Outdoor Sculpture in Florence

The city of Florence is a gift, one I can receive time after time and find just as thrilling as I did on my first visit more than 20 years ago. There is so much to see - cathedrals, small churches, bridges, museums, architecture, hills, and beautiful Tuscan skies. Usually all of these things are enjoyed while simultaneously dealing with (and grumbling about) large groups of tourists. However, this past year has been a bit different (in so many ways) and with fewer people about, there is little competition for close-up views of Florence’s wonderful art and architecture. Even better if, like me, sculpture is one of your favorite art forms. On my last visit I was happy to just wander, never even entering a museum. Instead, I spent my time immersed in the beauty of the many outdoor sculptures and statues in Florence.
It’s impossible to see all of Florence’s sculptural wonders in one visit, but described below is a walk that I love which includes some of my Florentine favorites. And although right now travel is impossible for many of us - I can’t even go to Florence from my home an hour away in Lucca due to our most recent COVID restrictions - I hope this walk is a path we might all enjoy on a future trip to this special city.

The walk begins north of the Duomo in Piazza SS Annunziata (named for the church at the north end). When in Florence I always try to make time for this church. While the rest of my walk across Florence is outdoors, inside this church is one of the loveliest tomb monuments I’ve ever seen. How graceful, and sad, is this woman who keeps eternal watch over the tomb of a loved one? A stop here is a great way to begin a sculpture walk.

A tomb monument inside the church of SS Annunziata, Florence

In the piazza in front of the church are two fountains featuring sculptures of mythical creatures (by the artist Pietro Tacca) as well as a massive bronze statue of Ferdinand I on horseback (by Giambologna). If you look closely, you’ll also see a series of round della Robbia pieces above the arches of the Ospedale degli Innocenti (you can see one above and to the right of the fountain in the photo below).

Next stop - the Duomo, where the sculptures include both large statues and countless small, detailed sculptures adorning the facade and doorways.

On my last visit I did not approach them with an eye toward the historical significance of each piece - who is that saint? that pope? that angel? (for that it is better to visit the Duomo museum) but rather just with an appreciation for the craftsmanship and beauty of the work.

The intricacy of the carvings, the stunning colors, the gracefulness of the faces, they way they are placed on the colorful facade - what a display of artistry.

A much smaller, but equally beautiful sculpture. Many of these small marble figures surround the doorways and windows of the cathedral.

After spending time at the Duomo, the walk continues to the Piazza della Signoria and the Loggia dei Lanzi, full of famous statues including a scaled-down reproduction of Michelangelo’s David and the fascinating but brutal Rape of the Sabines by Giambologna.

Walking further towards the river Arno, at the far end of the piazza, is the Fountain of Neptune. Statues are wonderful, but a statue that is also part of a large fountain is fantastic (especially is you happen to visit on a warm day).

The Fountain of Neptune, Florence

Wandering past the Palazzo Vecchio and along the Uffizi courtyard are a series of statues of famous artists, scientists, and literary giants. From left to right below: Cellini, DaVinci, and Donatello.

Walking across the Ponte Vecchio, there is a bust of Cellini. He was a master goldsmith, as well as an artist and writer. He may have been a bit of a troublemaker, but he’s a home town boy and it is fitting to honor him on the bridge where today so much of the Florentine gold is sold.

The inscription reads: Benvenuto Cellini Maestro Gli Orafi di Firenze

Across the Ponte Vecchio, the walk comes to an end. For me, the perfect ending to a wander through Florence’s outdoor sculptures is a lunch “oltrarno” at the restaurant 4 Leone. After all, fabulous food is another Italian art form!

Two Very Different Lunches in Florence

Florence is an intriguing city, full of wonderful things to see, hear, touch, experience, and taste. It is also a city bursting at the seams with tourists, which means it is chaotic, crowded, and sometimes frustrating. And yet, it’s a city I love and never tire of visiting. It’s also a city where it’s possible to find great food – just visit a neighborhood market with its array of fresh produce, meats, cheeses, breads, and pastas and you’ll see ingredients that make your mouth water.

With fresh ingredients like these (from the Sant’Ambrogio Market) it’s no wonder that Florence is a great city for dining.

This ribollita looked good but was way too salty

The good food continues in the many fine restaurants. But, as is often the case in places popular with tourists, there are some restaurants that don’t live up to Tuscany’s reputation for good food.

In Florence, these are often the larger restaurants found in areas most frequented by visitors. I recently ate in one of these when I found myself tired, hungry for lunch, and in need of a quick escape from some wet and windy weather.  I ducked into a place that I should have known to avoid – wait staff out front pulling in customers, located on a busy, touristy piazza, full of people speaking languages other than Italian.  What was I thinking? I ordered a classic Tuscan soup - ribollita.  It’s hard to mess up this vegetable soup thickened with chunks of bread. Hard, but not impossible as it turns out. The veggies and the consistency were right but this dish was over salted. I needed lots of water to balance out the saltiness. An eggplant dish was no better – heavy on cheese and overcooked. I had only bottled water to drink, no coffee or dessert. The tab was a hefty €32.50. Ouch! This was an expensive and poorly prepared lunch.

Coquinarius is an enoteca with wonderful ambiance, delicious food, and a great wine list.

I simply could not let my trip to Florence end with a memory of bad food, so the next day I had lunch at one of my favorite spots - Coquinarius, an enoteca just a bit off Piazza del Duomo on Via delle Oche. I had eaten here on a previous trip and enjoyed it immensely. Would it be as good as I remembered? The answer was a definite yes!

At Coquinarius I dined sumptuously in a lively and congenial atmosphere. This meal included a glass of wine (a tasty Vernaccia from San Gimignano), bottled water, an appetizer of crostini (toasted bread) with stracchino (a soft cow milk cheese) and salsiccia (sausage) all melty and crisp, a to-die-for pasta filled with pecorino and pear, an apple tart for dessert and a macchiato.

Crostino with stracchino and salsiccia

Little pasta bundles filled with pecorino cheese and pear

Delicious food and a great value too (just 2 euro more than my not-so-good lunch the day before). Not to mention the friendly service, mix of locals and visitors, great music, Italian chatter in the background, and a vibe that made me want to linger - which explains why I stayed for dessert and then a coffee, stretching my lunch to nearly two hours.

Apple “pie” the Italian way

 When heading to Florence the advice is clear - skip the big generic restaurants around the main tourist squares and head for those unique small places. I suggest starting with Coquinarius.  With its wide range of appetizers, salads, pasta dishes, meat and fish main courses, and delicious desserts, you won’t be disappointed. I can’t wait to go back. -post by JMB