Hell According to Giotto

Hell, According to Giotto

 Hell.  The Merriam-Webster dictionary describes it as “a place or state of misery, torment, or wickedness’.    

Many religions have the concept of judgement after death and a banishment (either permanent or temporary) to a horrible place of punishments for one’s sins and misdeeds.   For the most part hell is seen as a place not of this earth, and most definitely not a pleasant destination. Just as medieval churches told uplifting bible stories in fresco form, so too did they put the fear of hell into vivid paintings.  

 There is nothing like horned demons and gruesome animals nibbling on flesh to make one fear the eternal damnation that awaits the sinful, greedy, or otherwise misbehaving person.  These depictions of hell in medieval Italian art can be particularly terrifying, which is exactly what the artist intended.   As an adult I appreciate their artistic value and find them to be a fascinating glimpse into medieval culture; as a child they would have given me nightmares. 

Heaven to the left, Hell to the right.

These scenes of hell can be found in many churches.  Some of the most intense ones were painted by the artist Giotto for the Scrovegni Chapel in Padova (Padua).   

On previous visits to the chapel, I focused on the familiar stories of my Catholic youth.  They are gloriously painted by Giotto. 

 But, on a recent visit I was instead captivated by the large panel at the far end of the chapel that depicts heavenly reward to the left and the horrors of hell to the right. 

 In hell, there is a horned Satan at the center (top photo) surrounded a multitude of smaller agents of torture  - winged devils, serpents, hairy beasts. 

Hell has rivers of fire, darkness, and innumerable means of torture. 

No wonder so many felt the need to repent and atone for their sins before facing judgment!

The Scrovegni Chapel is a must see when visiting Padova (reservations required).   Giotto’s work is a masterpiece, even if it does include some of the scariest depictions of hell that I’ve ever seen!

Springtime In the Botanic Garden of Padova

The Orto Botanico (Botanic Garden) of Padova (Padua in English) dates back to the year 1545.  It was created on land owned by Benedictine monks, with the blessing of the Venetian Republic. The purpose for its creation was the study of medicinal herbs  - a pretty important study in times of plague and pestilence, long before the advent of antibiotics and vaccines.  The early botanists sought to identify those plants which promoted health and cured disease (as well as the dangerous ones that could harm). 

 The Orto Botanico continues to be a place of study, international collaboration, and research.  In 1997 it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its contribution to, in the words of UNESCO  “the sciences of botany, medicine, chemistry and pharmacy”.

In addition to being an important scientific site, it is also a place of great beauty.  The enclosed garden, overlooked by the domes of churches on both sides, sits just beyond the Basilica of St. Anthony.  Glimpses of church domes through the garden’s trees add to the enchantment of the setting.

The surrounding brick walls, topped with stone balustrades, enclose meandering paths edged with wild flowers, gated formal gardens, a small stream, a variety of trees, and several pretty fountains. 

Small buildings showcase carnivorous plants and one very ancient tree.  A much larger greenhouse is the center for the study of biodiversity (currently closed to visitors). 

 On the day I visited (in early April) the garden was blooming with spring flowers.  Wisteria, both purple and white varieties, clung to the brick walls.  The Irises were just beginning to bloom and the scent of lilacs was in the air. 

 The Orto Botanico is an oasis of color and fragrance in the middle of Padova. What a great way to spend a spring afternoon!

And Then Came Giotto

I am not an art historian; far from it.  I don’t even claim to be a serious student of art.  And yet, it is impossible to live in Italy and not develop a profound appreciation for art. There are museums full of ancient art – Etruscan and Roman – displaying artifacts from those eras, from tiny jewelry pieces to funeral urns, mosaics, and classic statuary.  And though there were also Roman painters, the examples that have survived are relatively few.  In contrast, paintings from the late Medieval (Middle Age) and Renaissance periods fill Italian churches and museums.  The differences between the two eras can be appreciated by even an untrained observer like myself.

Madonna and Child ca. 1300 artist: Duccio. (photo from Wikimedia Commons Public Domain). An example of painting from the Medieval era.

Prior to the Renaissance, Medieval paintings were characterized by religious subjects, often a single figure filling the center of a painting.  The figures were flat and the faces often expressionless.  The human form was not natural looking or sensuous.  These were icons, not neighbors.

Backgrounds and perspective were not very important components of medieval painting.  And all that gold!  Gold shows up everywhere in Italian art of the middle ages.  In backgrounds, in halos, in elaborate detailing.  Imagine how that gold appeared – as the richness of God, the divine light – and also, perhaps, an symbol of the wealth of the patron or church who commissioned the work.

In contrast, paintings from the Renaissance era (1400 – 1600 AD) make wonderful use of perspective and often place subjects in natural settings.  The figures are realistic, their human-ness evident.  The clothing drapes and swirls, the faces show a full range of emotions.  The subjects are still largely religious, though portraits were also painted, usually for wealthy patrons (think of Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, painted in 1503).  The names of Renaissance artists are familiar: Donatello, Da Vinci, Michelangelo, and Raphael being perhaps the most widely known artists from the 1400’s.

