A Walk Through Peccioli

Tuscany is dotted with hill towns, including several that are close enough to visit as a day trip from my home base in Lucca.  Barga and Montecatini Alto are easily reachable by train or bus.  Others, including Montecarlo, Collodi, Volterra, and San Gimignano, are an easy car ride away.  I’ve been lucky to spend time in each over the years I’ve been in Lucca but there are still so many hill towns left for me to explore!

 On a recent outing, arranged by The Tuscan Wanderer, we drove through the Valdera, the Valley of the Era River, as we returned to Lucca after a visit to a winery in the town of Terricciola.  This is not a region that I’ve visited before, and it requires a car, so I was pleased to join this group adventure.

Peccioli, viewed from the modern terrace suspended over the edge of town.

The Era River runs between Volterra and Pontedera in the Province of Pisa.  At Pontedera the Era joins the river Arno as it flows towards the sea.  High above the river valley lies the small hilltop village of Peccioli, easily spotted from a distance by the tall bell tower of its church.  How fortunate that this little hill town was one of our destinations! 

Peccioli’s most recognizable landmark, the campanile of the church of San Verano, can be seen from a distance down in the valley.

 Peccioli, like so many of Tuscany’s hill towns, has a Medieval layout and a long history of territorial wars as Pisa and Florence battled for control of the town.  Built in the 11th century around a now ruined castle, Peccioli has an historic center with a central piazza, an ancient church, and a series of narrow streets and small alleys. 

 Like most hill towns, there are great views. In Peccioli the vistas are down to the valley from one side of town and out onto Tuscan hillsides and farmland from the other side.  But much as Peccioli has in common with other Tuscan hill towns, it also has its own unique character.

What gives Peccioli its special flavor is the series of contemporary art installations found throughout town. 

Artists from around the world have created works of art and architecture specifically designed for display in Peccioli.  The contrast between the ancient and the modern is intriguing and lots of fun.

Throughout town are old doors, ancient brick structures, and houses fronted by pretty flowerpots mixed in with the more contemporary art pieces.

 Along an old brick wall are hundreds of photos of eyes, an installation called the Squardo di Peccioli.  The artist, Vittorio Corsini, photographed the eyes of Peccioli’s residents for his work.

A sky bridge connects the historic center with an elevator down to the newer parts of town below in the valley.  Titled Endless Sunset, the work by Patrick Tuttofuoco spirals around the walkway with a ribbon of color.  It turns what might be an ordinary bridge into a work of art.

 A large terrace designed by architect Mario Cuninella juts out from the edge of town, giving long views to the farmland and hills surrounding the town – a classic Tuscan view.

Our time in Piccioli was brief, a short detour on the drive between Terricciola and Lucca.  There are many more art installations to explore, museums to visit, and an historic center with shops and cafes in which to linger.  I am looking forward to a return visit.

Exploring Argegno's Back Streets

Argegno’s waterfront. The green building is where the ferries dock.

Don’t you find that “firsts” leave lasting impressions?  First day of school, first love, first taste of olive oil fresh from the press, first home, first big purchase with your own money, first Christmas with a new baby, first bottle of really good wine.  All of these firsts are important milestones in life and treasured memories. 

One of my memorable firsts is the first time I traveled to Italy.  I arrived in 1996 to one of the most beautiful places on earth – Lake Como in northern Italy.   I had no idea that when I first went to the small lake-side town of Argegno that I was embarking on a life-long love affair with a town, a lake, a country, and a way of life. 

I don’t know whether it was the stunning views, the sound of water lapping at the shoreline, the feeling of the wind as I traveled by boat across the lake, the friendly people, or dinners with fish fresh from the lake. Somehow they added up to magic.   Since that first trip I have visited Argegno a number of times and found a little something new to enjoy each time I visit. 

In Argegno, most of the action takes place right along the lakefront.  That’s where the main piazza sits, ringed with cafes, bars, and restaurants. It’s also where to find the morning hotspot - the really good Pasticceria and Caffè (officially called Pasticceria Grandi).  Its old wooden display cabinets, pretty bar, and wonderful aromas, along with a view of the lake, make it the perfect place to begin a day in Argegno. Even the neighborhood cat stops by!

