A magnolia tree just about ready to burst into bloom along Corso Garibaldi in Lucca, early March 2019

No Translation Needed

March 25, 2019 by Joanne Bartram in Tuscany, #italytravel, Lucca, Italy travel, Italy

Now that I’m living in Italy, I feel some pressure to improve my Italian language skills. I try to do all of my “business” (shopping, setting up a phone contract, arranging shipping, etc.) in Italian and, thanks to some very, very patient locals, I am mostly successful. I am also taking a weekly semi-private lesson (with my friend Claire) at the wonderful Lucca Italian School (also known as LIS). I have a fabulous teacher in Antonella, who patiently explains (as many times as I need) the use of the passato prossimo versus the imperfetto past tenses, prepositions (oh - the horror of Italian prepositions), and - heaven help me - the use of the congiuntivo. Grazie Antonella and LIS!

Two recent attempts at translation brought unexpected results. First, I went into a home goods store to buy a muffin pan. I couldn’t for the life of me figure out the word for muffin pan and I had forgotten to look it up before leaving home. I found the pan high on a shelf and asked the man working there to please reach it for me. As he handed it to me, I asked, “Come si chiama questo tipo di teglia in Italiano” (what do you call this type of baking pan in Italian)? With a quite serious look on his face he answered me -”si chiama teglia di “muffin.” Muffin, no translation needed. We both got a good laugh over that one!

Walking through town I noticed beautiful magnolia trees just beginning to bloom along Corso Garibaldi. Pulling out my dictionary, I looked for a translation for magnolia tree. I know that a hydrangea is an ortensia and a wisteria is a glicine, so surely there should be an Italian word for a magnolia, right? It turns out that in Italy, a magnolia is, well, a magnolia (named for a French botanist). And, although I associate them with the American South, magnolias are actually common in Italy, often growing into huge trees. In March, they light up Lucca with their beautiful white and pink blossoms.

So - no translation needed - we hope you enjoy these photos of the beautiful magnolias of Lucca. \

-post by JMB

Signs of Spring in Lucca

April 30, 2018 by Joanne Bartram in Italian gardens, Italy travel, Tuscany, Italy, Lucca

Tiny yellow buttercups grow along the wall in Lucca, beautiful against a view of distant hills.

I’ve been waiting, not very patiently, for spring to arrive in Lucca.

Winter and early spring were unusually cold and rainy this year and the little hints of spring that showed up in early April were fleeting - the tease of just one warm day followed by several days of clouds, rain, and cool temperatures. The trees along the wall remained stubbornly bare, lemon trees remained in the limonaia, and vines were stark without even a hint of new growth.

I began to doubt that the sun would ever come to stay, that trees would sprout leaves, or that flowers would bloom. Flora (the Italian goddess of flowers and spring) seemed to have deserted me.

Today, I can happily say that the wait is over. Temperatures have soared during the past few days, changing from hat and glove weather to short sleeve and sandals weather in a flash. As I write this in late April, temperatures have hit the low 80s, not one day of rain is in the forecast all week, and i fiori (the flowers) have arrived. Sono contenta! (I'm happy!)

The trees along le mura (the city walls) are now green with leaves, tiny yellow buttercups bloom along the walls, and the sycamores in Piazza Grande (also called Piazza Napoleone) provide a beautiful green canopy around the square and the now-busy carousel.

This week I visited my favorite garden (on the grounds of Palazzo Pfanner) and found that the lemon and orange trees had been moved out from their winter home in the limonaia and were full of fruit. Showy peonies were blooming as was a magnolia tree and several bushes. Can roses and hydrangeas be far behind? How I hope they bloom before I head home to the U.S. in a few weeks.

The most dramatic and lovely proof that spring has truly arrived comes in the form of the glicine (wisteria) that have bloomed throughout Lucca. They spill over walls and terraces and across arbors with their soft colors and long flower heads. For me, it isn’t spring until the wisteria bloom.

I noticed the first wisteria blossoms along the wall that encircles the historic city. I then spent an afternoon wandering through town to the spots where I remembered the most stunning displays of wisteria from past years. While a few had not yet bloomed, several of my favorites, in Piazza Parigi and Piazza Antelminelli (pictured below), were just as beautiful as I recalled.

Italy in spring, Italy in flower - Bellissima! -post by JMB

Il Giardino (The Garden)

October 23, 2017 by Joanne Bartram

I love gardens. Some of my strongest travel memories include gardens that evoke specific times and places. I remember vividly a small herb garden in Uzes, France, a coastal garden in Maine, the unique Japanese Garden in Portland, Oregon, and the incomparable gardens of Villa Balbianello at Lake Como in northern Italy.

Palazzo Pfanner and its garden, in summer.

But my absolute favorite garden memories come from Lucca and the gardens of Palazzo Pfanner.

The palazzo, which dates from the mid-1600s, has a large entry courtyard and a remarkable staircase, beyond which lie the gardens.

It amazes me to know that members of the Pfanner family, who have owned the property since the mid 1800s, still have apartments in the palazzo. Imagine living within such beauty! Imagine too that at one time (around 1900) the family ran a brewery and beer garden here.

This crumbling building, beyond an iron fence, was used as part of storage for the brewery.

I've been fortunate to experience the garden in the three seasons it is open - spring, summer and fall (it's closed to visitors in winter). Each season has its own flavor as plants bud, bloom, set fruit, mature, and fade.

A lemon tree in late spring, Palazzo Pfanner.

In spring, the lemon trees blossom in their terracotta pots and are full of mature fruit. Irises poke up around the fountain, the giant magnolia tree blooms, and the smallest of buds appear on rows of hydrangea (called hortensia in Italian).

In summer, roses and peonies dazzle and pots of geraniums flower. The summer hydrangeas are spectacular with huge flower heads in pinks, blues, and purples.

Summer roses bloom in front of the limonaia.

In fall, the hydrangeas begin to fade but are still beautiful, even into late September/early October. The lemon trees in fall are full of small, green fruit. The vines begin to change color and there are still some roses in bloom.

The fall weather is ideal for sitting in the garden, a perfect season for reading or daydreaming in this peaceful place.

The limonaia in fall usually stands empty, waiting for the arrival of the potted lemon trees to winter over. This fall there was an art exhibit in the limonaia, which gave me the chance to walk through the low brick and stone building with its graceful arched, green windows.

A window into the limonaia during a recent art exhibit.

Some things in the garden remain constant - the green of the boxwood and laurel hedges, the tall bamboo mini-forest, the vine covered walls of old brick, and the statues representing the four seasons and Olympic gods.

Statue of Spring (Primavera), garden of Palazzo Pfanner. — Statue of Spring (*Primavera*), garden of Palazzo Pfanner.

Most constant of all is the fountain, with its large octagonal basin, dramatic statuary, and seasonal flowers. This is the centerpiece of the garden; its sound infuses the space with a sense of calm and timelessness.

For garden lovers this is a "can't miss" experience in Lucca. The palazzo and garden can be seen from le mura (the walls) but are best experienced by entering the garden itself (tickets are 4.50 euro for the garden, 6 euro for the garden and palazzo). Quando sono nel giardino di Palazzo Pfanner, sono contenta (when I'm in the garden of Palazzo Pfanner, I'm happy). -post by JMB

Contact info: Palazzo Pfanner, Via degli Asili 33. Lucca, Italy. Hours: 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. April - November.