An unfinished Da Vinci portrait painted between 1500 - 1505. La Scapigliata (the word scapigliata refers to her disheveled hair) hangs in the National Museum in Parma, Italy. The difference between this Renaissance painting and earlier Medieval ones is pretty clear!

And in between the two periods, the Medieval and the Renaissance, came Giotto di Bondone (1267-1337). Giotto was that rare artist who was appreciated, even famous, during his lifetime. He even merited a mention by his contemporary Dante in The Divine Comedy. 

 Giotto revolutionized Italian art, creating life-like figures and placing them in more natural settings. Giotto’s figures show a full range of emotions through their facial expressions. No flat, lifeless saints and madonnas here!   Giotto’s scenes are populated by people who look like the neighbors down the street (at least what the neighbors would have looked like in 1300).  His men are placed in realistic poses and settings, his ladies have (gasp!) breasts over which their garments drape. His angels fly, his flames flicker.  And while the saints still have halos of gold, their clothing is colorful and the background is the most heavenly blue. 

Panel # 34. Weeping over the Body of Christ. Scovegni Chapel.

Sadly, much of Giotto’s work has been destroyed, by time and by fire.  Of the works that remain, the Scrovegni Chapel in Padova is Giotto’s capolavoro (masterpiece). A chance to see the frescoes there was the main reason for my trip to Padova last fall. The church is small and intimate, built as a private chapel for the Scrovegni Family.  The frescoes are in wonderful condition, the figures beautiful, and the colors spectacular.

Panel #35. The Resurrection

The frescoes wrap around the chapel, in a three-tiered series of panels, telling stories from the life of Joachim and Anne, Mary, and Christ. The scenes are full of life, there is movement and emotion, the figures pull you in to their story. Through it all Giotto proves to be not just an accomplished artist but a master storyteller as well.

Panels #8 (Presentation of the Virgin), 21 (Baptism of Jesus), and 33 Crucifixion (top to bottom)

The far end of the chapel has the largest scene - the Last Judgement. It is stunning in both its beauty and its brutality. 

To the left, heaven. To the right, a hell that is terrifying!

 Look closely and you will find Enrico Scrovegni, offering up the chapel in atonement for the sin of usary (the Scrovegni family were money lenders). This is no doubt an attempt to avoid Giotto’s graphic depiction of hell.

 Aside from bible tales, the allegories of Virtues and Vices are fascinating. Simplistic in design and color compared with the rest of the frescoes, without much adornment, the contrasting figures are as relevant and thought-provoking today as when painted in the early 1300’s.  Pictured below (left to right): Hope, Envy, Justice, Despair.

The Scrovegni chapel is simply astonishing (my photos can’t capture its majesty).  One does not have to be an art historian, a religious scholar, or even a believer, to appreciate Giotto’s artistic brilliance and the power of these frescoes.  And for anyone with an interest in art, or simply in beauty, the Scrovegni Chapel in Padova is an experience not to be missed.

Detail from panel #33. The Crucifixion

 Even the smallest decorations - such as these quatrefoils - have incredible detail and depth. I could spend hours here looking at everything from the largest scene to the smallest detail. I think I’ll need to go back to Padova before too long.

Note: The Scrovegni Chapel is open to the public with advanced reservation tickets only. Before entering the chapel itself there is a short video (with subtitles in English) which gives a good history of the chapel. Admission is limited to about 25 people at a time with a time limit in the chapel of 15 minutes per group. A short time, but well worth it and sufficient to see this small space (especially after some pre-visit reading).

A Venetian Style Restaurant in Padova

The bar area of Bacaro Frascoli, Padova

Part of the fun when visiting a new part of the world is experiencing the culture through its food. In Italy, each region has some common elements - freshness, local origin, and bright flavors - but each region also has its own special version of Italian cuisine. Think of Bologna with its filled pastas, Ligurian pesto, Tordelli Lucchese, Pici in Siena, Amatriciana from, well, Amatrice, Peposo from Impruneta. Learning about these dishes gives insight into local history and culture.

With so much of Italy surrounded by the sea, it is no surprise that coastal areas serve amazing seafood. In Venice, that seafood often shows up in cicchetti, an Italian “nibble” similar to tapas. These small plates are served in bars, bacari in Venetian dialect, especially as part of an aperitivo where they pair perfectly with a glass of wine, a Prosecco, or a Spritz.

The tradition of bacari and cicchetti fortunately extends inland to the town of Padova where I was delighted to discover the Bacaro Frascoli, a combination bar and restaurant serving Venetian style cicchetti and wonderful seafood dinners. The atmosphere is lively, with just the right murmur of voices. The staff is friendly and welcoming - come back a second time and they will greet you like regulars!

Today’s specials at Bacaro Frascoli

My first visit to Bacaro Frascoli was for dinner. The menu was enticing, as were the specials written on a large chalkboard. A separate chalkboard near the bar listed wines. The atmosphere was casual, but the food was elegant.

Dinner began with a glass of Prosecco, followed by an appetizer (shared with my travel companion) of gorgeous scallops in a fragrant herb scented broth, served glamorously on the shell and with slices of bread to soak up the tasty broth. You can bet that not a drop of that heavenly broth went to waste.