Santissima Trinit Church, Argegno

The lakefront is also where the ferries stop to pick up passengers, carrying them to some of the better known towns along the lake. The wonderful hotel Villa Belvedere sits right at the edge of the lake in Argegno.  So does the local church of Santissima Trinità (The Holy Trinity).  Even the Monday market is set up next to the small harbor that fronts the lake.  All of these things are definitely worth exploring.

 But it would be a shame to stick only to the lakefront because Argegno’s back streets are fascinating. The mostly pedestrian lanes lead to mysterious dark passageways and alleys meandering up into the hills above town.

A wander towards the river Telo, which runs from up in the surrounding hills right into the lake, leads to an ancient stone bridge. Often there is just a trickle of water in this part of the Telo, but after a good rain the river swells and water flows quickly under the bridge. Standing on the bridge gives views of the houses further up along the river as well as views down to where the river meets the lake.

Argegno’s small lanes are filled with worn old doors, pretty flower boxes, and homes built where old mills once stood. 

There is so much to appreciate in the streets where few visitors wander.  Those back streets and steep alleys also provide some spectacular views high over the lake and a quiet escape from the lively Piazza Roma on the lakefront. 

Most visitors spend just a few days at Lake Como, exploring the famous towns of Bellagio, Tremezzo, and Varenna. But a longer stay provides a chance to explore the hidden spots in the smaller villages such as Argegno. Argegno was my first Italian experience, an introduction to a very different life. It still enchants and inspires me.

September in Lucca

September is one of my favorite months in Italy.  It starts out as summer – hot and humid – and then slowly transforms itself into autumn. By late September the mornings and evenings are cool enough that sweaters and scarves make their first appearance of the season. The cooler weather is perfect for a passeggiata, the Italian tradition of an evening stroll, yet still pleasant enough for sitting outdoors at a cafe.  The AC (if one is lucky enough to have it) has been turned off and the windows are open, letting in cool breezes and the hint of fall that is in the air.

Late September skies are beautiful and the weather is pleasant.

 In Lucca, September is a unique month. It even has a special name -  Settembre Lucchese.  It is a month of festivals, artisan markets, concerts, and celebrations. 

This year September kicked off with Murabilia, the annual fall garden show.  Murabilia has everything for the fall garden, from plants to yard art to terracotta pots.  For inside the home there are delicate orchids, fall gourds, and pretty linens.  Artisans demonstrate and sell their crafts and food stands offer local products – meats, cheese, breads, garlic, and flavored syrups.  

September also brings the Palio della Santa Croce. The Palio is has its roots in medieval times as members of the three contrade (districts) in the historic center of Lucca engage in a crossbow competition. The event starts with a procession of musicians, flag throwers, costumes, and the very medieval looking archers.  The procession weaves its way through Lucca, stopping to perform in some of the piazzas, eventually making their way to the area behind the Cathedral of San Martino where this year’s competition took place.

September’s most important event, The Luminaria of Santa Croce, takes place every year on the evening of September 13th.   The luminaria is in honor of Lucca’s most important ancient artifact, the wooden crucifix known as the Volto Santo (Holy Face). 

The legend of the Volto Santo is this: it was crafted by Nicodemus who fell asleep before carving the face.  When he awoke, he found that the face had been miraculously completed. The legend continues with a journey across the sea to the coast of Italy and then a trip by oxcart to Lucca more than 1000 years ago.  Both journeys are considered miracles as, according to the legend, the ship and the oxcart where unmanned and divinely guided to Lucca. The crucifix became a stop on the pilgrim’s route to Rome. It remains a venerated religious object to this day, drawing modern day pilgrims to Lucca. 

The crucifix usually rests in a small chapel within the Cathedral of San Martino where the figure of Christ is dressed in a gold vestments during the festival. This year was a bit different as the crucifix is undergoing restoration.  It has been moved from its small chapel to an area inside the cathedral where it is possible to watch the restoration in progress.   

