From Villa Bertolli to Villa Santo Stefano: An Italian Story of Olives, Grapes, and Families

Most Italian fairytales begin with these words: C’era una volta (loosely translated as “once upon a time”). Today I have a bit of a true-life fairytale to tell, so I will start with those words.

C’era una volta, around 160 years ago, when Francesco and Caterina Bertolli tended to their olives, pressed them, and sold the olive oil out of a small shop in the San Donato neighborhood of Lucca in Tuscany. They also grew grapes on their land and made a little wine, though the oil was their main product.

In the late 1800’s, some Bertolli family members emigrated to the United States and began to import the family’s olive oil, making Bertolli the first Italian olive oil to establish as US presence. Eventually the business in Lucca passed down through the generations. The company was nationalized by Mussolini in the 1930’s and by 1972 the family no longer owned the company or the rights to the Bertolli name for their olive oil. Not all fairytales have happy endings! The family did still own a lovely piece of property in the hills above Lucca, the Villa Bertolli, which had olive trees and around 1 hectare (about 2.5 acres) of vineyard. The fairytale doesn’t end yet though, for there is another chapter yet to come.

A view of the valley from the former Villa Bertolli

The tale continues in 2001 when a German couple, Wolfgang Reitzle and Nina Ruge, purchased the historic property from the Bertolli family. Originally they thought of it as a vacation property, and the property certainly had fairytale-like qualities that would make it perfect as a vacation spot. But Mr. Reitzle soon became interested in both the olive oil and the small production of wine on the estate. Since purchasing the property he has expanded it to include 12 hectares of land, made a serious study of winemaking, hired some very talented winemakers, and become the proprietor of a thriving vineyard and winery, now renamed Villa Santo Stefano. The name comes from the historic church of Santo Stefano which is just up the road from the villa. Today the villa not only produces wonderful wines but also their own label of extra virgin olive oil, a nod to those long ago Bertollis. The winery also gives tours and tastings, by appointment, and also offers guest lodging.

Villa Santo Stefano is an elegant estate. And the views! The property overlooks vineyards and valleys, has graceful covered pergolas, fountains, and immaculate landscaping. I would happily do any job needed, from trimming the flowers to sweeping out the cellars, if only I could live on site!

One of the restored buildings, now home to guest suites, at Villa Santo Stefano

Petra, sharing information about the wines of Vila Santo Stefano (the old rattan wrapped bottles at the bottom are left over from the Bertolli’s)

On a recent Sunday, a small group of friends and I made a visit to the villa. We were escorted through the property by the very knowledgeable estate manager, Petra Pforr.

Petra shared the history of the estate, the grape varietals grown, the evolution of the wine production, along with the details of Villa Santo Stefano’s production philosophy and processes. The information she shared was fascinating!

Several of the estate buildings have been restored and include exquisite, luxurious guest spaces. The suites range from cozy yet upscale mini-apartments to a large villa in the former barn. The large villa has multiple bedrooms, an elegant living room, a spectacular kitchen, and a large outdoor space with a private pool. Oh to be a guest there!

The winery may be a relatively small operation, producing around 50,000 bottles per year, but it is an incredibly high-tech one. No dark cellars or dusty old bottles here. No seen-better-days barrels. Each part of the facilty is modern and spacious. Computers control the temperature and humidity to create optimum conditions for maturing wines. The steel tanks gleam and clear glass rods along the sides of the tanks give a sneak peak of the red and rosato wines fermenting inside. I’ve never thought of steel vats as beautiful before, but the ones as Villa Santo Stefano seem like works of art crossed with modern scientific instruments.

The cellar is large with vaulted brick ceilings and soft lighting. Lining the space are beautiful French oak barrels, about 1/3 of which are replaced each year. That is a costly undertaking but essential in maintaining the quality of the wines. And quality is key at Villa Santo Stefano.

Of course the most important part of a winery is the wines themselves - and Villa Santo Stefano did not disappoint. During the tasting, in the estates beautiful banquet room, Petra discussed each wine including the grapes used and its unique characteristics.

The wines we sampled included a delicate pale pink Rosato (Luna), a crisp Vermentino (Gioia), and 3 different reds (Volo, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Alicante grapes), Sereno (an 80% Sangiovese blend, a Super Tuscan) and Loto (a Cabernet, Merlot, and Petit Verdot blend).