Next came a bowl of Spaghetti alle Vongole (Spaghetti with Clams). This is a simple dish, an Italian classic, and one of my favorites. I am just a bit fussy about how it is prepared and served. A good Spaghetti alle Vongole makes the most of simple ingredients - small clams, a touch of garlic, good extra virgin olive oil, a sprinkle of parsley, black pepper, and a bit of salt. The starchy broth from the cooked pasta adds a silkiness to the sauce.

No fancy additions please, and leave those clams in the shell! The dish served at Bacaro Frascoli checked all the boxes; it was outstanding. Fragrant, delicate, yet tasting of the sea.

Although the grilled fish specials sounded wonderful, I passed on another course. Ah, but how bad could dessert be if my friend and I shared it? The simple plate of biscotti (cookies) was served with a dish of cocoa dusted sweet custard for dipping. A perfect ending to a wonderful meal.

The dinner was so good that we decided to return the following night, this time to try the cicchetti.

The bar section of Bacaro Frascoli is up front and has a long communal table along with several individual tables. The counter displays a variety of cicchetti, small dishes to mix and match as either an aperitivo or, in this case, a simple, light dinner. Just mix and match what looks good, going back for more if you like.

There were several different types of bruschetta including a wonderful whipped baccala and one with gorgonzola topped with melanzane (eggplant). In addition to bruschetta there were a number of other dishes including octopus, polpette (meat balls), and variety of fried offerings. We choose some fried anchovies, tuna polpette, and an anchovy and cheese wedge. All were delicious and in combination with a glass of Prosecco made for the perfect light dinner. The spirited, casual atmosphere contributed to the fun.

It is rare for me to go to the same restaurant twice on a short trip. Usually I choose to sample a variety of places. But in the case of the Bacaro Frascoli in Padova I was happy to make a return visit. The two experiences were quite different - one a full meal and one a selection of cicchetti - but both were wonderful. I will definitely include this spot on my next visit to Padova. I hope you will too!

Bacaro Frascoli Via del Santo 93 Padova

email: info@frascoli. it

phone: +39 049 660 505

closed Mondays; lunch only on Sundays

A Morning in Padova's Market

When I first visited Italy, nearly 30 years ago, I hoped to attend a cooking class.  I had been studying Italian cookbooks (especially those by Marcella Hazan) and wanted more than anything to cook in Italy, using local ingredients, with a teacher who could show me how to make authentic Italian dishes.  Unfortunately, the cost of the week-long classes just did not fit my budget.  Instead, I came to Italy determined to taste regional dishes, shop local markets, and take lots of notes.  Or, as someone said to me, “So, you’re going to Italy to eat?”  Well, yes.  That pretty much summed up my intention.

My first bite of prosciutto with melon was a revelation!

 I learned so much on that trip, in large part through food experiences.  Restaurant dining introduced me to many dishes – sweet melon wrapped in salty proscuitto, a delicate risotto with saffron, fish straight from the lake, tiny wild blueberries atop gelato, pasta fatto a mano (homemade). The flavors and preparation methods were enlightening.  As good as the restaurant meals were, it was the Italian markets which really enchanted me.  Fresh produce artfully displayed, pan-ready trimmed artichokes floating in lemon water, perfectly ripe melons.  I marveled at the fishmongers in Venice who arranged their products in photo-worthy displays and at the shops in Florence filled with hanging legs of prosciutto, a vast array of cheeses, and cases of colorful filled pastas.  How I longed for a kitchen on that trip!

Fresh pasta at the Sant’Ambrogio market in Florence

 Since that time I have sought out markets whenever, and wherever, I’ve traveled.  They form some of my most vivid travel memories.  The best ones are the “mamma’s markets”, catering to locals rather than tourists.  Two of my favorites over years of travel are the weekly market in Uzes France (oh those olives!) and the Sant’Ambrogio market in Florence.   

Italy is not the only country with fabulous markets. This one in Uzes, France is among my favorites.

 My most recent market experience was in Padova (Padua) where I was delighted to find a fabulous daily market.  The outdoor market, centrally located in Piazze delle Erbe and Piazza della Frutta, was a wonderland of fresh fruits and vegetables.  Multiple vendors set up stalls each morning filled with just about everything a cook could desire -  baskets of bright lettuces, mounds of greenish-purple artichokes, piles of vibrant oranges, rows of tomatoes in different shapes and sizes, fat stalks of asparagus, dark purple eggplants, dried beans, herbs, and even flowers.  

Spending a morning there was a joy.  In the afternoon the market stalls disappeared and the piazza became a social hub of cafes, bars and casual restaurants. 

Beautiful blossoms in the Padova market

 In addition to the outdoor market stalls, an adjoining indoor market lies beneath the Palazzo della Ragione.  The culinary fun continued here with a host of shops selling fish, meats, prosciutto, bread, pastries, cheeses, and a variety of prepared foods.  There was even a rare sight in Italy – a “to go” coffee bar.   

There is so much to appreciate in Padova – stunning frescoes, historic churches, architecture, historical buildings, parks (I will get to all of these in another post) but never underestimate the power of a good market to add a fun experience when exploring a new city.