview given by the director, Hoffman’s character, Jacob, is an elderly man who returns to Lucca after the 911 attacks in New York. His journey Lucca, where his grandmother was born, is in search of his family roots. Confronting his own death, an inevitability of aging, is a major theme of the film.

Having absolutely no experience in film making, acting, or anything Hollywood, the part I found fascinating was the process of filming.

One day, I watched as crews hung laundry along via del Fosso. As for why the laundry was arranged by color - one line of blue boxers, one of yellow shirts, one of white long johns, etc - I guess we will have to see the film to figure this out.

One thing I learned was just how much equipment, and how many trucks, were needed for film making. There were trucks for lighting, trucks with electrical equipment, costume trucks, and food trucks to feed the crew. Lucca is a very small town and it was filled with all the movie making paraphernalia.

Another movie making requirement is the use of extras. Months before filming started a call for extras went out. There were a lot of people interested. Was it a chance for fame or because the daily pay was good?

One rainy day saw a long line of locals waiting for a chance to sign up to participate.

Not all the extras were adults - how cute are these child extras dressed in school girl costumes with their mammas standing watch ? It will be fun to watch for their appearance in the final film.

In this photo the real statue is on the left, the movie madonna on the right.

Lucca has a famous statue of a madonna surrounded by a halo of stars - the Madonna lo Stellario. Apparently it was not in a perfect position for the film makers as they created a temporary one of their own. I think the original is best!

The movie finished most of the filming in May, but in late June / early July the crew returned to Lucca to film a few more scenes as well as some drone shots over the city. Drones are scheduled to film along Via Guinigi in the next few days. I wonder if the palazzo where my apartment is located, currently all wrapped in scaffolding for a roof replacement, will make the final cut?

A photo from a local news story shows a scene filmed just down the street from my apartment.

The movie should reach theaters sometime in 2025. Here’s hoping that Lucca will be the site of the premier!

This bit of Dustin Hoffman memorabilia was seen in the window of a local bookstore during filming.

A Spring Weekend in Lucca

It seems as if we waited a long time for spring to arrive this year.  Cold and rainy weather lasted well into May.  But finally, on the last weekend in May, spring finally showed up.  And it is glorious!  

The temperatures are mild, the breezes gentle, and the skies are filled with cotton ball clouds with only the smallest hint of rain. The trees are green, the scent of Jasmine fills the air, and pretty flower boxes fill balconies. Is there a better place to spend spring than in Tuscany? 

 The final days of May also brought two very enjoyable festivals to Lucca. 

The first is the Lucca Medievale Festival.   The event took place on the mura storiche (historic walls) where a medieval encampment sprang up along one of the large green bulwarks that jut out from the walls.  

Throughout the camp craftsmen and women, all in costume, demonstrated medieval crafts.  There were woodturners, blacksmiths, and chainmail makers.

Weavers and clothmakers worked alongside pottery artisans and clog makers. Rough beeswax candles were on display as were some ancient (and quite scary) medical instruments.  A stone carver worked with small tools to create delicate designs.

Musicians played antique instruments; there was no shortage of medieval weapons. Throughout the weekend-long festival were exhibitions of historic dances, arts, crossbow competitions, and music. Lucca is in so many ways still a medieval town and the festival really brings that era to life. It’s an annual event - now is the time to make plans to visit Lucca next spring!

 The second event to enliven the city in late May was the French Market.  It is always exciting when this market comes to town. It is only fitting that the market fills Piazza Napoleone, Lucca’s largest piazza.  The large open piazza was created during the time when Napoleon’s sister, Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, was the Principessa of Lucca.  Her impact on Lucca is felt to this day. I think she would approve of hosting a French market in front of her palace!

 The market featured typical French products – soaps, perfumes, and table linens as well as French foods.   French breads were baked on site. French pastries and French cheeses filled the booths.  And the quiches! Quiche Lorraine, goat cheese and tomato, veggie and even salmon quiches warm from the oven were ready to take home for a tasty French themed lunch. 

Whenever the French market comes to Lucca, I line up to buy some bastoncini.  These breads – much thicker than a breadstick but thinner than a small baguette – are a bit of an addiction for me.  Crisp on the outside and soft on the inside, they are studded with olives, walnuts, pancetta, or cheese.   Paired with a market quiche and a salad they transport me right back to Provence. 

 The spring days in Lucca are meant to be enjoyed - a wonderful pause between the cold, rainy season and the advent of hot weather and busy summer activities. Welcome spring!