Loto is considered the Villa’s signature wine. It was the first one produced at Santo Stefano in 2006. Lots is a lovely wine, deep red in color with just the right fullness and dryness. I could tell you I tasted berries, smoke, and vanilla but that would only mean that I read the brochure! I just know that the first taste made me smile and want to sip some more. I liked all the wines we tasted, but this is the one I took home with me - though I may have to go back in summer for some of the Rosato, which would be the perfect crisp summer wine. Then again, the Vermentino and the other two reds were really good too. I think each of my friends had a different favorite. We definitely all carried some home with us.

A visit to Villa Santo Stefano is a treat. The setting is spectacular, the guest suites drool-worthy, the production areas high-tech yet with the personal touch of the winemakers. The vats and the barrel room are the stuff of fairytales for wine lovers. Thanks so much to Petra for sharing her knowledge and love of wine and of this very special property! Thanks also go to the long ago Bertolli family and the current Reitzle - Ruge family for sharing their property and their stories.

For more information: www.villa-santostefano.it or Petra.pforr@villa-santostefano.it

An Autumn Weekend in Pontremoli

For 5 days at the end of October and beginning of November my Italian hometown of Lucca hosts the huge Lucca Comics and Games event.   Picture 75,000+ people a day descending on the small, walled city and a series of white tents lining the historic walls and filling the piazzas.   It is an important economic event for the city and a big deal for afficionados of costumes, gaming, anime, superheroes and the like.  Lots of people love it, but for some of us it is simply crowds and chaos.  This year, after two pandemic years in which the festival was cancelled (2020) or scaled back (2021), the crowds were predicted to be bigger than ever.  That made it the perfect time to for me to plan an out-of-town escape. 

One of Pontremoli’s small alleyways - an invitation to explore!

 This year my “escape from comics” destination was suggested by Nancy, one of Two Parts Italy’s readers. Just as I was trying to decide where to go over comics, I received a lovely email from her asking if I’d ever been to Pontremoli.  She went on to say that she had just spent several days there and thought it was just the kind of place I would love.  She included photos and recommendations for things to do.  What serendipity!  I had never been to Pontremoli and receiving that email was all the inspiration I needed.  I quickly found that I could get to Pontremoli by train from Lucca in under 2 hours.  I found a lovely Airbnb apartment to rent and a friend who was ready to share the adventure.  The more I read about the town, the more excited I was to visit. I am so glad that Nancy took the time to write to me!

Pontremoli is a village in the Massa-Carrara Province of Tuscany, population around 7000.  The town lies in the historical region of the Lunigiana, which straddles the regions of Tuscany and Liguria.  It is a region of mountains, forests, rivers, old towers, castles, and small medieval hamlets.  The Via Francigena, the pilgrim’s route between Canterbury and Rome, crosses the area including right through Pontremoli. 

Pontremoli’s historic center as seen from one of the foot bridges over the Torrente Verde

 Like many of the medieval towns in the region, Pontremoli has a well-preserved centro storico (historic center) which feels a world apart from the more modern town beyond.  The centro storico is wedged between two rivers, the Torrente Verde and the Fiume Magra.  The rivers are crossed by a series of old stone bridges.  Ponte is the Italian word for bridge and Pontremoli means trembling bridge.  Perhaps the original, ancient wooden bridges trembled, but today the bridges are rock solid. 

Several of the bridges are for foot traffic only. Strolling across them gives views of the green riverbanks, parks, medieval buildings, and the Castello del Piagnaro which sits high above the village. 

My companion and I quickly settled into the habit of a daily walk across the Ponte della Cresa to the north, down the green space along the Torrente Verde, across the Ponte Stemma on the south, and to the tip of Pontremoli where the Torrente Verde joins the Fiume Magra, forming one larger river. A green and peaceful park sits at this spot, quiet other than the sound of the tumbling waters of the two rivers. 

During this October visit the trees where changing colors and the fallen leaves made for a special landscape during our walks.

The Torre del Cacciaguerra, Pontremoli

 The historic center stretches between two tower gates along what is basically one long street, although the street name changes several times from Via Cavour to Via Armani to Via Garibaldi. 