During the luminaria procession religious and civic groups move through the candlelit streets of Lucca.  The Volto Santo is represented by a cloth image held aloft. Each year there is a large cross made of flowers. Participants hold candles and prayers are chanted along the route. It is a beautiful and moving event with both religious and cultural meaning.

Settembre Lucchese came to a close this year with the Festival of San Michele (St. Michael the Archangel).  A special mass was held in the Basilica of San Michele, one of Lucca’s historic churches.  A concert, on the evening of September 23rd, filled the church with music by the Polifonica Lucchese and the Boccherini Orchestra. The fullness of the music, along with beautiful voices in the setting of a historic church, combined to create a very special evening.

 September is an ideal time to visit Lucca. It is not too early to begin planning for a September 2024 visit !

By the third week of September the temperatures are cool enough for a late morning walk along Lucca’s shady walls.

A Day in Bellagio

Bellagio is the most famous of the towns along the shores of Lake Como. It is considered a touristic “must see” and has more visitors than any of the other towns.  Blessed by an enviable location, Bellagio sits at the very spot where the lower lake splits into two branches, Lake Como continuing to the southwest and Lake Lecco to the southeast.  The dividing spot at the tip of the peninsula is named the Punta Spartivento, the point where the wind divides.  The views of the lake from this spot are hard to beat.

A Traghetto (car ferry) is one type of ferry that brings visitors to Bellagio.

With such a prime location, and with frequent boats ferrying visitors between Bellagio and the other mid-lake cities, Bellagio has a little something for everyone – stunning scenery, a flower filled waterfront promenade, beautiful hotels, wine tasting, fine dining, and some great shopping.

There is an upper part of town, along Via Garibaldi, and a lower part along the lake shore. The two are connected by a series of “streets” which are not streets at all but staircases.  Salita Serbelloni is the most famous of these staircases.  This wide series of steps, lined with shops, galleries and restaurants, leads from Via Garibaldi in the upper portion of Bellagio down to the waterfront.  The views are fabulous and the shops have beautiful things, but beware - the often crowded steps and lack of handrails are not ideal for anyone with balance or mobility issues.  Sure-footed people seem to bounce up and down the steps with ease, often stopping for photos of the lake view and selfies. 

Salita Serbelloni

For anyone wanting to avoid the stairs, it is possible to reach the upper portion of Bellagio by walking left when exiting the boat dock, past the pretty Hotel Villa Serbelloni, and up Via Roma where a sidewalk leads more gently up the hill to Via Garibaldi. I like to follow that path, explore the upper part of Bellagio, and then take one of the less crowded staircases at the far end of Via Garibaldi down to the lake front. 

San Giacomo Church

Near the north end of Via Garibaldi is Piazza della Chiesa, home to the church of San Giacomo.  The stone church, built in the 11th century, is plain on the outside but the inside shines with gold adornments – mosaics, an ornate golden altar, and a shimmering apse.  When the bells ring the entire piazza is filled with their beautiful sound. 

Piazza della Chiesa has a central fountain, an ancient tower, and a ring of shops, art galleries, and cafes.  It’s a great spot to stop for a coffee or to begin some serious Bellagio shopping. My first shopping stop was in the L’Angelo delle Idea, filled with hand made glass pieces and glass Christmas ornaments (always a good souvenir). 

Continue down the narrow street to find a variety of shops.  If in need of provisions for the kitchen, they can be found at the fruttivendolo (green grocer), the Macellaria e Salumeria (butcher and deli shop), or the shop selling fresh pastas.  You’ll also find shops with beautiful silks, good quality handbags, shoes, and jewelry. 

My favorite shop, and one of the best for good quality souvenirs, is the Bottega di Legno della Famiglia Tacchi, situated near the top of the Salita Serbelloni.  The Tacchi family have been woodworkers since 1855.  The shop is is one of the oldest in Bellagio.  Here you’ll find beautiful wood housewares (don’t miss the rolling pins!), wooden toys, Christmas ornaments and beautifully carved nativities along with an assortment of other wooden products.  Peak into the back room with its workbench and old tools and you can imagine a long ago craftsmen at work. 