A Spring Time Market in Padova

A cold and rainy March gave way to an April with very erratic weather in northern Italy.  Some days felt very much like spring, a couple of days brought summer temperatures, and other days were unseasonably cold.  But that didn’t stop spring produce from appearing in the markets, providing lots of inspiration for early spring cooking. I spent some time earlier this month in Padova, a city with an exceptionally good food market. Fortunately, I had a sunny day perfect for exploring the market.  A morning spent shopping here is, to me at least, every bit as wonderful as visiting the major attractions of the city. 

The Palazzo della Ragione provides a beautiful and historic backdrop for Padova’s market

Part of the market takes place outdoors in front of the beautiful Palazzo della Ragione where a piazza full of stalls sell the freshest, most beautiful produce.  It would be hard to ask for a better setting than this historic spot.

 In April the spring vegetables take center stage.   The colorful choices start with a whole palette of shades of green.  Fat green asparagus sit alongside the white variety, playing off the thin deep green shoots of the nearby agretti and bags of shelled peas.  

 The leeks are pale with green tops while the fresh pea pods are a vibrant shade of green.  There are green with a yellow tinge fava beans, perfect to snack on paired with a bit of salty cheese.  And broad, flat green beans which remind me of the ones my Italian grandfather grew in his New York backyard. 

 For contrast, yellow and red peppers provide some brilliant color alongside pale white new onions and golden brown new potatoes. 

 Purple tinged artichokes are piled up to be sold whole or already trimmed and either cut in half or pared down to just the heart (why can’t I find these in Lucca?).  

 The strawberries are mouthwatering – they were bright red, sweet, and delicious.   

The second half of the market takes place indoors underneath the Palazzo della Ragione. 

Here you’ll find carnivore heaven with the most wonderful selection of meats.  The Macellai (butchers) display everything from simple cuts to prepared rolled and stuffed roasts of beef, chicken, guinea fowl, and turkey.  Prepared polpette (meatballs) too.  The salumeria (delis) have salami, prosciutto, bresaola, and other meats for slicing. 

 The Pescivendoli (fishmongers) sell whole fish, fillets, big piovra (octopus), sardines and anchovies, shrimp, and lots of shellfish varieties.  Whipped baccala (a specialy of the Venetian area) is available by the scoopful. 

 And the formaggi (cheeses)!  The scent is swoon-worthy and the choices seemingly endless. 

 Other stalls display olives, cicchetti (those small Venetian style bites of goodness), fresh pasta, grains, spices, honey, and a wide selection of prepared foods. The flower stall was colorful and featured spring tulips.

 Everytime I visit this market I begin to think that I should move to Padova - it really is a cook’s dream. My next visit will have to be longer and in an apartment with a kitchen! If the springtime market is this wonderful, just imagine what summer will bring! 

A Busy Week in Lucca

Lucca has been a whirlwind of activity this week - lots of wonderful events happening all over town. Also lots visitors as Italians “make a bridge” to create an extra long weekend between the Liberation Day national holiday on Thursday April 25th and the end of the weekend on Sunday the 28th.

The weather has remained chilly - well below normal and rainy. But that has not hampered the fun. I’ve kept busy with markets, music, a saint’s day festival, the Liberation Day ceremonies, and dance performances. All in one week! With all that going on, I decided that an extra post was needed to share some photos from this busy week, so I am sneaking this one in on a Saturday.

The 25th was the national holiday that kicked off the long weekend. Liberation Day celebrates the end of Nazi occupation of Italy at the conclusion of WWII. The ceremony begins in the courtyard of the Palazzo Ducale with speeches, brass bands, and military groups. An honor guard lays a wreath at Lucca’s memorial for locals lost in war. The day is one of remembrance but also one that brings into focus the tragedy of all wars and the human toll that they take. I find that the horrors of war feel so much closer here, and throughout Europe, than in the US. These monuments to all those lost are incredibly moving.

Two major cultural events are taking place this week, Lucca Classica and Lucca Dance Meeting. Both bring elegant artistry to the city.

Concerts and dance exhibitions take place in settings throughout town, both indoors and in the piazzas.

An added bonus is the reopening of Caffè di Simo. Closed for the last 12 years, it once played host to Lucca’s artistic community. Puccini played piano here at the end of the 19th century (the name was Caffè Casali at that time). Imagine the lively discussions that took place as poets, musicians, and writers gathered here. Imagine Puccini at the keyboard!