Along the way are two side-by-side piazzas, the Piazza della Repubblica and the Piazza del Duomo.  Long ago the two piazzas divided the town between two opposing groups, the Guelphs and Ghibellines, preventing all-out conflict. 

A very tall campanile (bell tower), built in 1322 as part of a city fortress, stands between the two piazzas and is known by two names – The Campanone (meaning really big bell tower) and the Torre del Cacciaguerra (Tower of the War Fighters). 

Today there are no warring factions and the two pretty squares are ringed with cafes and shops. The piazzas are also where the Saturday market is held. Visiting a local Saturday market is a great cultural experience in any small village and the one in Pontremoli was no exception. Local produce, especially from the fall harvest, made for a colorful market.

The route to the castle

 Off the main street are several alleys which climb up towards the castle.  The walk is uphill but not terribly steep and the experience of wandering through the medieval castle village is well worth the climb.  The castle also houses a museum with pre-historic rock carvings called Stele.  More on the castle and the Stele in a future post !

 Pontremoli was a perfect fall getaway and wonderful spot for a long weekend.  Views over the river, the sound of rushing water, green spaces, changing leaves, and stone bridges made for a perfect weekend escape.

Adding to the fun, we found some wonderful restaurants serving local dishes such as Testaroli (a type of large round crepe) with Pesto and Frittelle di Farina di Castagna (little fried chestnut flour cakes) con Ricotta. 

For morning coffee and a pastry, the Antica Pasticceria e Caffè degli Svizzeri with its scrumptious pastries and beautiful liberty-style café, can’t be beat. 

Where the Torrente Verde joins the Fiume Magra

The Rasponi Gardens in Ravenna

With all of the important historic sights and stunning mosaics to see in Ravenna it is important to take some time out. A stop for a coffee or a leisurely lunch provides time to reflect and organize one’s impressions and memories. Even better is to stop by a pretty garden for a few moments of quiet between all the monuments. On a recent trip to Ravenna, two small gardens provided a much needed break in my sightseeing. Both were created by the Rasponi family, who were important economic and political forces in the years between the 1500’s and 1800’s.

Giardino delle Erbe Dimenticate (also called Giardino Rasponi), Ravenna

The first garden was a purely accidental find. While walking across town I spotted a sign for a botanic garden just off Piazza J.F. Kennedy and behind the Palazzo Rasponi dalle Teste. Inside was the sweetest small space called the Giardino delle Erbe Dimenticate (The Forgotten Herb Garden). Originally a walled garden for the oldest Rasponi palazzo in Ravenna, it was recently restored and now serves as a public space. It is not a big garden, just large enough to have a central fountain surrounded by flower and herb beds. Pomegranate and apple trees provide shade. Small tables are scattered throughout - perfect spots for a break from sightseeing or for a bit of lunch from the cafe at the front of the garden. These little almost-hidden spots are some of the most enchanting places to discover.

The second garden space was the Giardini Pensili (Hanging Gardens). The gardens, along with the Rasponi Crypt, are the oldest surviving parts of another Palazzo Rasponi, dating from the late 1700’s, most of which was destroyed by fire in the 1920’s. Today the gardens and crypt lie within the Palazzo della Provincia complex in Piazza San Francesco, not far from Dante’s tomb. The gardens are spread over several terraces which climb up around the central tower housing the crypt. The first garden is on the ground floor and set around a large 3-tiered central fountain. There are hedges and trees and a wonderful feeling of serenity here. From the entry garden, a path leads to the crypt.

The lowest level of the Giardini Pensili (Hanging Gardens)

The crypt most likely served as a small family chapel, it was never used as a burial space. It has wonderful curved brick walls with deep arches between several small rooms. The floors contain some ancient mosaics. Today small art pieces are on display.

Outside the crypt, a staircase leads to the next level of the gardens. Here is a wonderful, restful spot - a shaded arbor with views over the lower garden. What a cool and refreshing spot this must have provided the long ago Rasponi family. Or perhaps it was under this shade that Lord Byron sat with his lover, the Contessa Guiccioli, when he was in Ravenna. The arbor certainly has a romantic air about it.