 After exploring Via Garibaldi, a walk down any one of the Salitas leads down to the waterfront.  Salita Genazzini (a few minutes walk past Salita Serbelloni) is a good choice.  Not only is it narrower and less crowded, but it leads to my favorite spot for a light lunch or a wine tasting, Enoteca Cava Turacciolo..  Inside, the low stone ceilings, wooden tables and rows upon rows of wine bottles provide a moody, cozy atmosphere.  In warm weather, small tables sit outside and run up the steps of the salita.  The generous platters of meats and cheeses, along with bread and buttery green olives, paired with a choice from over 300 wines, is a perfect Bellagio lunch and a great break before exploring the waterfront areas.

From the base of Salita Genazzi, a left turn leads to Bellagio’s pretty lakeside promenade lined with trees, flowers, and wonderful views.  Stop for a minute at the memorial commemorating a visit by President Kennedy in June of 1963. Further on are the gardens of Villa Melzi.  

A right turns leads back toward the ferry stops.  Bellagio has two – one for the traghetti (car ferries) and one for the passenger ferries.  Along the way are more shops and a covered passageway (a nice break from the summer sun) with upscale shops, mostly aimed at tourists, and restaurants.

Bellagio’s ferry docks get crowded in high season - best to arrive well before departure time.

Many tourists make a quick stop in Bellagio and then hurry on to the next village on a hop-on, hop-off boat tour of the lake.  I prefer to spend a full day in Bellagio with plenty of time to wander, enjoy the scenery, stop for a coffee or a gelato (maybe both), visit the church, have a leisurely lunch, do some shopping, and take a late ferry back to my home base in Argegno. No matter which plan suits your travel style, Bellagio is definitely a lake town worth visiting.

Serendipity at Lake Como

Argegno’s Pasticceria - a perfect place to start the morning.

Having two weeks to spend exploring the villages along the shores of Lake Como was a luxury.  With that much time there was no need to plan every day in advance.  No reason to start out early every morning.  No hectic days racing from one sight to another. 

 Instead, we (I traveled with a good friend) were able to pace ourselves.  We often decided in the morning, over a cappuccino and pastry at Argegno’s Pasticceria, what we wanted to do that day.  We did have a few specific things we planned to do, but we mostly let the weather and our feelings about the day dictate our schedule.  Spontaneity works well when time is not a big factor in a trip.

 A long visit also allowed us to be open to serendipity – those happy accidents that can be the best part of travel.  Taking advantage of serendipity requires flexibility and a belief that sometimes the travel gods lead you to exactly where you didn’t know you wanted to go.  Or to an experience you didn’t plan but that turns out to be a highlight of a trip.

 On this visit to Lake Como, serendipity led to two wonderful experiences.   The first came about when the ferry boat we planned to take to the small village of Nesso was unexplainably cancelled.  The cancelled boat required a last minute change of plans.  Serendipity, and the boat schedule, led us to Lezzeno, a different small town of the lake and one I’d never visited.

Lezzeno, a quiet village with views of Lake Como and the hills beyond

 Lezzeno lies across the western “leg” of the lake, on the same shore as Bellagio.  Unlike Bellagio, Lezzeno is uncrowded and laid back.  I had no idea what to expect, but when our boat to Nesso was cancelled we simply said “let’s go and have lunch in Lezzano instead” without any prior research or planning.   Serendipity at work.

Just off the ferry landing is a small church with a pretty bell tower, a pharmacy, and not much else.  Walking along a winding road we reached a closed restaurant and a minimart and didn’t see much more town ahead of us on the road.  We were tempted to turn around and head back to the dock for the next boat to somewhere but we had a feeling that there must be more to Lezzeno.  A stop at the mini mart assured us that if we kept on we’d find beautiful views, a hotel, and a nice restaurant. 