The caffè has recently reopened, for a limited time, as a venue for small performances linked to celebrations to mark 100 years since Puccini’s death in November of 1924. Two performances this week gave me the chance to soak in the atmosphere of the historic caffè, largely unchanged since Puccini’s time. In the first, I listened to a performance of Puccini music and Neapolitan songs. I was surprised to learn that Puccini wrote some ninne nanne (lullabies)! The second was in conjunction with the Dance Meeting and featured a narration of episodes from Puccini’s life (a colorful one!) along with arias sung by two very talented women (a soprano and a mezzo soprano) with accompanying interpretive dance. The voices were soaring, the dance perfectly in tune with the music, and the small venue full of history. Wow!

Lucca’s favorite saint - Santa Zita - is celebrated each year with her very own festival and lots and lots of flowers. The Basilica of San Frediano is the place to go to view the saint’s preserved body. During the festival it is moved front and center in the middle of the church, surrounded by candles and flowers.

This temporary floral island in placed in front of the Basilica of San Frediano in remembrance of Santa Zita, who died April 27, 1278.

Put a euro in the basket, pass by and touch her glass sarcophagus, light a candle and you are guaranteed another year in Lucca (OK, I made that last part up but it has worked for me thus far!)

Santa Zita is honored in the Basilica of San Frediano on her feast day.

Because one of Santa Zita’s miracles involved flowers, the celebration includes a floral island created in front of the church and a flower market that fills the nearby Piazza Anfiteatro.

Movie making in progress! (Photo courtesy of a local friend)

In addition to all of these events, there is also a movie shoot going on throughout town, with sightings of Hollywood stars and interesting glimpses into the mechanics of movie making (and a bit of traffic chaos and closed streets). Do you recognize the leading man captured in this photo?

Busy week indeed!

Flowers, Flags, And A Historic Caffè Make For A Busy Weekend in Lucca

Celebrating Lucca’s liberation from the dreaded Pisans in the year 1369 with a Medieval procession.

The first full weekend of April was a very busy time in Lucca.  Multiple events filled the days, facilitated by warm spring weather.

The weekend activities began with Verdemura, the annual spring garden show which takes place atop Lucca’s historic walls.  

The show always has an abundance of things to plant – roses, fruit trees, bulbs, a variety of flowers, and lots of herbs – and this year was no exception.  The 2024 show included special exhibits featuring tulips of all colors, sizes, and petal types. 

Along with plants, artisans demonstrated their crafts and booths were filled with wonderful things to purchase.   Garden art, decorative home and garden items, soaps and lotions, and artwork were just some of things available.

There was no shortage of food products at the garden show.  Vendors had everything from breads, to cheeses, salumi, wines, syrups, spices, and sweets.

Passersby stopping for a glimpse of the newly reopened Caffè di Simo

The first weekend in April also saw two historic events.  The first was the reopening of Caffè di Simo.  The caffè had been shuttered for 12 years, a cause for dismay in Lucca because of its historic importance.  Originally named Caffè Caselli, it  has a long and storied history as a gathering place for artists and intellectuals.  Giacomo Puccini was a frequent patron and the reopening is for a limited time to host special events marking 100 years since his death.  The opening came with an opera performance in a nearby piazza and a chance to briefly walk through the caffè.   More events are scheduled through April and May, each with limited admission due to the small size of the caffè. I am looking forward to seeing a performance there later this month.

The last of the weekend events was the celebration of Liberation Day, marking the year 1369 and the end of Pisa’s rule over Lucca.  The people of Lucca have long memories! They mark this day each year, on the Sunday following Easter, with great pageantry.  Picture a procession with medieval costumes, ladies in flowing gowns, large banners from the various neighborhoods of Lucca’s historic center, drummers (batteriste), a zampognari (bagpipe player) and lanciatori di bandiera (flag throwers).  Then add in some fierce looking Balestrieri carrying crossbows (balestre) and longbows (archi lunghi) proceeding through Lucca’s medieval streets.  Watching the procession is to become a time traveler.

The procession eventually arrives to the Duomo (Church of San Martino) where a mass is held.   Afterwards, it is into the piazza for some speeches and performances by the musicians and flag throwers. One flag, two flags, three flags are sent spinning around and soaring into the air to be caught and tossed again.  One of the flag throwers managed 4 flags, employing both their arms and feet in the process, delighting the crowd that gathered to watch. (2 short videos are posted on the Two Parts Italy Facebook page)

 A very busy weekend and a great way to welcome April!