The top level of the gardens shift the view from the interior of the complex to the outside world. The Basilica of San Francesco and its campanile (bell tower), along with distant views of rooftops and towers, can be seen from this open platform with its interesting ground cover of grass and white rock. There is also a great view of the merlons atop the tower which houses the crypt (the merlons are the M-shaped brick pillars at the very top of many towers and castles).

The climb down from the top gives a different perspective on the gardens and the tower housing the crypt.

Just outside the complex is a perfect place for another break - the Caffè Pasticceria Palumbo, set just under the portico in Piazza San Francesco.

Agriturismo Cretaiole and Luciano's Farm

Some places, and some people, are special.  Agriturismo Cretaiole is one such place and Luciano Moricciani, its founder, is the special person who started it all.  Son Carlo and grandson Nicco, both of whom are pretty special too, have taken over much of the day-to-day operations at the Cretaiole with the help of the delightful Fernanda who is a whiz at organizing everything for guests. But it is Luciano, at 82 years of age, who remains the steady hand, keeper of history, and the warm heart behind the agriturismo and farm.  

Agriturismo Cretaiole - a classic Tuscan stone farmhouse with beautiful accommodations for up to 20 guests.

 I’ve written about Cretaiole before – after my first visit in 2016 and again in 2020. The 2020 visit took place during the pandemic when no other tourists were around. At that time, Carlo kindly allowed my friend and I to stay and participate in the olive harvest.  The quiet of that visit was quite a contrast to the laughter and activity during my first stay. For more info, the previous posts can be found here: www.twopartsitaly.com/2020/11/2/1erwrj2r1njhhb89nvw9j1b43wv5ic. www.twopartsitaly.com/2016/12/14/a-week-at-agriturismo-cretiaole

The living room / kitchen of the Il Granaio apartment at Cretaiole

This year the visitors have returned, many of whom waited nearly three years to reschedule pandemic cancelled trips.  They came for many reasons – the beauty of the Val d’Orcia, the excellent local wines, the peacefulness of Cretaiole’s setting. They also arrived to take part in the wonderful activities included in Cretaiole’s “Dolce Vita” package - pici making, truffle hunting, early morning hikes, group dinners, wine and olive oil tasting. And then there is “The Isabella Experience” which includes luxury linens and many special touches as well as the opportunity to visit all the small villages of the Val d’Orcia which are just a short drive from Cretaiole. 

And, as one guest told me, she came because she’d read about Luciano in several blog posts and had been waiting for 3 years to drink grappa with him! 

 One of the highlights of a Cretaiole stay is a chance to visit Luciano’s farm, Podere San Gregorio, just 10 minutes from Cretaiole.  During my October visit Luciano was recovering from a fall but he was still enthusiastic about walking the farm with us.  He is the person most involved with the animals including sheep, chickens, geese, guinea fowl, one goat, a friendly dog, and some very large pigs.  The sheep are pretty much pets but the pigs are the source of some of the farm’s specialties – prosciutto and salami – all prepared on-site. 

The farm tour includes a stop at the barn where some of the oldest farm tools can be seen and where fascinating tales of the old ways of picking olives and harvesting wheat are told by both Luciano and grandson Nicco.  It is easy to imagine the young Luciano scrambling up the trees on the rather rickety ladder that still hangs in the barn, basket at his waist, collecting olives and trying not to fall out of the tree (a common hazard in those days).

Luciano and me at Podere San Gregorio. I will present this photo on my return to claim a bottle of his Vin Santo.

Next stop: the building where the preparation of meats, sauces, and Vin Santo takes place.  A promise was made that anyone who returns to the farm and presents a photo of themselves with Luciano, hands on the Vin Santo casks, takes home a free bottle.  You can bet I have that photo saved, more because I hope to have another visit with Luciano then for the free bottle. Although that Vin Santo is really tasty!

 Behind the work room is the small room where the white grapes for vin santo are dried. The grapes were still quite moist in mid-October, having only been harvested two weeks before.  They tasted sweet and the aroma was wonderful.