Lezzeno

So, on we walked and sure enough, stunning views of the lake came into view along with old stone bridges and walls, colorful houses, and pots of flowers.

A little further on we came across the Hotel Villa Aurora.  The hotel has as a vintage vibe, a front porch facing the lake, and a bar with casual dining and an outdoor patio.  The hotel provides a perfect spot to relax, sip some wine on the porch, and enjoy some quiet time on the lake. 

Across the street, the hotel has a restaurant with big windows looking out over the lake. The panoramic view takes in the western shore with the promontory where Villa Balbionello sits, the surrounding hills, and comings and goings of all types of small boats. Outside the restaurant are steps down to an appealing beach club.  It looked very family friendly, with a large floating inflatable platform for sliding or jumping into the lake. My grandkids would love it there!

Luckily, we were able to get a table at the restaurant without a reservation.  

I ordered polpette di pesce. The literal translation is “fish balls” but that sounds, well, odd.  I would call them fish cakes – but they were nothing like the Mrs. Paul’s frozen fish cakes I remember from my youth.  These were light and fresh tasting and served with a delicate lemon sauce.  Perfect with a glass of white wine (after all, for lunch when on vacation in Italy, wine is permissible if not required).  This was dining with a view and we definitely lingered over our meal before heading for the next boat back to our base in Argegno.

 Serendipity struck a second time when we arrived to Tremezzo to the beginning of a very heavy rain. Much too stormy for a visit to Villa Carlotta, we needed a plan B as the rain threatened to last for a long while.  The options: take the next boat back to Argegno and our Airbnb or make a mad dash through the rain and duck into the first nice restaurant we found.  We opted for opening our umbrellas and braving the downpour.  Just down the street we spotted the No26 restaurant, part of the Hotel Bazzoni.  It looked elegant, upscale, and dry.  We decided to splurge and have a long lunch. 

Storm clouds over Tremezzo

Good decision.  The food at No26 was exquisite.  The restaurant was not crowded on that rainy day and the waiters were friendly, interested in why we lived in Italy, and willing to chat with us in Italian.  That made lunch even more fun. 

A further description of the food is warranted (but prepare to get hungry!).  The meal started with a little surprise from the chef - a small scoop of ricotta topped with an herb infused apricot jam. 3 luscious bites. We were off to a great start!

My first course was a soup course listed as a vellutata di ceci, capasante, cipolla rossa acidula e jus di coda di manzo, a long name that translates to a velvety soup of pureed chickpeas, scallops, pickled red onions, and beef tail juice.  That combination of flavors was nothing short of amazing.  The soup was thick and flavorful with one perfectly seared scallop in the center, topped with the onions, and ringed along the bowl with a beef reduction.  Topped with some little greens it made a gorgeous presentation. 

This lemon ricotta filled pasta was a delight.

 Since we wanted this to be a long lunch in hopes that the rain might stop giving us a chance to walk around Tremezzo, a second course was in order.   We both ordered the Lingotto ripieno di ricotta e limone alle tre salse e polvere di cipolla bruciata.  Menu Italian is so flowery and descriptive!  Translation – Lingotto (a ravioli like pasta) filled with ricotta and lemon with three sauces and toasted onion powder. Lemon is one of my favorite flavors and this ricotta was bursting with lemon peel and lemon juice. Topped with colorful ribbons of the different sauces with just a sprinkle of the onion powder, it was another stunning presentation. It tasted just as good as it looked. 

Dessert (remember, we were riding out a rainstorm for a couple of hours here!) was a tiramisu with cocoa crumbles. 

The tiramisu was rich – we were glad we were sharing it. Add in a caffè macchiato and it was the perfect ending to a special meal.

 A break in the storm gave us just enough time for a quick walk through Tremezzo’s lake front before the rain started again and sent us hurrying back to the boat dock for the trip back “home” to Argegno.

 Neither of these two experiences were planned.  Both took the place of other things we wanted to do but we gladly went along with the happy accidents the universe sent us.  And serendipity seemed intent of feeding us well!