 Besides the barn, garden, work rooms, and animals there is also the large space where the wine is made and the olive oil stored.  Next door is an aging room for pecorino cheese, prosciutto, and salami. The grape harvest had taken place a week or two before, the grapes pressed and the wine placed into the large vats to begin fermenting.  Huge piles of dried grape skins remained, waiting to be sent off to grappa makers.  The olive harvest will take place in late October / early November, so soon the olive oil tanks will be filled with the new 2022 oil.  I would like to go back even if just to buy some of the new oil.

 After the farm tour we all gathered around tables for a straight-from-the-farm lunch.  Slices of bread with Cretaiole olive oil (it is really, really good), local pecorino aged on the farm, platters of prosciutto and salami, caprese salad, and Cretaiole red wine (also quite good).  We finished with some of Luciano’s very special Vin Santo and cantucci for dipping. There may even have been a bit of grappa poured.

It was wonderful to have Luciano with us on the farm tour and again at Cretaiole’s group pici dinner.   He clearly enjoys sharing his stories and his farm with visitors.  He also enjoys talking with visitors and hearing the stories they tell (he speaks Italian and is also great at using google translate to speak with English speaking visitors).  He has a lifetime of experience as an authentic Tuscan contadino (farmer) but, even better, he shares the joy of his land, his family, his farm, and his heart.  Luciano is one very special part of the Cretaiole experience. 

Ti voglio bene Luciano!

Ravenna Part Two: Basilica di San Vitale and the Galla Placidia Mausoleum

This week, more about Ravenna and another two of the city’s important historical sites. One is quite small and the other much larger.

First, the smaller of the two, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. Galla Placidia, born around 390 AD, was the daughter of a Roman Emperor (Theodosius I) and wife to both Ataulf, king of the Visigoths, and the Roman Emperor Constantius III. She was also the mother of an emperor. She was powerful in her own right, playing a major role in Roman life and politics. Her contributions to society included construction and restoration of churches, including the mausoleum named for her in Ravenna. Although it is called a mausoleum, the building was used as a chapel and it is not Galla Placidia’s final resting place.

The mausoleum is small and intimate, constructed in the shape of a cross. Plain on the outside, it is stunningly beautiful inside - full of mosaics in dazzling blues and greens, touches of red, and white robed prophets. All of the upper portions of the interior, including the dome, the vaults, and the arches, are filled with brilliant detail and symbolism. There are starry skies, flowers and vines, animals, and a host of religious figures.

So much beauty in such a small space is breathtaking. The intimate size is welcoming and It feels a bit like a spiritual hug.

Detail of one of the lunettes, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia

I didn’t imagine anything could compare, and yet, just across the grassy field, lies the Basilica of San Vitale…..

The Basilica of San Vitale, Ravenna

The much larger Basilica of San Vitale is different - less intimate, the building more angular outside with more distinct spaces inside. With decoration that goes from floor to ceiling it is hard to know where to look first.

Interior, Basilica of San Vitale, Ravenna

The mosaics are somehow less soft and more crisp, the imagery more clear. Where the Galla Placidia enchants you in to a mystic spirituality the San Vito demands you step up and take note.

Is one more beautiful than the other? Absolutely not, the Basilica is just as amazing but in a different way.

The Basilica’s website says that “getting out of San Vitale is not getting out of a church, is like being torn from a mother’s womb. You have to close your eyes because the light blinds (even if it’s not sunny), the voices deafen (even if people are not there), the world pushes and impacts”. I cannot argue. Stepping inside is to be transported to another world and on leaving it is quite a shock to discover the same old cacophonous world outside. It is that beautiful and enveloping.

The exterior of the Basilica is octagonal, unusual for a basilica, with buttresses. Inside there are huge columns, a central dome, two stories filled with arches and smaller columns (with some of the arches with painted ceilings rather than mosaics), and several alcoves. Pale translucent windows filter the light. Mosaic floors (detail below) are filled with pattern and muted color.

And the mosaics! The dominant color here is a soft green, with plenty of gold too. And almost every surface is decorated in mosaic scenes, even the arched entrances into each alcove. Bible scenes, saints, angels and apostles are everywhere.

With all of the mosaic filled churches in Ravenna, it is impressive that each has its own character and beauty. I couldn’t begin to choose a favorite among them. Put them all together and it is easy to see why Ravenna is filled with UNESCO World Heritage sites. What a treasure!